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    Personal Finance Weekday Help and Victory Thread for the week of June 01, 2020

    June 01, 2020

    Personal Finance Weekday Help and Victory Thread for the week of June 01, 2020

    Weekday Help and Victory Thread for the week of June 01, 2020

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 04:08 AM PDT

    If you need help, please check the PF Wiki to see if your question might be answered there.

    This thread is for personal finance questions, discussions, and sharing your success stories:

    1. Please make a top-level comment if you want to ask a question! Also, please don't downvote "moronic" questions! If you have not received your answer within 24 hours, please feel free to start a discussion.

    2. Make a top-level comment if you want to share something positive regarding your personal finances!

    A big thank you to the many PFers who take time to answer other people's questions!

    submitted by /u/AutoModerator
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    40k in debt, Mom lives with me at 32 years old. Advice on how to move forward?

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 06:56 AM PDT

    Sooner rather than later I'd love to be on my own as I've just turned 32. Here are a few of my current issues:

    ​

    1. Debt mentioned above. Student Debt and CC Debt over the years. Over usage, my own fault. Student Debt has only been paid via interest, haven't made a dent. CC Debt I was able to collaborate into one big monthly fee via my bank ($320+/month). Working out great.
    2. Mother does not work, but she does collect $1000 in Social Security every month. She's very healthy for her age luckily. I could have moved out on my own years ago, but we don't live in the best area and I would not be able to have the thoughts of her living situation in the back of my head all of the time.
    3. She's adamant on moving out of state (Sedona, AZ specifically). We live in PA atm. I'd like to support both of us so she wouldn't have to worry about anything. Easier said than done obviously.
    4. After Taxes, I make only around $32k/year ($21/hr, $2400/month)

    Monthly Expenses

    • $900 - Rent/Water/Electricity
    • $320-500- Debt Payment(s) - CC
    • $150-200 - Food (Tough one to calculate here and there per week)
    • $100 - Internet
    • $120 - Phone (Both bills)
    • $70 - Sling, Spotify (Probably a bit too much, but it's mainly for my Mom)

    Can't think about anything more on the top of my head. I usually have $2-300 left over every month for emergencies.

    Just looking to see if anyone else has been in this type of situation before. Made a lot of mistakes since leaving college and I've been feeling stuck for quite some time and just looking for some light at the end of the tunnel. I appreciate any input and hope all of you are staying safe <3

    EDIT 7:04 EST: I was not even close to expecting such a great group of people giving their insight on all of this. I am forever thankful for each and every one of your comments, and know that I've read every single one of them. I'm going to do my best to move forward with all of your advice and I hope to be posting an update thread in one year's time.

    <3

    submitted by /u/SiaonaraLoL
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    If you have to ask about affording a purchase, it's probably a sign not to make that purchase.

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 04:06 PM PDT

    There's a lot of posts asking for justification in buying a new car, a home outside of the budget, etc..

    If you need to ask Reddit about the affordability, it's probably a good sign you're subconsciously trying to justify a decision you know you shouldn't make.

    submitted by /u/tyvsmith
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    I got an auto insurance quote that's nearly 50% cheaper than my existing auto insurance. Is there a catch?

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 06:36 AM PDT

    I currently have State Farm. After an accident in 2016 where the other driver was at fault (broke one of my windows/doors) and another accident in 2017 where I was at fault (totaled my car), I have had to deal with higher insurance rates. Since 2017 I have turned 25, which has lowered my insurance rate, and because the 2017 accident is now more than 3 years old, I'm no longer being charged an extra surcharge for my driving record by my car insurance.

    With State Farm, my premium is around $950 every six months (policy renews in July). I just re-bought State Farm about 1.5 years ago after having dropped them for a year to switch to Geico, which was charging me about $700 every six months. I switched away from Geico when I realized that my coverage was, in fact, significantly worse with Geico - my mistake, I did not choose the right coverage options when I switched. When I compared the correct coverage between Geico and State Farm, the price was actually higher with Geico, which is why I switched back to State Farm.

    I recently got a quote from Progressive that is only $500 every six month. This strikes me as WILD. I copied the coverage as exactly as I could from what I currently have with State Farm, and made sure that Progressive was aware of the accidents in 2016 and 2017 as well as the ticket I received from the 2017 accident. They still want to charge me nearly half of what State Farm is charging me. To me this seems almost too good to be true - I'm wondering if there is a catch here that I'm not noticing or not aware about. I agreed to sign up with the Snapshot thing that Progressive uses since I use Drive Safe and Save from State Farm, and I figured that since the Snapshot is temporary and I'm driving very little right now due to the pandemic, I would make sure to drive as carefully and safely as possible while I have it.

    Is there something else? Is Progressive the type to suddenly raise rates or something? If that's the case I'll just switch when the rates go up, but I just can't wrap my head around the cost difference here. I'm very eager to be able to take advantage of this if possible.

    edit: thank you all for the responses! It looks like I'm switching insurance companies, since there doesn't appear to be any real "catch" other than my current insurance thought I wouldn't shop around. As an aside, I emailed my State Farm agent a bit ago about the credit I was supposed to receive as a result of the stay-at-home order, since it didn't show up on my renewal bill. He responded within three hours telling me how much I would receive. When I responded saying that Progressive quoted me a price nearly half as much and I would likely be switching and wanted to know how I would receive that rebate if I wasn't paying for the policy, he never responded...one week later and I just sent a follow up but I doubt I'll receive a response. I sure hope they plan on mailing that to me.

    submitted by /u/2muchcaffeine4u
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    I hope this isn't a dumb question but... can someone explain to me why we "trust" retirement accounts?

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 11:31 AM PDT

    I recently got into an argument with my boyfriend. We're both late 20's, and both about to get real salaried jobs after graduating from our grad schools. He's from Turkey, where the economy is much less stable than in the U.S. Recently we got into an argument when we were talking about 401k's, Roth IRAs, etc. because he believes if we use those things we're basically putting all our money & faith in the success of the stock market. He'd much rather invest primarily in real estate because that's how his parents found success in their country, and it was more stable.

    I grew up in America where it's been ingrained in me that I need to set aside a chunk of my money each month to retirement accounts. I can see his point, though. I've been watching all these Youtube videos about retirement accounts and compounding growth and all that. Been also reading Boglehead and finally learning more about investment. It seems like everyone is always so sure that money's gonna grow grow grow. I mean, that's the basic fundamental idea of our investments in these tax-advantaged retirement accounts, right? That we believe in 30 years the money will grow because the stock market will grow.

    How do we know that the stock market trend will always be "up" in the long run, though? (ex, I've seen Japan's stock market trend where it's peak was in 1989 and it hasn't reached that point since.) Is it because of the economic trend of the past 100 years in America, and also because this is America (country of a lot of innovation, successful businesses, capitalism, etc)? What are the reasons behind why I should trust that America's stock market will be so different than Japan?

    Thanks in advance :) New to investing so I'd appreciate any insight!!

    submitted by /u/askimbebe
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    I've been looking for a job, and there's some things you should know

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 12:59 PM PDT

    This is likely for less experienced job searchers and those unexpectedly entering the job market for the first time in a while, but the things I've seen on legitimate career websites make me uneasy, and I think you should know about them. My goal isn't only to highlight what I've seen and what to avoid, but that others can help add their experiences as well.

    This isn't going to be a list of jobs to totally avoid, my intention is to simply shine some light on business models and why they want you (aaaand basically anyone). I will not be naming any specific companies except the fake one I found.

    -First, just because a job is posted on online through legitimate sources doesn't mean it's all that legitimate. I won't call them scams, I'll call them schemes, because they more resemble MLM opportunities than anything else. The biggest one to avoid are Commission-only sales. DO NOT work for someone who doesn't value your work time unless someone is signing a contract unless you are experienced in that kind of commission work with a large book of clients. The biggest examples are:

    1. Umbrella coverage companies who sell insurance, mortgage and other financial tools as a third-party company. Their sales pitch is "look, everything under one roof." And while, yes, there are plenty of companies who do this ethically and do it very well, don't let someone put you on the road and only pay you when you sell something. I've spoken to one who offered a guaranteed $500 a week. THAT'S a real job, because even if you fall on your face one week, you still eat and they still value your time. It's not great pay, but it's something. These lure people because their job postings advertise six figures plus, which may be possible, but it's deceiving. I compare this to those jobs selling knives back in the day; if your network doesn't expand beyond your family, that's as far as your career will go. Who is this job actually good for? If you actually do have a large book of transferable business or are confident in the breadth of your network, you can actually make money doing this (sometimes very good money). You don't need to look any further than Wells Fargo when you think about how toxic the goal-based selling of financial tools are (different, but same same). NOTE: There are companies with identical business models but in different industries. The rules don't change, value your time and make sure your employer does, too.
    2. Inside marketing & sales companies; i.e. those salespeople that pop up tents in big box stores and try to sell you energy services, cell phone plans, etc. They sign contracts to sell services to large, national companies, and what you're selling changes periodically. Now, this is separate from the above because I've yet to see one that doesn't offer some sort of base weekly pay (usually about $400, or $10 for 40 hours), which is a good start, but this job is pretty much all commission-based. This evolves into an MLM once you are "promoted" to a team lead, i.e. you start recruiting while your boss cashes most of the checks until you hit the marks that allow you to reach his level, open your own office, yada yada. I'll make this point, people who do this well and whose offices become legitimate operations do quite well and operate positive & successful cultures. Sometimes it's which specific "office" do you sign on with, there may be several in your area operating under the same name but totally separate (someone else's pyramid). They will promise fast promotions and good money (they want to promote you so you hire more people under their umbrella). This is not an "avoid at all costs" job, for many it may be a welcome change, but you should know what kind of business you're involved in, and expect more promises broken than fulfilled (they offer a lot of money after one or two quick promotions, very suspicious).

    These two types of businesses make up a MASSIVE PERCENTAGE of entry level positions on job boards, and because they usually have big fancy names (my favorite was "Regional Director of Sales, which was an entry-level commission-based insurance salesperson), they show up in searches for management and executive level positions.

    -Second, straight up scams. Thankfully not as common as I expected on big job boards, they still exist. Usually, the most creative thing they can think to do is closely mimic the name of a legitimate, large company. For instance, a company called MGN Chicago was posting for an advertising salesperson. Many of you may know a rather large media company, WGN Chicago. I googled the company and the only results were the job postings. I'll be honest, I don't know what their objective is other than to have you fill out an application with your personal information. Maybe others who have experience in different industries can elaborate on what they've seen. To be safe, I wouldn't apply online at an outside website you're not totally sure you can trust, and be wary of your personal information.

    ---If you're lost at how to begin the process, you've been laid off for the first time in years and unsure about what the "new way" to find a job is, here's just a few things:

    -Make sure a job or business is legitimate by googling them, or checking if they have reviews on Glassdoor, LinkedIn or Indeed. If they don't, be wary.

    -You need to use more than one job board. Even though my industries are shut down and no positions open I can't help but look for work out of sheer boredom and intrigue to a possible change of industry. I've found there's no consistency, and you need to be checking ZipRecruiter, LinkedIn, Indeed and any industry specific job boards that may exist. The fact is that unless you check everything, you're missing out on most opportunities.

    -Only apply to jobs that are posted within the last week, or even 24 hours. You can spend DAYS applying to jobs that were posted weeks ago that already have been filled and they didn't remove it. The first time you sign up, quickly peruse everything within 30 days and apply to a few that pop out, then forget it and check within the last day. These are the active hiring managers right now, not two weeks ago. This also makes the process seem less overwhelming.

    -Set up whatever you have to on each site for Instant Apply, 1-click apply or whatever tool they have to apply quickly. Seriously. Don't look at the option and say "maybe later." Just do it.

    -Some opportunities knock once. Start picking up your phone. THIS PART SUCKS. If you're actively job searching, you need to pick up unknown numbers. If you miss that call from the recruiter or manager, you may not get them back on the phone. The next name on the list might knock it out of the park. I actually had one HR guy's number show up as "Potential Spam" on my phone, left a message, totally legit. This is probably the worst part, and I've found a potential workaround, not sure if it'll work in the long term. I changed my outgoing voicemail to say for recruiters and hiring managers to text or email to set up a time to speak, but I will call them back as well. Side-effect is that my voicemail makes my job search sound super-serious, and makes it seem like I'm busy talking to other managers (I'm not, I was peeing).

    ​

    I wish everyone luck on any changes in their careers, and I hope others can add to this to make it more useful (I'll add in an edit and credit any authors). I'm happy to answer any questions, but I'm not a self-proclaimed expert on anything.

    submitted by /u/InTheEndThereWasPie
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    I am freaking out, why can’t I get approved to rent a house?

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 10:39 AM PDT

    Hi PF, idk if this is the right sub for this but here goes.

    My apartment lease is up in August. It's not safe for me to continue living here so I have been searching for house rentals.

    Every home I've applied to, the owners seem really enthusiastic when we meet but then after I apply I get ghosted. I'm freaking out that I won't get approved for a rental by the time my lease is up at this apartment.

    I have never broken a lease, always pay rent on time, never had anything sent to collections. My monthly income is about $4,000/month (sometimes a lil more sometimes a lil less because I am paid $16.74 an hour plus monthly sales comission bonus). Therefore, I have been looking at rentals in the $800-1,000 range. I'm only 22 but I've had this full time corporate job for the last 3 years. Some rentals I have applied to have even sent me copies of my credit and background check, all of which have come back "clear" or in "good standing." My credit score is 650 and one of the landlords even said "650 is fine, you have nothing to worry about." But he ghosted me, too. (If you're wondering why it's so low, it's because my age of credit is only 8 months)

    What else can I do? I feel like I'm doing everything I can to be an ideal tenant. I'm quiet, non-smoker, no dogs (I have a pet hedgehog that lives in a cage most of the time and all the landlords have told me that's fine and wouldn't even require a deposit), my credit shows a 100% on time payment history, clean background check. The only outstanding debt I have is a car loan of $135 a month. Do you guys have any advice for something else I should be doing?

    submitted by /u/taintblister
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    Switching Jobs- Relying on work for housing to save money

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 06:20 PM PDT

    I'm 23 and I've been an RN in Canada for about two years. Currently making $36 an hour. My T4 total was about 82k last year including overtime. Just finished paying off a 38K student loan (putting a load of my own money towards in and about 11k in debt reduction grants over the last two years).

    I contribute around 220 per pay to retirement savings which my employer matches as well as paying into health/dental/insurance benefits. My current take home biweekly after deductions/pension/tax is about 1600, 2200 when I work an overtime shift which occurs 1-2 times per month. Making my min take home monthly around 3200, max about 4400.

    I currently pay about $1300 a month for my one bedroom apartment in the city. My monthly expenses are approximately $2300 saving the difference between my take home and expenses since paying off my loans. I currently have 8k in my savings account (total, so including emergency fund). I have a very old car, currently functioning, not set on buying a new one if it breaks down.

    **** I'm going to be leaving my permanent job to do travel contract work for a significant wage increase, making approx $52 an hour with overtime available and housing provided while on assignment. I will not have benefits. Take home min 2800 biweekly without OT.

    I am planning on moving out of my apartment to save on living expenses and do back to back assignments to maintain housing. I will be selling all my furniture (nothing expensive or irreplaceable). I have several friends willing to rent me a room on weeks off in their homes as well as a place at my mothers (although in a different province than I'm currently living) I can stay at if I want to take a few weeks between contracts.

    Planning on doing this for approximately one year to build up savings for a downpayment or investments before returning to a permanent position.

    Looking for advice on whether this is a terrible idea or if anyone does or has done anything similar. The numbers seem to make sense to me but I'm definitely young and haven't made any huge choices like this.

    submitted by /u/existentialcrisisin
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    Moving Out (19 y/o, US)

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 03:05 PM PDT

    Hello all. To keep it short and sweet I am nineteen, the holder of a recently earned high school diploma and counting down to the seconds as to when I can leave this tumultuous shithole of a house my parents rearing at the moment. Could somebody give me a "starter guide" so to speak on moving out, on your own into an appt? I'd rather not ask my parents as you could imagine from my description, so any help to help me expedite the process would make my entire week. Thank you, and apologies for sounding so sheltered. And also, as a last thing I'm sorry if the language offends, I'm in a bad mood from my whole situation. I will most definitely edit on request.

    Quick contextual edit! I do have at least one close friend (if not a handful more of close people/friends to lean on) and I do have a truck to my name.

    submitted by /u/_lazlothegreat
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    To Retire or Not to Retire

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 07:21 PM PDT

    "I'm 64 turning 65 this year. I moved to the U.S as an immigrant in my 20's and have been working ever since.
    I've sold the remainder of my lease for my hardware store and have $500,000 - but have retained my locksmith business and continue to commute 40 minutes (each way) to provide locksmith services to have a source of income.
    Working has without a doubt took a toll on my body. I am still a smoker for over 20 years and have had heart surgery in the past. One of my sons is getting his MBA ($15-20k 1 year) and the other graduated high school and is about to start community college (to transfer after 1 year) and my wife lives with us. House is paid, no debt.
    I've always been pretty old school and don't have the knowledge to comfortably handle the money I now have. I would love to not work every day but the anxiety of having no income and a limited savings worries me about the future for me and my family. I'm a workaholic and prefer to do things by myself, but a relaxed lifestyle with a relatively light and flexible workload would be a dream for me."

    This is what my father would write if he spoke better English. I'm the son who just graduated undergrad and is considering taking a year to get his MBA if I can't find a job.

    I graduated with a degree in Finance & MIS but never had a situation like this. My father has his ideas but genuinely asked me to help him figure out what to do. His ideas are most likely stemming from word of mouth between him and his older friends/associates, which is great, but I want to do my due diligence. So far he's pretty into the idea of buying a house and flipping it, considering he's basically bob the builder on steroids - it's a realm he's comfortable diving into. Especially since he still has tons of hardware from his shop in storage.

    I'm posting this in hopes to gain some direction and perspective. Any resources/concepts/ideas/plans would be greatly appreciated. I'm doing my own research and figured this is a great place to gain some insight. Thank you :)

    submitted by /u/FriskiesGiblets
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    First job offer out of college. Negotiate or no? Inside Sales Engineer

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 06:42 PM PDT

    After graduating in December with a bachelor's in engineering and months of looking, I've finally got my first job offer as an Inside Sales Engineer in Houston.

    Starting salary: 62k

    Annual bonus: 10% of base ($6200)

    15 days PTO

    10 Paid holidays

    6% $ for $ 401k

    Medical, Dental, Vision

    I've heard mixed messages on whether or not to negotiate. The overall compensation and benefits seem relatively competitive, maybe a little low, for the job and my experience level. In the current market environment, should I ask for slightly more( ~5k ish for total base of 67k) or just take the offer? If so, how should I ask?

    submitted by /u/LSUoil
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    Should I pay off my student loans all together at once, or should I continue paying it off monthly?

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 06:16 PM PDT

    I have just enough money to pay off my student loan debt and I don't have any other debt to off. I've been wondering and thinking of paying off my debt all at once, and I would like to get some advice and opinions on what I should do. This is my first post here and in awhile and I'm a bit nervous doing so. I apologise if this post is too vague or poorly written.

    submitted by /u/MonsTar328
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    Tmobile sent a bill to collections after they explicitly told me I did not need to pay them and that my account was settled in full. Do I have any recourse?

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 01:27 PM PDT

    My goals with this:

    1. repair my credit as fast and best as possible
    2. resolve this bill/dispute

    I will lay out the timeline as best that I can,

    July 2019: I run a family plan with tmobile including 3 others, we decide to all join my Brother's account to make one big family account

    August 2019: We are successfully added to brother's account, except for the iphone payment plan that was my Aunt's. I work with tmobile to try and transfer this payment plan, they fail repeatedly but always assure me they are working on it and are "elevating it"

    October 2019: I get letter in the mail saying the $480 left on the plan will be transferred to collections if not paid. I call tomobile and give up on trying to transfer the payment plan and offer to pay the bill in full. I am transferred to a supervisor who repeatedly tells me that I don't need to worry about it and that entire balance will be taken care of. I attempt to pay again and she refuses once again. I explicitly ask her to confirm that I not only do not need to pay anything on this bill, but that it won't be sent to collections as the letter states it will. She confirms this and I am surprised yet happy I somehow don't have to pay the other $480.

    Dec 2019-April 2020: the bill is sent to collections and it destroys my credit. I call tmobile repeatedly over the months and they always tell me they will "elevate" my dispute and that calls are recorded, and that my call will be reviewed and someone will get back to me. Any time I attempt to check in it seems like the process has restarted. Eventually, they tell me that reviewing it will be impossible as calls are only stored for 90 days

    May 2020: I try to dispute the bill with credit bureaus and they rule in favor of the creditor as I have no evidence.

    Is there anything I can do about this? Can I get a lawyer and request the transcripts of my call with tmobile possibly? Or do they maybe have some deep archive where recordings could actually be retrieved?

    Thanks for any assistance you guys can provide.

    submitted by /u/TheHappyHawaiian
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    When the IRS accepts your return electronically, what sort of validation do they do?

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 07:11 PM PDT

    Besides checking to see if someone else has already filed under your name. They presumably have all of your financial information in your database so do they have software that can automatically cross check against what you report? I'm guessing no if they're auditing you 2-3 years after the fact.

    submitted by /u/Ornste
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    Received remainder of college brokerage account ($15k cash), feeling very overwhelmed

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 01:06 PM PDT

    Hi everyone, I recently graduated from university and my parents gave me the remainder of my college fund brokerage account as a gift. Looking through it I am feeling very overwhelmed and could really use some advice. Currently I have no debt, 20k in savings, and will be starting work as a software engineer at a Microsoft in a few months so I am in a good financial situation overall. So, I think this is a really good opportunity to make some long term investments that I can just forget about.

    The account has $15k in cash and $27k in stocks (mostly Gold). The stocks have performed very poorly, with only a 1.64% gain over the last 20 years.

    Any advice would be appreciated! I am not sure what to do. Do I sell all of the stock and just invest in Vangaurd index funds? Should I keep the stock and only invest the cash? I already have emergency savings and no debt so it seems like I should invest this money. When I start at Microsoft I will also have access to a great 401k plan.

    Thanks!

    submitted by /u/Sukoshi_
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    Just Opened a Fidelity Roth IRA and I'm lost about where to go from here

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 03:13 PM PDT

    Hello,

    I am a 28 year old resident physician. I have 3 more years of residency before I predict my income will be higher than what is allowed to contribute to a Roth IRA. I'm currently debt free after a lot of moonlighting and my employer doesn't match anything for 403b accounts. I have a few questions.

    I just opened a Roth IRA and have transferred $6000 for 2020. Can I/should I transfer another $6000 for 2019? I heard that one of the deadlines was extended. That would still leave me with $20-25k of emergency funds in savings and checking accounts.

    Also what do I invest in? I have searched around reddit and found these index funds are the most cited. FXAIX, FZROX, FSKAX, FNILX. Can anyone tell me pros/cons of them? Should I just pick on and put all the money in it or is there a point in having money in both. Also should I stick with fidelity or should I put my other potential $6000 in Vanguard?

    ​

    Thanks!

    submitted by /u/whatathrowaway829
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    Dealer wants cash offer before allowing test drive

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 11:46 AM PDT

    dealer told me no test drives are allowed without finance approval or cash offer. Is this normal? I've never heard of this before. How can I offer any money if I don't even know if the car drives and runs ok?

    submitted by /u/ryukingu
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    Moving to California

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 07:15 AM PDT

    Hi all, Recently I was asked by a College friend if I would like to take her roommate's lease when it ends, and move in with her in north Sacramento ca. Monthly rent is 770 a month including utilities. I currently have around $15,000 saved. I don't have a job lined up, and will most likely have to work odd jobs or try a temp agency. Does anyone know how long i can live there before I need to register as a Resident of the state and change my plates, or is it immediately? I'm also wondering how much it will cost me to get my car checked and then registered along with any "hidden fees" that could be easy to miss until you're there. I drive a 2009 Toyota Corolla. I know generally taxes are higher. I'm currently in South Carolina doing an office job that steals from me, by declaring me 1099 when I am not self employed and instead work in an office every day, so it will not be missed. I am in a month to month lease so that is not an issue. Any advice is appreciated, thanks

    submitted by /u/Punchy_Nom
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    Savings account suggestions

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 04:06 PM PDT

    Hello, I have over 10000 dollars in my checking account. I would like to open up a savings account.

    Any ideas for who to open it with? Also how much money should I deposit into that savings account monthly?

    (I start working in June. Just graduated)

    Thanks in advance!

    submitted by /u/ya_moms_dad
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    Lost my job today

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 07:51 PM PDT

    I'm 22 years old, I started a new job on the same work site, moving from security to general labor (large pay increase and unionization after 45 days) for the first 45 days they can fire you without warning on day 43 they let me go, no reason given. Its literally the only place to make a living where I live minimum of an hour drive each way to find another job that pays similar. I dont have any savings but I did manage to get my self almost completely out of debt (I owe 5k) i have a $500 visa and one more pay coming to me on Thursday of ~800. I dont know where to go from here. This is literally the worst case scenario for me the only other places to work where I live are minimum wage three grocerie stores a coffee shop or a gas station.

    For anyone wondering while I wasn't given a reason for my termination its safe to assume that the reason was during the 45 days almost everyone cleans for a week or two, then they're trained on equipment (lumber mill) when they get new hires. They're hiring a ton of staff right now to fill their expansion. They went through a drought so to speak where no one applied for almost my entire trial period so I kept cleaning. Last week they managed to get 3 students in for the summer to clean, since i had 2 days left and I wasn't trained on anything they didn't want to give me the rather substantial pay raise ($6/hour bringing it up to $21 plus benefits etc) i have no clue where to go or what to do.

    Edit: I have already applied for EI

    submitted by /u/CCollie
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    Should I still file unemployment after working full time for one week and back to part time this week?

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 03:59 PM PDT

    Going to try and sum this up as easily as possible.

    I was laid off but brought back on part time. I qualified for unemployment while laid off and while on part time as well. So I've been part time for a few weeks. My boss had a heavy workload last week. But only for last week. So last week I worked full time and now I'm back on part time again so this week I will qualify for unemployment again.

    So my question is do I still file a claim for the previous week knowing I won't be approved?

    Edit to add I know I won't be approved for last week. I'm just not sure if not filing at all will mess up my filing for next week.

    submitted by /u/baddlifeechoicess
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    How do I handle this

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 05:30 PM PDT

    3 weeks ago, my debit card was lost. I reported it lost/stolen and got my new one in a week. On 05/29/2020 two charges appeared that are reoccurring charges. Only thing is the company ONLY had my old card number. I never gave them my new card info. Called my bank today and was told since the company ran the old card so many times the bank GAVE the company my new card info. I was given no notification this was going to be done nor was I given an opportunity to approve such a thing. If I wanted that company to have my info I would've given it to them. How in the hell could a bank do something like this and it not be illegal? What is the best way to handle this smoothly? I don't want to go all Jim Cornette on them but I'm pretty damn pissed about this. Any help is greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.

    submitted by /u/mjtilley
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    Landlord invoiced me $50/mo for 5 months from before my rent was raised from $650 to $700 do I have to pay?

    Posted: 01 Jun 2020 07:28 PM PDT

    My current landlord purchased the building I live in in September of 2019, And raised my rent in March of 2020. Today I came home to an invoice on my door saying I owe $250 ($50/mo for 5 months) in back rent for October through February. I never signed a lease with these new landlords, and the one from my previous landlords has been expired for well over a year. I'm about 99% sure I don't have to pay this money, but I wanted to get a second opinion on this before I call my landlord tomorrow.

    submitted by /u/Touvan1
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