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    Thursday, July 8, 2021

    Personal Finance An inaccurate $2100 dollar withdrawal compared to a missing sock

    Personal Finance An inaccurate $2100 dollar withdrawal compared to a missing sock


    An inaccurate $2100 dollar withdrawal compared to a missing sock

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 03:54 AM PDT

    I'll make this as quick as I can, each month I send $700 to someone as my half of our living expenses. July 1, I go to my Citizens bank acct and using Zelle as always I send the payment. I got an alert that my payment failed, NBD I'm probably in a bad area. I try 3 more times, 2 of which failed and 1 finally sent. I get emails of the 3 failed $700 payments. Ok cool. Nope, wake up the next day to $2100 being out of my account. I call the bank (because it wasn't deposited in the other persons account)and was told "The money hasn't reached the other persons account, it's in a dark place, like where the missing sock in the dryer goes! It'll be back in your account in 3 business days, even though the payments failed this is just what Zelle does". Ok whatever. So I stew on what she said to me and called back the next day because I felt I needed to. I was told "my colleague was correct you should have the money back in your account by July 7th If not give us a call. Well….yep nothing put back in my account. I then call them on the 7th only for them to file a claim. I leave for vacation in 8 days…. A claim can take up to 10….wish me luck and oh yea ……Thanks Citizens/Zelle

    submitted by /u/CMarie0910
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    Why does the bank want me to refinance my mortgage so badly?

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 09:23 AM PDT

    I have a 30 year fixed mortgage at 4% that is about 4 years old. I know rates are lower now, so we have considered refinancing. However, the eagerness of companies that want us to refinance (particularly our own mortgage company) makes me suspicious. We get refi offers in the mail pretty much daily. Lots of them are just bulk rate, fake "official" looking nonsense, but not all of it. Our own company sends us a few things a week. They email, they call and leave messages. Nobody tries this hard to lose money. If our rate is bad, but we pay on time, wouldn't they want us to just keep paying it? I'm assuming they slightly lower our monthly payment but stick us in a new 30 year, but I don't really know.

    Here are some details that might make a difference. This is on the east coast. Similar houses in our area are selling for about 20% to 25% more than we paid. I know COVID has made prices crazy, but according to Zillow/Redfin/etc the house has been appreciating since we bought it. The house was built in the 60's.

    EDIT: Thanks everyone! The consensus is that we should know our rate is high and look to refinance, the bank is assuming we're logical and will do that, so they're trying to get in front of it to keep making some money rather than no money. I'll look more seriously into refinancing.

    submitted by /u/adamnalina
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    Now is the perfect time to up your salary.

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 07:31 PM PDT

    Don't be scared to apply for jobs right now. Even jobs you don't think you will qualify for. Employers are hurting for good employees right now, and this is one of the few "employee markets" we've had in the last few years. You could easily see a 20%+ raise by accepting a job with a new company, or getting an offer and increasing with your current company.

    I'll use myself as an example. I live in a super low cost of living part of the country. My current job pays me $53,000 a year + $4,000 a year toward my HSA. I saw a posting for a job I thought I was no where near qualifying for. Applied on a whim to the other company and said I wanted to be in the 80-90k range. Keep in mind, I am in management and this was for a non management position.

    They called me in for an interview, offered me the next day and said "we're offering you a bit under your desired pay range, but we think we are being competitive"… offered me 74k salary + a 7% yearly bonus based on salary + 1k toward my HSA and 11% match on my 401k. I finished the background process today and my first day is August 2. Including retirement benefits, I'm going from 57k a year total compensation to 89k a year total compensation. Just by filling out one random job application.

    And I know for a fact I'm not the only person this has happened to in the last 2-3 months. If you feel stagnant or that you are under paid, now is the time to be putting in applications!

    submitted by /u/Brundonius
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    At odds with my work

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 06:11 AM PDT

    I work as a baker so a small mom and pop restaurant. For a while they have been struggling financially and I've been seeing signs of it everywhere; no food trucks for twos weeks, some other employees not getting paid on pay day and only with about eight employees in total. Yesterday they pulled me outside to say they also couldn't pay me. I asked why they said they are in a financial bind that they hope will be fixed by the end of the night. I asked then if I could be paid tomorrow and they said they wished. I don't know what to do my boyfriend is furious. He thinks I should call the labor board for wage theft. I feel bad because I know they are struggling and everyone stays because we love our jobs. So I guess I'm asking what is the right thing to do? I can't work for free and I literally watched this same thing happen to my managers who left after not being paid for months.

    submitted by /u/kristy9991
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    A job I recently resigned from never gave me my final paycheck ($800ish gross, direct deposit) and is ignoring my request for an explanation. What are my options?

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 11:07 AM PDT

    Obviously I'd lose money if I hired a lawyer. Is it worth filing a wage theft complaint with the state Dept of Labor or anything, or do I need to just bite the bullet and move on?

    Possibly critical details - it's an at will state, and the final paycheck is actually unused PTO. All hours actually worked have already been paid for but there's ~ 4 days of unused PTO that should have been on this one final check.

    submitted by /u/sd8008
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    Wells Fargo to discontinue personal lines of credit and will shut down existing ones in weeks

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 01:32 PM PDT

    Tips for an adult trying to go back to school?

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 04:45 PM PDT

    So I'm coming here to reddit as usual lol, because I often find random people have amazing different ideas and suggestions when I feel like I have hit a wall. Im currently in my 30s, taking my pre-reqs for nursing. After my pre-reqs, I am going to try and apply to this accelerated BSN program ( i already have a bachelors in something irrelevant from 2013) I am just struggling because Im wondering how to make this work financially when I'm a single adult who lives alone. I work full time, shitty job, shitty pay and shitty hours and still can hardly make ends meet. ( this is why I decided to go back to school, to try and better my life, im so tired of being so broke and feeling so unsuccessful =( ) but anyway, I think once I get into ( i hope i get in ) a nursing program, I wont be able to work. But without working, how do you pay rent? Bills? I dont really have family I can move in with so thats not an option. I am very very alone right now. Just kind of reaching out here to see if anyone else has ever been in this situation? Do people take out personal loans on top of the school loans to cover rent? Do scholarships exist? The only thing holding me back is money, I want this so badly but when I think about how I am going to afford to live without working, it gets me really sad and discouraged and sometimes I wonder if its possible at all?

    submitted by /u/extremelyanxious
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    Thoughts on Ally savings?

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 10:29 AM PDT

    Hi y'all, I'm 23 and just started a real job. I'm also fairly new to reddit altogether and am not super sure about any intricacies or "cultural" norms so lmk if I do something wrong.

    I'm looking to open a high yield savings account and am eyeballing Ally because of their bucket function. If you're unfamiliar, it's basically the equivalent of tucking money away in envelopes with "new car," "vacation," etc on the front. Except it's FDIC insured and accrues interest. Speaking of, the online savings account and money market account both have an APY of 0.5% and from I've been able to read, the difference between OS & MM is that MM comes with checks and a debit card for your allowable 6 transfers/withdrawals per month.

    Does anybody have experience with or thoughts about Ally? I've seen some HYSA offers from much smaller banks for slightly higher APYs - like 0.6 at best - but I'm really into the bucket function, as it's actually something I wanted back like a decade ago. Is the higher APY going to be much of a difference? (I'm making 30k and helping my parents pay off debt so once I have an emergency fund, I'm focusing on a roth IRA; I won't have a huge savings) I'm leaning toward the ally MM atm so I can have faster access to it if something bad goes down but I've read that usually a HYSA has a better return - does it seem likely that ally would change the rates and savings accts would have a better %? I welcome any and all thoughts!

    submitted by /u/Lucky-Reporter-6460
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    Are physician loans generally better than conventional loans?

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 04:23 PM PDT

    Our situation: My partner is a fresh dentist hoping to get into ortho school (3 yrs will have no income during the time) starting 1 year from now. She is currently a resident hospital dentist making around 60k. I am employed making 100k w/ a 15% contingent bonus.

    We are looking to purchase a house at the location where she attends ortho school (1 year from now). We have 20k saved for a down payment.

    We will have the option to utilize a physician loan which requires 0% down and has no pmi but generally has a higher interest rate.

    I'm trying to determine if the physician loan would be better since we won't have 20% down for 9/10 places where we would end up. At what interest rate difference is no pmi generally worth it?

    From your experience what have you seen as the average physician loan interest rate given rates will likely go up between now and a year out?

    submitted by /u/xomox2012
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    Advice on cancelling recurring gym payments after attempts to close account correctly

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 03:55 AM PDT

    We all know about how bad gym memberships are to cancel. I need some advice for what I should prepare as my next steps.

    For context, I took all the right steps to notify the gym and don't have an account balance that I owe since I was paying month to month. I originally signed a 12 month promotional contract but there was a clause that said we could cancel if you moved and there was not a gym of the same brand less than 50 miles away. Well we moved and I invoked my ability to cancel since we are 2 hours and more than 100 miles from the closest gym.

    On May 28, 2021 I sent a cancellation notice in writing via certified mail to both the gym's general manager, and payment processing company that handles all billing. The contract only required a notice to the billing company but I wanted to cover my bases and notify the GM. The contract said I needed to give a 30 day notice and I asked for my membership to be valid through June 2021. On June 1 I get the following sent as an email to me from the billing company:

    Thank you for contacting our Customer Care Department. This e-mail confirms that your request was received. Our average response time is three to five business days. Response times may vary slightly due to weekends, holidays or higher volume. The effective date of your email for any changes to your account is today and will not change due to a delay in processing your request. You will receive a confirmation e-mail from one of our Customer Care representatives when your request has been processed.

    I immediately sent over a copy of my lease (which was never originally stated to be required) before the close of business and since the email said the day of my request would remain the same, I thought this was sufficient.

    Fast forward to this week of July. I never saw any other notice from them via either mail or email but a charge for July's membership appeared on my credit card. I waited until it showed as settled in the Chase app and then clicked through their form to report it. I thought I would have an opportunity to upload my letter and proof of certified mail and copies of the email to make my case but I didn't have that option and Chase said they'd look into it.

    Did I mess up by reporting it through Chase? Does anyone have experience trying to cancel memberships correctly? What else should I expect? I appreciate the simplicity of Chase's form and hope that as a CSR customer they'd take my side but I haven't had to go through this before. Any feedback someone can give would be great!

    Edit Thanks everyone for the comments. I called Chase and they said since I already submitted through the app, my path was chosen and I shouldn't reach out to the gym. I sent over the documentation I had and it should be pretty cut and dry in terms of rectifying the chargeback.

    submitted by /u/jaxosaurus_rex
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    How do I afford college?

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 03:20 PM PDT

    For a little bit of background:

    I have an inflammatory bowel disease called Ulcerative Colitis. I was diagnosed last September, this has costed me a bit of money in my young adulthood (I'm 20) and now I have 7,700 dollars in hospital debt. Despite this, I still want to make something out of myself and would like to pursue a computer science degree through a community college, then transfer to a local university.

    I'm going this route because I know it's the cheapest route to a bachelor's, but I still don't know how I'm going to fund this education. I don't know anything about loans, scholarships, grants, etc. What information I do have is:

    • I have a life-long disability, though I don't know if that'll help besides specific scholarships.
    • My parents make a lot of money, but are really poor due to spending habits and my dad (the sole earner) works on contracts, meaning he can go months without any work.
    • I won't be receiving any money from my parents for college, besides a few hundred dollars.
    • I applied for FAFSA, but didn't get anything.
    • I'm 20 and have no skills that would get me anything besides a retail/ service job

    I want to start this coming fall semester, I have enough saved up to pay for this semester and that is all. Any advice is greatly appreciated, thank you for reading!

    Also, any advice on dealing with the medical debt would be cool too.

    Edit 1: community college

    submitted by /u/Comfortable-Soup8150
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    Dispute credit reversed, I'm blamed for fraudster's charges

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 04:58 PM PDT

    So usual fraud, close to $50 on eBay, April 29th. This is on a Chase Sapphire. I have no idea how my card info was stolen and am pretty careful, whatever. I also had 55 cents and about $40 of 2 other charges, and almost 10 declines after I froze the card. Chase never reversed the 55 cents (oh well) and recently they said I am responsible for the approx $50. They say someone with a eBay account using a hotmail email bought an antique flower pot and delivered it to my address (or maybe just my city, not clear on this). "I received benefit from this transaction". I certainly have not bought this and nobody with access to my card bought this. I have already submitted for higher review. Does anyone here know where else I can submit a complaint if the higher review is rejected to or another more relevant subreddit for advice?

    submitted by /u/Insevin
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    Is it still smart for 50 y/o parents to open retirement account?

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 03:11 PM PDT

    My parents are both immigrants to this country so they did not know much about investing or retirement accounts. My dad owns a landscaping business and has never had a retirement account. I am a 24 y/o and have a Roth IRA and 403b. I know it's a bit late for them, but would it still be worth it to get them set up with an account? They likely won't retire in the near future just because my dad envisions having a much more passive role in the company once he gets too old to work hard labor. But just want to know what others think. Is Roth IRA the way to go as opposed to traditional IRA or a regular brokerage account?

    Any advice or thoughts are appreciated!

    submitted by /u/Round_Needleworker38
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    Should I leave this job?? (Scam?)

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 05:32 PM PDT

    I'm a college student looking for a summer job. I got hired by this solar company called NerdPower as an "Appointment Setter" today. I found it on Indeed, and the job description was very vague. It claims the job is "Fun AF". The only description of job itself was - "You will NOT be making any sales ONLY setting appointments with a team and traveling in a company provided transportation!" They made it seem like a pretty cool place to work, with pictures of employees laughing and playing sports together. I'm passionate about sustainable energy, so I thought it looked like a chill summer job with good benefits.

    Within a minute of submitting my resume, I get a text to schedule my interview. I went in for the interview and it was bizarre. They take in 20 people also interviewing for the job for this presentation, and I'm the only one dressed business casual. Red flags started going off when a saleswoman came out to give us this very vague presentation on the company and how great it is working there. They essentially install solar panels on people's houses. She went on about how much they invest in their employees, about how we can choose our own paycheck, how this isn't a sales position, ect.

    Then after the presentation was over, they had us all take a personality quiz, which is a weird thing to do. But I thought "Hey, some companies do this right? Maybe its a competitive job and they want to make sure they hire the right people."

    After I finish this quiz, an employee takes me off to interview 1 on 1. I ask him about the job because I still don't know what it is. He tells me that an "Appointment Setter" goes in a company van to neighborhoods, and goes door to door trying to convince people to get solar panels. Keep in mind, I live in Arizona, which is normally around 115°F during the summer. He explains that I can earn a commission for each customer I sign up, and that they only pay minimum wage ($12.15). Its literally a door to door scripted sales job that they advertised as not a sales job.

    After typing all of this out, I realize that I probably shouldn't take the job. I can make $25 an hour delivering Doordash, and I like the freedom of choosing my own hours. What do you think, Reddit?

    submitted by /u/griffskry
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    My aunt opened accounts in my grandma’s name

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 05:46 PM PDT

    My aunt was a hoarder before she passed away. She spent thousands on useless junk. She also took care of my grandmas finances because my grandma is too old to figure out the computer and has some dementia. She opened up a couple accounts under her name and spent thousands. After my aunt passed away, all of this was brought to her attention from my dad. So she's in overwhelming debt now and she's trying to pay thousands of dollars of this debt that was built unknown to her. Any suggestions?

    submitted by /u/HeavenIsHere23
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    Fraud by Former Spouse

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 05:45 PM PDT

    My ex husband was supposed to put his electric bill in his name when our divorce was final in mid 2019.

    Recently I investigated why my credit score suddenly dropped, and it turns out he left the electric in my name for several more months, almost a year. When he was moving, he stopped paying the bill in advance and let it be charged off.

    I tried once to dispute this and it was rejected by both TransUnion and Experian.

    I'm not even going into the fact that I didn't know this was going on because he also fraudulently forwarded and kept all my mail for several months (he kept re-forwarding it after I would get it corrected), while USPS sat on their hands and wouldn't do anything about it.

    But I digress.

    How can I get this charge off removed from my record? I'm outraged that twenty years of perfect credit is being wrecked by this one thing.

    submitted by /u/wrytit
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    Bank of America ATM ate my rent payment

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 03:04 PM PDT

    So the machine ate $2000 which I was stupid enough to put it in all at once. I called and they said they would reimburse me in 1-3 days and that passed and now they're saying 10. I'm going to be late on rent because of this and I'm worried if I'll get paid back at all now. Has anyone experienced this?

    submitted by /u/HighlightIcy3223
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    Question regarding bank asking me to refinance my mortgage

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 03:05 PM PDT

    Recently I've had my mortgage lender email me regarding refinancing to a lower rate, and lower monthly cost. I am not the only person I know of who this has happened to. I've heard from numerous people that their bank/lender called or emailed them proposing the similar options. Here is a description that my lender gave when I asked for more information on how it works:

    If you refinance the current loan gets paid off and you will have whatever the payoff plus if you rolled in closing cost as your new total loan amount. That would be a new 30 year loan calculated at the new rate that you would have locked in at.

    Now this seems great and all. I pay less over the long term and less monthly, right? However my paranoid brain thinks there's a catch to this. Surely the bank isn't in it to lose money and save me money, right? Does anyone have any information on how this actually works? Why the sudden urge to get their customers to refi? Just for the closing cost? To put into perspective, I've been at my house for 8 years and bought it for 195k.

    Appreciate it.

    Edit: Thanks for the links.

    submitted by /u/me_z
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    How hard is it to switch lenders after rate-lock?

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 07:04 PM PDT

    I rate-locked at 2.875% last week without a float-down option, but I see the rates have dropped already (as other lenders have called me about it). Now, is it usually customary for you to stick with your lender despite some rate dropping after locking? or can I freely switch lenders if I'm able to get a better rate?

    Given that my lender has no float-down option, do they usually allow you to "re-lock" at least once if these things happen? I appreciate everything my lender did to walk me through the process, but at the same time this is the biggest purchase of my life so if I can save couple thousand dollars, I definitely want to do that. Thanks.

    submitted by /u/whiteorgo
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    Paying off car loan right away versus building credit (US)

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 02:25 PM PDT

    My APR is is 3.94% and I am a new college graduate. I have the ability to pay off my my entire loan soon. One person at the dealership said I should pay it off right away so that I get that done on my credit, but someone else at the dealership said I should pay slowly pay it off each month until the end to build my credit. Who is right? It's a 72 month loan by the way.

    submitted by /u/Impressive_Task_2610
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    Roth IRA for first-time home purchase

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 06:55 PM PDT

    If you are wanting to withdraw $10,000(made up of contributions and earnings) from a Roth IRA you have had for 5 years or more, can you withdraw this money tax and penalty-free before age 59.5 for a first-time home purchase? I believe based on this Charles Schwab article that that's what it is saying just want to make sure. I'd like to start saving for a down payment for a home and would like to do this as long as what I'm saying is correct.

    submitted by /u/Safe-Cryptographer25
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    Interest on car loan is confusing.

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 05:36 PM PDT

    Bought a 2019 CPO Toyota RAV4 in September of last year. Trying to save some money on interest, my wife and I are paying more than required to pay it off early. When we look at the interest taken out on each payment, it has us scratching our head. Here's the numbers: The first number is amount paid, second is balance, third is interest paid for that payment.

    Total: $29,122.13 09/27/2020

    10/09/20: $600 ($28,577.31) *$55.18

    11/02/20: $800 ($27,870.13) *$92.82

    11/16/20: $600 ($27,322.94) *$52.81

    12/01/20: $519.23 ($26,859.18) *$55.47

    12/28/20: $1,500 ($25,457.33) *98.15

    01/19/21: $2,500 ($23,033.13) *75.80

    02/16/21: $2,000 ($21,120.41) *87.28

    03/30/21: $800 ($20,440.47) *120.06

    05/12/21: $800 ($19,759.43) *118.96

    06/28/21: $355 ($19,530.12) *125.69

    Lowest month is $52, highest is $125. What gives?

    submitted by /u/Omaha419
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    I am 30, just started saving for retirement and don't know how to invest

    Posted: 08 Jul 2021 03:43 PM PDT

    I will try (and likely fail) to keep this short. If I'm missing important info, please let me know. I am 30, and 2 years into my new career post grad school. I have only really begun to focus on saving for retirement. I have about ~$19k saved currently, none of it invested. All said, after expenses and other savings, I have at least $550 a month that I can put toward retirement.

    I have been on this sub since me early 20s and have learned A LOT about budgeting and setting goals. The one thing that I haven't learned despite my sincere efforts, is investing. I personally blame my ADHD and anxiety. So, my main questions are 1) Given my options, what type of retirement account should I focus on moving forward? and 2) How should I invest? I know I'll never be very active in the process. I know a common recommendation is index funds. But I don't really understand what an index fund is (are?) beyond like, small shares of a lot of diverse companies (maybe). Should I go with a robo-advisor? A target date fund? Give up on doing this myself and get an actual advisor? Do I even have the money for that?

    I recognize that given my age and budget, I need to be at least moderately aggressive in my investments, which means more stocks than things like bonds. It's when it comes down to making actual choices between options that I get super effing lost and overwhelmed.

    Breakdown of retirement savings:

    • Pension contributions: $7271

      Currently 7.7% of my pre-tax income is deducted to a state sponsored pension. Starting in 9/21 this will increase to 8%. Should I leave this sector (likely) I can rollover my contributions into a traditional IRA.

    • Health Savings Account: $2642

      I am contributing the max allowed each pay period.

    • Roth IRA: $9151 with Charles Schwab

      I rolled over some old tax advantaged accounts into a Roth IRA last year. Looking back, I'm not certain a Roth IRA was better for me than a Traditional IRA as I am unlikely to break into a higher tax bracket in my current field. I am $4151 away from maxing out my contribution for 2021 (~$461 a month until April 2022). I can max out the account for next year but I'm not certain it's the best idea because…

    In addition to the pension contributions, I have the option of contributing to a 403(b) or 457(b) plan. I haven't engaged with either plan because they do not offer an employer match and because I don't like this job and do not plan to continue in this sector of my field beyond the next 1-2 years. The 403(b) doesn't allow "transfers out of plan" (their words) and the 457(b) has fees which would total 0.77% of my contribution plus $23.80 a year. I have no concept of whether this is standard, low or high. I cannot find any information online about how contributions are invested.

    Do I go with one of the employee sponsored retirement plans or continue funding the Roth account and open a brokerage account as well? What investment strategy do you recommend? I'm kind of at peak anxiety and frustration with my inability to figure things out and make a decision, so please know that all advice is very much appreciated.

    submitted by /u/creatingapathy
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