- Found out my coworker who I trained makes $20k more. I went in to ask for a rate adjustment, and was told to submit a business case. I am asking for a lot of raise, is this a good case?
- My in-laws are recommending we hire a financial planner to create an investment strategy that's successful. I'd like to know what folks here think about this.
- How to rollover a 401(K)
- Is it wise to suggest to my boss that I am looking for a substantial raise/title change before my upcoming annual review?
- Am 40 - Sell a house to buy a condo and live mortgage free?
- Parent diagnosed with cancer, but they've no health insurance. What is my course of action?
- Don't make fun of me
- Should I buy an investment property if I'm still renting?
- Mother wanted to take out equity loan for new hvac and home improvements. Bank wants to add loan amount to amount owed and start a new 30 yr mortgage.
- If I use my credit card on the statement closing date will that be counted as non paid this cycle and rollover to the next month with interest counted as a late payment ?
- Credit Card Is Confusing Me
- Feel hopeless, Insurance is sucking me dry.
- Should I contribute to "ABLE to Work" Account or a matched 401K?
- Help with Geico claim
- Bank of America Debt Forgiveness
- Recruiter quoted a different salary than the hiring manager. Should I counter?
- Federal Tax too low?
- Thinking about switching banks, any recs?
- Unemployment insurance fraud using my address with a different name
- I am looking to try to tackle my student loan debt if possible
- ¿¿ "You have too much debt to be eligible for debt consolidation" ??
- Paying for CPO while still under factory warranty
- Precious Metals Inheritance
- Amazon chase visa. Need a replacement card
| Posted: 28 Apr 2021 04:32 AM PDT My Full Name Program Manager Rate Adjustment COMPANY Analytics has grown tremendously since September 2020, with clients growing from 4 sites to over 50 sites. I'm writing this business case to request a review of my compensation. Role DescriptionPlease find the original job description I was given when I first accepted this position in September. Highlighted in green, please see my additional contributions to the company to help it grow by 1250% (4 clients to 50+ clients). COMPANY Analytics – Project Coordinator Project/Program Manager 2 Day in the life:
Musts
Market ValueBecause my work centers around maintaining large scale 6-figure contracts with clients run smoothly day-to-day, my position is more accurately considered as program manager. In addition to program management, I do senior project manager level work (kickoff to closing of a setting up a client account, turning trouble projects around, training other PMs/teammates, leading presentations that other PMs don't do, etc.). Based on my market research for Program Manager, I've found the average rate for someone with my experience and in the role that I'm in to be $45/hour. Program ManagerSalary.com ($141,833 annually) 📷 Indeed.com ($96,253 annually) 📷 Glassdoor.com ($96,723 annually) 📷 Project Manager 2Salary.com ($100,720) 📷 Indeed.com ($108,694 annually) 📷 Glassdoor.com ($119,565 annually) 📷 RequestWith my market research, it seems that I might have been underpaid as the work I do grew tenfold as the company grew. I accepted the initial rate during uncertain times, when they were just starting up. Now it's clear that the company is doing very well, to the point of hiring two other PMs. I believe that the success of the company is made possible with my contributions and hope that you find favor my request for this adjustment. Factoring in my additional experience and work performance, I'd like my rate adjusted from $30 an hour to $45 an hour. I understand it's a big rate adjustment request, but I have made extraordinary contributions to the company, and I'm not even compensated at the average market rate. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Apr 2021 04:11 PM PDT My in-laws are in their 70s and parlayed two US federal government jobs into high quality retirements. Snowbirds with homes in 2 states, cruises (pre-pandemic) and annual trips , no debt. Deeply respect them. Their advice is that my wife and I start out doing what they did: use a financial planner to help them make the most of their investments so their savings don't stagnate in savings accounts. Now, I know that people at r/homeimprovement balk at hiring contractors for what folks their consider simple fixes and people at r/fitness fly into a rage when I even mention a personal trainer. But a financial planner really does sound like it makes sense for us. Has anyone here had experience with one? What do you look for? And what do they cost? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Apr 2021 10:39 AM PDT I saw a post with many comments about how people didn't know they could roll over a 401(k) or knew they were supposed to rollover a 401(k), but didn't know how. Below is the steps I took to rollover 2 separate 401(k)'s from previous job's I've left. This is meant to be a high level guide, but should speak pretty accurately for US based employees. As always, your specific situation may be different than mine, don't blindly follow directions from internet strangers. Ask questions, evaluate the answers, and ask again if you're not sure. How to roll over a 401(k) Scenario: You start a job at Company A, that company will auto enroll you in their 401(K) plan at a set % or someone told you to sign up and you started at $x.xx% of your paycheck. You work for Company A for sometime and have several thousand dollars in your 401(k) plan. It's now 5 years later and you're at Company B and don't know what to do with your old 401(k) from Company A. Step 1. Open a traditional IRA at a reputable brokerage. Schwab, Vanguard, TD, etc, there are examples in the sidebar, I'm going to use Schwab as my example, b/c that's what I use. Call the new brokerage and tell the customer service rep you want to open an IRA so you can roll over a 401(K) from a previous employer. They will help guide you to open the correct account. Be aware, there may be brokerage specific requirements to open an IRA, like a checking account, regular brokerage account, etc. Again, the customer service rep should help answer all questions regarding this step. Step 2. During the account opening process and since you said the account is for a rollover, ask the customer service rep about how they want to receive funds from your old 401(k). It will likely be 1 of 2 options, a check or a wire/eft. For checks, you will need a specific Payee for the check to be written out to. Something along the lines of "Schwab IRA FBO /u/matt21484", again, the customer service rep will tell you this. Schwab will want you to send the check to a specific mailing address for processing. If an EFT/Wire, there will be a specific account/routing number they will want you to use. Write all of this info down, you don't yet know what Company A providor will offer yet. IMPORTANT: DO NOT CASH THE CHECK OR DEPOSIT IT WITH THE INTENT TO "MOVE" FUNDS TO THE IRA. DO NOT EFT/ACH/WIRE THE FUNDS TO A PERSONAL ACCOUNT! The IRS sees this as a cashout withdrawl and you'll owe taxes on the balance of the deposit when you file your taxes in April. Ideally, you never see the check, but sometimes, Company A providor will only mail disbursements to your personal address and not a 3rd Party. Step 3. Call you 401(k) providor from Company A. You may need to call the HR dept from Company A if you don't remember who the providor is. Once you're talking to the 401(k) providor, tell them you want to do a disbursement to a rollover IRA. They will walk you through the form that you'll have to fill out. I've gone through this process twice, and each company has been different. One let me do it all over the phone, the other, I had to fill out a paper form and e-mail it back. Remember, you are doing a withdrawl for a rollover. Not a cashout withdrawl. Ask them to send the check/disbursement directly to your new IRA brokerage. If they can't, mail it to yourself and then send the check to your new brokerage account. Schwab will not allow you to deposit the check at a branch, other brokerages might, but you should have these answers from step 2. There will be fees for doing this! An account transfer fee, withdrawl fee, account closure fee, etc. They can range from a small $ amount to a % of the balance. It sucks, just know it's going to happen. Step 4. Wait a few days for the new account to be funded. Realize, that the funds are in cash. Whatever investment options your money was in at Company A, are now sold. Invest your balance as you see fit, but invest it! Leaving it all in cash is likely not a good idea, but is a user specific decision. Note: If you have a 401(k) at Company B, you can rollover Company A 401(k) into it. The process above is the same, but replace "Schwab" with Company B's providor. Most people don't like this option as you have better options to invest with a traditional brokerage. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Apr 2021 05:11 PM PDT The position I am in now (associate) was solely created for me as a bridge position in training to become a full manager - I have been in this position for 5 months. Over the last 3 months I have been given the same work and duties that a manager does and have excelled very well. I am not yet sure if I will be given a title change during my upcoming annual review. I know the work I do now is equal to that of a manager and they make $15k more than I do. Should I mention these things prematurely for them to consider, or wait until the actual review to bring up these points for discussion? Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Am 40 - Sell a house to buy a condo and live mortgage free? Posted: 28 Apr 2021 11:27 AM PDT I am 40 (widower after 17 years of marriage) and own a house with 350K mortgage, 4 bedrooms house feel too big for my daughter (teenage) and I, and we have been talking about selling the house to buy a condo and likely don't have to worry about mortgage payment plus being closer to her school (approx 40 min drive one way currently). I don't want her to change her school at this stage to keep some stability in her life with friends and all that she has had since grade 1. Would love some advice from a financial stand point and perhaps from someone who may have had the experience of building personal life from scratch 2nd time around. thanks [link] [comments]  |
| Parent diagnosed with cancer, but they've no health insurance. What is my course of action? Posted: 28 Apr 2021 07:26 PM PDT
What do I do? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Apr 2021 02:10 PM PDT Is it possible to use a personal loan from a bank to pay off a credit card in order to have a lower interest rate?[link] [comments]  |
| Should I buy an investment property if I'm still renting? Posted: 28 Apr 2021 04:34 PM PDT So after college I moved from a low cost area to a very high cost area. Since the move, I been paying rent for about three years in this new expensive city and have about zero hope of having enough money to buy a property here anytime soon(median home value in my area is around 750k). I been saving up(30k) and have an opportunity to buy a property(150k) from a friend in an area close to my old home. I still have family in this area so it be nice to have a property there but I can't move there because of my job. My friend is currently renting the property and has no issue with connecting me to their current tenant so I can continue renting it and making some money off it the second I buy it. From the tenant's rent, I should be able to cover most, if not all, of my mortgage payments for the property and if I put in a little extra I can pay it off within 10 years. The pros I see is that I can own property in my home town in only 10 years and if anything can keep it rented as small passive income. The cons is that is that I would still have to pay rent in the city I work in and will have both my rent and my mortgage in a different location for a few years. Is this a good idea? Edit(1): - It's a single family(4 bedroom/3 bathroom) house - A very similar house right next to the property sold for 180k, friend is willing to sell for 150k because he owes me for some old favors - Current tenant's rent would be $200 more a month than what my estimated mortgage would be(15 year fixed) - Property taxes would be around 9% - My current rent would be pretty much equal to the mortgage cost - Current house is in good condition(no major repair is needed to continue to rent out) [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Apr 2021 07:41 PM PDT They don't do a 2nd mortgage anymore. Owes 72k. Wants to borrow about 15k. house valued at 160k. 13 yrs left on mortgage. Are there better programs out there that doesn't require starting over on mortgage? Only income is SS and very small retirement payment. She is 71. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Apr 2021 07:18 PM PDT first time credit card owner here so I apologize for any ignorance with this post. I have a credit card with my bank chase and my first due date was April 25th and I paid it all off sometime before that, my statement closing date says it is the 28th of April, it hasn't given me a new one so I assume it officially closes when the day is over. If I used my credit card today will this count as a late payment and hurt my credit score then have to pay interest? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Apr 2021 05:47 AM PDT I have a $1,000 secured credit card limit. I got the card a few days ago and it activated it on 04/24. I spent $500 on things. (Yes, I have money to pay this.) Discover told me "Your payments are currently due on the 19th of each month." So that means it will be due May 19th right? It's been a few days so I see a "Current Balance" now. I'm wanting to pay the balance off right now, but when will I see that I have a statement? And if I pay my balance right now does that mean it will say I have $1000 credit to spend because I paid the $500 balance, or does it continue acting like I already spent $500 of it? I'm aware my question is confusing. When I ask my parents they're like idk so I hope someone can answer this for me. [link] [comments]  |
| Feel hopeless, Insurance is sucking me dry. Posted: 28 Apr 2021 03:52 PM PDT I have a $3200 premium for me and my son (he has a myriad of diseases and syndromes). We physically cannot pay 80/20 for any plan because his surgeries (which occur 2-4 times a year) reach into the millions. We don't want to screw over our son with millions of debt for the rest of his life. But my insurance which currently covers 100% changes this June and will no longer cover medications (which makes my daily copay around $200/day) and will no longer cover elective surgeries 100% (which aren't actually elective and are needed for my son to live an actual life). What do I do, I feel helpless. My family works hard to make enough money for all of this crap and I also just barely don't qualify for any government help. I looked at other plans and hired someone to look to and there's nothing for 100% coverage. Am I screwed? I also can't move to Canada because my son's ailment is only 8 in the world and the only surgeon who can operate on him lives in the United States. [link] [comments]  |
| Should I contribute to "ABLE to Work" Account or a matched 401K? Posted: 28 Apr 2021 05:08 PM PDT I just got a wonderful new job that pays me more than I've ever made. I was born disabled, which allows me to set up an ABLE account that both doesn't count against my asset limits for other benefits I rely on, and is a managed money market account that can be withdrawn from and spent on specific things tax free. The ABLE account has a yearly contribution limit of $15,000. You can increase this limit by the standard poverty rate if you're working, which is $12,750, raising the total contribution limit to $27,750. But if you do this, you're not allowed to take advantage of a 401k. My work will match 401k contributions starting in July. I am wondering if it's better to keep the 15,000 yearly limit on my ABLE and get the benefits of doubling my money on the 401k, or if maxing out my ABLE account is better? The most obvious difference I can immediately recognize is that, since money in the ABLE account can be withdrawn for some of my immediate goals, like owning a home or business, that it's better in the short term. But beyond that, assuming my goal was to just maximize savings, it isn't immediately clear to me which is the better account to use. I mean, it kind of seems like I should try to double as much money as I can, then? But then I'm not really saving towards my more short term goals if I do that. Also, since I will only make 9 months worth of income this year, I don't even know if I need to worry about the limit because I wont really be able to contribute enough to the ABLE account to breach the non-working limit unless I get a second job or another source of income. But still, I could be setting some ratio of 401k to ABLE now. I already plan to speak to a benefits counselor, but I'm trying to just get my dumb brain wrapped around this so I can even coherently ask the right questions when I do. Numbers are not my strong suite. I know the answer is going to be nuanced, and trying to get a grip on what the differences are is my goal moreso than the title's stated question. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Apr 2021 03:09 PM PDT A month ago I was rear ended on the interstate in a construction zone. (In Arkansas) Traffic had slowed to a stop, & the girl that hit me was not paying attention, & according to the police report had "just looked down at my phone for a second." Also according to the police report, it was her 2nd offense for distracted driving (or whatever it's technically called). I was not able to get her insurance information at the scene as she was injured & taken in an ambulance, & the state trooper told me to just wait for the police report in a few days to get the information then. Fortunately I only had minor injuries, some bruising on the middle of my back which subsided after about 4-5 days & I haven't had any pain since. I didn't not see a doctor or have any medical expenses. So I initially filed a claim with my insurance & then closed that claim once I had her insurance information for Geico. It took them 2 more days to get me into a rental car, & only after I had called back & asked about it, then the local adjuster called & said he would be by to look at my car the next day. He called 4 days later to tell me it would be a total loss, & that he would have to get back to me because he didn't have the overdraft authority. That was on a Friday. I didn't hear anything back for 5 days, so I started leaving messages & finally had to call the national number to get him to respond, but his response email only said he was trying to finish my claim & that the rental car would be extended. We've gone through the same pattern a couple times now. Finally, 2 days ago, I had my first report with an amount attached to it. For reference, I was driving a 2017 Honda Civic Hatchback EX with 59,000 miles on it. Their initial offer was $18,177 (estimate of the value of my car + taxes). I felt this was too low based on the used cars I can find to replace mine, & sent him the cars I'd been seeing which are around $20,000 in my area, then added the taxes, fees & warranty I had purchased, & came to an amount of $24,000. He responded to that by saying the mileage of the cars I sent him were all lower, & when adjusted for mileage, the amount didn't change much. He ended up adding approx $500 to the initial offer, & now we sit at $18,633. (Adjusted price of the car plus estimated taxes). The thing is, used car market is kind of crazy right now, & there's no way I'm going to find a replacement at that price. Is there room for more negotiation, or is this all I'm going to get? I don't want to involve a lawyer as I feel the amount I get will not be enough to justify how much the lawyer will get, but I could if I really need to. (Also, I bought my car last May as a certified preowned from a Honda dealer, & that is generally what I look for when I purchase a used car) Any advice would be much appreciated. [link] [comments]  |
| Bank of America Debt Forgiveness Posted: 28 Apr 2021 05:40 PM PDT This is a throwaway account. I am an active duty military guy (33 widower), and I fucked up on a credit card during a family emergency. I charged a hotel room on a card that I didn't set up auto pay on, they didn't take AMEX my usual card. And I was delinquent for 90 days, partially due to military training. I have approx. $170,000 between my BOFA checking and savings, that is not all my assets but that is the only one with this bank, but a $226 hotel room stay when my mother had open heart surgery dropped my credit from 832 to 624 for non payment. I fucked up and I admit that, but I have banked with them for 20 years and never missed a payment with them before this. What are the odds BOFA will help me with situation and any tips for how to get this resolved? I am not in any serious financial straits but dropping 200 points in a few months kind of put me at a loss. [link] [comments]  |
| Recruiter quoted a different salary than the hiring manager. Should I counter? Posted: 28 Apr 2021 09:59 AM PDT So I was reached out for this company by a recruiter. The recruiter quoted me a salary 10k more than what is currently being offered by the hiring manager. The recruiter gave me that salary average BEFORE I interviewed and after I successfully interviewed and passed all the oral examinations, the hiring manager sends me an acceptance letter with a low salary (much, much lower than the reccruiter). The recruiter and hiring manager both works for the company but since they are different departments, I guess they both gave out different information. How should I tackle this? The recruiter's original salary is at least 10k more than what the acceptance letter is proposing. I want to counter but IDK how I should go about it. Should I give them the recruiter's value? Or should I quote the recruiter to the hiring manager? Something like "hey your recruiter guy said here that your company is supposed to pay me XXX, but you're only offering me XX, I want XXX." Any thoughts? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Apr 2021 07:53 PM PDT Just started a new job. My first check has Federal tax withheld at only 8.5%, not 10%. Is this accurate? Shouldn't the marginal rate be 10% up to $9950 ($19900 married)? W-4 is married filing joint, two jobs, and 0s for allowances. Edit - gross was $1869, $158 fed [link] [comments]  |
| Thinking about switching banks, any recs? Posted: 28 Apr 2021 06:18 PM PDT So I live in PG County MD and have been with a credit union for almost a decade. However the limited resources and only one main location is starting to be an inconvenience. I was thinking about switching to Capital One and opening up a 360 account since it appears to be one of the only major banks that offers interest on checking. Nerdwallet appears to like online banking accounts a lot but assuming they are on the up-and-up, I am not sure that is what I am looking for. Anyway, I wouldn't mind receiving your proverbial two cents. Thank you! [link] [comments]  |
| Unemployment insurance fraud using my address with a different name Posted: 28 Apr 2021 03:04 PM PDT At the beginning of April, I got correspondence about unemployment insurance addressed to a person I'd never heard of. It listed my address, but this person does not and has not ever lived at my address. The only record of them that I can find leads me to Texas. I live in Colorado and reported potential fraud to the state website. Three weeks later, we get a ReliaCard with the same, false, information. I reported it again via the same website and tried calling but couldn't get a person. Just recordings telling me to report it online. So what does this mean? Whoever's doing this isn't using my name, so should I assume that means my SSN isn't compromised? CreditKarma doesn't show anything weird for me or my wife and we'll pull our credit reports from the three bureaus later today. I understand straight up identity theft where the name, SSN, address, everything, is used in unison. I'm not really familiar with it being done this way with a fake name and real address. Any advice or ideas as to how this happens? Also, any ideas on the implications or ways to prevent it in the future? EDIT: Neither my wife nor I have lost our jobs or applied for unemployment in the last year. My wife was briefly laid off in January of 2020 and got benefits for less than a month before finding another job. We also haven't been notified by our employers of any claims in our names. [link] [comments]  |
| I am looking to try to tackle my student loan debt if possible Posted: 28 Apr 2021 07:36 PM PDT Hi all, I just had a very heartfelt conversation with my dad about this...It is often hard for me to really think about my debt because I can't pay down my principal so it continues to grow. I am 29 and I really can't think about a house or kids...and I feel like I will always carry this debt. I $206,000 in student loan debt and I currently work as an AMFT/substance use counselor making $53,000 pre taxes. I live in SF in a rent controlled $1,200/month apartment. I just got to the point of being able to consistently save $500 a month. My dad mentioned 1. That I may want to find a way to invest or put away my savings so that lenders can't come after it or sue me for it.. and 2. I should consider the possibility of declaring bankruptcy to resolve my student loan debt. Overall I am unsure..I suppose I am just looking for feedback. I have always felt helpless in the situation and paid what I could. I know so many people struggle with this so what would make my situation any more solvable? But my conversation with my dad at least made me want to reach out and ask. Thank you for reading and for any advice that may come Chrissy [link] [comments]  |
| ¿¿ "You have too much debt to be eligible for debt consolidation" ?? Posted: 28 Apr 2021 07:34 PM PDT Am I the only person who's incredibly frustrated and confused by loan applications giving the responses like the following when your reason for application is to consolidate said revolving trades into a single loan?
Like, isn't the whole point of a debt consolidation loan that I have too much debt, and am trying to consolidate it into a single, lower interest rate, fixed term, more manageable loan? [link] [comments]  |
| Paying for CPO while still under factory warranty Posted: 28 Apr 2021 07:33 PM PDT Buying a used GMC Sierra a 2019 with 15k miles. Factory warranty shows, 5 years/100k power train, 3 years/ 36k bumper to bumper. If I pay extra to get it certified it would be, 6 years/100k power train, (from date of first sale) 4 years/ 48k bumper to bumper (12months added to existing bumper to bumper) Assuming I understand GMs warranty programs this doesn't seem worth it. Assuming it cost about $500 to certify it, would it be a waste to pay to have it certified? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Apr 2021 07:26 PM PDT Hello, I have inherited about $17k in silver and roughly $13k in gold. I am considering selling off the silver since it is fairly high right now and rolling the money into an index fund (and probably moving the gold that direction eventually too). I'm also considering buying a house in probably 3 or so years and may need this money to go towards a down payment. Is it smart to invest this money in an index fund for this relatively short term (~3 years) or would it be safer to move it to a CD? Also, is there any tax issues I should be aware of in liquidating the metals? Thanks. [link] [comments]  |
| Amazon chase visa. Need a replacement card Posted: 28 Apr 2021 07:24 PM PDT I have the Amazon Chase Visa card with the actual metal card. Well the plastic peeled off so I need a replacement card. I have requested it on the website while logged into my account about three times. I've called every phone number I can find and they all go nowhere. Does anybody know the phone number to get a replacement Amazon Chase Visa card? [link] [comments]  |
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