Personal Finance Always download your bank/credit card statements! |
- Always download your bank/credit card statements!
- Suntrust Bank took all our money! What do we do?
- Where do I put a 50K house deposit I don't need to access for at least 6 years?
- Why is my car insurance so expensive?
- Looking for a step to step guide on to perform a mega back door roth
- 20 y/o college student, switching IRA from Betterment to Vanguard. Am I missing anything?
- I am 19. Should I all in VTSAX or do a Vanguard Target Retirement 2065 Fund (VLXVX) for my Roth IRA?
- URGENT: Primerica offered me a job but its starting to look like a scam.
- Negotiate less hours in a job offer?
- Father passed away. Not sure how to make the best of his life insurance windfall.
- Inherited my father’s investment account. Questions.
- Senior Software Engineer - Earning Extra Income Any Tips
- Should I keep two types of retirement accounts open?
- Should I still contribute to a Roth IRA?
- What kind of loan should I be researching?
- gift money question and jointly owned savings accounts
- Why did my credit score drop?
- would you pay half of your pay cheque on rent each month if you found a place you really loved and felt safe in? why or why not?
- Got my second job at 18, looking to get a card for Direct Deposit, but not sure how to get one.
- Should your emergency fund include the amount of your next credit card payment?
- Am I a first time home buyer or a refinancer?
- 401k Rollover to Roth IRA while my income tax rate is low?
- Unrecognized account on my credit statement for 15+ years leading to exceptional credit
- Are bonds worthwhile for someone in their 20s?
| Always download your bank/credit card statements! Posted: 07 Mar 2021 04:18 AM PST I just want to make everyone aware of this situation because I never even considered it. I get paperless bank and credit card statements, like most people. I've never thought about downloading them because I assumed they would always be available online if I ever needed them. Well, I'm having a state tax audit right now going back to January 2017. One checking account I used during this time was closed in 2018 and they're unable to retrieve my statements for the first half of 2017. One of the credit cards I used during this period charges $5 per statement, and they only have statements available online going back one year. So that's $5 for each month of 2017, 2018 & 2019. On top of that they will only offer to mail them, which takes a VERY long time these days. It could cost me around $10,000 if I can't prove I spent money on what I claimed to spend it on. To avoid this entire situation all I had to do was buy a little external hard drive for a few dollars and take a few minutes every month to download all my statements onto it. I recommend everyone else take this simple precaution because it could save you some major headaches someday. You never know. EDIT: I don't want anyone reading this post to be afraid of a surprise tax audit. This didn't happen to me as a surprise. I wasn't flagged. I'm not suspected of fraud. My new accountant last year noticed a mistake on my previous tax returns so we filed amended returns and they're auditing them. It's what we expected to happen. We turned in all the receipts. My tax agent wants purchase transactions to back up the receipts. The only reason I'm posting this is because I have been made aware that if I simply kept my own records this would have been a completely painless process. [link] [comments]  |
| Suntrust Bank took all our money! What do we do? Posted: 07 Mar 2021 01:18 PM PST On March 3rd, 2021, my husband was out and tried to buy a cheeseburger, when his card declined. He called me to let me know his card was not working and asked if i could get to the bottom of it. I had noticed the previous day, that the app on my phone for our bank, SUNTRUST, was not letting me login as i was trying to check our funds for budgeting, and i assumed the app was being updated so i didn't bother with it. all in all, i ended up calling the customer service phone number on the back of my debit card, which connected me with a representative to whom i explained the current situtation. The representative began to stutter and could barely get a sentence out without placing an "umm" between every word, which instantly gave me anxiety. As she procceeded to answer my question as to why my card was not working, she stated "The account has been closed, Suntrust decided they will no longer continue banking with you as per a 'routine review' of their accounts". As you could imagine, i was instantly irate, Due to the fact that all of my husband and I's funds were in this one sole account, and i had not recieved ANY notification of closure or review. I instantly hung up the phone, and decided i would go down to my local branch, because surely this was some mistake. As i arrived at the branch, i sat down with a banker in a very humid glass office, and kindly explained what the representative had told me on the phone, but that i had no knowledge of why this would have happened. The banker seemed confused as if this had never occured before, and procceeded to pull up my account. As he read over the notes, he remained quiet which i found odd. He turned to me and very plainly stated "there are no notes in regards to the situtation, im not sure why, there is just a phone number provided for you to contact for more information, im sorry." and handed me a paper with the said phone number on it. I walked out of the building, and called the number in my car from the parking lot. It brought up the automated system for the suntrust fraud department, which then led to me to a representative with an international accent, most likely indian, which led me to assume this was an offshore phone number. I again had to explain my situation and yet AGAIN no explanation could be provided. At this point, i was now past anger, and my emotions grew into fear, where is my money!? I walked back into the branch, unsatisfied with the service being provided from this institution, and requested to speak with the manager. He politely led me into his office, as i again explained the situation. as the banker before had, the manager pulled my account up and read through what seemed like an endless amounts of notes, yet could not provide an explantion. He stated he had to call the 'back office' who are responsible for account closures, placed the call on speaker but as soon as someone picked up, placed it on a personal call so i could not hear the responses. The manager explained what was going on, and asked "is there any information that i CAN provide to the client?" which flew a huge red flag for me.. what do you mean what you can tell me? its my money for god sake, don't hide information.. but anyways, he continued on and could only state that the fraud department was reviewing my account and they decided to close the account. he could not provide any timeframe for when i would recieve my money, but that it would come through a check in the mail. I cried right there unapologetically, this bank took all our money, won't give us access to it online to even verify the amount in the account, and won't provide any further information. I have no money to pay the bills, feed my family, put gas in the car. I don't know how this is even legal, as i have seen many other people's testimonies reporting the same, with no luck for a resolution. We had thousands of dollars in this account, and they took it all without remorse or explanation. What do we do now? Get a lawyer? How do we pay? If this has happened to you, i am so sorry, but this just can't be legal. what now. [link] [comments]  |
| Where do I put a 50K house deposit I don't need to access for at least 6 years? Posted: 07 Mar 2021 06:34 AM PST So right now I have a UK government help to buy ISA which I transfer 4K into every year (this is the max) to receive the 25% interest towards a house, and the rest of my deposit was in a fixed rate savings account. However, the savings account dropped to 0.5% interest, so I took it out and I was planning to buy premium bonds because with average luck I would earn double what the 0.5% interest gave me. What other options do I have given this is my future house deposit (but I won't be buying for probably another 6 years minimum, I'm 20 right now) so I am looking for a low-risk option? It feels like a waste having a large sum sat in such a low-interest account, and bonds aren't much better. Many people are telling me I should invest, but I know nothing about investing (and as a final year student I don't really have the time right now to learn) so I am obviously apprehensive to do this. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, it feels sort of intimidating being a clueless 20-year-old with a relatively large sum and no knowledge of finances, I really don't want to fuck up and I'm possibly overly-cautious about things like stocks&shares ISAs. Is a financial advisor worth it? EDIT: just for clarification I won't need to access the money for emergency at all, I really won't need to touch it until I buy a house [link] [comments]  |
| Why is my car insurance so expensive? Posted: 07 Mar 2021 10:40 AM PST I'm 26, never had a ticket, never been in an accident, been driving since 19, and have a 760 credit score. Is it because I live in miami? My vehicle is 15 years old with 200k miles and the lowest quote I received was from geico, $120 a month for NO coverage, and bare minimum liability. I'm basically paying $120 just so I could present proof of insurance to law enforcement. This is insane. [link] [comments]  |
| Looking for a step to step guide on to perform a mega back door roth Posted: 07 Mar 2021 06:32 PM PST Didnt get any responses last time so reposted. I'm looking to start a mega back door roth. There is an option for "after-tax" contributions on my Transamerica account. According to customer service, my employer supports this. So my question is what happen's next? I understand that I will then need to roll over that portion to my roth IRA (which is with fidelity). How do I go about doing this? The other option is rolling it into a "roth in plan conversion". From what I read, fidelity will do this for your automatically. I do not know if transamerica this this option and nether did their customer service. Either way, customer service had no idea what I was talking about when I asked them about rolling it over to a fidelity roth IRA either. So I'm hoping someone here has some experience with this. Thanks for the help. [link] [comments]  |
| 20 y/o college student, switching IRA from Betterment to Vanguard. Am I missing anything? Posted: 07 Mar 2021 04:05 PM PST Hey everyone, after finally seeing the millionth mention of how great Vanguard's IRA options are, I decided it was time to switch. I originally used Betterment because I only had experience with robo-advisors and it seems to be widely regarded as the best one, but people seem to prefer Vanguard for lower fees and I finally decided to hop on. First thing's first, I already know I did this inefficiently. Since it said it would require paperwork to transfer the account over, I just decided to take the penalty and withdraw my <$500 from Betterment. Then, I just put through a minimum deposit for a 2065 Target Retirement Fund on the Roth IRA I created with Vanguard. My question here is, is there anything I'm missing by doing this? I know I will get hit with the 10% early withdrawal bonus, but I'm not really worried about that part. Primarily, is there more I could/should be doing in my Vanguard Roth IRA that won't cost me a $3,000 minimum investment? Even when I can afford that, does it make sense to put in another mutual fund if I'm not a super risky investor and am perfectly fine to set and forget it? Any help on this is much appreciated! Admittedly, the Vanguard website definitely baffled me with how un-intuitive it is compared to most robo-advisors, so I wasn't really sure where to go or look for anything. Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| I am 19. Should I all in VTSAX or do a Vanguard Target Retirement 2065 Fund (VLXVX) for my Roth IRA? Posted: 07 Mar 2021 08:32 AM PST I've seen people fight for both of these.... can I all in VTSAX for awhile and then switch to the TDIF in 20 years? How do you all allocate your Roth IRA funds? Also, can someone please explain DRIP to me? Are there any negatives? Thank you in advance for your help. I am new to all of this. Edit: thank you so much for all of the input and replies! I have read each one of them and I really appreciate you all taking the time to give your advice. [link] [comments]  |
| URGENT: Primerica offered me a job but its starting to look like a scam. Posted: 07 Mar 2021 04:56 PM PST I saw someone posted about Primerica on this page before, but that was 6 years ago. So I'm posting this in hopes of potential clarity from others. A high-school friend contacted me out of the blue recently and asked me if I'd like to work for Primerica. He repped it up so much that I thought it was an amazing opportunity. I said yes, and the interview I had with the manager was fantastic. However, things are starting to not add up to me: 1. They require a ~125$ (something like that) fee to get onto training 2. Apparently they ALSO deduct 25 dollars from your account every month just for being an employee, I learned about this from my best friend who was planning to take the job with me. 3. I decided to investigate online. There's positive reviews from employees, but there's also a staggering number of incredibly negative reviews left by both customers AND employees, largely complaining of fraudulent activity. I've never heard of this company before my old friend offered the job to me. I want to trust that an old friend wouldn't try to scam me, but this situation is really starting to shape up into a scam. If anyone has any experience whatsoever with the company and would like to share their experience with it, or even if you have advice at all, I'd love to hear it! I'll be starting on Wednesday and I have a feeling I need to act quick and decide if I want to quit or not before then. I'm 21 years old and live in poverty and covid has made the situation even worse, so I would really appreciate knowing if I should pull through or not :( EDIT: please excuse me for putting urgent in the title, my bad EDIT 2: thank you very much to everyone who (kindly) shared their experience and their knowledge with me! This has been an eye opening experience, and thanks to everyone here, ill be able to use the information I've been given to be more careful with this sort of thing in the future. I very much appreciate it! [link] [comments]  |
| Negotiate less hours in a job offer? Posted: 07 Mar 2021 08:47 AM PST Hello. I am currently employed at company A. The work week is defined by 35 hrs/wk. 4 weeks of vacation, 3 floating days off. I was approached by company B, who do the same work as company A, for a similar role in the same city. Company B is 40 hours per week, 3 weeks vacation, no floating time off. Through my 10+ year career, I have had multiple jobs ranging from 35-40 hours/wk. I have come to learn that my motivation, dedication, and output is better at 35 hours than at 40 hours. I also value work/life balance more than money at this time, and 5 additional hours per week (or 250+ additional hours per year) are valuable to me. I can choose to do what I'd like, including work additional hours beyond 35 for the company. Job offer B is for more money overall. However, the pay per hour worked (considering 1.5 weeks less vacation and the 40 hour work week) is not as significant. Has anyone approached a job offer and negotiated hour requirements before? Would you have any advice or recommendations to share stemming from your experience? I figure this will come off as someone who does not want to work. So I hesitate. In reality, this is me having identified that I can be a bigger asset for a company at 35 hours than 40, and it provides me the balance that I desire for my health and well being. [link] [comments]  |
| Father passed away. Not sure how to make the best of his life insurance windfall. Posted: 07 Mar 2021 12:58 PM PST Hello, my mother, sister, and I (son) are looking for some advice on what to do with a windfall of $400,000 from the passing of my father on December 31, 2021. The money is not taxed. We were left with a $290,000 mortgage on our home which is valued at around $600,000. My father did not have any savings and did have debt which we have not paid at all since it was all in his name. My mother has about $4,000 of debt which we do plan on paying off. I have about $20,000 in student loan debt and my sister has about $20,000 in student loan debt that we do not plan on paying off for quite a while as due to COVID, there are delays in place and the interest rate is not high. Our current income: Myself: $40,000 / year job (First job ever, expecting a $5,000 / year raise in 2 months and the average salary for my role is $70,000 in the US which should come to fruition 6 months - 1 year from now. Job security is very comfortable, family friend is employer.) Sister: $200 / week (Still in college for another year. Had a job that laid her off when COVID started. On unemployment now.) Rent: $1650 / month (2 family home, we rent the upstairs.) Expenses: Our expenses used to be about $5,500 / month when my father was here. We have significantly reduced our monthly expenses to about $4,000 / month and are still actively reducing where we can. Property taxes are a significant portion ($1,200 / month) from where we live. Goal: Our current goal or plan is to use the windfall to generate income or growth for the future (10+ years from now). An idea that we have is: $60,000 Emergency Fund Savings Account $340,000 Bond/Stock/Mutual Fund Portfolio (not sure what would be best for us here, we do not expect to need the money for at minimum 5 years. We wish to put it somewhere and forget about it for a long time while in the future also adding to it when we earn more income.) All of my job's income + my sister's unemployment (and future job) to pay the monthly expenses such as groceries, mortgage, utilities, etc. I already have $25,000 in my checking account which I got from selling items online in video games I saved from over the years. This really hit us by surprise as my father was a really great guy who was not sick/in bad health at all and was always enthusiastic and cheerful to everyone, even strangers. We miss him very much. Even in his death he took care of us to make sure we were going to be okay by having life insurance. We do not want to squander all he did for us and waste the money. We want to make sure we do it right and use this money as a great head start in life, even if it has to be without him. Any advice is greatly appreciated, we were never rich financially, but my father made us feel rich with his upbeat personality. We are just kind of lost on how to make sure we don't squander this. [link] [comments]  |
| Inherited my father’s investment account. Questions. Posted: 07 Mar 2021 06:52 AM PST Hi all, Unfortunately my father died last week and am beneficiary on his investment account with a major private investment firm. It appears he has a traditional 401k worth $240k... a separate retirement checking account administered by them worth $120k... and stocks bought via his former employer worth $40k. I'm guessing total account worth is upwards of $400k. I'll be talking to his financial advisor next week... but what I would like to do is keep the 401k and stocks somehow invested with them for my retirement and continue access to the $120k via checking like it currently is to pay off around $8k of personal debt and keep it accessible for house needs and emergencies. My income and job are stable... but you never know. Just wondering if this sounds workable or should I go about this in another manner? Anyone know what possible tax implications might arise? Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Senior Software Engineer - Earning Extra Income Any Tips Posted: 07 Mar 2021 02:09 PM PST Hello, Is there a guide / recommendations to finding decent paying IT work that can be parttime/remote to supplement my flexible 9-5? I am a senior backend developer specializing in C# but have done full stack and Java and always looking to add new skills. I have looked at the upwork etc in the past (and spending today applying) but I remember seeing that a lot of the projects were bid on by offshore people that would work for a extremely reduced rate. Background is that I recently had a personal crisis that ended up costing me around $50k in cash (95% of savings and credit) and am worried if anything happens I will lose everything. I am fortunate that I am still employed making just over 6 figures but I do not like having so little savings and am looking for side income. Not going to lie at this point, I would take some manual labor day jobs if I could find them and they paid decent. [link] [comments]  |
| Should I keep two types of retirement accounts open? Posted: 07 Mar 2021 07:57 PM PST I (23M) recently left my first full time job where I started an employee Roth IRA. It has about $3500 in it at the moment and I'm not eligible to contribute to it since it was associated with my previous job. At my new job, I will be opening a 401k account soon, which offers up to 5% employer match, and I'm planning to take full advantage of this. My question is, should I roll over my existing IRA into a new individual IRA which I can contribute to, or just let it sit, or is it possible to roll over into my new 401k? Based on my current understanding of compounding interest, it seems counter intuitive to split retirement savings into two accounts because it will not grow as quickly as the same amount combined into one account, but I might be misunderstanding. Thanks for the help. [link] [comments]  |
| Should I still contribute to a Roth IRA? Posted: 07 Mar 2021 03:41 PM PST 28 years old, just barely started in my professional career. I don't currently have a Roth IRA, I know I'm late in the game but I came from a low-income family and this is my first time with real money. Income is currently $151,000, and my job does a 4% match for 401k. I currently put 15% towards my 401k. Even if I max out the $19,500 towards 401k, my income is too high to put it into Roth IRA. I could do backdoor, but I don't quite understand the benefit at this point. Is it still worth it for me to open an account? [link] [comments]  |
| What kind of loan should I be researching? Posted: 07 Mar 2021 06:51 PM PST Im dealing with a house and small piece of land. The property is owned outright. But the house is in poor condition. I'm a little confused as to the type of financing I need to pursue in order to renovate the home. The house is what i can only describe as "beyond reasonable repair" with significant foundation damage. I'd like to replace the home entirely. Considering the property already has a structure, is this a home improvement? Since there will be nothing left of the original structure (except maybe part of the hole in the ground) AND the fact that the property is currently owned outright, I don't imagine this is a "re-finance" Or is this a straight up construction loan? [link] [comments]  |
| gift money question and jointly owned savings accounts Posted: 07 Mar 2021 05:11 PM PST Howdy! Parents can contribute a collective $30,000 per child to help with a down payment for a house. We are aware of filling out the "gift tax forms" if anything over that amount. Here is where my question comes into play. The father has his own savings account. However, the child's saving's account is also shared jointly with his father. Both accounts are in the same bank. The father wants to know if he was to move $50k from his savings account into the joint account he shares with his son --- if he will still be required to fill out a "gift tax form" or not because both savings accounts also have the fathers name. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 07 Mar 2021 05:01 PM PST Exactly as the title says. Here's the background. I had a score consistently 810-820 for about 5 years. This past year it drops to the 780s. I can't figure out why. I have three credit cards, and I ALWAYS pay the balance in full every month. a) every day card - everything I can charge that isn't an auto debit. varies 1,000 to 2,500 depending on month. Cc limit is 35k. b) monthly charge card: monthly autodebit (car insurance, cell phone, etc) usually 300 or so monthly. Cc limit is 10,000 c) hotel branded card. Only for hotel stays and incidentals. Varies 200-800 depending. Limit is 8k. total cc limit: 53k. Highest monthly usage: 5000 (rare), which is still <10% utiliztiom. my car loan was paid off at least 1 year before the score dropped. I have no mortgage. I have no delinquent/collections on my record i have no other debt. This is the only thing I can identify as the cause - I paid off the last my grad student loans in summer 2019, and the last of my undergrad loans in late summer 2020. is my credit score now penalized because I have no installment debt? i haven't applied for credit or closed any cards in years. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 07 Mar 2021 03:44 PM PST I make $4000/month. Found a place I really like but the rent is $2000/month. I've been living in really crappy housing for too long and would like to live in a nice place for once. but I don't know if this is a good idea or not. I have no debt. I have 6 months emergency fund. Has anyone else ever been in this situation? what would you do? [link] [comments]  |
| Got my second job at 18, looking to get a card for Direct Deposit, but not sure how to get one. Posted: 07 Mar 2021 07:50 PM PST My first job gave me a card for Direct Deposit so I didn't have to worry about that, but my second job does paper checks with the option of Direct Deposit. How do I get access to one? I tired using one from Walgreens, but it wouldn't let me register it due to some error. Thankfully I was still able to use the money I put on it. Also, should I get an ID before even trying? I'm currently trying to get one at the moment, so should I just wait until I get it? I was told that I couldn't register the card I got from Walgreens because I "wasn't in the system" or something like that because I don't have an ID yet. Nonetheless, If I should, what would be the best place to get a card at? [link] [comments]  |
| Should your emergency fund include the amount of your next credit card payment? Posted: 07 Mar 2021 12:37 PM PST Let's say I have $15k saved up in an emergency fund. However, every month I pay my credit card in full for $1000, which covers the previous month's expenses. Does that mean I should actually save $16k in the emergency fund, to take into account the $1000 credit card bill? The way I see it, if you treat your credit card like a debit card and only spend money that you actually have, then a $15k emergency fund with a $1k credit card bill is only worth $14k. I also might be overthinking it. [link] [comments]  |
| Am I a first time home buyer or a refinancer? Posted: 07 Mar 2021 08:04 AM PST I inherited my mothers house who passed away this past July. I have been making the mortgage payments on the home and have moved in due to rent being less than what I was paying. I would like to continue to live here and need to secure a mortgage in my name. I have a low income, no debt, credit score thanks to reddit helping me is 759 right now(I had no credit in July and knew I would need some in order to do this so I asked Reddit for help. Thank you Reddit!) The mortgage is in her name alone and I have never had a mortgage. My spouse and I work at the same place, we earn almost identical incomes, we live in a rural area. Mothers mortgage is for a 40yr, 5.25% interest rate, payment is 416.71, escrow is 247.29 for a total monthly payment of $664 on $69,227 remaining. I wanted to do a 15yr fixed rate first time home buyers, is that even possible? The local bank in our tiny rural town will not help, my bank is an online bank made for the military but I am not military so I don't qualify for any services they offer. So I am looking for a lender, maybe a state or government loan due to my income and being a first time home buyer. [link] [comments]  |
| 401k Rollover to Roth IRA while my income tax rate is low? Posted: 07 Mar 2021 07:17 PM PST I have a Traditional 401k worth 30k from my previous employer with Fidelity. I just left it there and kinda forgot about it once I moved on to another company and started contributing to current company's 401k with Voya. I would like to start a Roth IRA and am debating the merits of rolling over my old 401k from Fidelity to this Roth IRA that I will also open up with Fidelity. My wife is midway through university and is not working yet, so our income tax rate is currently 12%. Once she starts working in about 2 years, our income tax rate will probably double to 22-24%. Would it be a good idea to roll over the 401k to Roth IRA while my tax rate is low to get me started with a Roth IRA? Another reason I'd like to do this is that I'd get more investment choices with a Roth IRA. Will it count towards the Roth IRA contribution limit? Will I be able to withdraw it without incurring penalty or will I have to wait until after 5 years? Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Unrecognized account on my credit statement for 15+ years leading to exceptional credit Posted: 07 Mar 2021 07:06 PM PST Hi there, I'm a 23-year old who is checking his credit history for the first time. When I logged in, I found out that I have exceptional credit (800+), which was kind of shocking to me. I looked at my accounts and saw stuff that I recognized (my current apartment account, my current credit card) but then I saw something completely out of the blue - a credit card account with Barclays Bank Delaware which has been open since March 26, 2004. I was five years old at the time and I've never been to Delaware. It has an exceptional payment history (always paid on time) which likely explains my unusually high credit. I have no idea what to do in this situation. The card is still active and has a current balance of nearly $1000. The full account number isn't even visible, so I have no idea how this account could have got there, nor how I can get in contact with anyone who can help me identify and remove this account. Does anyone have any ideas of where to start or what to do? [link] [comments]  |
| Are bonds worthwhile for someone in their 20s? Posted: 07 Mar 2021 06:43 AM PST The title is self explanatory. Why should I not replace bond allocation with other assets in portfolio? With bonds at ~1% nominal rates, and government debt at all time high, it seems like a poor risk reward bet to me. Especially for someone like myself in their mid 20s, would it not be wiser to have an 80/20 portfolio with 80% stocks, and 20% other assets (ie crypto, precious metals)? I would also consider 100% equities, but would love to diversify out of broader stock market risk. For context, I've been following this 80/20 strategy since last year with stocks and Bitcoin, but now my portfolio is 50/50 and I'm considering selling some BTC to rebalance. Would love to know others thoughts on totally ridding bonds from your portfolio. [link] [comments]  |
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