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    Sunday, November 1, 2020

    Personal Finance Take some time to understand every number on your paycheck

    Personal Finance Take some time to understand every number on your paycheck


    Take some time to understand every number on your paycheck

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 04:53 PM PST

    When you start a new job, especially your first job, spend some time studying your paycheck. They can look complicated because they are full of abbreviations, but it's worth your time to make sure everything is correct and you understand exactly how your money is being divvied up.

    You will see tax deductions, as well as possibly other deductions before and after tax. If you have signed up for some automatic deductions (such as money for your flexible spending account (FSA), personal contributions to your retirement account, or voluntary buy-up plans for your health insurance) make sure the amount withdrawn is what you expected.

    If you get a raise, check and make sure that the correct amount is written on your next paycheck. (I speak from experience, as someone who spotted an error that would have cost me $600 per year if I hadn't checked.)

    If something isn't adding up, ask your employer. People make mistakes, and they will correct it for you.

    submitted by /u/westghost9
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    My Grandma left me a fund in NY(USA) but, she has parkisons, she cant remember where or who it was with. Is there a way for me to look something like this up with my ssn or name?

    Posted: 31 Oct 2020 10:14 PM PDT

    My family had bank managers steal hundreds of thousands of dollars while my great uncle was dying, and there is a huge lawsuit to (hopefully) remedy it.. I dont care if my grandma left me $1000 or $1000000 - I just dont want her money that she worked hard for to just disappear. She has lost most of her long term memory. And her WILL does not talk about it because in Brazil you can only leave $$$ to your next of kin(children or direct family).

    I know it sounds like im looking for money and those arent my intentions. Im not successful in anyway but, im financially independent so it doesn't matter to me if its a small amount or it ends up being nothing, honestly.. Again its more to make sure that my grandma who lived through WW2 and was a single parent for over 50 years doesnt have her hard earned money disappear.

    Thank you for any help !

    Edit because someone mentioned to do this.

    I ran a credit report and nothing in my name that isnt supposed to be, and I have never received a 1099 like others have mentioned, if the fund was accruing interest. This could mean the fund is in her name with me as a beneficiary or as a second person on the account?

    Thank you to a few Brazil Lawyers who have reached out u/fodafoda mentioned that 50% must go to next of kin/spouse "herdeiros necessários " while the other 50% can be distributed as she wishes, maybe the NY state mention was a red herring and it is in Brazil ?

    Thanks to u/Engineeringdude79 for pointing out that if it is in Brazil then her yearly tax report or her "declaração de imposto de renda" will have all her assets listed there. Since I haven't received a 1099 or papers in my name about it. Seems like I may have been mistaken on the information ( or this could be a red herring as well).

    Unfortunately I leave Brazil tomorrow to return to work, so tomorrow I will go see if She doesnt mine to look at her papers or her yearly tax return - to get more leads.

    I cant believe how much this has blown up and Im going through everyones replies but, just wanted to shout out EVERYONE who posted with tips or info.. You guys&gals ROCK , thank you so much!

    submitted by /u/Thatbraziliann
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    Does buying a house really save money for a single-person household?

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 02:47 PM PST

    Hello everyone. I wanted to hear some perspectives on buying a house. I know the same question gets posted quite often. But I can't seem to figure out this would be a good idea or not for me. People think purchasing one would save me a great deal of money. But I have some doubts.

    I am a 30yo single guy. I earn 110k a year before tax with a little extra from yearly bonuses (not much). I own a car that's paid off and rent an apt that's $1900 a month. I have no debt.

    Here is the tricky part. I live in New Jersey which has the highest rate for property tax in the country (google tells me 2.44%). If I were to buy a house, I would probably buy a 2-3 bedroom condo/townhouse that would cost around 350k-450k. These houses are probably going to be ~15-25 years old.

    Assuming my lifestyle and spending habits remain the same and have enough saved for a downpayment (~20%), would buying a house really save me much money vs renting an apt considering taxes, maintenance, etc? I am not sure saving few thousands a year is worth all the trouble of maintaining a house. Any thoughts?

    Thanks in advance!

    Edit: Oh wow, thanks everyone who responded! I didn't expect so many responses in such a short period of time. I am going to take some time to read all of them. I appreciate your input.

    submitted by /u/jeywail
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    Forced to pay 20k for job change contract breech - trying to make it not taxable — help!!

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 07:07 AM PST

    I violated the non compete work mile radius for a job change and contract dictates I owe prior employer 20k. There's already been lawyers involved on both sides and new employer is paying for all of it. That won't change.

    My question is the verbiage is such that I need to pay prior company so new job needs to essentially pay me the 20 so I can then pay off the contract violation.

    Is there any way I can avoid needing to pay income tax on this?? For whatever legal reason direct business to business transfer is not an option, one lawyer friend said a cashiers check could work..? Any other ideas??

    Thanks!

    submitted by /u/Responsible-Level155
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    Sketchy loan company kinda screwed me

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 04:26 PM PST

    Hi everyone, I'm 21 years old and have managed to get stuck in one of the worst situations i've ever been in. A couple months back I found myself behind on a few car payments by not budgeting properly and some unaccounted expenses, In the panic I was in and pressure from my father I sought out to get a loan online. I searched through i think it was lendingtree or something and couldn't find one with an acceptable interest rate until I came across Helix Loans, their initial payoff stood around 1200-1600$ I can't remember for an 800$ Loan. I jumped at the chance to get my head above water without looking more than a few minutes at the fine print. Needless to say I logged on to their payment system this morning cause with this month's payment I had given them back 800$ for the 800$ loan. My heart sank and I almost threw up to see that I had payments scheduled all the way into 2022 I believe. 5600$ left to pay off. Now I really don't have money to pay this off and am just left feeling helpless and empty for making such a dumb decision. Anyways not sure if this is the right place to post it but any helpful advice would mean the world to me.

    submitted by /u/ZShureshot
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    Four weeks left until company closes. Use all vacation/personal time?

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 06:07 PM PST

    Hey all, as title suggests looking for advice on whether to take my available vacation and personal time before the company I work for closes on November 27. Here's the deal, we are allowed to cash out only our sick time. I have roughly 75 hours worth. We are not able to cash out vacation and PL time. I just checked and I have 17 days plus Thanksgiving off so I would only be required to work one day. There's a few loose ends to be tied up but honestly I'm so frustrated with the way I've been treated the past few months that I don't care. I have a letter of recommendation and my personal data has been wiped from my computer. Just want to know if I'm in the right since it's my earned time. The only thing that's playing with my conscience is it may make more fork for three of my co-workers on my team. I do suspect two of them would do the same if they had the time. What should I do?

    submitted by /u/Ayediosmio6
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    Multiple $2k Transfers via Zelle From Unknown Sender - What to do?

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 01:42 PM PST

    Last month I receive 2 separate $2k Zelle transfers to my main checking account (towards the beginning of the month) from the same sender (a woman's name I don't know). I don't typically use Zelle but had it setup back in the day before Venmo got hot. I figured it was a mistake and at some point my bank would call or just reverse the transfer. Fast forward to today and the monty is still in my account and I received a 3rd transfer from the same woman for another $2k. At this point it feels like it's this ladies rent money. I don't know to contact my back as it could be some sort of long scam or this woman's account is somehow compromised. Any thoughts on how I should handle?

    Update: Should have searched this thread but found this post - https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/hevbgk/someone_sent_me_3000_through_zelle_and_i_dont/ (in short, i'll continue to leave this money alone in my account and assume at some point the sender will call Zelle or their bank to request it back).

    submitted by /u/rickybobinski
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    This is going to be a lot but can someone help me out with job benefits? Pics below.

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 05:23 PM PST

    I'm almost 26. Live in Georgia. My bills are about $500 a month. I have no dependents. I owe less than $300 on my credit card. I make 13.50$ an hour. Paid biweekly. I'm doing 6% to my 401k since my job matches .50 cents for the first 6%

    Sorry for the long post

    PPO IS 15$ HDHP IS 0$

    Is this necessary? How much do I contribute?

    Metlife Accident insurance

    Metlife hospital insurance.

    Metlife critical illness

    Premier is $4.12, base is $0

    Vision standard is $0, Premier is $2.56

    What ever this is. AD&D insurance

    submitted by /u/Nateddog21
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    My husband just got his first liveable wage job at 31. Does it make sense for him to max out retirement contributions this year to try to "catch up"?

    Posted: 31 Oct 2020 10:25 AM PDT

    Title. It's been a big year and we're trying to be strategic. We are comfortable on just my income and have no debt to pay off now, so we are either going to save his income for big purchases, put it in retirement to the $19k (or whatever) limit, or invest.

    • We'll file married filing separately in a community property state.
    • His new employer's 401k matching is a joke, so we're disregarding it completely. ($250/yr matching and you're not vested until 6 years, lol.)
    • He has nothing saved for retirement now.
    • We might benefit a little from having a lower AGI this year.
    • We'd like to start a family within a couple years and buy a house within a few more.

    Would it make any sense for him to max out retirement this year and next, or would he be better off just putting in 15% and not worrying about the age he started? Thanks!

    Edit: Wow, I went for a walk and this blew up. I'll be getting to responses! A lot of people have asked why MFS instead of MFJ. I have $90k in student debt that is on track for complete tax-free forgiveness in about 6 years, regardless of how much I pay into it. The payments are based on my income. If we file MFJ, the payments are based on the sum of our incomes, but if we file MFS, it's based on 50% of our combined incomes. It should make a difference of about $5-6k per year. I've done the calculators a little bit and it seems like we still come out ahead for now with MFS, although I'm not as knowledgeable about how that affects contribution limits, etc.

    submitted by /u/snortney
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    How to do a balance transfer on a personal loan?

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 05:38 PM PST

    Hey guys!

    About 3 months ago, I thought it would be a great idea to transfer my credit card balance (7k) to a personal loan by Payoff (Happy Money) They started off charging me over $40 a month in interest plus the one time loan origination fee. I have since found a balance transfer card that is offering 0% interest for 18 months on balance transfers with a $115 fee. I have $5000 left of the loan and reached out to Payoff to ask how to go about a balance transfer and they said they do not allow transfers and only allow a full one time pay off.

    Is this true? Should I try to transfer the loan anyway? My card is allowing me to transfer $3800 of the loan amount.

    **Payoff doesn't actually hold the loan they are the "servicers" and Alliant credit union actually owns the debt.

    Any help will be greatly appreciated.

    submitted by /u/throwthrowthrew
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    How do I calculate my investment returns when I've been buying and selling shares throughout the year?

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 06:11 AM PST

    I have made sales and purchases of shares multiple times throughout the year. How can I measure my portfolio performance. I realised I can't just take a difference from current and starting value since my deposits would blow up my return and vice-versa if I made a withdrawal. In addition, each purchase of stock will have been held for different periods of time.

    submitted by /u/14051
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    Leaving my stable job to work at a start up during UK lockdown 2.0 and Brexit?

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 11:35 AM PST

    I have been offered a job at a startup with a 50% pay increase, more responsibility and opportunity to improve my career prospects. There is a 6 month probation period and the company is offering fewer benefits than I have now.

    My current job has counter offered with a 15-20% pay increase (will find out exact numbers tomorrow) on my current salary and a title change but no changes in responsibility. It has been made clear to me that it is unlikely I'll see any significant career progression at my current workplace with "just" a bachelors degree over the next few years.

    I currently work at a big company that is doing very well. The industry as a whole is pretty stable and will be for the foreseeable future. The start up has received a big investment but currently not making money.

    COVID and the new UK lockdown are factors playing on my mind, as well as Brexit just around the corner (changes in trade deals could have huge impact on the industry). I don't want to leave my stable job for something risky, but also don't want to be in the same position for the next few years with little change in pay and prospects.

    Other factors include:

    -The "start up" will mean I have will have to commute 2-3hrs a day, or relocate - after changes in the cost of rent, food, travel etc I'll be in the same position financially as I am now since I currently live with parents and commute to my current workplace.

    -The nature of my job means I cannot work from home.

    -I have been saving a large portion of my salary since starting my current job so I do have savings to fall back on.

    -I am in my early 20s and don't have major responsibilities like kids, dependants, mortgage etc. My partner is supportive of whatever decision I make.

    -There are wellbeing factors at play such as friends, hobbies, job satisfaction but I just want advice from a personal finance perspective

    Obviously no one can tell what the future holds but any advice or opinions would be helpful. I am very torn on what to do and don't have long to decide.

    TL;DR - risky startup but better career opportunities, stable workplace but dead end job

    Edit: formatting

    submitted by /u/dogbreath_
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    Pay debt before buying home any advice needed

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 02:27 PM PST

    Good evening. I'll be getting 10,000 from my grandmothers estate and was hoping that I could get extra insight into my situation. We are a family of 4, living in a 2 bedroom 1 bath We've planned on adding onto the home, but the area has become very unsafe within the past year. Gunshots aren't a rare occurrence anymore here. We don't have the best credit, and we have 18k debt on a car. My husband wants to use the money towards a down payment for a new house, and rent this one. We'd be using the VA Home loan, and hope to pair it with the Heroes down payment assistance.

    My thinking is to put it towards the car and pay off the car ASAP so we have a better DTI, and fix our credit a little better so we get the best rate we can. Also fix things around the home a little and rent it out for extra income. That being said it needs major work, especially with the foundation on the home and the two story detached garage/apartment. Our sub flooring is also rotten in some areas of the home. If anyone has any extra advice or can point out anything I may be overlooking please let me know. We aren't rich and my husband is medically retired from a TBI/PTSD , so it's not very easy to save money from just his income. I do courier work which isn't steady, but I can have my kids with me ,and am taking a few college courses.

    submitted by /u/Evilkombat
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    Do I need a 401k and an IRA?

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 04:05 PM PST

    My parent used to work in the financial industry and opened a Roth IRA for me. That account was funded over the years through birthdays, Christmas, etc. I don't fund that account. The rate of return on that account is 6.04%

    I also have a 401k through my employer that I fund through payroll deductions. That rate of return is 5.62%

    I met with my financial advisor who holds the IRA and to discuss my situation and was advised not to fund the IRA for now and continue funding the 401k.

    My parent has since retired and the IRA account fee is no longer waived and I have to pay $40 per year. I'd rather not pay $40/yr on an account that I'm not funding. I understand that fee is just eating away at the interest earned on that account. I also understand the fee will remain static, while the interest earned will grow.

    I also know I can't combine the two accounts as one is pre-tax earnings and the other not.

    Can (or should) I cancel the IRA and put those funds in an emergency account that earns interest without an account fee?

    submitted by /u/SwedishHeat
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    Please help with 401k

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 03:48 PM PST

    How should I spread the investments in these categories? I've changed it a few months back to the more safer routes, but a friend said i should have just spread them all out. I'm currently 35. Thanks in advance!
    https://i.imgur.com/gEIlMBE.jpg

    submitted by /u/bunbao1985
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    Where to park cash for a year?

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 01:10 PM PST

    I have approx $300k that I intend to use for buying a house. I had been planning to purchase around now, but house prices have skyrocketed in the past 2 months. I expect them to come down within a year or so. I'm willing to wait rather than over pay. (Prices are skyrocketing in my area because we're a suburb of a city that people are leaving due to COVID).

    So, in the meantime, where are some very good safe places to park the money, and still have it available if a bargain comes along? I don't want much risk, but prefer to earn something more than the almost-0% being offered by banks.

    submitted by /u/Edgar_Allen_Pho
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    Consolidation loan advice needed

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 12:42 PM PST

    I'm 28 and I'm currently working as a customer service rep at a bank. I make $14 so after taxes I only bring home about $26K. I got myself in some credit card debt around $6k. So not too bad, but it's definitely hurting my credit and the interest is adding up quickly. My credit isn't great, I probably have around a 685. I was approved for a loan for $6900 with an interest rate of 15% where as I am being charged 20.99% on my credit card. I know the interest rate is still shit, but I'm hoping I can pay it for a little while and maybe get a refinance offer in a year or so?

    submitted by /u/sparklingicekiwistra
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    30-Day Challenge #11: Audit your insurance coverage! (November, 2020)

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 05:00 AM PST

    30-day challenges

    We are pleased to continue our 30-day challenge series. Past challenges can be found here.

    This month's 30-day challenge is to Audit your insurance coverage! How long has it been since you examined your coverage or gotten a quote from another company to look for cheaper insurance? As your life evolves, it's important to make sure you update your insurance coverage as well. This is also a good way to save some money if you can find a better deal for insurance elsewhere or if you find yourself overinsured in some specific area.

    Why insurance?

    Insurance is an approach to handle the problem of risk. Most likely, during your life, one or more of these things will happen: you will be in a vehicle accident, you or someone close to you will experience serious illness or injury, or you will lose your job. Positive events have associated risk as well: ask anyone who has had a child, puppy, house, or marriage.

    You can choose to retain each of those risks: decide that if the bad thing happens, you can afford to pay for it, to self-insure. For example, if you lose a laptop, you can buy another one. You can also reduce the risk, say, by not driving on icy streets or by having chains on your tires. The other ways to deal with risk are to avoid it (don't buy a puppy) or transfer it (insurance!).

    Most of us don't think about risk until the bad thing happens. We are in a vehicle crash with an expensive car, someone is injured, and only then it dawns on us that we might be underinsured.

    For many major risks, most people share the risk with an insurance company through various insurance products. If you own a vehicle, most likely you will be required by your state to have liability coverage (personal injuries and property damage caused by you). If you have a mortgage, your mortgage holder will require you to have homeowners insurance and some landlords will require renters insurance. Other types of insurance are optional, but may be desirable if available, for example, disability insurance.

    Audit your insurance coverage

    Take a minute to think about what insurance coverage you currently have, whether you may be paying too much, and whether your coverage limits are appropriate:

    • Car Insurance
    • Health / Vision / Dental Insurance
    • Life Insurance
    • Homeowners / Renters Insurance
    • Jewelry Insurance

    Although insurance is an important financial tool to protect you against emergencies, it can also be a major drain on your budget. Insurance agents often use the fact that some insurance is important to make you feel that the more insurance you have, the better off you are.

    It's wise to only insure what you need to insure. What do you need to insure? Anything that you could not easily afford to replace with your cash savings or where the loss would significantly set you back financially. In the next 30 days, review not only the types of insurance you have, but the level of coverage you have in each type. Here are some ideas for various types of insurance:

    Car Insurance

    Assess all the types of coverage you have on your car. See the wiki article on car insurance for more details and ways to save money. For example, if you drive less than 10,000 miles per year, call your insurance company and see if they provide a low-mileage discount.

    Liability insurance is required by law if you drive and is very important: Would you be able to pay out a $300,000 lawsuit if you injure someone in a car accident? Liability insurance is not a great place to skimp.

    Coverages for "uninsured motorists" (an uninsured or underinsured driver injures you or your passengers) and "medical payments" (you or your passengers are injured in an auto accident) are also worth having. They are less expensive than liability coverage and the irresponsibility of others is a major risk.

    Also consider whether your "collision" and "comprehensive" deductibles coverage is appropriate or necessary, especially if you have an older car or significant savings. Eliminating or reducing these types of coverage can reduce your insurance bill, but you'll be left on the hook to replace or repair your own car if you (or mother nature) damage it.

    Finally, when you see car insurance advertisements selling you "better car replacement" or "one model year newer" insurance, realize that this is a great deal for the insurer and not as great for their customers. Buying these policies mean that you're paying for a piece of a newer car every single month even though the odds of taking advantage of these policies are relatively low.

    Health / Vision / Dental Insurance

    In the U.S., some form of catastrophic health insurance is vital for nearly everyone, as a week in an intensive care unit is enough to bankrupt all but the wealthiest. However, consider your expected use of healthcare services. If you are young and healthy, you may not need to fork over the extra dough for a Gold plan with lots of coverage. See the wiki article on health insurance for more details.

    Life Insurance

    Remember the principle of insurance? "Only insure what you couldn't afford to lose." If you have children or a spouse that would be unable to maintain their standard of living without your income, then you may need to insure your earning ability. That means you take out a term life insurance policy that pays your spouse and/or dependents in the event that you die and can no longer earn money to provide for them. However, if you don't have dependents or if your spouse can earn enough money on their own to provide for themselves, you might not need life insurance at all.

    It's also important for you to understand that there are two basic kinds of life insurance: term life insurance and permanent life insurance (like whole life or universal life). With term life insurance, you pay to cover your loved ones from the risk of your death. With whole life insurance, a portion of your cost goes to coverage, but it also has a cash value component that grows over time similar to an investment account.

    While there may be some exceptions for the very wealthy, term life insurance tends to be the best choice for the vast majority of individuals.

    Read our wiki article on life insurance for a deeper discussion.

    Homeowners / Renters Insurance

    Insurance on your residence is important for almost everyone who owns or rents a home. Owning a house without insurance could be disastrous if it burnt down, because you likely have a mortgage on it and probably don't have $250k cash to replace it. However, it may be worth checking how large your deductible is. If it's only $1,500, you might be able to afford more than that in an emergency. If appropriate, you can increase your deductible to reduce your costs. Note that homeowners deductibles are per incident, though. See the wiki article on homeowners insurance for more details.

    Renters insurance policies also tend to be very cheap (roughly $15 per month for $30,000 of property coverage and $100,000 of liability coverage).

    Finally, make sure you have an up-to-date inventory of your property so any claims will be easier to make. An easy way to do this is taking a video on your phone as you walk through your home, naming everything as you walk through. Note the make and models of anything expensive like electronics. (Make an offsite or cloud copy of the video too!)

    Jewelry Insurance

    Most single-issue insurance policies tend to be poor deals for consumers. Opinions vary on jewelry insurance, but the default assumption of most people is to carry insurance on an engagement ring is more a product of the jewelry marketing machine than actual need. A few factors make jewelry insurance less necessary than other types of insurance:

    • Your homeowners or renters insurance may already cover jewelry up to a certain value. Check!
    • You should not even be buying jewelry that you couldn't afford to replace with cash.
    • Most jewelry insurance does not cover accidental loss or misplacement. Only theft or damage.
    • Consider your (and your SO's) sentimental attachment to the piece. If your wife's engagement ring were stolen or lost, could you replace it with cash savings? Would you have a conversation about the importance of replacing it identically or go for a less expensive piece?

    Another way to save money

    One thing to consider when reviewing your coverage is that sometimes companies offer discounts for having multiple accounts with them (e.g., a multi-policy discount or "bundling"). When you call your insurance company, ask them about these discounts. For some insurers like USAA, you can even get a discount for adding non-insurance accounts like a savings account.

    A note on emergency funds

    Following "How to handle $", an emergency fund of cash equal to 3 to 6 months' worth of routine expenses is recommended. If you have no collision coverage on your car and rely on it to get to work, and/or a very high deductible on your home insurance ($10k), seriously consider the size of your emergency fund, and whether it is enough to get you through a "double-whammy" such as job loss and a car accident at the same time.

    Notes on other types of insurance

    The bare minimum for most people is car insurance (if they drive), health insurance, term life insurance (if others depend on their income), and homeowners/renters insurance. However, there are several additional types of insurance that some people may want to consider. In particular:

    Challenge success criteria

    You've successfully completed this challenge once you've done two or more of the following things:

    • Reviewed the coverage limits on each of your policies and read the associated wiki page. (Making changes is up to you and not something you should do without doing more research and reading. This challenge is only about reviewing your insurance.)
    • Read more about a type of insurance that you don't currently have.
    • Created an up-to-date home inventory of your belongings.
    • Requested a quote from a different insurance company or inquired about potential discounts from your current insurance company.
    • Read the policy document for at least one of your insurance policies (you should know which "perils" the insurance company covers and which are excluded).

     

    Disclaimer: This post is a prompt to review your insurance coverage. Similar to the reddit user agreement, we take no responsibility for any decisions you make based on something you read on reddit.

    submitted by /u/IndexBot
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    Accountant messed up, IRS letter

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 07:52 PM PST

    Background: My wife and I used a new accountant recommended by a friend last year. My wife worked as a contractor and I worked as a W-2.

    The mistake: The accountant put a number in line 10 form 1040 (for example, let's say she put $5000 dollars), didn't fill out form 8995, and didn't tell us WHY she put in that amount (that number literally doesn't exist anywhere else). We got a letter from the IRS asking us to fill out form 8995 explaining the letter but I just Googled the form and apparently it's for business owners (which applies to neither of us).

    What options can I take here? Anyone else get a similar letter?

    Thank you,

    submitted by /u/idnonuffin
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    Backdoor Roth – made 12 cents of interest in the IRA before converting

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 10:35 AM PST

    I'm doing my first backdoor Roth conversion on Vanguard. I opened an IRA, funded $6000, and waited for it to resolve my bank account info. A few weeks later, I went in to convert it to a Roth, but the balance is now $6000.12.

    Do I need to worry about that small gain in the IRA account? Should I include that in the conversion to the Roth, or leave it in the IRA? Can I give it back? 😅

    submitted by /u/dhg
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    Is saving $50-$100/mo on a phone bill worth the upfront cost?

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 07:36 PM PST

    Looking at switching from Verizon to AT&T. I have four lines, myself, husband, my dad's iPad, and my dads flip phone. I currently pay $300/mo with Unlimited data and insurance on everything with Verizon. My phone is the only one NOT paid off, it is $47/mo.

    We were quoted around $200-210 before taxes at AT&T with Unlimited, all brand new paid off phones, keeping my dads iPad, and his flip phone, The kicker is, I have to pay off my phone to switch which is $670. Not only pay off my phone, but also pay sales tax on me and my husband's new phones ($130), and new cases and such.

    We are looking at around $900 total out of pocket to switch. Granted, I have to pay off my phone eventually anyway. Without my device payment, my bill is sitting at $250ish with Verizon. So "technically" we are saving around $50/mo by switching, however taking into account my device payment I'm saving $100/mo off the rip.

    As a side note, I'm not willing to take my dad off the plan, he's paid for me my whole life...this is the least I can do for him. I would consider disconnecting his iPad though, we would just have to teach him about WiFi.

    Is it worth the upfront cost to switch?

    submitted by /u/throwawaycuzimpussy
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    Amazon Credit Card. What's the catch?

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 05:16 PM PST

    I am debating getting the Amazon credit card, between the $150 gift card I get just for signing up and 5% cash back on Amazon and Whole Foods 2 spots where I shop it seems worth it. So what is the catch and what has your experience been like. Something seems too good to be true. Thanks!

    submitted by /u/gweak67
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    Is it fiscally irresponsible to move into a new apartment and increase my rent by ~50%?

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 07:17 PM PST

    Hey everyone. I'm currently renting a 450 sqft bare bones efficiency for $800/month, all bills, excluding internet, included. I'm thinking about getting a new apartment somewhere at the $1100-1300 price point and about 700 sqft or so.

    My financials right now:

    -$6000/month net

    -$10000 in savings

    -$14000 in student loans (covid forbearance)

    No other debts/liabilities currently. I really would just like to get a place with laundry machines and a dishwasher in the unit. The issue here is that I previously made a lot less money, and I have major qualms about increasing my expenses so much when its not an urgent necessity. I will say that I believe it would be a major improvement in QoL and my general mental health. Let me know if I need to expand or give any more context to this. Thanks for reading.

    submitted by /u/DoctorRealistic
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    How to better career: keep working or go back to school?

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 09:54 AM PST

    Recently, I made a career change to IT. I currently work a help desk job, but I only make 14 an hour and the management is really petty and it seems there is no way up in this company. I tried applying to other IT jobs, but I always get rejected even though I have CompTIA A+, Net+, Sec+ and Microsoft Admin Associate and Expert certifications. I have a prior degree in kinesiology, but I could not find any jobs with that degree even though I graduated top of my class.

    My current dilemma I'm debating between:

    1. Going to WGU for Information Technology: I could go online, keep my job, I can accelerate classes and finish in a year to year and a half, and tuition would be 8000 to 11000. The negatives are it may not be as good as a state school, and I would still have to network myself.
    2. Just get more certifications and work: My dad says I should just do certs and work though. But, on some reddit posts, I've seen users say that while you can get a job without a degree it is harder because a. HR filters you out b. it lessens opportunity because you're competing against people with a degree c. It limits your pay ceiling and opportunity to get promotions
    3. Go to a brand name in person college which may or may not have better networking. Considering University of Georgia, but the tuition would be 25000, I would have to quit my job and move on campus which would be another 20-25k, drive to class everyday and have extra expenses with that. The jobs I receive may be better, but my dad said this would be a poor idea because the schools make it seem like you will get get good jobs. However, many of them fudge their employment numbers, and no job is guaranteed even though they make it out like you are guaranteed a 60k job after graduating. I do kinda want to do this just so I can leave my monotonous, hopeless job though, but I feel this would be a poor financial decision. Even though I have the money to pay for it, it would take out most of my savings.
    4. Go get a masters at WGU: more expensive, time consuming, may make myself overqualified. I feel this is the worst option because I don't have enough experience to make a masters worthy of completing and the classes are more theoretical. However, a lot of people on reddit seem to think getting 2 bachelors is pointless.

    Which route do you all think is best?

    submitted by /u/ElectricOne55
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    Different APR, but same monthly payment?

    Posted: 01 Nov 2020 03:23 PM PST

    I'm looking at buying a house/condo and shopping around for financing, I noticed that advertised APR at bankrate.com is 2.565% and the payment is $1897/month. Yet, my bank offered me 2.679% APR and the payment is the same $1897/month. This is for a 20% down on a $600k home so $480k in loans. Bankrate.com lists 0.662 points, and my bank lists amount $9062 (not points). This is on 30-year fixed.

    I thought the APR includes all fees so the same APR should yield the same monthly payment, and the same amount of my payment goes to principal.

    Now I'm not sure. Does anyone know how this works?

    I must be missing something.

    submitted by /u/Gears6
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