Personal Finance I was fired over the phone by my boss. I filled for unemployment and they are saying I quit. I have email and text proving otherwise. Now they say they want me to come back to work. |
- I was fired over the phone by my boss. I filled for unemployment and they are saying I quit. I have email and text proving otherwise. Now they say they want me to come back to work.
- [Really dumb question warning] What does it mean that an employer will 'Match up to 6% of my 401k contribution' ?
- Teenager with $20k saved, what should my plan of action be?
- Always check your paystubs
- Is it legitimate for a housing rental application to ask for mother’s maiden name and bank account number for background/credit check purposes?
- What documents do you have in case you are injured or die? Where do you keep them?
- I expensed a laptop for work, got my money from work, then a week later the laptop price dropped by $100. The store will let me do a post-purchase price match.
- dad claimed unemployment even though he quit 6 months ago due to cancer
- 30 year old with $60k in savings. Thinking about quitting my job to travel in my car for the next 6 months without a job offer lined up.
- Should I commute the next city over for the $21/hr job or stay in my city for the $18/hr job
- 75k saved by 25. How to diversity and invest?
- Out of work bartender whose employer has continued paying me only $794/month, rendering me ineligible for unemployment. Advice?
- If you have a Citi credit card, beware of an attempted scam regarding fraudulent charges.
- Need help with dad's estate
- Need advise. 587 credit score, no collections, just high utilization and 98% payment history.
- Why I'm glad I invested in January
- Why would anyone ever go into an actively managed fund with front loads, back loads, or high ERs when passive investments usually do better?
- A hospital bill I unaware of was sent to collections -- will this hurt my credit score?
- Best intro to stocks?
- Is getting a credit card for my kids to build credit a good idea?
- Is there any point to reimburse myself from HSA account?
- What percentage of Vanguard's assets are from institutional investors?
- Refinancing my auto loan with an APR drop from 8.22% to 3.99% BUT....
| Posted: 03 Jun 2020 04:41 PM PDT I want to know if them saying I am eligible to be rehired because they don't want to me to get unemployment will stop me from getting unemployment or will I have to return to work for them? They have been giving me intentionally bad work with long drives and low pay since I work on commission. They give me small leads with 4 hours a day of driving and no one could make money doing this. Can them saying they are willing to rehire me after firing me stop be from getting unemployment? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 03 Jun 2020 07:53 AM PDT This is my first job with a 401k benefit. I am just out of college. To make sure I'm not too out of the ballpark, contributing 6% of my income to my 401k means, ya know, taking 6% of my income and putting it in my 401k, is that right..? What I'm curious about is what 'matching my 401k contribution up to 6%' means. Does this mean that if I choose to contribute 6% of my salary to my 401k, my employer will also put that same 6% into my account from their own pockets? So, the 6% contribution I make technically turns into a 6% from me + 6% from company pockets = 12% total put into my 401k? Edit : I'm 22M, salary is 63k. No college debt, living with parents right now (so no rent for me) and will move out after COVID goes away, and I have 11k saved up so far. I'll get my first paycheck for this job tomorrow. I'm not expecting any big purchases at the moment. Should I contribute more than 6%? I'm also hoping to max out my ROTH IRA as soon as I can. [link] [comments]  |
| Teenager with $20k saved, what should my plan of action be? Posted: 03 Jun 2020 10:18 AM PDT As the title says, I'm 18 years old, graduate high school tomorrow, and will be over $20k within 1 or 2 more paychecks. I'm really excited. I keep most of my money in savings with $2000 in checking. I started investing in January have about $8600 in stocks/REITs/ETFs. Im a bit reluctant to put more in though. The month before the market crash is probably the worst time to start investing but I have made about 4% YTD with $400 in yearly dividends. Income: 800-1000/week after tax (200-250 day job + 550-750 full time DoorDashing) Monthly expenses: -Car insurance (full coverage): $106/mo -Gas: ~$300/mo (tax deductible, I drive for DoorDash on the side) -Food: ~$60-75/mo -Phone: $75/mo ———————— Total: ~$550/mo Other expenses: -$1000 set aside for DoorDash taxes due July 15 -About $250 in upcoming car maintenance College Plans: I am going to college starting this fall and spent probably 30 hours researching the cheapest college for my degree (Speech-Language Pathology). I am enrolled in a fast-track program that will allow me to receive a Bachelors and a Masters degree in 5 years as long as I maintain a 3.0 GPA. The total projected cost of my degree after my scholarships is $12k/yr for 4 years of undergrad and $7k tuition per semester of grad school (4 semesters). I am very blessed to have grandparents who were willing to set up a college fund that should cover the full amount of my undergrad degree, give or take a couple thousand dollars. Since I am going to be attending a small town college it probably is not wise or realistic for me to drive for DoorDash while studying so my side income and gas expenses will go down. However, I do have a diploma now and I am currently applying to higher paying jobs during this summer. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!! Edit: Formatting [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Jun 2020 06:35 PM PDT I work for a company that has 2 locations. I would received 1 paycheque with all my hours combined into one. One week I worked 50 hours & thought my OT pay was gonna be nice and juicy. When I got my cheque it was surprisingly lower than expected. I looked at my stub and noticed I was 7 hours short. I asked my manager and she said finance made a mistake & would add 7 hours to my nezt paycheque. I asked to confirm those 7 hours would be 1.5x pay. Her answer was no. I didnt qualify for OT cuz I was split amongst 2 locations. Apparently this was a policy they've had with every employee who worked 2 locations. Then my uncle informed me that what they said was illegal as I had 1 pay stub. If both locations were paying me separately then I technically wouldn't be in OT. So I presented this information and when I told them they were breaking the law, they folded and paid me my OT. My coworkers who never spoke up were shocked as they missed years worth of OT. Moral of the story: always check your paystubs & don't be scared to ask questions. The finance department didn't make a mistake, they were trying to avoid paying what I earned. Then on the paid me 2 separate cheque's for the different locations. & I happily refused OT every time I was asked. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 03 Jun 2020 08:46 AM PDT Sorry if this is the wrong sub for this kind of question but as stated in the title me and my girlfriend are applying for a rental in NYC and the application seemed like it asked for a lot of sensitive information that wasn't necessarily normal. They asked for social security number and mother's maiden name for the background check, as well as account numbers in the general application. Seemed strange. They also only provide mail, email, and fax, for delivery of the application, but email seems like a bad idea given that that's not secure right? Thanks for any answers [link] [comments]  |
| What documents do you have in case you are injured or die? Where do you keep them? Posted: 03 Jun 2020 06:50 AM PDT I am looking to start seriously putting together an "in case of death" folder - mostly because I finally have assets and because the world is making me have an existential crisis. So far it seems that things that should be included are: a living will, will, financial account information and accessing funds as the beneficiary, funeral instructions, insurance policies, important documents (birth certificate, social security card, etc), tax returns, important passwords. My biggest issue is that while my mom (who is a permanent resident) is the beneficiary on all of my accounts, her English and grasp of the legal system / forms is not good enough to navigate things in the case of my death. I'm unmarried and have been living with my roommate for four years. Should I have a trusted friend that does speak english to be my executor? If you have a folder like this, where do you keep it? If I was married, I'd just keep it in the safe in the house but that doesn't seem as effective. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 03 Jun 2020 01:44 PM PDT I bought a $600 laptop at Best Buy for a new job I started that is remote due to covid. They said they would expense it for me. I already got my refund from the company, but I just checked Best Buy's website and the price is now $500. If I call Best Buy, they will give me that $100 back. Is this unethical? Could I get caught? Should I just not do anything? Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| dad claimed unemployment even though he quit 6 months ago due to cancer Posted: 03 Jun 2020 06:44 PM PDT from what I've read, you can apply for unemployment if your making under $504 gross (NYC) or were fired. my dad quit his job 6 months ago due to COVID. so he wouldn't qualify for unemployment. some of his friends are talking about how they're getting thousands from unemployment so he gave the guy all his info (for a fee of $500 will collect after my dad gets approved). the person makes it seem like everyone is guaranteed that extra 600 (even those working). do they know something I don't? can this backfire on my dad? (identity theft isn't an issue) LTDR; dad quit his job 6 months ago. dad is getting his friend to file on his behalf. can this backfire? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 03 Jun 2020 12:25 PM PDT So a little context, I'm a 30 year old person with almost $60k in savings (all of it in cash in my checking and money market accounts). I don't have any kids or debts, and I don't own any property. My current yearly income is $50k before tax and I spent $1k on average on rent and food. I have an advanced degree in STEM and I'm currently at a job where I have zero motivation to continue. I have been applying for jobs in the last month or so. I have gotten 2 interviews and a handful of phone calls, but nothing concrete yet. I envision it will be another 2-4 months before I can get a job offer and start working. I have been back at my work for a month now after the lockdown and have not been productive. It's a research based job so it's extra tough when your motivation is gone. I'm thinking about quitting my job and start traveling in the country in my car. I travel by car and will be camping the whole so the expenses will be low. I think I can get by with $500-700 per month on the road, depending on how much I drive and things I buy. I plan to keep renting my place ($700/month) so I have a place to come back to when I need a break because I don't plan being on the road full time. I also need a place to store all my stuff. Am I being stupid or it's a good time to take a break and clear the head? It's a tough decide mostly due to the current pandemic situation and I'd like to see what others have to say. Thanks in advance! [link] [comments]  |
| Should I commute the next city over for the $21/hr job or stay in my city for the $18/hr job Posted: 03 Jun 2020 10:54 AM PDT Job 1: "Senior" Level Recovery Specialist at a major bank. 17 mile commute from my apartment, almost entirely highway. $21/hr full time with standard banking benefits (6% 401k match, PTO, tuition reimbursement, etc) Job 2: Customer Service Specialist at a major contract research organization. 13 miles commute from my apartment, almost entirely highway. $18/hr full time with excellent health care (I have a few chronic conditions, but I'm under my parents insurance unfortunately next two years). Similar benefits as above job, just swap out employer match with an HSA account. Oh, and a gym. Current job: Tech support for a major electronic company. $13/hr full time. Company stock options and health insurance. Working from home full time. Debt: 50k between student loans, credit cards, and personal loan. Should I go with the higher paid position? EDIT: COMMUTE TIMES According to google maps: 1st: 24-35 minutes via interstate 2nd: 16-24 minutes via interstate [link] [comments]  |
| 75k saved by 25. How to diversity and invest? Posted: 03 Jun 2020 06:00 PM PDT Hi, I currently contribute 10% of my 65k ish income to a Tax Deferred Annuity account provided by my job. I also contribute to my retirement fund. I have minimal expenses and I want to invest my savings. However I am clueless about where to begin. I know that stashing money in a bank savings account is a waste of time. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 03 Jun 2020 12:31 PM PDT I am a bartender in Maryland who has been out of work for over 11 weeks due to covid. As a bartender, tips accounted for about 75% of my income. My employer was accepted for the Payroll Protection loan, and has continued paying me my very small base pay, totaling $794/month. (About 25% of what I was earning while working). My rent alone is $750/month, so I have been struggling immensely affording rent, utilities, food, and other bills and expenses. I applied for unemployment on April 1st, and received a letter that I was eligible for $286/week (not including the additional $600). Since the $286/week is more than what my employer is paying me, and substantially less than my usual income, I was hoping that I could receive partial unemployment. I filed my webcerts and made sure to note the small amount of income that I am currently receiving. After filing my webcerts, I was essentially denied and locked out of the system. The unemployment office has been unreachable. I've tried calling as much as 200 times per day, and always get a busy tone. I've also tried emailing to no avail. I'm sure my boss means well, but I'm getting kind of screwed here by him paying me, which I believe he may be required to do because of the Payroll Protection loan. I haven't confronted him about this because he is a loose cannon and I don't want it to backfire. Asking him to stop paying me could be percieved as quitting, which in itself could make me ineligible for unemployment. Additionally, I can't even get in touch with the unemployment office to reapply in the first place. I'm really at a loss here and don't have money to eat or pay my bills. Does anyone have any advice on what I can do? Any other resources or programs that I can get in touch with for help? [link] [comments]  |
| If you have a Citi credit card, beware of an attempted scam regarding fraudulent charges. Posted: 03 Jun 2020 07:34 AM PDT I woke up this morning to hundreds of email alerts regarding attempted charges on my card overnight, as well as a fraud alert text asking me to confirm one of the attempted charges. I tried to log into my account to see what was happening, but it was blocked due to the fraud attempt. This was all pretty normal as I had a similar experience a couple years back and this was very much like the procedure followed then. However, about a half hour later, I got a call from a 844 number. I didn't answer and let it go to voicemail, and what do you know? They're calling to verify a recent purchase attempt on my card and want me to call them back with some case number so they can verify my info. I have never received a call from them regarding fraud before, every notification says to contact them in the event of fraud and gives their 800 number that's available on the "Contact Us" area of their website. In fact they have ZERO 844 numbers on their entire list, and they have a lot of contact numbers for various types of business. So I look up the 844 number and, sure enough, it's been flagged previously for similar scam attempts where they will make the charge, call you to "verify your information and secure your account" and, presumably, proceed to collect all the information necessary for them to call the REAL Citi, hijack your account and authorize their fraudulent transactions. After that I wasted no time calling the actual Citi number from their app/site, getting the expected automated verification steps rather than some person picking up instantly, and was able to confirm the fraud and get that card/number cancelled and get a new one shipped out. My online account validated that everything was back in order, I had a new account number, and the new card was on the way. I hadn't used my actual card or number in a week (most of my purchases from that card use a virtual account number, PayPal, etc.) but it's possible they had been sitting on it for a while before making this attempt, as the last time I had made a purchase from somewhere I didn't normally go was over 2 months ago. Also I'm not sure if they might be trying this with other cards/companies, my Citi card was the only one that had an attempt, all the others are normal so far. So be careful, and remember to monitor your accounts regularly even if it's been a while since you've used it or made any unusual purchases. And DO NOT answer random phone numbers, and if you do without thinking, don't give them information if they say they are calling to confirm one of your accounts; instead call back on the official number so you don't unknowingly give your information to a fraudster that will allow them to steal your account. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 03 Jun 2020 05:48 PM PDT Hey people of reddit, So recently my dad passed away and he left me with a home. I just turned 18 and I'm broke. I don't have a job and bills will start to come up. I don't have family around me, everyone disowned each other after my pops passed. What's the next step. I barely know how to cook and don know how to do shit tbh. I'm alone and I dont know the next steps to life. [link] [comments]  |
| Need advise. 587 credit score, no collections, just high utilization and 98% payment history. Posted: 03 Jun 2020 06:55 PM PDT I need advise. I used to have an awesome credit score a few years back - but it's gone downhill after some overspending and bad decisions. It keeps me up at night and I need and want to finally take control. I'm currently at a 587 based on credit karma. I have nothing in collections; my credit card utilization is high which is what I think is hurting me the most. I have/had 2 Bank of America credit cards which were closed by BOA because I was late on 2/3 payments (my assumption). One has a balance of 14k and the other 7k. Those are also their respective limits so I am at 100% utilization. They've had around these balances for the last 2 years with me typically making a minimum to a bit higher than minimum payment on them ($500-1000 each month). But I always did pay on time. I felt like I couldn't get anywhere because the interest rate was so high so I never made a huge dent in the payment. The closing of accounts made my credit age decrease significantly which was super annoying because I had the one credit card for 11 years. Both cards were always always in good standing and paid on time (just not in full) except for the last few months (January-March). I will admit I intentionally didn't pay because I was in fear of losing my job because of COVID and I wanted to reserve as much as possible in the bank. Now I finally put a huge chunk of payment to them. $8645 to the 14k one and $1500 to the 7k one. I also have a Nordstrom card with $1802 balance ($3500 limit) which I plan to pay $1000 off next week, and a Crate and Barrel credit card with no balance. 2 closed credit cards, 2 open (Nord and C&B are open). I need to raise my credit score not just to raise it in general, but because I need to buy a new (used) car soon. I owe nothing on my current car. I have a very expensive German car that is too pricey to maintain and I want to get rid of it (took it in for service last week and they basically told me I need to do all these things to it totaling to $4000). I will probably trade this one in for about $10K, and I am looking at a car for about $26k (hoping to negotiate down to $23-24) so looking for a $15K loan. I can put about $3000 down at the moment, but would rather not put more than $2000. Will the payments I just made on my BoA accounts help improve my score? Or will they need to be completely paid off? I ask because since they're closed...I no longer have those limits as part of my revolving credit and my utilization is a lot more than credit limits. Here are my stats based off credit karma (I know some people say it's just average and not to really rely on it): -98% positive payment history -50% credit card utilization ($1800/$3500 on Nordstrom) but actually more with the Bank of America accounts -0 derogatory remarks -3 years credit age -13 total accounts** -1 hard inquiry -***for the 13 accounts - 7 are open (2 credit cards, 1 student loan, 4 small personal loans - again bad decision that I am working towards paying off and have exceptional payment history on). 6 are closed (2 Bank of America credit cards closed because I guess I didn't make payments, and 4 other credit cards closed because I simply did not use them for years - I also didn't know that this happened - that if you didn't use it, you lost it) I make about $4K a month I am just going to keep paying as much as I can off on the cards with reserving whatever is needed for my fixed monthly expenses. I'll be living extremely frugally. I am part of 2 credit unions. If my credit score were to stay the same, and I applied for an auto loan with them today, would I likely be denied? Or approved with a very high interest rate? I'm willing to wait a month to apply to see if my credit score gets better with my recent Bank of America credit card payments and next weeks payment to Nordstrom, but I just want to know what kind of journey I'm looking at. Thankfully I'm working from home due to COVID so I'm not driving to the office every day, but with a the state I live in opening up, I could be back to driving daily soon. I am so embarrassed and ashamed after writing this. I feel like I made so many stupid mistakes and it's making me feel like such a failure. But I want to make things better and I need to. I would appreciate any advice or insight you can offer. [link] [comments]  |
| Why I'm glad I invested in January Posted: 03 Jun 2020 06:54 PM PDT As I'm sure everyone's notice, the market has... fluctuated recently. My wife and I had some extra money at the end of 2019 and decided to contribute the full $6,000 to her Roth IRA and buy index funds as soon as we could this January. While we initially saw a pretty sharp increase (maybe ~10%ish), by the time the market hit it's low in April, that $6,000 was worth something more like $4,200... So why would I be glad I invested when I did? Because we won't retire for 40 or so years. Over 40 years, assuming a modest 6% average gain, that $6,000 will be worth closer to ~$61,700. That's a 10x return! It would definitely be worth more if I timed the market perfectly, but if I could time the market perfectly I would be the richest man in the world. So keep the long-term in mind. Don't check your Vanguard, Mint, or whatever you use; it only leads to unnecessary anxiety. Even if you buy at the worst time possible, it's always better to just ride it out. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 03 Jun 2020 12:45 PM PDT Do advisors only recommend them because they get their sweet commission from them? [link] [comments]  |
| A hospital bill I unaware of was sent to collections -- will this hurt my credit score? Posted: 03 Jun 2020 01:16 AM PDT After a trip to the emergency room about 9 months ago, I paid out of pocket. Or at least, I thought I did. It turns out that there was an additional bill, which I never received (for about $800 if that matters), and which has now been sent to collections. I plan to pay it right away. Will this have any repercussion for my credit score? If so, is there anything I can do to mitigate it? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 03 Jun 2020 07:59 PM PDT What's the best way to begin to invest. Fresh out of college with some income saved up. What are the best apps, sites, services etc to use as an introduction to the stock market? [link] [comments]  |
| Is getting a credit card for my kids to build credit a good idea? Posted: 03 Jun 2020 05:37 PM PDT I won't let them use it or anything. It would be just so I can build credit so they start off with a good score. At what age should I do it or is it not advised? [link] [comments]  |
| Is there any point to reimburse myself from HSA account? Posted: 03 Jun 2020 07:47 PM PDT Since money in HSA accounts can be invested, is there any point in withdrawing money? All I would do is invest the money through a brokerage account anyways. [link] [comments]  |
| What percentage of Vanguard's assets are from institutional investors? Posted: 03 Jun 2020 07:42 PM PDT Not sure if this is the right sub or if there is a better sub for this. Vanguard has about $6 trillion in assets; does anyone know how much of this is from institutional investors? And how much of it is from retail investors (people)? [link] [comments]  |
| Refinancing my auto loan with an APR drop from 8.22% to 3.99% BUT.... Posted: 03 Jun 2020 07:38 PM PDT There's a processing fee of $400. Is this a no brainer? Auto loan is $11,062 Life of the loan is 60 months. Monthly Payments remain the same but I have half the interest rate. Saving about $35-$40 a month. Do I pull the plunge? [link] [comments]  |
| You are subscribed to email updates from Personal Finance. To stop receiving these emails, you may unsubscribe now. | Email delivery powered by Google |
| Google, 1600 Amphitheatre Parkway, Mountain View, CA 94043, United States | |
No comments:
Post a Comment