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    Wednesday, April 29, 2020

    Personal Finance Wells Fargo is refusing to return $1,100 in fraudulent charges.

    Personal Finance Wells Fargo is refusing to return $1,100 in fraudulent charges.


    Wells Fargo is refusing to return $1,100 in fraudulent charges.

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 09:30 AM PDT

    Hi everyone. I've been a long time follower of pf and have offered advice on this sub and now I'm asking for help.

    Back in January I noticed three fraudulent charges from a Home Depot in NYC. Two of the charges for the same amount one for a higher amount. I check my online banking every 2-3 days so I spotted it quickly. I immediately call and ask for the charges to be removed. The call center employee says sure no problem. I've had this happen once before and they took care of it no problem. So I expected the same service this time. Fucking silly me.

    After a couple weeks I see one of the charges has been removed and the other two are still there. I call up and say hey you guys got the one charge can you please take the other two away.. they say sure sorry we missed it.

    Couple more weeks go by and now ALL THREE CHARGES ARE STILL ON THE CARD. The original one they refunded has been re-refunded and is now on my card again. I call and say hey what's going on, they state: "As the card was in your possession at the time of purchase, there is no fraud and these are valid purchases." I was dumbfounded. I immediately stated this is 2020, it's called a scanner. They could have ordered it online, they could have had an inside guy working the register there and the criminal reads my credit card number to him. It could have been stolen from an online site I used, there are so many ways to use a credit card without the number.

    I escalated to their special claims department who agreed with me when I discussed all the ways this could happen. Couple weeks go by and I still see the charges. I call up and get the same idiotic response of "The card was in your possession, it was legal purchases." Im livid and waiting for a call back from the claim specialist that oversaw my case.

    If that goes bad, what can I do? Where do I escalate after already escalating? I already know for sure I'm closing my account with them but $1,100 is a good amount of money that I'd rather not piss away.

    Any and all help is appreciated. Thank you.

    EDIT/UPDATE: Thank you all for the input. I'm going to file a police report and file with the CFPB as well. I spoke with another rep today who is going to escalate it to another fraud specialist. This will be the third time now. I'll be getting the police and CFPB report done in the meantime.

    submitted by /u/Tyler_durden_RIP
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    Airbnb refunded us over 2k and now wants their money back

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 07:25 AM PDT

    It's a long story, but due to covid we cut our trip short and flew back home. For nearly a week we tried to cancel our reservation, but the app gave us an error. Eventually we did get a full refund but now Airbnb has contacted us over a month later asking for their money back. I'm guessing the host didn't get their payment and initiated support again. Is there any angle that we have here or is our only choice to pay it back in full? Part of us feels Airbnb should correct their mistake and pay the host themselves but wanted to get some unbiased opinions

    Update: Looks like our host was rightfully paid for all services in conjunction with us getting a full refund. So Airbnb is basically without cash and needs the money one way or another. Both parties thought it was resolved a month ago, but Airbnb reopened it - that's why I posted this wondering if the elapsed time means anything. It was concluded on the 4th comment that when boiled down, it doesn't, so no need harp on ethics already stated. Thanks

    submitted by /u/JESUS_IS_MY_GPS
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    Have ~12 months of paid self-improvement time. Best investment for future career?

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 04:13 AM PDT

    Hey all. I'm about to go on a ~12 month deployment overseas. The place I'm going won't have a particularly high op-tempo, and after I come back I'm getting out of the military. I'd like to spend the 12 months I'm there focusing as much on civilian professional development as possible to give me a solid civilian income once I transition out of the military.

    Given ~6 hours a day for a year, what's the best bang-for-your-buck skill to develop to make money? Some other considerations:

    I've worked sales, and while I didn't hate it I also don't know if I could make a career out of a job that stressful. If there are sales that don't require 80 hour workweeks that's fine, if not, I'd rather look elsewhere. I was good at it, though.

    I've also worked in the medical field. I'm a medic in the army and I've worked as a technician in the emergency department outside of the military.

    I have a Bachelor's degree in financial economics. I got it seven years ago and I've never done anything with it.

    I'd love to be able to work remotely for a company and live in a low COL area.

    submitted by /u/bl0rp0e
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    People says 401k contribution should be around 15%~20%... Does that include Employer's contribution?

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 09:54 AM PDT

    Hello,

    I've been reading various posts and threads to see what numbers would be good. I was thinking about going 20% and even beyond, but i wasn't too sure if such percentage is including the company's contribution.

    Also, is there a calculator or some sort to display how much i will have earned at 60 depending on how much i contribute? Just fyi, i am thinking about going with the standard Roth Vanguard one.

    Edit: Sorry, I am 26 years old at the moment living in California. Not sure if this matters but I think I will likely move out of California once i retire (or few years prior to it; Even wondering getting a job where State-tax is free during last pre-retirement years like Mr. Tom Brady)

    Edit2: And also Trump i think

    Thank you all for your helps. Remember you all are beautiful.

    submitted by /u/SpiderPoopyMan
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    Salary Negotiation when I don't have the exact education and experience but they still called me

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 09:07 AM PDT

    Hi so I applied as a team lead for an ecommerce company in Europe. Its for a specific market of 3 Eastern countries and I speak all 3 languages which is what probably attracted them. I have public affairs education and experience and no ecommerce (they require business education and several years and I've had my own small business for the past 10 years), yet they still called me, so we had a first round phone interview today. I think the interview went fine, sometimes I caught myself being wordy, but even then I usually get a positive response because people say i sound so refreshingly positive and genuine that they like me.

    He asked me to disclose salary expectations on the phone or later to the recruiter. I see most salaries being around 60-70k, but I'm leaning toward 55k as I feel i have quite a bit to learn. Is decreasing salary due to lack of experience expected? I'd honestly be super happy with 60k, but I'm afraid i come off greedy with a lack of self reflection. I'm a 29 yo female.

    Edit: sorry if it's misleading I speak all three languages but 2 are quite similar (Czech and Slovak), so technically it's like 2 languages needed. I speak Hungarian on top of that and German intermediate (they want at least basic so there I'm also at advantage)

    Thoughts?

    submitted by /u/meowwoem_
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    My father and uncle are trying to use me to outsmart the government

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 05:33 PM PDT

    My uncle isn't an accountant he just files the family taxes. He says I didn't qualify for unemployment benefits because I was unemployed for a few months even before COVID. He wants me to transfer the $20K (all I have) in my Chase account over to my father's account, in an attempt to convince them that I deserve unemployment based on having no money. Not easily persuaded, I asked him if I could just transfer the money to my other account at TD. He says no, because they can identify me by my social security, but I don't believe my social security is tied to my TD checking account. Do I trust my father and move all the money over to his account? Something doesn't feel right by me.

    submitted by /u/MikeyNYC1
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    Should we refinance?

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 07:26 PM PDT

    We are currently a little over two years into our home loan, we owe 233k on it @ 3.75%. With interest rates so low we are considering refinancing to a 15 year loan and have seen rates at 2.5%. Our current payment is $1460 but we send an extra $200 each month. If we were to refinance I estimate our new payment with taxes and insurance would bump to a bit over $1800.

    Is it a good idea to refinance? Or is it better to send more money every month to have more flexibility if something were too happen with or jobs? We currently make 117,000 a year and have no debt besides our mortgage.

    submitted by /u/Realmadcr9
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    Bank committed to a traditional, 30-year mortgage at 2.75% interest. That’s good, right?

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 12:24 AM PDT

    I know the economy is hurting, but just have no other frame of reference.

    submitted by /u/johnkeng
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    Can we afford this house?

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 05:13 AM PDT

    My wife and I make a combined $145k.

    The house is $445k and we are putting 10% down. After the down payment and closing costs we will have about $30k left for emergencies/home improvements and repairs.

    The house is from the 1960s but has been remodeled in the early 2010s. I'm not much of a handyman, and fortunately don't see anything needing substantial repair for the house. I anticipate house costs to be:

    • Mortgage: 1825
    • Taxes: 400
    • Insurance: 75
    • Maintenance: 1% * 445k / 12 ~ 400
    • Utilities: 500

    Total comes out to 3200/month

    After taxes we bring in $8.2k/month.

    Expenses are:

    • Student Loans: $2000 ($180k total... my career would take off in about 3 more years and our combined income should grow to at least $250k). Consolidated at 5.5%. At this rate it should be paid off in about 9 years.
    • Car Payments: $1100 (New Civic and CRV purchased 1 year ago, that will be paid off in 3 more years. We plan to keep these cars for 10-15 years. Interest rates are 1% and 2% respectively)
    • Life Insurance: $100
    • Things for Kids: $250/month (529, toys, diapers)

    This leaves us with $1500/month for groceries, vacation, fun money, and other misc expenses.

    I'm worried about house prices in general due to the current pandemic but houses are still getting snatched up quickly in my area. We're planning on staying in the area for the next 3 to 5 years. We have a nice apartment now but rent is expensive at $2k/month.

    While things may feel tight right now with the house, I'm thinking that as my income grows substantially in 3 years, we will grow into the house and will also be able to pay off the student loans very quickly.

    submitted by /u/radonthrow
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    16 year old with job

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 07:32 PM PDT

    Hi I have some questions with the covid 19 epidemic happening I saw that tax payers would be getting 1000$ from their taxes. However I have turned 16 in March and got a job the same month and was wondering since my parents have not filed for tax return for the 2019 year could I claim independent this year and have them claim me dependent next year thanks for your answer.

    submitted by /u/obamalover1969
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    For those of us whose parents lost a job, or faced a significant financial setback growing up -- how did it affect your financial habits in life?

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 05:01 AM PDT

    I'm hoping this is ok to post here.

    As the title states, my family and I experienced a significant change to our finances while I was growing up.

    My mom was (and still is) a teacher. Currently she makes around 90k, but it was much less than that earlier in her career. My dad was an engineer, and partner at his firm. He made about 100-130k per year for close to 15 years, which included bonuses for any success the firm had.

    That all changed about 10 years ago, when my dad got bought out & laid off. He got a years pay of severance, but never landed back in his field and spent 3.5 years out of work.

    Now he's been working again, in retail, making a fraction of what he used to. He seems to be happy though.

    Seeing this kind of loss/change in my life scarred me for years. In my teens/young 20s I was afraid of working & having a job. It gave me a lot of anxiety, as did spending any money I had.

    I'm now in a much better place than I used to be. I learned a lot from my dad as he told me what he did to save & weather the storm he went thru.

    Any other similar experiences?

    submitted by /u/Art_vandelay____
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    I’m the owner of a stock I can’t access from a transfer company that refuses to give me access. What do I do?

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 11:05 AM PDT

    First time using this thread since I've exhausted all other options. I have stock in Coca Cola that is online through Computershare, the worst company I've ever encountered. A few months ago, I forgot my password so I clicked to get a new password. After doing that and filling out my security questions, they said they would send me the verification code via postal mail. They never sent it. Then, a month ago, I called again and demanded the code. They said they would resend it and confirmed it was mailed out on April 2. I still don't have it. They refuse to overnight a new code, refuse to connect me with a supervisor, and refuse to do anything that would allow me to access my own account. Their only offer was to send a new verification code by standard USPS mail, which clearly is not working. And each time I've called them, they have confirmed they have the correct address. Any idea what to do in this situation?

    submitted by /u/cintus42
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    The notorious mid-mid-life crisis.

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 08:49 AM PDT

    I want to go to school full-time and get started on the career I've wanted since I was in high-school, but am unsure if it's feasible with around $1500 in monthly bills and if my age negatively affects loans/grants.

    I'm a 28 year old guy, I'm a salesman by trade - not because I like it, I'm just good at it and have been doing it since I was out of highschool.

    Many of us have a feeling of being "stuck" in certain jobs, but I more so feel stuck in this career.

    I live in Scottsdale, AZ. I make about $3600 a month, have a 300 car payment, 200 ins, 800 rent, 200 for food.. That's all.

    Overall, I want to be able to call myself my job title without wincing or cringing.

    I've always been academic, but fell out of it after I started making decent money. I want to become a psychologist, or, work in a field in which I can genuinely try to help people while having the occupation keep my interest. It's always made sense to me.

    So, I suppose the real question is: Is it feasible for a nearly 30 year old guy to go to school full-time? I don't mind having to take loans out and all that, my savings will be able to offset some of that damage.

    Thanks!

    submitted by /u/__L3X__
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    My mortgage loan consultant said I cannot get a copy of the credit report they pulled...why?

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 09:25 AM PDT

    He said by law they are not allowed to give me a copy of my own credit report. This baffles me. I'm paying for it and it's my own information so why do I not have access to it? What am I missing here?

    submitted by /u/namowrepus2002
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    Just graduated, starting job in July. Can I contribute to a Roth IRA now before my first paycheck?

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 07:30 PM PDT

    Will be starting a job in July, contract signed. Just graduated school after being a student for the last several years and have some money in my savings I want to put in a Roth IRA.

    Roth IRA requires you to make contributions using "earned income." I haven't worked in the past couple years, but I have some money saved. Am I allowed to make contributions before I start working?

    submitted by /u/ChickenNWaffles_
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    Company Stock offering. Too good to be true?

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 10:13 AM PDT

    The company I started working for last year is having their annual stock offering starting next week. The offer is 20% off the price set close of market today, and in addition a 1:1 match up to 5 shares. It will be locked in for 5 years, in which time I will also receive all dividends.

    Is this a normal offering? This is my first professional job out of college so I don't have any other exposure to this sort of thing. It seems too good to be true, which usually means it is. Any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated!

    submitted by /u/BIG_Cheese_25
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    Does Refinancing Make Sense In My Case?

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 09:01 PM PDT

    I currently owe about $55k at 5.5% on my home and it is valued around $180-$190k (conservatively). I still owe 18 years on it, but I have started speaking with some lending advisors and I can save $14k in interest as well as paying it off 3 years sooner. Closing costs will be about $3k, but I am rolling those into the loan itself. My plan is to also remove my escrow account in the process and use the savings ($500) to aggressively pay off the amount of debt that I have and put some aside for taxes/insurance. My goal is to keep my monthly payments low, so I would prefer to not do a cash out refi...curently I am bouncing my credit card balances around, so I am not paying a ton in interest.

    Thank you for any help!

    submitted by /u/ThriftyLife
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    Replacement Software for Quicken

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 04:00 PM PDT

    TL;DR: What financial tracking software do you use and what features do you like about it? Does anyone use non-cloud based software anymore or is that just for dinosaurs like me?

    ---

    Hello,

    I have Quicken 2017, and today is the last day that it will support download of my credit card and bank account transactions. I have had good experiences with Quicken in the past, but now that they are moving to a subscription model, with no way to buy persistent software, I am a bit less interested (OK, a whole lot less interested). I've never been a fan of subscription software, unless it's something that needs heavy updating (like industry specific software), or something that offers a better deal than me owning the software. (I'll leave it at that for now, but I could write an entire post on why I don't like "renting" my software).

    I'm looking for something to replace it and looking to see who on here likes what. I am a bit wary about any software that is web based since they will have my passwords, and I realize that probably limits a lot of my options and I may have to "get over" my security and data compromise fear.

    Here's what I value most

    1. Not storing my passwords and login information in the cloud (I realize I might have to get over this fear)
    2. Ability to see all of my accounts (credit cards, mortgage, investment, retirement, HSA, checking, savings, +/- business) "at a glance"
    3. Ability to automatically download #2 above
    4. Category tracking for budgeting (I'll explain more below)
    5. Reporting by months, quarters, years
    6. Forward planning (I used to use this more in Quicken to see upcoming expenses, but now that recurring expenses are stabilized, I have things like mortgage, utilities, etc more or less committed to memory)

    Being able to see everything "at a glance" is important to me since I have my HYSA's with two banks, checking with another bank, investment accounts with 3 institutions, retirement accounts with 2 banks, and between personal and business credit, 6 different banks for those. When I see the balance go up in my business account, it's a good reminder to take an owner draw and fund some investment accounts or at least get it over to the HYSA so it's not sitting in a 0 interest business checking account.

    To explain budgeting, I have to explain that I don't have a traditional budget. I don't actually care about forward planning for categories (food, eating out, entertainment) as much as I care about reviewing my budget at the end of the month. This is mainly due to how I live my life which is very different from how most people life theirs (I'll explain more if necessary but while I recently became a high earner, I still have a very frugal mindset so I don't come close to spending my take-home pay; less than 20% most months) but suffice to say now, I have 2 major categories I track. Required (which includes things like mortgage, utilities, internet, phone) and Discretionary (entertainment, travel--when we're not under a travel ban, food, clothing). There is a third category--business related--that I track in quickbooks although I wouldn't complain if I could also track it in whatever replacement I get for quicken.

    Month to month, I generally don't see a lot of movement in either the Required or Discretionary categories, but about 2-3 months out of the year, there will be an anomaly, and I like going back to see what caused it. For example, a couple of months ago I had an extra $1,500 in Discretionary which turned out to be something I had placed on a credit card to fix an issue in the house that really should have been considered Required. Last summer, I had a high Discretionary month that was due to a couple of trips I took with friends and I could easily see how much was food, transportation, lodging, etc. This winter I had a particularly cold month where natural gas bill was higher, but also had 2 billing cycles come due in the same calendar month hence why that was off by a lot. You get the idea.

    So redditors of r/personalfinance -- what do you recommend for me?

    Thanks for any suggestions you have!

    submitted by /u/WuMedic
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    US Federal reserve removes 6 withdrawal limit for savings accounts. Well Fargo does not honor that at this time

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 01:39 PM PDT

    I heard about the federal reserve deleting the 6 withdrawal limit on savings account transfers last Friday. So now you can withdraw money from your savings account as frequently as you want to.

    So I transferred money from my Wells Fargo savings account in smaller amounts as needed. I tried to transfer money today from my savings account and was told I could not do that as I had exceeded my 6 withdrawals per month limit.

    I called Wells Fargo and found out that they are working on it but as of right now you are limited to 6 withdrawals a month per savings account. I will now have to go to the bank in the middle of a pandemic to withdraw money from an ATM and then deposit that money into my savings account.

    Please be aware of this if you make frequent transfers from your savings account and thought you were in the clear due to the statement from the federal reserve. Luckily I'm not in a high risk group for the pandemic , but I don't want to increase my risk by going to the bank either.

    submitted by /u/deliciouspanda555
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    Advice on Inheritance Money From Parent

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 08:23 PM PDT

    First time poster in this sub. Dad who is 73 had an aunt pass away and stands to get a share of at least 60k, maybe more. He wants me to take that money now given his age and that his house and other things are paid. I'm 40 and in a situation where my wife and I are both teachers, have a house and are in a pension program and have savings and 401k, but have three kids and normal debt (mortgage, car, credit cards, etc). We are comfortable, but not well off, not struggling either.

    What would you some of you advise on this scenario given my age, financial situation, and tax implications with gifting more than 15k to a child?

    submitted by /u/B9Despot
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    When to consult a financial advisor, and how to choose one?

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 01:19 PM PDT

    Despite current circumstances, my wife and I are doing relatively well, and are looking at hiring a financial advisor sometime soon. We're not quite sure if it's worth it yet, and was hoping to pick the hivemind for advice. I'm currently 41 years old. Current situation is below:

    • Annual Income (combined) - $200k
    • Debt
      • $100k in student loans (combined)
      • $60k mortgage @ 5% with 19 years to go
      • $30k Home Equity line of credit @ 4.9%
      • Car/credit cards all other debt paid off
    • Positives
      • $15k in cash in savings - deposit an additional $1k/month most months, with occasional withdrawals for life issues
      • $6k in the stock market (Via the Stash app)
      • House estimated value ~$220k
      • 401k at ~$165k (was higher but taken a hit with the current market downturn)
    • Credit score - between 800 and 815 depending on which service you check

    We are in the process of refinancing the mortgage to consolidate the mortgage and heloc together into a 15 year loan at 2.75%.

    We've been talking about it for a while, and feel that having an advisor would let us better manage the savings and minor stock ownership better than we are currently. I know we are small fish in many cases, but we want to do our best to improve our situation for the long term. We do like to travel fairly often, but that's on hold now for obvious reasons.

    Any advice/suggestions would be appreciated!

    submitted by /u/Throwaway_1138v2
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    Denied mortgage due to student loan debt

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 07:33 PM PDT

    Hi

    I've been working with a lender since early March. I put an offer in on a condo on March 8th.

    I did the inspection a few days later and then the underwriters have been working on my loan. Today I was denied the mortgage because of an FHA rule where they consider 1% of your loans your payment, even though I am in an income payment plan where my payment is $45.

    I understand those are the rules (now) but I am wondering why the lender/underwriters dragged this on for so long. I've now paid earnest money, inspection costs and for an appraisal.

    Shouldn't this have been a red flag from the beginning? I am truly naive to this process but if this is an FHA rule why was the loan processed for weeks before I was denied for this reason? Are there any other options for a loan? Or should I start looking for an apartment?

    Loan: 132,000

    AGI: 36,000 (I also receive child support)

    Student loans: 60,000

    Downpayment: 3000, seller paying 6500

    Credit: 724

    Credit card debt: 5,000

    submitted by /u/Thatonegirl2200
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    Question about financial obligation and contractual liability with my wedding venue whom I'm trying to get a refund from.

    Posted: 29 Apr 2020 07:32 PM PDT

    I'm in an argument with my wedding venue about getting a refund for my wedding reception with the venue we booked. In our initial contract we signed it states "All deposits are non-refundable. Deposit will be applied to any final bill. Liability is limited to monies paid"

    The last line is where I'm having the issue. We understand that our initial deposit will not be refunded nor do we expect it to, however we have made other payment on the account over time since booking to help make that final charge on the due date smaller. Does that one line mean that I cannot get a refund on the extra money I have paid outside of the deposit? And i guess if that is the case for anyone who books venues that offer the ability to "make payments" before the deadline or due date of the entire cost, save that money and set it aside and pay it when it's due. In case a fucking Global pandemic threatens your event so your not out extra money, or forced to stay with the venue you booked even tho you may not be able to have you event. At any rate please advise. And thanks in advance

    submitted by /u/xAR7x
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