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    Personal Finance Sharing my 2020 budget spreadsheet

    Personal Finance Sharing my 2020 budget spreadsheet


    Sharing my 2020 budget spreadsheet

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 09:29 AM PST

    Budget spreadsheets seem to be a dime a dozen, and I know there are a few in the PF wiki, but I wanted to share mine for anyone who might find it helpful.

    Now that January is almost over, it's a great time to take stock of your expenses for the month and plan for the year ahead. To that end, I've made a relatively simple budget spreadsheet. It's designed to be accessible, easy to use, and largely automated. Note that I've left instructions/details as comments to cells. If you are not signed into a Google account, the comments don't appear and you should consult the "Instructions" sheet where the comments have been reproduced.

    What does this spreadsheet do well?

    • It's designed to give you a big-picture view of your basic financial situation, including income, expenses, remaining balance, budget, and savings. This is in the "Overview" sheet. It also allows you to track your expenses for each month in the sheets labeled "Jan20," "Feb20," "Mar20," etc.
    • There are three charts designed to help you visualize your financial situation if staring at rows of numbers doesn't help. There's a "Monthly Balance & Expenses" chart that shows your balance and expenses for each month. It also shows your budget so you can easily see how often you come in over or under what you expected to spend. There's an "Expenses as a Percentage" chart that compares your current month's spending to the previous month's; as the name implies, it's expressed as a percentage, so a negative percentage means you spent less than the previous month and a positive percentage means you spent more than the previous month. Lastly, there's a simple line chart of your expenses, showing how your expenses have changed over time. The charts might look a little funky now but once you start entering your data, everything should be formatted correctly.
    • On each month's sheet, there's a little section for setting a simple goal (e.g., "I want to reduce my expenses by 10% this month") and a space for reflecting on your progress (or lack thereof) for that goal.
    • This is meant to be pretty customizable while also leaving a lot of it automated and easy to understand (see below for more on the automation).

    What does this spreadsheet not do well?

    • This is not designed for tracking individual transactions or for providing a more granular view of your finances.
    • I made this spreadsheet with my own experiences in mind, so the spending categories are not detailed or exhaustive, there isn't really anything on investments or stocks, etc. Customize to your heart's content!
    • This is also not designed for saving up for certain goals or large expenses, but I've found other apps helpful for this.

    A few other notes:

    • Instructions and details about how various parts of the spreadsheet work are written as comments to particular cells. This is why it's important, when copying the template to use, that you check the "Copy comments" box. To see these instructions, just hover over the cell. NOTE: If you are not signed into a Google account, use the "Download" option and refer to the "Instructions" sheet.
    • As much as possible, I've tried to automate the spreadsheet so you just have to enter your income, expenses, and budget and the spreadsheet does the rest. Please pay attention to which cells might be linked to cells in other sheets, which cells feed into data for the charts, and which cells have to be changed if you, say, duplicate a monthly sheet for a future month. I've alerted users to most of this automation in the comments to cells.
    • If you have questions or notice any errors, I'll try to respond and fix them quickly. But for any major feature requests, consider creating them yourself in your own copy of the template.

    I hope some of you benefit from this! I had fun creating it. I've tried and failed to stick with a budgeting spreadsheet (and several popular budgeting apps) in the past, but I have a good feeling about this one!

    Edit 1: Thank you for the gold, whoever you are! It's my first one! I'm glad the response has been so positive.

    Edit 2: Silver too?? You guys are great!

    Edit 3: I'm seeing that some people are having trouble downloading the template. I'm not sure if it's because it's receiving too much traffic or downloads, but I'm also unable to access it when I'm signed out of my account. Anyway, I made an exact copy that I can access, and which people should use if the above link doesn't work.

    submitted by /u/alexl1994
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    First time car loan: 50% downpayment, 772 credit score but 5.9% APR?

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 06:33 AM PST

    I bought a used car yesterday for 20 grand, with a down payment of 50%. The finance guy took a look at my credit and said that I only have 3 lines of credit and anyone could get a 772 credit history with that. By this time we were so tired and just wanted to get out so we went with the 5.9% interest APR but I feel like I was insulted and taken for a fool. I still have 3 days to return the car if I wanted to. My question is, does a high credit score not mean anything anymore?

    Other relevant(?) info:

    • 70k/year salary (I work part time but have high earning potential up to 100k if I pick up more hours)
    • I had at least 9 years history of credit card usage (only 1 credit card, but I paid it off 100% on time
    • One of these "credit history" started at 105k student loan that is now 35k after 1 year of payment. Does this not mean jack shit to the creditors?

    I could pay off this car loan in 3 months but I want to know if I was taken for a fool.

    submitted by /u/ezonian
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    “Saving should be as fun as spending if you want to live comfortably in retirement.”

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 07:01 PM PST

    So about 3 years ago I saw a post on here that said if you want to enjoy retirement you have to learn how to make saving as fun as spending. It really clicked with me since I've always been a pretty big unnecessary spender and always had money burning a hole in my pocket.

    So I thought of some ways to make saving fun and seem less burdensome to help my 'future me.' The idea I had helped me save and maybe it can do the same for you.

    So when I stated working full time I paid off my student debt first (I worked really hard to do this and finally got rid of 10k my first year. I realize it's not always that way for everyone). But when I had the additional income in my pocket that wasn't going into loans, I admit I spent a lot and was breaking even each month with zero going into retirement, zero into savings or emergency funds.

    My idea: so I got this idea to save up enough money to fill up a Monopoly board. Just like the game. It gave me a goal to shoot for and a specific number I could visualize. Then I found a tool online called a compound interest calculator which shows how much you could make if you start saving when you're young (in my case 22-23 years old). Guess what, if you save enough money to fill up a monopoly board before you're 25 (about 20k, which can be hard for everyone depending on situation) that money can compound over time and by time you hit retirement it could be worth upwards of $250,000 (with ~6% interest each year). If your investments happen to get returns of ~10%, you'd be sitting with over $1,000,000 just from this exercise alone. Although 10% is much less likely, but you get the idea.

    So then I did two things.

    1) I calculated how much of my income I could afford to put away and automatically put it into company 401k so I never had to see it. And I get a tax break

    2) I BOUGHT a Monopoly play set for $10 and took out all the money. I now have two envelopes. One with the starting amount of money and one with the money I've saved into 401k.

    It helped tremendously to visually see that my funds were going and hold onto it, and count it. But never be able to spend it. Something about the tangible aspect of holding your money made this super fun for me.

    As a plus, this month I was humbled to say I achieved my goal and emptied out my first envelope and my other is filled. It was a long road and at times never thought I'd do it, but I turned 26 this week and am super excited to share!

    Over the last 2.5 years my original investments were also able to grow an additional ~$500, even in safe ETFs and mutual funds. It's the first sign of progress and I couldn't be more happy.

    Thanks for letting me share. :)

    submitted by /u/PostingMountainOC
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    My employer is posted a job at my position but with a salary range higher than what I make

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 06:08 PM PST

    I work in IT for a large company. My team has been understaffed for years, and management has finally gotten the ok for new positions on my team.

    I just stumbled upon a job posting, equivalent to mine, but the pay range for it is above what I make. I'm the "team lead" for my team and have been leading mostly overpaid contractors for the last couple years. I'm also the expert for our very specialized application, so anyone new is going to be trained by me. What can I do about this?

    To add to my rage at this situation, I asked to get a raise about a year ago. Ultimately, after waiting for months, I was told it wasn't going to happen. I'm well respected at my company, and get praise from both my direct management and other teams as an integral cog who makes our machine go. I don't see why management would OK new positions at a higher pay rate to bring in people they know nothing about our systems when the won't equally pay someone who has been performing at a high level for the last few years.

    Looking for any suggestions on how to go forward.

    Also, sorry for any bad grammar or formatting. I'm on mobile and quite pissed at the moment.

    submitted by /u/DesperadoBD3
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    $35k in debt. Don’t know what to do.

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 06:36 AM PST

    EDIT 2: Wow, this blew up. Thanks again, everyone. Here were the steps I took:

    1. I called the CC companies and negotiated lower interest rates and monthly payments. I can't use the cards for a year, but it'll help me get control of this.
    2. The credit counselor is contacting the servicer of my two personal loans and is going to negotiate the interest rates down and chop the monthly payments in half.
    3. I backed out of the debt settlement program.
    4. Still don't know how Reddit works.
    5. Still love Taylor Swift (some of you will get this)

    Thanks again, everyone. All of this advice gave me some hope. If anyone cares, I'll pop back with an update at some point.

    EDIT: I appreciate all the sound advice. I just got off the phone with a credit counselor and we are going to work toward getting me a good budget. I'm also meeting with my psychiatrist to really discuss the severity of the situation and get coping mechanisms.

    Also, I'm mostly a lurker/casual commenter on reddit and I had no idea you could click on someone's name and see all their past posts. Super embarrassing and uncomfortable.

    ORIGINAL: Let me start this by saying I'm probably going to be ripped to shreds over this. But I was referred to this subreddit by another sub, so I thought I'd give this a shot.

    I've been in debt since I was 19. I'm now 28, and that debt has ballooned to $35k, not including my student loans.

    The debt is all unsecured...credit cards and loans. I make $62,000 a year and I never have money. It's embarrassing and exhausting. Yes, before anyone asks, I'm pretty sure I have an undiagnosed shopping addiction.

    Payment breakdowns below. I bring home around $3500 a month.

    Rent: $650 (soon to be 1300 b/c my bf and I broke up) Utilities: $25 (soon to be 50 for the same reason) Cable: $131 (I think I'm going to downgrade to just internet. I need internet because my job has me work from home a fair bit) Personal loans: $800 CCs: $500 Car payment: $260 (can not get out of this, it's a lease) Car insurance: $135 (I live in an urban area and rates are higher, don't know what do do about this) Wells Fargo Student loan: $334 Federal Student loan: $280 Misc. Subscriptions: $54

    I just entered a debt settlement program two days ago. I don't know what else to do other than to file for chapter 13. I've started trying to sell things that I don't need. Tried doing Poshmark, but that didn't take off. Literally considered crowdfunding, but then I realized no one would donate to the cause lol. Guess I'll start playing the lottery.

    Any and all advice would be appreciated. I get that some of the responses might be harsh. I get that I'm an idiot and a failure. You don't need to remind me of that.

    submitted by /u/makeupjunkie92
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    How much is working from home really worth?

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 10:28 AM PST

    I just got a job offer that pays around 56k a year, I currently make just under 40k. Sounds great on paper. However, my main issue is that I currently work from home and I am wondering how much that is really worth. My new job would be at an office about 15 mins away, not bad, but not at home.

    The new job would obviously increases my pay by 43.6% (if my math is right) which is awesome, but I would need to get a car, more clothes (no more sweatpants!), and more money would be spent on food most likely. And on top of all that this new job has much worse benefits in terms of PTO, sicks days, healthcare costs (nearly double from what I pay now), etc.

    No to mention the fact that my current job grants me unlimited time off and sicks days, which is extremely rare, but the pay is the obvious weak point of the job.

    With all those variables, I'm finding its not as easy as, "I make this now and it increases X amount." I wish it were that easy.

    My question is, how much is me working from home really worth? People at my current company have given me the idea that it roughly saves me about 10k a year, given a cost of a car, clothes, food, etc. I wouldn't doubt that that could be.

    So if that is the case, this new job offer would be a 14.3% increase in pay, which is still nice, but not the 43.6% increase I had initially thought it was. Additionally, the added costs of the new job would still have to come from that smaller 14.3% increase...

    Wondering if you all have any thoughts on this big decision of mine. I appreciate any help I could get, thanks so much!

    submitted by /u/sirillow
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    Is a 10% increase worth it to switch jobs?

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 07:51 AM PST

    I'm interviewing for a job tommorow, but this one is paying 10% more than what i make now.

    would you guys jump ship for 10% or should i just wait for something better?

    submitted by /u/Brocks1991
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    Budget planner from Government of Canada that’s not specific to Canadians and should be helpful to anyone trying to better plan their finances

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 06:11 AM PST

    Student loan advice please

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 05:09 PM PST

    I have about $20k in super old student loans that I never really paid on. They are all in default at about 6.75% interest. All of the loans are so old that they fell off my credit report a few years ago.

    This is my last remaining debt of any kind, and I would like some advice on how to proceed. Do I rehab the loans? Consolidate them? If I start paying on them again, will they show back up and destroy my credit score?

    Any advice would be much appreciated 😊

    submitted by /u/snappyvanwinkle
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    How bad is no rent history when going I'm alone on an apartment?

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 03:52 PM PST

    Now to begin, I'm 28 now. Never have been listed as a renter. I've paid rent where I've lived, but never was on any form of contract. Credit score for free view is 685.

    I've never had a credit card other than the idea of available credit to be the CD of 400, I can add to the CD to increase my credit limit while the CD matures, I felt it the safer option vs opening a credit card, as it does give me a credit limit I know for sure I can pay, while building even a small amount of interest on what the limit is.

    No loans other than a car payment that's been made every month. Had a car repossed over 8 years ago that doesn't show. I'm on the up now.

    I only make 15 an hour, I live in texas. Is this going to be difficult?

    Should I get a credit card with a bigger allowance that's not based on a CD? I've always leaned more to being on the no debt line...

    I've been looking at apartments less than 800 some less than 700 as a first step, but wonder if itll be problematic with no cosigner, because of the lack of rent history... did attempt some math like 15x40x52÷12 gross income to get am idea of what I can afford to get looking.

    submitted by /u/msbop
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    Anyone Gotten Out of $50k + Debt?

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 08:24 AM PST

    Hi everybody - I'd really like to talk to somebody who successfully made it out of tons of debt - I'm in a situation where my team is relying on me for their survival; they have had a lot of faith in me in the ups and downs, as had my family - but the every-increasing debt # has the dark side of me looking for an easy way out of the pressure (bankrupcy)

    Long story short, I was not financially literate- did not have skills or understand how things worked. Got out of college, formed a successful business, made a lot of money and invested 100% of it back into the business; including every piece of credit or loan I got my hands on, even personal cards - went to the business. To me, I thought "taking the hit" was what a strong entrepreneur would do, and truly believed i could generate a return in excess of the #s.

    Long story short, I coasted over 2 years, got a bigger business, paid off some of the debt, but added more and more expenses - that I had no way out of. Around 6 months ago, I started losing a lot of business, and the cash flow went into the red - while I had maybe $25k debt at that point, I had to borrow another $50k over the course of the 6 months. I cut a lot of expenses at the end of the day, reclaimed some of the lost business, but ultimately it hasn't turned around as fast as i wanted it to.

    Not going to get into exact #s, but lets just say its half personal credit cards and another half of loans with fixed fees; not great terms on any of them. its all maxed out, and my credit score is in the sewer. Consolidating thus is not an option as the terms are terrible.

    Comparative to the amount of $ I was making at a certain point, the debt could be paid off relatively simply - but I've lost faith in myself thorugh this and don't know whats possible.

    Anyone been in a similar situation and gotten out?

    submitted by /u/tindercopter120
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    I received a job offer that would require me to "super-commute", ie frequently fly to their office in another state. They want me to give them a proposal to structure this, what should I ask for?

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 08:36 PM PST

    Long story short, a 3 year old startup company a couple states over from where I live now really wants me to work for them. Ideally they'd want me moving out there, but due to family obligations thats not an option right now. However the CEO said they would be potentially open to working out a situation where I would work remotely some of the month, and then fly into the office for some of the month.

    They've never done anything like this before with another employee, so they asked me to put together a proposal how I'd want to arrange it, along with costs involved so they can determine if it makes sense for everyone. I'm trying to figure out the best way to structure this.

    First of all I need to determine if it makes more sense for me to suggest they pay for all travel-related expenses as they come up on the company card. If I should factor the travel expenses into my salary / offer package and book everything myself. Or if I should say I will book myself and they'll reimburse, for however much that ends up.

    Also need to figure out all the moving pieces like flights, transport to the airport, rental car vs ubers, hotel vs renting an apartment, meals, etc.

    I'm thinking I will tell them I can agree to work x # of days per month in the office. (eg. 12 days per). And either go out 3 days per week, Mon-Weds, every week....or fly every other week for the entire Mon-Friday.

    He also insinuated that the extra travel costs would affect my base salary. I'd still be making more than I do now, I really like the company, and most of all theres equity involved (they're profitable), so I think it'd be worth it.

    Wondering what the best option I should take here is? There's obviously tax implications at play as far as the travel costs and reimbursements. Also don't want to scare them off from the offer.

    Any insight from people who have done super-commutes before would be super helpful as well.

    submitted by /u/cpetaw
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    Does fidelity still offer premium services for higher accounts?

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 06:09 PM PST

    I have an IRA with over $300,000 in it with fidelity and still have not seen fidelity premium services when I log into my account. Is there a special number I need to call? Also does fidelity still offer the free turbo tax for their premium customers?

    submitted by /u/diku_gagoodiu
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    Finance Tracking Tools Other Than MINT

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 05:05 AM PST

    I've been using MINT to track my finances for close to 10yrs, and have become increasingly slightly less satisfied since they were bought by INTUIT. Looking for recommendations on free Finance Tracking tools to integrate data from multiple banks, retirement accounts, investment accounts, and etc.

    submitted by /u/maquina_verde
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    Medical bill ($155) sent to collections agency, impacting credit score significantly, but I never received a bill

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 11:30 AM PST

    I checked my FICO score this morning as I do every month, and was extremely concerned when my score had dropped from 807, where it has stayed for the last 10 or so months, to around 650. I pulled my credit report, and it indicated that there was a bill sent to a collection agency for $165.

    After searching through my EOBs on my insurance to see if there were any items matching who the credit agency said was the initial creditor, it looks like it was most likely from a doctors appointment from April 2019 for $155. I have been a longstanding patient at this practice, and have always paid my bills from them as soon as they were received. I did not receive any bills for this April visit (checked my email, and definitely did not receive a paper bill in the mail), no calls from the doctors office, no emails, no notification that it was being sent for collections. I had no indication of this until I checked my credit score and saw that it had dropped. I wanted to find out what the likelihood of having this adverse account removed from my credit report would be given that I was not notified at all that I had a bill outstanding, let alone that it was being sent to a collections agency, and how I should go about resolving this.

    Thanks in advance for the help!

    submitted by /u/mf47brds
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    I’m 24, and have no money saved.

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 08:18 PM PST

    Any advise? I pay into my life insurance policy (not sure which type, all I know is I can take loans out on myself with no interest) $366 per month. I make about $2k per month. My expenses (not including the life insurance) are about $600 per month. Somehow I have no fucking money saved. I feel like an idiot, but any tips?

    Edit: I should have added that $600 is fixed bills. A lot of my money goes towards food, groceries, gas, going out etc

    submitted by /u/rjshoemaker55
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    How expensive is a baby?

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 06:24 AM PST

    I've seen wildly different cost calculations online. I'm trying to get a feel for how much to save and how it affects our monthly budget. Were looking to start trying early 2021. I've built up some categories that I think cover everything, but I have no idea how much to budget realistically. I'm an over planner and feel like I'll never have enough.

    Some details:

    We own our house so our housing expenses arent expected to change much, but I'd like to move to a better neighborhood before kindergarten. Our 4 bed 2 bath is valued at 280 right now and we owe about 240. It's a fixer and if we did more work on it could be worth 300 or more. Weve had it a bit over a year. A similar house in a better neighborhood right now costs about 500-600k (its hard to find similar square footage, most of the houses are bigger unless you're looking at townhomes, which we dont want) The best neighborhoods are 1mil+, not really trying for that lmao, but I'm scared that's where the market will be for the whole area in a few years.

    Current net income abt 5800, expenses abt 4800. So we have some room.

    I'll have maternity leave at 60% salary for 6mo, reducing monthly income abt 1200, meaning I'll need to save some to cover those 5 months, go back to work sooner, or further reduce expenses.

    Abt 30k sitting in savings

    Pregnancy expenses:$$$

    Baby furniture/supplies etc:$$$

    Baby clothes (monthly?):$$$

    Formula+bottles or pumping:$$$

    Day care (mcol for ca but hcol in general), will probably not need a full work schedules worth based on our hours:$$$

    Diapers/wipes/food:$$$

    Other______________:$$$

    Anything you weren't expecting?

    Thanks:)

    Edit: this blew up while I was asleep! Itll take me a bit to read everything. Thanks you guys :)

    submitted by /u/aylassej0809
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    ESPP, RSU vest, Wash Sale Question…

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 04:21 PM PST

    On 9/24/19, I "exercised" my ability to purchase company shares through my employer's ESPP. The date this option grant/offering period began on was 3/25/19. My employer's ESPP offers two, 6-month periods each fiscal year, a 15% discount, and the lower of the two prices on the offering period start or end date.

    Shortly after this ESPP purchase, an annual vesting period was met, where I was awarded compensation in the form of RSUs. My tax election on the RSUs were defaulted to "sell-to-cover" in order to cover my tax liability, as it was income. This transaction occurred on 10/15/19.

    I'm currently preparing my taxes (I do them myself), and I'm seeing that the subsequent "sell to cover" (dispose/sell) action as a result of my RSU vest is reporting as a wash sale, due to the close timing of when the ESPP purchase occurred. This disposal also resulted in a short-term loss.

    I, for the most part, understand the rules regarding a wash sale, but I am wondering if it is possible to make a Wash Sale Loss Adjustment. Is this even a thing?

    My reasoning being that I had no control over the timing of executing those transactions (ESPP buy, RSU sell) which resulted in it being a wash sale.

    Any and all thoughts or advice is appreciated and will be considered.

    Thank you

    submitted by /u/wool_gatherer
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    Received a 2019 W-2 with for a job I did not work for or was not paid by in 2019.

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 08:04 AM PST

    I left this job in August of 2018. The W-2 has roughly one weeks of pay on it. This W-2 is also in a state I have not lived in since october 2018 or worked in Since august 2018. I received my last paycheck from this job a week or two after my last day so I'm certain I never worked or was paid by them during or close to 2019. So to my knowledge I was never paid the money that shows on the W-2.

    My main issue is that my 2019 return has already been submitted and accepted since, to my knowledge, I already had all the information I needed to file. What are my options with this issue? Im going to contact my previous employer tomorrow but what exactly can be done by them?

    submitted by /u/One_dank_orange
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    Any reason not to buy a house if it's cheaper than renting and I can afford repairs?

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 01:26 PM PST

    Me and my wife are looking at moving out of our apartment into an affordable starter home. Right now we pay $800/m for a one bedroom in Cleveland, OH. The houses we are looking at are on the cheaper end at $90-100k. Most have new appliances and aren't scheduled for any major repairs anytime soon (of course we will have the inspector confirm). Even with insurance, taxes, PMI, the mortgage payment will be almost $200 less than our rent, for our own place with much more space and freedom than an apt. offers.

    We don't plan on moving within the next 10 years and have a decent emergency fund to cover any sudden expenses. We are both in our mid 20's and have full time jobs but don't plan on any major career changes. We make about $50k a year combined and our only debt is our car payments (about $550/m combined, I realize this is a bit high for our income, but we can easily afford the $800 rent so I don't see how a $620 mortgage would be an issue). I also like the fact that we will have equity in a home rather than just throwing the money into the black hole of some landlords pocket.

    Is there any real reason why it would be a bad idea for us to buy our own place at this point?

    submitted by /u/joey_fatass
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    Is there a good reward saving app?

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 02:39 PM PST

    Something that checks in with me at the end of the day and says "did you do the thing that you were supposed to do" and if I say yes it puts a predetermined amount into a vacation fund or something and if I say no it sends money to charity or something? My therapist wants me to try positive reinforcement for savings.

    IF such a thing doesn't exist....how much would someone pay for something like that (I'm a full stack developer...)

    submitted by /u/madocgwynedd
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    Looking for a free customizable budgeting Excel template with monthly budget sheets and a yearly summary / pivot table

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 09:17 AM PST

    Hi. Pretty much in the title.

    Would like anticipated / real expense / difference columns, if that is possible.

    Would like to avoid apps / website for privacy reasons. I've searched the subreddit and on google and didn't find anything quite like what I was looking for.

    submitted by /u/grosoursnoir
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    Help with canceling green dot reloadable prepaid visa card

    Posted: 26 Jan 2020 06:09 PM PST

    Hey I'm not sure if this is the correct subreddit but any help will be appreciated

    So I bought a green dot prepaid visa card to buy game related items online. I've used gift cards before and linked them to my paypal but the extra $5 fee was too much and saw greendot and was excited to see the $1 activation fee.

    When I tried to link the card to my paypal it didn't work so I thought maybe I do have to activate it afterall. So, I went to their website to activate it and found it strange that they required ssn and all that but sure I thought to myself and added the card and bought the items that I needed.

    Now when I saw the $7 fee on it I was a bit mad and wanted to close my account right away then I dove deeper into the rabbit hole and found out there is almost no way to cancel the account to the card it got even worse when I saw they had "bank information" on the right side of the webpage where it showed balance and that freaked me the fuck out.

    I didn't want a bank account under my name or anything. All I wanted was to buy my items and that's it. Now I've been browsing reddit trying to find answers but not much luck.

    It says once my account balance is 0 I can call the number to cancel it but alot of people on reddit who had to deal with green dot say it's a headache. I'm willing to do it but will it completely close my account and card I don't want any of it and will it affect my credit score if say I get my balance to be 0 and don't use the card and they cancel it?

    I'm really freaking the fuck out and any help will be appreciated.

    submitted by /u/Yucked
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