Personal Finance Bill from AT&T wireless came to my house for $730. I don't have AT&T wireless.... |
- Bill from AT&T wireless came to my house for $730. I don't have AT&T wireless....
- shitty ex-boss is requesting SSN for taxes I don't trust him and I don't wanna get nailed in any way what do I do?
- I need some advice/support :(
- Raise is "retroactive" and has an "effective date"?
- Drowning in hospital bills.
- I just got scammed on ebay and I am a bit confused on what to do
- Co-signed daughter's apartment lease. She moved out 8 months ago and has an email from them showing her move-out account balance is $0. But we just learned we're in collections...
- Should I invest my savings for a down payment or keep it liquid for 5-7 years?
- Checking Account with Bad Credit
- Unknown ATM Withdrawal - what steps to take to protect myself
- Is it a good idea to contribute to my parents' IRA?
- Collections accounts.
- How to tackle my student loans
- Can you all confirm I'm understanding 401k fund selection correctly?
- Company credit card vs. personal credit question
- I think I messed up buying/financing a car. Would love some advice
- $100,000+ in debt. Am I going in the right direction?
- Questions about student loan debt and forgiveness (specifically regarding the Art Institute clusterfuck)
- Should I create an IRA as a 17 year old?
- I am beginning to really question my choice of buying a house. What are my best options?
- Young, dumb, and need help out of this hole.
- Over-invested in one sector and looking to diversify
| Bill from AT&T wireless came to my house for $730. I don't have AT&T wireless.... Posted: 24 Feb 2019 02:11 PM PST Apparently someone bought multiple Iphone XS and opened an AT&T account in my name last month. I just received a bill with past due fees and it totals over $730. I have T-Mobile, not AT&T. What do I do now? Edit 1: I called AT&T and they confirmed it was fraud. Opened through a third party service online "Enjoy". They used full social and name/address. I also called my bank and put a secret codeword on my account. I've filed a freeze with experian and equifax. I'm working on Trans-union. Someone mentioned police report, is this really important? What is the purpose? What else should I do? Edit 2: I've filled a report through Identitytheft.gov. I'm keeping records on my laptop so I can access these things later to unfreeze my accounts and such. I'll try to pull another credit report tomorrow to check for fishiness. Thank you for the help! [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 24 Feb 2019 10:28 AM PST Throwaway for obvious reasons. So back in July I worked ajob where my boss was actually very shitty towards me in the workplace, gave my paychecks a month late, shit like that. Long story short I realized I was in a toxic work environment and quit without notice. The president of the company pays me, and then texts me to drop his number and email, so clearly me means "Don't talk to me again." When I started working I gave the president of the company my I-9 form, of which he wanted sent by email, which I was suspicious of, I don't like the idea of sending highly sensitive documents over email, so I encrypted the document and sent him the key by text. So fast forward to today, I get a text from him asking my SSN (I reiterate over text or email) and my address so he can file my taxes (1099). This is the same guy who months ago demanded I drop his number and email and is now asking for my most valuable info. Long story short, I'm not giving him my SSN and Address since I simply don't trust him, I believe he is both malicious and careless and don't want him with such information. Though I don't want to be in any bad standing with the IRS, especially since I made less than $3K through the course of the financial year. I have reserve cash in a savings just in case the IRS asks for their cut (I was payed as a contractor without explicitly being told I am a contractor......). Do I just do nothing? I was told that since he doesn't have my SSN or Address he can't report it to the IRS (He does have my first and last name though). I'm not sure how to handle this situation, help pls? Thanks /r/personalfinance Edit: Spelling + Grammar [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 24 Feb 2019 11:12 AM PST I'm a 23 year old single mother to a 5 year old girl. We live in a 2 bedroom apartment close to her school. Lately I've fell onto some financial difficulties and I've been unable to afford my rent. I'm falling short of £155 each month due to the problems in hours at work. It's really difficult to find a part time job working within school hours so changing my job at the moment isn't an option. My landlord is becoming impatient (rightly so) since I owe him over £600 now and I'll be short again this month too. I feel like I'm crying out for help and receiving nothing. I've cut back of spending to the point of going hungry (not my child of course) I've been in touch with government housing and I've been placed on a "bidding" platform for a house with cheaper rent, but with the points I have 145+ people are in front of me for it. I'm trying to finish a degree but I can't seem to focus on anything whilst I'm hunting for money to pay my rent to keep a roof over our heads. My family are unsupportive which makes it all so much worse :( I'm terrified of becoming homeless. What can I do? I haven't stopped crying all day because I feel I've come to a brick wall with options after frantically calling every number possible for a bit of help, I'm falling behind on all my other bills too :( [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Raise is "retroactive" and has an "effective date"? Posted: 24 Feb 2019 02:52 PM PST Hi, I just received a raise at my company from $52,000 to $56,000. I was told the raise was retroactive to January 1 (which is also its effective date). Can someone explain to me what that means? Does my next paycheck include my new paycheck amount as well as the difference from 52k-56k for the pay periods from January 1 until now? Thanks [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 24 Feb 2019 07:12 AM PST Two years ago I racked up about 9k in hospital bills after a suicide attempt, never intended to pay them because I left not feeling any better and I was likely going to try again and hopefully succeed that time. Anyways! I obviously didn't, I'm in a better place and now suffering because of my bad financial decision. It seems some of them went to different collection agencies? I'm getting a few different ones when I pull up my credit report. Since it's gone to collections, is it too late to try and negotiate with the hospital and set up a payment plan? Or do I hunt down each of my bills? [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| I just got scammed on ebay and I am a bit confused on what to do Posted: 24 Feb 2019 09:54 AM PST So I was using ebay and decided to buy something and collect it via local pickup. Afterwards, he basically had my information and purchase details i.e. name and whatnot. Then he cancelled the order, refunded me the money and said that he didn't realise he was on the wrong ebay account which was linked to his aunt's paypal account. He then linked me to another link of the exact item with the same pickup location so I thought nothing was wrong. I bought from that seller and told him I was gonna meet him at 4PM. Afterwards, the scammer himself went to that seller's house really early during the arranged day and picked it up himself - showing a screenshot of my personal details and whatnot that showed when I purchased from the scammer. Basically the scammer got me to buy the item for him and now IDK what to do. I can contact paypal and charge back but I don't know what that will do for the seller. It was a somewhat expensive item so I'm asking for help here. Thanks! [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 24 Feb 2019 06:14 PM PST Neither of us ever received any bills, emails, calls, letters in the mail, nothing...but we've just learned we're in collections for a measly $190. Would have happily paid whatever this is but we weren't ever given the option to do so. We'll start untangling this tomorrow, but does anyone have any advice? I'm freaked out this is now on both of our credit reports. I want to resolve this ASAP without negative consequence. [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Should I invest my savings for a down payment or keep it liquid for 5-7 years? Posted: 24 Feb 2019 09:57 AM PST In short: I would love to get some advice on where to keep my savings for a down payment on a home if I plan to purchase in the next 5-7 years. Should I stick with a high yield savings, invest as General Investing with Betterment, or some other thing? I imagine saving about $60-84k over that time period, putting away $1k a month. Some additional info if it helps for context: I am 25, a second year teacher in NYC, and I would say my job is very stable but I don't see my current salary (70k) increasing by much. I currently rent in NYC. My long term goal (5-7 years) is to (on my own) buy a condo/coop in NYC or more likely NJ (though, who knows exactly where, I may go down to Philadelphia where I graduated from college and also have teaching certification). I'm thinking I would want to put as close to 50% down on about 130-150k. Currently, I already contribute about 20% of my income to my 401k, and max out my Roth IRA, while also putting some money away for short term savings (e.g. travel and gifts). After that, I have just started putting $1000 a month into a high yields savings account (current rate is 2.2%) as my Down Payment fund. Basically I'm wondering if I should be investing this money in the meanwhile. I currently have a Roth IRA with Betterment, which I am happy with, so I would just open a General Investing account with them for this. Thanks! [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Checking Account with Bad Credit Posted: 24 Feb 2019 12:31 PM PST Hey all, My sibling has had bad credit. She currently got a job and wants to set up a checking account. We tried Schwab but they flat out rejected her. She is also looking for checking accounts that do not have a minimum or fees. I know that it is not possible to find second chance checking accounts without fees, but I was wondering if there are any other alternatives that I could be missing out on. Please let me know if I can clarify in anyway. Thank you! Update: People can say bad things about Reddit, but 20 comments within 3 hours! #IAmSoProudofThisCommunity Update2: I talked to my sister and figured out that her relationship with Chase ended when someone scammed her with a fraudulent check (years ago), I would assume that is one of the reason why she was rejected by Schwab. [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Unknown ATM Withdrawal - what steps to take to protect myself Posted: 24 Feb 2019 12:16 PM PST Recently I discovered that there was a withdrawal from my Wells Fargo account. It looks like the money was taken out and then put back in. I contacted Wells Fargo right away and they said it looked like the withdrawal had been declined at an ATM in the same state but different city. I closed my current debit card and ordered a new one. A couple questions... How would a person use my debit card at an atm to withdraw money if I still had the physical card? I do not have a second card or any authorized users. This current card is also fairly new. What steps can I take to protect myself? I have my account and routing number written down and hidden in my apartment. I do not have it any where else. Any further advice would be great. [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Is it a good idea to contribute to my parents' IRA? Posted: 24 Feb 2019 06:41 PM PST My parents are both 60 and both are still working. They have IRAs in Australia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Superannuation_in_Australia) that they'll be access once they retire (or reach 65, whichever happens first). I have some cash lying around in a savings account that grows slowly (less than 3% pa), and I was thinking about doing something more with it. Does it make sense for me to make contributions to their IRAs? My logic is their IRAs grow at a relatively high rate (10%, higher than a regular savings account) so it's a good investment. They'll be able to withdraw from the IRAs in five years, so it's also relatively short term. They could give me back the contributions I made and keep the interest. Of course, I can put the money into my own IRA, and watch it grow at the same rate, but I won't be able to see it for the next 30 years. I don't have that much financial knowledge, so I was hoping someone more experienced could tell me if my idea is good or bad. [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 24 Feb 2019 06:51 PM PST So my husband and I have been trying to get his credit score up for the past forever. Recently we noticed two collections accounts on his credit report, one for Comcast and one for Bright House. Both internet companies. We contacted both companies Bright House verified that he never had an account there and we had an open account with Comcast at the time, so no collections. And plus the Comcast one was opened a few years back and the only time we had opened a Comcast account was in the middle of 2018. We disputed both with the credit bureau. Both of them are only reported on Equifax. Equifax removed the one for Bright House and says the Comcast one is indeed ours. That's just absolutely not the case. So... we check the credit score today and the one from Bright House is BACK AGAIN for the same amount ($285) that it was before. I'm not sure what else to do because Bright House and Comcast both verified these accounts were not ours and Equifax already removed the Bright House account once. Any sort of advice would be great because even when the accounts get removed, they only go back up half the points they dropped and these accounts are truly hurting us and they're not even ours. Thanks a bunch. [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| How to tackle my student loans Posted: 24 Feb 2019 11:16 AM PST I graduated last May from a state school and have a little over $20,000 in loans. I currently have a full time, decent paying job which allows me to put $200 a week towards paying them off, sometimes $300. My loans are broken down into 6 groups as follows: Group A: Subsidized, 4.3% interest rate, $3,500 principle balance Group B: unsubsidized, 4.3%, $2,000 Group C: subsidized, 3.8%, $5,500 Group D: unsubsidized, 3.8%, $2,000 Group E: subsidized, 4.5%, $5,500 Group F: unsubsidized, 4.5%, $2,000 I am in my grace period until August so only the unsubsidized loans are accruing interest at this point. I have put about $700 towards group F and $300 towards group B, but I have barely made a dent. What is the best way I can go about knocking these down? [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Can you all confirm I'm understanding 401k fund selection correctly? Posted: 24 Feb 2019 09:53 AM PST After watching this old Last Week Tonight video, I got inspired to look at my 401k account with Nationwide to see if I was getting screwed over. Mind you, I'm absolutely ignorant when it comes to retirement plans. When I made my selection and chose my contribution for my company's 401k, I just kinda guessed that $100 a month and a moderately conservative fund choice would be okie dokie. Now, I'm pretty sure that wasn't the best thing for me to do.
So, based on my research and after reading the AMAZING wiki pages provided by this sub, I think I've made some good decisions with it. Can ya'll confirm or point out where I might be misguided?
Basic Info: Age: 26 Retirement plan: 401k with Nationwide Employer matching to 401k: 0% (sucks, I know) Current paycheck contribution: $50.00 biweekly
My understanding is this: that I need to make sure the net expense ratios ("ER") fees are below .2% for the funds I pick. Since I'm turning 27 this year, a good rule of thumb is to ensure at least 27% of my allocation is held in bonds. My stock allocation must therefore be divided among the remaining 78%. US stocks should be around 70% of that, and Non-US stocks should be around 30%. This leaves me with the following:
US Stocks Allocation: 51% Non-US Stocks Allocation: 22% Bond Allocation: 27%
I painstakingly went through each fund available to me in my 401k plan, and documented in an excel spreadsheet the Net ER, US Stocks %, Non-US Stocks %, Bonds %, Cash % and 'Other' %. First, I removed any with a Net ER of over .2%, and then sorted each from largest to smallest by their percentage allocated to US, Non-US and bonds to determine my %allocation based on the calculations I did above. I determined the best were provided by Vanguard below:
Did I do this right? Also, wth is the Cash% and Other%? should I take those into any type of consideration?
Thank you all in advance for your help. I'm trying my best to plan for my future and appreciate any advice you can lend me.
Edit: Formatting [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Company credit card vs. personal credit question Posted: 24 Feb 2019 12:29 PM PST Hi All, Throw away (aweigh) account for obvious reasons. Also, not sure if this is the best subreddit for this question, let me know if I should take it elsewhere. So I have a company CC card with my name on it, along with the company name (XXXXXX, LLC)., it is an AMEX business card. I've never thought twice about it until I had to call AMEX to report is missing and request a replacement. During the recorded portion of the call it asks the last four digits of your SS number to verify the account, I paused thinking there's no way it's my personal SS, and since it was a recording just figured it didn't matter, so I made up four random numbers ...which gave a response that it wasn't recognized. I then went ahead and entered the last four digits of my personal SS and got the response that it was verified. Is this normal? This card was given to me by the accountant, they didn't request any information and I always assumed it was set up through the business. When my SS is tied to it, I feel like that means my credit is tied to it? Just looking for advice. Happy to answer other questions. Thanks [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| I think I messed up buying/financing a car. Would love some advice Posted: 24 Feb 2019 02:03 PM PST So I live in Washington and recently got a promotion from $45k to about $56k in a fairly low cost of living area. I'm 34, single, and rent an apt. I have a 401k, but only contribute 3%. I have about $12k of student loans left and pay about $220 a month on that. My old car was on its last leg and I really fell in love with the Subaru Outback. I had $8k saved up and wanted to get a 2015-16ish one. I knew I'd have to finance one, but I was ok with that. I was thinking $15-21k total. I went shopping and saw a 2018 outback with only 4400 miles for only 23k. It was certified pre owned and was the lots loaner car. It has all the bells and whistles except leather seats. They also talked me into an additional $1500 warranty. I figured this was a deal I couldn't pass up since it blue books for $28-30k and bought it. Now I'm having serious buyers remorse. I financed through the dealership at 5.94apr, payments are $359 a month for 66 months. When I reviewed the info, I am paying $32000 for the car when all is said and done. I'm having panic attacks... The dealership does have a 5 day/250 mike money back guarantee and I'm considering using it (tomorrow is the last day of it). I'm assuming they won't refund everything like the warranty, but I'm not sure. If I do take it back, how will this effect my credit? My family isn't great with money issues so any thoughts or comments would be great. Edit: also have about $12k worth of student loans as well. [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| $100,000+ in debt. Am I going in the right direction? Posted: 24 Feb 2019 01:24 PM PST I am in need of some advice. I am 29 years old and I currently live in Southern California am $100,000+ worth in debt. This is from two bachelors (first philosophy, second in Nursing) and a master's degree in nursing that is in progress and lastly credit card debt. I was working as an assistant for about 4 years, making about $40,000 a year prior to becoming a Registered Nurse. I was at a dead-end job and I knew how much nurses were making in CA so I went for it plus I enjoy helping others. My finaces: https://i.imgur.com/QgXef3W.jpg (breakdown) Hourly: $42, starting in June $50 (this is a for sure thing since I automatically move up in the ladder). However, raises will stall at that rate for a while. Hours worked a week: 40 Monthly Income (AFTER taxes): roughly $4,300 (after my increase I'm thinking I'll have an extra $1,000). Since I am also doing my masters full-time I am unable to work more another job. I decided to go back to grad school and get masters in nursing because my employer has a tuition reimbursement program that pays for about 50% of the tuition. I am able to put my loans in deferment ($32,000 of my loans are subsidized so gov pays for interest while in school). $7,000 of my student loans is Perkins Loans and I am able to get them forgiven after 5 years working as a nurse. With my tuition reimbursement and loan cancellation of my Perkins my masters will end up costing my about $5000. In nursing, having an advance degree is very helpful especially in management positions so I took the plunge early. Plan: Whatever increase I get in June I plan on putting all of that towards my debt. My current goal is to pay off my private loan, followed by my private student loan, then my federal student loans. My current credit score is 755. So I've been offered by 3 of my credit cards balance transfers at 4% fee and 0% interest for 1 year. I am thinking of transferring my personal loan ($18,500) towards this since the interest rate for that loan is 14.7%. If I pay roughly $1500-2000 on that loan a month I can pay it off before the promo ends. The only thing is I did a consolidation so I could just have 1 payment, yet this seems to be the more logical thing to do. Personally, I would like to pay all of this debt off by the time I am 35. However, it seems I would not have much saved if I did. I do not want a roommate. I had a roommate and she stole from me and I do not need to deal with that again. Do you all think my plan is attainable? If I could go back, I would have just gone straight to nursing, but that ship has sailed. I was also pretty reckless with my money and I am trying to change all that before I hit 30 this year. [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 24 Feb 2019 01:58 PM PST So I attended AI in 2006 and dropped out in 2008, the loans have since gone into collections with FedLoan Servicing, I've tried to deal with them numerous times over the years but I'm quite poor and the amount they insist on me paying each month is vastly outside the realm of possible for me, I've sat down with a mediator with them in the past and nothing came of it, the mediator determined I could in no way make the payment they were demanding and they wouldn't take anything less. Now I'm hearing all sorts of things about lawsuits against AI and loans being forgiven etc but I'm financially retarded and quite literally need my hand held with these sort of things. [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Should I create an IRA as a 17 year old? Posted: 24 Feb 2019 06:25 PM PST I'm currently a senior in high school and planning on going to a 4-year college in September. I'm lucky enough to have scholarships and parent support to pay for at least the first year but I'm not sure about the years after that. I currently have $5k sitting in a local bank account and looking at ways to expand that relatively risk free as I could possibly need it in a year and a half but I also might not need it at all if I get lucky. One option I found was to create a ROTH IRA and buy CD's or something similar to that. The benefits I see is that I can withdraw what I contribute right whenever I want to and it wouldn't count as an asset when doing my FAFSA next year. It could also give me a head start on retirement as my dad has told me that earlier is better with saving for retirement. Am I correct in all of that? I'm also wondering how much I can contribute. I know it's limited to "taxable income" but does that mean AGI or my total income? My AGI was roughly $3k but my total income was $250 higher since TurboTax automatically took the self-employment tax deduction. As to where to put the money, I found this internet bank that offers an 18-month CD for 2.88% APY which was the best I could find online. Would it make sense to put all $3k in that or would there be something better to do with it? Thanks! [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| I am beginning to really question my choice of buying a house. What are my best options? Posted: 24 Feb 2019 01:03 AM PST Very long story short, I bought my house fresh out of college. I purchased it for around $104,000 or so. It's a small house with about 1200 sq ft. I bought a house because everyone insisted that renting was throwing my money away. However, when I really started crunching the numbers, I am starting to wonder if this is really the case. Due to the obscene mortgage insurance and interest rate, I have only paid 12k down on the principle since February of 2014. The house has only appreciated to $119,000 according to a letter I got from the county. In that time, I have spent $4.8k on a new HVAC system, $2200 on flooring, $2k on new appliances and not insignificant amount on paint. It was a fixer-upper. I am seriously considering selling and moving into an apartment. The upkeep, lawn care, etc. doesn't seem worth it for the paltry amount that I can sell it for. I live alone and have no pets. What's the point of having a house in my situation? It's just a money sink. I would be perfectly happy with a bedroom and a tiny living room - half the rooms I have are a waste. Apartments in my area like that are <$700 a month in a very nice area. My house is in the middle of nowhere and I am sick of driving 30-45 minutes to get anywhere. Any advice? [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Young, dumb, and need help out of this hole. Posted: 24 Feb 2019 07:58 AM PST So I'm 23 yo. I am drowning in monthly credit card payments. I've cut up all of my cards and am struggling to make the payments. I have cards with the following amounts: 2k, 1400, 1k, 700, and 300. I have no savings. I thought about stopping making payments and saving money up to pay settlements before they sue me. Or I can just do my best to make minimum pmts till the end of time. What do you all think? [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Over-invested in one sector and looking to diversify Posted: 24 Feb 2019 03:00 PM PST I currently have most of my savings in FBIOX (Fidelity Biotech Select) and trying to develop a strategy to diversify into a variety of mutual funds. When I started investing, I chose one mutual fund and set up automatic deposits. Although it was a bad investment strategy I have no regrets because it forced me to invest/save on a consistent basis. By now I want to diversify my investments but don't want to sell off a lot at once because the fund has been slumping recently and I'll be selling low. Any ideas or strategies? [link] [comments]  |
| You are subscribed to email updates from Personal Finance. To stop receiving these emails, you may unsubscribe now. | Email delivery powered by Google |
| Google, 1600 Amphitheatre Parkway, Mountain View, CA 94043, United States | |
No comments:
Post a Comment