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    Personal Finance 30-Day Challenge #12: Get involved with charity! (December, 2021)

    Personal Finance 30-Day Challenge #12: Get involved with charity! (December, 2021)


    30-Day Challenge #12: Get involved with charity! (December, 2021)

    Posted: 01 Dec 2021 05:00 AM PST

    30-day challenges

    We are pleased to continue our 30-day challenge series. Past challenges can be found here.

    This month's 30-day challenge is to Get involved with charity! As the end of the year approaches, there are many opportunities to extend oneself to be generous. The best advice is to "secure your own oxygen mask first" before helping others. The foundation of your generosity should be a solid financial footing for yourself. Until you have achieved this, you should be circumspect about monetary giving.

    Monetary donations

    If you have the means, consider monetary donations as these are the most efficient use of your charitable resources. Don't spend money to buy material goods that you intend to donate unless they are specifically requested by the charity itself. Cash donations allow for flexibility for the charity to get exactly what is needed at the right time in the right quantity at the right place to serve their mission.

    Make sure you are contributing to charities that are good stewards of your hard-earned dollars by checking Charity Navigator, Give Well, or another trusted source. If you do decide to donate cash, see if your employer matches contributions to extend the benefit. You may also consider donating to a charity that has assisted you or your loved ones in the past.

    Material donations

    December is a great month in which to declutter your home, especially if you are participating in one of the many gift-giving holidays. Review your living space to determine what you can part with and how you can enjoy the reclaimed space. You can donate material goods to Habitat for Humanity, Goodwill industries, AmVets, and local options near you such as food pantries.

    Time donations

    Of course with all the donations coming in at this time of year, many organizations will need volunteers to help with the influx. If you are unable to donate money or material goods, you can consider donating your time. You can use Volunteer Match or Catch a Fire to get you started. There may also be local soup kitchens, churches, schools, or other organizations that need assistance.

    Alternative donations

    There are other ways to be charitable if you don't have spare money, goods, or time. Here are some ideas:

    • When making Amazon purchases, use the Amazon smile program to donate a portion of your purchase to a designated charity at no additional cost to you.
    • Check with your local markets and grocers to see if they have programs such as Kroger's Community Rewards to direct donations to local charities.
    • Keep an eye out for local restaurants and cafés that will donate a percentage of proceeds to charitable organizations, and patronize them during an eligible time period (schools are frequent beneficiaries of such programs).
    • The Make-a-wish foundation, the Red Cross, and Miles for Migrants all accept donations of airline miles.
    • You may be able to donate hotel or resort points. Contact the relevant hospitality group for details.
    • You can elect to donate credit card rewards to charity.
    • If your health and personal philosophy allow, consider becoming a blood/plasma donor or registering for bone marrow donation. You can also consider registering as an organ donor and revising your will to donate your body to research after you pass.

    Taxes

    Qualified charitable contributions remain tax-deductible under the new tax law in the US, but realizing a reduction in taxes is more difficult because of the increase in the standard deduction. If this is a significant factor for you, you may want to consider more advanced tax reduction strategies such as donor advised funds, giving appreciated stock, or bunching your donations to meet the itemization threshold.

    Receiving charity

    If you are in need this year, please consider being the good-faith recipient of a charity's assistance.

    Challenge success criteria

    You've successfully completed this challenge once you've done one of the following things:

    • Donated money, goods, or time to a charity or organization.
    • Made an alternative donation or plans to donate.
    • Received charitable assistance if in need.
    submitted by /u/IndexBot
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    Weekday Help and Victory Thread for the week of November 29, 2021

    Posted: 29 Nov 2021 03:00 AM PST

    If you need help, please check the PF Wiki to see if your question might be answered there.

    This thread is for personal finance questions, discussions, and sharing your success stories:

    1. Please make a top-level comment if you want to ask a question! Also, please don't downvote "moronic" questions! If you have not received your answer within 24 hours, please feel free to start a discussion.

    2. Make a top-level comment if you want to share something positive regarding your personal finances!

    A big thank you to the many PFers who take time to answer other people's questions!

    submitted by /u/IndexBot
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    My landlord wants me to pay rent using “personal/friends and family” on PayPal

    Posted: 01 Dec 2021 04:58 AM PST

    My landlord doesn't live in the US (if that matters) and has requested that I pay rent via PayPal. The first time I made the payment, I labeled it as goods and services. Shortly after, I received an email from my landlord telling me to label it as personal. This didn't sit right with me so I kept labeling it as a business transaction. Well, rent is due tomorrow and I just got an aggressive email about how rent needs to be labeled as personal and that PayPal wants "too much information" for a business transaction. I'm convinced this has to be a way to dodge taxes but I don't know enough about PayPal and how the IRS keeps track of things like this.

    Today, I decided to just give in and label it as personal since I already have a somewhat rocky relationship with the landlord. Turns out when I do that, I now have to pay the fee. Nowhere in my lease agreement does it say that I have to pay these fees. Can my landlord make me pay these fees?

    Edit - this is a reoccurring question. My lease states that I pay rent by the first of the month through PayPal using the landlords email. There are no specifics beyond this. The request to label the transaction as personal came after I had moved in. There is also no mention of paying any fees that may occur.

    Edit - from what I'm aware, this person does own the property. At least, the name on the deed and the name on the email match, not that's much to go off of. I have never met this person nor do they speak English. If I am getting scammed or someone hacked their account and is posing as them, I honestly wouldn't know. We do have a property manager who has met this person but I don't know much beyond that.

    submitted by /u/CrzPart
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    Bought our first home a year ago. Mortgage is $650/mo and we’ve been giving an extra $200. Family says to just pay the $650 and put the $200 in a savings for when we refinance.

    Posted: 01 Dec 2021 06:03 AM PST

    So my husband (29) and I (29) purchased our first home last year! We were excited as it is a new build and getting to pick the lot and seeing our house go from nothing to our home was fun! So we got a 30-year loan and gave a down payment and basically, our mortgage is $648 a month but we pay an extra $200 every month because we think this will lower our loan amount. I told my mom and she said that was fine but as someone who owns multiple homes, she told me to just give the $648 a month and out the extra $200 in a savings for when we refinance. I spoke to one of my uncles (also a multiple homeowner) and he told me the same thing. I wanted to ask you guys your thoughts on this! Should we keep giving the extra money or move that to a savings?

    EDIT: Here's some information I'm going to add because a lot of you are asking!

    Original loan amount: $129,000.00
    Current interest rate: 2.875%
    Loan type: CONVENTIONAL RES WITH PMI

    Principal Balance: $124,749.94

    submitted by /u/PossibleDoughnut
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    Can I ask for a 20K raise?

    Posted: 30 Nov 2021 05:37 PM PST

    Hi all,

    Some background: I'm a communications associate in NYC making $55K. I recently found out that my department had been willing to pay me $60K, but I asked $55K (I hate when this happens!).

    NOW: I've been there for two years and I've taken on some BIG tasks that go beyond my job's original description. One of the biggest ones has been copywriting the CEO's weekly emails to all staff/board. I feel like I'm grossly underpaid. I recently looked and they're hiring two new positions in my department (which has decreased due to people leaving). For these new positions, both associate level, they're willing to pay anywhere from 60K-65K.

    Now, I think I deserve to make just as much, if not more, given my responsibilities. Part of me would like to ask for 75K, as that feels like a decent amount more than the new people, respective not only of my tasks but also my longer time there.

    Is that reasonable? Or will I be laughed out?

    submitted by /u/Berryberryberryokay
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    Is it unwise to give more than a two week notice if you like your boss/company and want to maintain professional connections?

    Posted: 01 Dec 2021 10:20 AM PST

    I recently got an offer for 60% more than I make now, and as much as I like my current employer, I signed and start in January.

    This company and both managers I've worked under have been excellent and I worry about leaving them in a bind (there's someone that could be trained to take my spot, but it would be a while before she's autonomous). I would like to maintain professional connections as much as possible.

    I think I could give notice now and still stay through 12/31, but I'm out a few thousand dollars if it doesn't pan out that way. Does it make more sense to wait until the two week mark and just bust my ass for them during that time instead?

    submitted by /u/captainangus
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    My partner pays me rent for a home I own that we live in together. Do I need to report this as income?

    Posted: 01 Dec 2021 05:24 AM PST

    Just as the title says. I own a home that my unmarried partner lives in with me. They pay me rent that is under market rate. Is this income that needs to be reported to the IRS?

    My intuition tells me yes, but that the tax liability would be zero since the rent is below market rate and I'm still paying my mortgage.

    Edit: this has gotten way more attention than I anticipated. It seems like the opinions here are across the board. For those that are asking, yes I 100% see my partner as a contributing member to our household. We are a team. The home and mortgage happens to be in my name because we are not married. Owning a home is a goal I was working towards before we started dating and it became a reality recently. My partner and I have been together for 3 years and I would love for them to live with me. They offered to pay a portion of the monthly expenses before I even asked because they felt it was fair. We both see this as a mutually beneficial arrangement. They will be paying way less than they would if they were to rent an apartment themselves, and I am not entirely giving up the opportunity cost of renting a room out in my house which is what I would have done if they were not in the picture. I am just trying to work out the logistics.

    submitted by /u/StrongBat
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    Advice To Avoid Lifestyle Creep

    Posted: 01 Dec 2021 08:45 AM PST

    Hi PF,

    I was wondering if anyone has been in a similar situation as me and could offer advice.

    28(m) with no college degree and I recently went from making $60kUSD to $200kUSD and I want to try and avoid lifestyle creep.

    I grew up poor and no one in my family is financially iliterate. My brother has been tempting me to buy a new truck. I worked hard over the last three years paying off my student loans, credit cards, and my car to be completely out of debt before I had this kind of salary.

    I only have $10kUSD in an old 401k but have held off contributing to a new one to try and save up for a house purchase next year.

    I'm tempted to buy a new car but would hate to put a lot of money into a depreciating asset and would rather put the money from a car payment elsewhere.

    My rent is only $1000 a month. Insurance, food, phone, gas, etc is $1000 a month as well(probably less but I'll round up).

    Anything obvious I should be doing? Any advice on things to avoid? Thanks in advance.

    submitted by /u/throwaway9408373
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    When I turn 18 can I keep the money I've obtained?

    Posted: 30 Nov 2021 03:33 PM PST

    As a 16 year old kid I've worked at my job for over 16 months now and I've made a what I think for my age is a relatively large amount of money. I've made about 10000 dollars. My parents take 75 percent of what I make for college loans and car insurance in the future. I'm aware that is their money currently because I am a minor but my question is that after I turn 18 is it illegal if they do not turn my money over if I desire it? I have been threatened that they will not give any of it to me or that or it will just sit there after I turn 18 if I stop missing the bus or don't get better grades. I worked my ass off for what I made/make and I do not know if these are scare tactics. Also would I be able to go to court if they still refused? I am curious. Please let me know

    submitted by /u/OsuClutcher
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    is it possible for me (f61 widow) to retire by 67?

    Posted: 01 Dec 2021 12:15 AM PST

    Posting on behalf of my mother - Thank you in advance for your help.

    Based on what I've previously seen in posts asking for this type of help is lack of details, hopefully my mom provided enough of those - if she failed to mention critical information, please tell & I will promptly reply.

    My husband unexpectedly died at the age of 61 two years ago. Shame on us, we never really took time to understand our own investments or the products we were sold many years ago. The accounts were set up & that was that... This has now left me lost and scurrying to understand all things personal finance and retirement hoping I am not to late.

    For the past two years my son has been slowly attempting to help sort out my personal finances and help me understand the various investment accounts I currently have. That being said, I am now trying to make a financial plan to see if it will possible for me to comfortably retire within the next 6 years (Age 67 in late 2027) or get an estimation of when I eventually will be able to.

    My son has me using You Need A Budget (YNAB) for the past 8 months to help me understand where my money needs to be and where it's going & plan for any true upcoming expenses. This has been helpful to track all my accounts.

    I have no dependents and below is an overview of my finances as of this month (12/2021).

    NETWORTH: $885k

    • Checking: $10k
    • Savings: $48k (0.40% APY)
    • Retirement accounts: $588k
    • Home estimated value: $280k
    • Mortgage: -$50k

    PERSONAL FINANCE BREAKDOWN:

    • SAVINGS BREAKDOWN
      • Emergency Fund: $14k (~5 month)
      • Investment Fund: $7k (Ready to front load Roth IRA 01/2022)
      • Estate Planning Fund: $2k (once retirement accounts are sorted - I would like to put together a Will and or Living Trust)
      • Sinking Funds for upcoming: $27k (overhead sewers, fence, awnings, bathroom remodel, garage roof)
    • INCOME MONTHLY
      • $2,855 ($34,267/yr net)
    • EXPENSES MONTHLY
      • Average Expenses: $2,600 ($30k/yr)
    • DEBT
      • Mortgage: -$50k ($485mo | Interest Rate 2.875% | Maturity Date 10/01/2031)
    • INVESTMENT ASSET BREAKDOWN
      • VANGUARD - Roth IRA
        • Open Date: 2021
        • Portfolio Balance: $15,876.92
        • Total Deposits: 14,000
        • Asset Allocation: Vanguard Total Stock Market Index Fund (VTSAX)

    • WELLS FARGO - IRA
      • Total contributions: ~~~~~
      • Portfolio Balance: $103,312.83

    • TALCOTT - 401(a) Qualified Plan
      • Issue Date: 1994
      • Total Deposits: ~~~~
      • Accumulated Value: $115,991.10
      • Cash Surrender Value: $115,991.10
      • Cash Surrender Charge Amount: ~~~~

    • JACKSON - IRA- Annuity
      • Issue Date: 1997
      • Total Deposits: $13,769.23
      • Accumulated Value: $33,540.15
      • Average Interest Rate: 3.00%
      • Cash Surrender Value: $33,540.15
      • Cash Surrender Charge Amount: $0.00
      • Maturity/Income Date**:**12/03/2029

    • LINCOLN - IRA - Variable Annuity
      • Issue Date: 1994
      • Total Deposits: $21,564.88
      • Accumulated Value: $141,675.14
      • Average Interest Rate: ~~~~
      • Cash Surrender Value: $141,640.14
      • Cash Surrender Charge Amount: $0.00

    • WILCAC - Flexible Extended Annuity
      • Contract Date: 05/03/1989
      • Total Deposits: ~~~~
      • Accumulated Value: $120,242.29
      • Average Interest Rate: ~~~~
      • Cash Surrender Value:
      • Cash Surrender Charge Amount:

    • TRANSAMERICA - HSA - Healthcare Funding Plan
      • Plan Balance: $1,054.66
      • Only $20 from my paycheck is deposited

    • JPM - JPMorgan Chase & Co.
      • Portfolio Balance: $5,703.55
    • EMPLOYER PLAN - 457(b)
      • Balance: $0.00
      • Account has not been setup but eligible to make contributions via my employer.

    GENERAL QUESTIONS

    • FINANCIAL ADVISOR
      • Should I seek advice from a fee only financial advisor?
      • How does one find a trustworthy, fiduciary, fee only advisor?
      • How much is reasonable to pay a fee only financial advisor?
    • INVESTMENTS
      • How would you simplify this investment portfolio?
        • Would you open a IRA with Vangaurd and roll over Wells Fargo IRA, Talcott 401(a), Jackson IRA, Lincoln IRA?
        • The Wilcac Annuity is not inside of an IRA so I presume it's not eligible for a rollover into an IRA - Would you cash out of the Wilcac Annuity?
        • What type of account would you deposit the cash from Wilcac into?
      • Is a 401(a) Qualified plan eligible for a direct rollover?
      • Per my conversations with these companies - rolling over the annuities inside of IRA using a direct rollover should NOT impose any tax implications - How can I be sure of this?
      • Assuming the direct IRA roll over & consolidation of retirements funds is an okay idea, does any one have recommendations on what investments may be wise considering my situation?
        • is a target date fund my best bet?
      • These accounts were setup 25+ years ago and haven't really been managed since. Not really even positive what the asset allocation is on these accounts or what they should be.. Do you have advice on how to decide asset allocation?
      • JPM Stock $5,703.55 - Would you sell? What investment account would you deposit cash into?
      • Would you begin to contribute to employer 457(b) plan?
      • Considering a modest monthly pension ($610 @ retirement) and social security check($1700 @ Age 66.5), Is it possible using the 4% rule for me to retire in at least 6 years comfortably with out draining my retirement accounts in my life time?
    • HEALTH CARE IN RETIREMENT
      • Currently I am relatively health and take no medications.
      • How should I plan for health care costs as I age?
      • How to know if I will be able to afford Medicare in retirement?
      • Is long term care insurance worth investing in?
      • My mother died last year at 84 ultimately from becoming so weak after last several years of life in and out of hospital.
      • My father is 87 and living independently
    • MORTGAGE
      • Will I be okay to retire with a mortgage?
        • $485mo | Interest Rate 2.875% | Maturity Date 10/01/2031 | Will be age 71
      • Estimated Balance on 07/2027 $22k - ideal retirement date
      • If retiring with a mortgage is not recommended:
        • Should I continue to work until 68 and use my S.S. Survivor benefit ($1700) at age 67 for about 9 months to pay down the rest of the mortgage to be 100% debt free?
        • Should I continue to work until 68 and stock pile my monthly S.S. Survivor benefit ($1700) for a year ($20k) & make minimum mortgage payments until 2031 but build this savings into my emergency fund?
    • ESTATE PLANNING?
      • When should I setup a Will/Living Trust? I don't want my children to have to go to probate.
        • Should I wait until after I consolidate my assets?
        • Currently no form of Will.
        • I want to simplify and consolidate retirement accounts
        • The beneficiaries on my retirement accounts are all up to date.
        • My mortgage/house and car are in my name.
      • How do I know if i need a Will, Living Trust (Revocable or Irrevocable) or both Will and Living Trust?
      • How much does getting a Will and Living Trust cost?
      • How to find an Estate Planning Attorney who know how to help my children avoid probate?
      • $55k Life Insurance policy provided by Employer (policy void upon departure from employment)
    submitted by /u/btfftb
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    Married couple with different investing strategies

    Posted: 01 Dec 2021 12:15 PM PST

    My spouse and I are pretty basic in terms of our investing strategies. We share all assets so we don't really have our own "separate" funds for investing purposes. Generally, we put money in the mkt every month (index funds) and don't plan to touch it until retirement. Lately, one of us has been bearish/worried about a market correction and would prefer to stop throwing in money monthly, while just holding until the correction occurs. The other person wants to keep contributing monthly as usual, with the mindset being that "time in the market beats timing the market."

    My question is: how do you and your spouse decide/choose/compromise on investment strategies if you both have different opinions on the matter?

    submitted by /u/AdPositive2054
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    Dealership won't honor factory warranty for new car

    Posted: 30 Nov 2021 07:12 PM PST

    I bought a 2019 nissan altima new about 2.5 years ago so the factory warranty is still in effect. About a month ago I started to have radar issue (it disables itself) and brought it into the dealership expecting a factory swap. I have no after-market mods nor accident of any sorts. Today I was told that I need to pay out of pocket because the internal radar bracket has bent and the dealership wants to charge me $100 for bracket, $900 for labor, and $1000 for a new radar.

    From my perspective, I have always followed the proper maintainces and drove as intended. Yet, the part just failed so it would make sense to have it covered under factory warranty. Talked to the manager and he claimed that some rocks probably went inside the car and happen to only hit the bracket to bent it up (~90 deg) so I will have to pay. Talked to the service advisor and he said he always replace the radar and mount together (what?) and I don't even know where to start with the $900 labor.

    At the very least, if the bracket is somehow bent without any exterior damage, I would be ok with replacing the bracket (official part website listed it as $50) + labor for calibrating the radar. But asking me to pull 3k out of no where (no prior communication through this whole month) is not sitting very well with me and I feel like they are trying to pull a fast one on me. What could I do? I just want my car to work.

    Update: Called the Nissan Corporate and got the region manager's number. She advised me to take it to anther dealership and reach back out to her if they still can't resolve the issue. Thanks again for all the helpful advice reddit!

    submitted by /u/love_echo24
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    Former employer trying to collect PTO months later

    Posted: 01 Dec 2021 10:54 AM PST

    My former employer has come back months later, and is trying to "collect" on what they claim is negative PTO that they say I have to pay back.

    1. The software with which PTO was approved showed a positive balance on my last day. You select the date and it says "accruals on this date" and the balance was still positive. I have a printout.
    2. Company says the software was incorrect and shows non-accrued time, even though you have to select "accruals on X date". How is the balance being calculated at all???
    3. So, company says I'm in the negative even though the PTO approval software doesn't show that. All my time was approved by manager and HR and I never received any messages saying I had a negative balance.
    4. Nor did company deduct from my final paycheck. I found out via this weird "collections" letter that wants me to pay by a certain date. They say if I pay by this date I don't have to pay the full taxable amount.
    5. The negative PTO, which I couldn't see in their own software, was not brought to my attention during the separation process.
    6. I honestly had NO idea that I had negative PTO. I was operating under the balance remaining in the their system, which has never been negative. They keep saying my screenshots of the system don't matter??? Why don't they matter???? They speak to the erroneous information I was given by them.

    Can they collect after the fact like this at all? How was I supposed to know I was in negative PTO when the software was wrong? Why didn't they deduct it from my final paycheck or even give me a heads up when they approved the PTO that it was "invisibly" negative balance?

    I have faxed, mailed, and emailed debt validation letters to the sender of the demand letter. The email I got back was "I'm only in collections, call HR if you need to dispute." A few weeks ago, I did talk to someone in HR who said they would try to figure it out, whatever that means. Now this one HR rep is out of town, and will be out of town until after the deadline before I am sent to a "real" collections agency. If I call the HR number now, it is a 2+ hour wait time, only to get someone in India who says they will transfer me to the same rep I already talked to, who is out of town.

    submitted by /u/botanicalbird
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    How to help a family member avoid homelessness without moving them in, as cheaply as possible?

    Posted: 01 Dec 2021 08:24 AM PST

    Long story short: My sister needs to move out of her home because the condition has gotten so bad that the HOA is demanding she move out. She cannot live with us, at least not for very long, as she was terribly abusive to my mother, who I take care of, when she lived with us. My mother won't let her go homeless or else I lose the relationship with my mom myself.

    I think keeping my relationship with my mom is worth it, up to a point. I'm willing to spend up to $40k or so on this situation (coming from my mom's income first), but any more will cause a huge strain on my finances that isn't worth it when I have my own future to take care of (my salary is $90k and combined with my mom's income we get about $100k). Otherwise, I will have to leave and never speak to my mom again. There are no other options, I'm not living with my abuser again, but I love my mom.

    So far, I've looked into buying old mobile homes in trailer parks for $10-20k, but then I would have to pay at least part of the lot rent for as long as my sister is living there, which is $500+ per month in most places. My sister gets around $700 per month, so she can pay some, but not everything. She's on the waitlist for a public housing complex in her area, but there's no telling when she'll get off.

    Also thought about buying land and putting a tiny home on it, but no idea what that process is like or how long it would take. No idea what is the cheapest or best option (other than just leaving of course lol).

    This is in the Northeast PA / Poconos area, if that is helpful at all. Does anyone have any ideas?

    submitted by /u/3-GEN
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    Purely remote state job requires working in state...why?

    Posted: 30 Nov 2021 07:33 AM PST

    Idaho, USA. Has anyone ever heard of this before or know why they'd require this? It's my girlfriend's job, and she hasn't raised much of a fuss about this yet, but she thinks it's for tax reasons (doesn't make any sense to me). I work for a very different branch of state government and there's nothing like that for us (but a lot less employee oversight in general in my workplace).

    Edit: I wasn't clear--they aren't talking about where we live, they're talking about where we conduct work. We can't work remotely out of state even if we're obviously just traveling. So this wouldn't necessarily involve a change of residence.

    submitted by /u/foodtower
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    I need to get surgery next month. Not sure what plan to get from the Marketplace

    Posted: 01 Dec 2021 12:54 PM PST

    I need to get gallbladder removal surgery in January. My employer does not offer health insurance. I need to pick up a plan off the marketplace, and I really can't figure out what I need to be looking at to make sure my gallbladder surgery would be at least mostly covered. What should I look for? I make around $40k a year and don't have much of a savings, and the surgery would need to be next month.

    submitted by /u/jetteroshannon
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    Company won’t deposit my 401k contribution.

    Posted: 01 Dec 2021 04:38 AM PST

    Idk if I'm in the right sub to ask this, if im not I apologize.

    A co-worker wanted to take a loan out from his 401k and was denied because he hadn't contributed to it in months. It led down a path were we all discovered the company was taking the money out of our checks, but not depositing it into 401k accounts. Once brought up it was corrected. Shortly their after it started happening again. What recourse do I have to resolve this? Quitting is not really an option.

    submitted by /u/JCOII
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    Very tough time deciding if I should leave my current job or not

    Posted: 01 Dec 2021 07:32 AM PST

    Currently I work in IT north of DC for an aerospace contractor. I'm routinely applying to jobs I see with other companies just to get a feel what's out there and ultimately what I'm worth. Currently I'm at 107k but have now been offered 120k and 135k doing similar roles. I declined the first but am absolutely torn on the second.


    Pros of current:

    1. The objective of the group I'm with is very cool both personally and to anyone I decide to tell.

    2. Split travel amongst the group all over the world rotating between a dozen locations on a 3 year rotation...anywhere from Europe to Antarctica to name a couple.

    3. Can get by doing relatively little work.

    4. Group is the same age, thus relatable

    5. flexible work hours

    Cons:

    1. Two of my 7 team members have gotten a bit power hungry and have become rather arrogant when maybe they shouldn't be

    2. Management is in the way of us keeping up to date with standard industry tools/kind of stagnate

    3. Routine raises have been tough the last couple years, and likely wouldn't be better until 2023 because of funding


    New Job Pros:

    1. 30% pay increase + better title

    2. likely way better career move in terms of what I'll be exposed to relating to IT

    Neutral:

    1. 15 days PTO compared to 19 to start but would go to 20 then 25 with 4 to 9 years tenure (I've never stayed anywhere past 3)

    cons:

    1. opposite of current pros, though the mission of this would still be relatively cool

    2. has the potential like any other new job to blow dick


    It's tough for me and I'm sure anyone else to walk from that type of money, and I'm hesitant to bring it up for appearing as a flight risk, though we struggle to get quality members added to the team and have constant openings.

    Is there a clear winner for anyone?

    submitted by /u/singelic
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    Should I just invest solely in index funds since I’m so young?

    Posted: 30 Nov 2021 06:36 AM PST

    I am 18F, I have a Roth IRA with 4K in it and I plan to max it out next year and have 10K in it. I have about 16% in bonds and 16% in international index funds. The rest is in domestic(US) market index funds and a little in a tech mutual fund. I hear some people recommending diversifying into bonds and international and some who recommend just putting it into index funds since you are so young. I assume both have validity but should I maybe move some of my bonds/international into domestic market index funds.

    Edit: Thank y'all so much for all your advice. I'm still reading over it all, but I've learned a lot and will take it into account when adjusting my allocation.

    submitted by /u/Riza101z
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    Ally just sent a marketing email referring to me as the wrong name

    Posted: 30 Nov 2021 05:30 PM PST

    I have an account with Ally, and they are always sending me marketing emails of course. Most recently they sent me one referring to me as "Ronald". I only noticed when they sent a follow-up email telling me they have no idea why they called me Ronald but they promise my money is still super safe with them. My name isn't even close to Ronald (I am not even a man) and nobody I know is named Ronald or anything close to it. Did this happen to anyone else? How worried should I be about the security of my account?

    submitted by /u/wonton_fool
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    At What Point Does Home Insurance Become Unaffordable?

    Posted: 30 Nov 2021 08:03 PM PST

    Our offer of $375,000 got accepted a few days ago and we are trying to get insurance quotes, however the house is in a very small unincorporated community with apparent high wildfire danger, so no insurance companies will touch it. We have gotten quotes saying it can be covered under a FAIR plan, but the premiums are around $8,000 a year. One of them even had a $22,000 deductible.

    Is $8K a year way too much to spend on insurance for a $375K house? We are thinking this might be a deal breaker.

    submitted by /u/aventale
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    Bank card info stolen

    Posted: 01 Dec 2021 01:21 PM PST

    I am wondering if anyone has ever encountered this and If so what are the best actions I can take to prevent this from 1)getting worse and 2)happening again. One night after work I noticed I had gotten 50+ emails randomly.. what was odd was many were random gov emails such as dept of state, national institute of nursing research, small business administration among others etc.. and all of them were thanking me for subscribing.. so naturally I was very alarmed.. upon further review I noticed service "thank you for your orders" from various stores, in total about 1k worth of stuff was purchased on my bank card from various online stores.. I immediately contacted my bank and cancelled my card and they suggested I file a police report which I did. Was my info stolen from online database of some sort? Because I found it extremely odd that someone made these purchases, and I received an email about it, along with a huge influx of subscriptions to various gov websites and stuff. Since I discovered this I have been refunded but I'm extremely paranoid and concerned about further damage. Even today I got an email from fed ex thanking me for making an account. This leads me to believe someone tried tracking the package they fraudulently ordered from my account. The email had my user ID which was created by someone else.. and I changed the password and tried to see what info was there. When I chanted the password and reviewed the profile it in fact had my name, email address, phone numbers, and a previous address I lived at. I really just want this to be over and have never experienced this and was looking for any advice. Any help is greatly appreciated!!

    submitted by /u/Hitman2504
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    The dreaded salary range question

    Posted: 30 Nov 2021 07:13 AM PST

    I'm hoping that someone can help me out. A little background information here. I've been applying for jobs in the last few months, and potentially looking to leave my current company. My current company notoriously pays under market value, and I'm not really seeing any room for growth, and getting a raise is like pulling teeth. I've been at my current company for 4 years, and in my role as an Sales Enablement/Competitive Intelligence Analyst (which would be the role I'm looking for) for the last year. I have about 6 years experience in the field all together. I am currently remote, and I"m looking at only remote roles.

    With all that said, I've been looking at roles in the CI space, and depending on the title, the salary is super inconsistent. For example, if it's categorized under a Product Manager the market average is around 113k but if it's categorized under a CI Analyst the market average is around 81k- but the job responsibilities are all the same. Knowing that my salary falls around 70k, and I'm inevitably being asked what my salary range is, what is a fair amount to ask for? I really don't want to leave money on the table, but I also don't want to outprice myself when the ultimate goal is to make more money than I'm currently making. I also know that there is more to consider (401k match, overall benefits package), but I'm just trying to get past the initial phone screening.

    Any insight would be greatly appreciated!

    Edit: thank you everyone for the responses. I didn't expect so many! This definitely gives me a lot to think about. Also, after further research, the recruiter had referred to it as a Product Manager role , and when I went back and reviewed my application, it was actually listed as a Product Marketing Manager, which is typical of a CI position. A Product Marketing Manager still makes more than an Analyst, so the question was still very relevant and I've gotten a lot of insight.

    submitted by /u/Chmpgn_prblms
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    Vehicle Leasing Question

    Posted: 01 Dec 2021 12:55 PM PST

    Greetings, My wife is looking at a new vehicle and wants a lease because she doesn't plan to keep it more than a couple years till we move. I have always financed/purchased my vehicles so I'm not sure what to look at or what good leasing terms are in the current environment. Do these numbers make sense? Should I be looking at or asking about anything else?

    MSRP 33 985
    Selling price 32 735
    Accessories/Security Etch 299
    Gov fee 181.47
    Doc fee 394
    Residual value 20 731

    Term-36 months
    Annual Allotment-12k miles

    $4000 down - $426/mo
    $4500 - $411/mo
    $5000- $395/mo

    submitted by /u/Uleepera
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    Branching into taxable funds. Allocation and after-tax 401k advice

    Posted: 01 Dec 2021 10:04 AM PST

    After sleuthing personal finance and bogelheads I've been successful at maxing out my Roth IRA for the past few years and finally opened a solo 401k through my LLC at E-Trade and have maxed my personal contribution for this year. I don't have an HSA available to me and theres a good chance I wont be able to fund my Roth IRA this year due to making more than the income limit.

    Currently my 401k is a 70/20/10 split between VTSAX, VTIAX, VBTLX.
    My Roth IRA, which was set up with a financial advisor before I knew better, is a Blackrock iShares mutual fund of some sort. My intention is to move this away from the financial advisor into my own managed Roth IRA account.

    Is it advisable to have my normal taxable account mirror my 401k or should I look at other similar low cost index funds? I've read a little bit about wash sales when having the same funds in multiple accounts so I want to be mindful of that but I also don't intend on selling during any loss periods, I'm in for the long haul. If I'm misunderstanding the concept I'm happy to be be corrected.

    I also read some posts advising after tax 401k contributions potentially being a smarter next move before a straight taxable account. From what I understand it sounds like it has the potential to accrue more wealth but with the caveat that its locked up and not liquid. Are there other rules or aspects to be mindful of?

    My last primary question I have holding me back from investing yesterday is about my general allocation. I saw several posts advising international funds to be in taxable accounts instead due to potential tax credits. With this should I move my VTIAX into a taxable account while maintaining my 70/20/10 ratio across all accounts?

    Thanks for all your help and insight.

    submitted by /u/-Legface_McCullen-
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    How to shop mortgage rates?

    Posted: 01 Dec 2021 12:48 PM PST

    I went through an "advanced" approval process for a jumbo loan with Wells Fargo and Ive been looking for a home for the last 8 months. During this time, they've updated the approval every 3 months. We are in a bidding war and close to getting a house so I called the employee I've been dealing with at Wells Fargo about the rate and she said "we just got a rate improvement at 2.875%. It wont last long so I'd do what you can." and I said "well I am concerned with accepting a deal, waiting for inspection and then rate goes up to 3.1%" and she said "what I can do for you is lock you in at it if you're telling me you're going to go for it".

    How does this work? Is this like a sales tactic on their part? I told her I'd be ok with that but if I do have my offer on the house accepted, can I contact another lender to see if they can beat that rate?

    submitted by /u/TasteExpress4495
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    Never received hospital bill in Texas

    Posted: 01 Dec 2021 09:50 AM PST

    In early January this year I had an emergency visit to a local hospital/ER in Texas. Because of being busy with COVID patients and their inability to do anything in a timely manner I ended up spending two nights despite being a pretty easy diagnosis and a diagnosis not being needed to be done in the hospital after the initial treatment. Anyways, the hospital billed by insurance pretty quickly and some changes were partially paid by insurance, others adjusted to $0. I got some bills for some of the doctor/nurse charges and paid them, but I never got the big bill (~$3k) despite it having been sent to my insurance.

    Texas.gov has the following statement for the Timely Billing law "Texas has a law requiring that health care service providers bill a patient no later than the first day of the 11th month after services were provided."

    The hospital stay was in early January, so from my math they had until today to get me the bill. Is that correct? And if correct will this amount count as income in the same way as a waived collections debt? Thanks.

    submitted by /u/MrBlockhead
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