Personal Finance My movers never charged me, and I’ve constantly emailed them about it. Is this a problem? What should I do? |
- My movers never charged me, and I’ve constantly emailed them about it. Is this a problem? What should I do?
- The power of the 401K, DCA, and compound interest - A Personal Account
- Contribute to a 401k with no match?
- Tow company charging me twice. They lied about refunding me and Citi is refusing my charge dispute
- Car Buying Without Deception - "If they know you're willing to walk away, it doesn't matter what you say." Agree or Disagree?
- Is it worth it to start a savings/retirement/emergency fund for my parents?
- Why does the thought of putting down 20% on a house seem so daunting?
- Ticketmaster won’t pay out and no support at all
- Is it weird to offer to set up a college fund for a friend's baby?
- Chase has locked my card due to a fraud alert.
- 401(k) Plan, match 100% fully vested - how do I get through to my young staff to participate?
- Company whats to buy my shares. Do I have an option not to sell back?
- 401k to Roth while still employed?
- Should I take a 22% pay cut in the short term for the potential to make 79% more in the long term?
- Dentist said I needed perio treatment & deep cleaning…
- New baby is two weeks old. Wife’s using disability then paid family leave. Rather than use IRS calculator I just updated my w4 with the “$2000” amount. Now my check has zero fed taxes.
- (US) How exactly does one shop for auto insurance nowadays?
- College student in MA responsible for my rent and food this semester. Currently working two jobs while full time student, are there any government assistance programs I am eligible for?
- When is it a good idea to take out a loan for a house?
- Old job wants me back - what to do with potential offer?
- What to do with title in South Carolina?
- Just opened a Roth IRA with Fidelity. What is the Fidelity equivalent of VTWAX/VTSAX?
| Posted: 08 Sep 2021 05:58 AM PDT I recently started a new a job and had to move closer to the office so work gave me a stipend to cover that. I went with a moving company I've used before, I paid the moving deposit using my credit card. Day of the move comes, and it goes smooth at the end the movers are supposed to bill me using their system but the system was down so he said he'd send me a bill via email. I was sent the bill, but no method to pay. I've called them, and emailed them and was told they would send me a secure payment link. Still haven't received it lol and that was 2 weeks ago. I'm wondering if this is something that I should be putting more urgency on? Will they do their financials in a year from now and send my account to collections? I'm not sure what I should do here. [link] [comments]  |
| The power of the 401K, DCA, and compound interest - A Personal Account Posted: 08 Sep 2021 05:38 PM PDT I just threw together a very rough spreadsheet of my account growth over 10 years on my 401K and took a screen shot to share, but turns out images aren't allowed. I care little for bragging but we give people the advice to save to their 401k and roths regularly enough yet with little of verified examples to show them. The spreadsheet showed how around year 7 the gains from investments actually started becoming a larger contributor to my account increase than my contribution and employee match combined. Meaning the point where you and your employer deposit $10K that year, but the investments themselves added $12k. At that point, your past money is becoming the biggest net contributor to the growth of your net worth, instead of your current work based contribution. It is when you have successfully arrived at a point where your account will start feeding itself faster than you can. It doesn't sound nearly as powerful in cheap words without seeing the numbers. But I'll offer these numbers directly. In the last ten years... I have contributed to my 401K: My employer has contributed: My gains from investments alone (previous contributions, dollar cost averaging, and compound interest): Total combined ROI on my personal contribution over 10 years: The $50,119.62 that I invested over 10 years, today stands at: I wanted to share this because people need a more real life understanding of the power of the employer matching 401K, dollar cost averaging, and compound interest. And you achieve this without lifting a finger. Just pick the funds that have the right risk exposure for you by analyzing the funds performance over 1 year, 3 years, 5 years, 10-15 years. If it looks solid and consistent then put most of your eggs in that basket, then another one that looks like a powerhouse just not as consistent put a lesser amount of eggs in there. If you have a potential need for the money in 10 years or less, then take less risks/less reward. But once you make your mind, just let it do its thing. It doesn't need you. And if anything, the employee match will give you an immediate 100% return anyway. In the first 5 years on this account I was much more scared and conservative because I was scared from being burnt on my 401K more than 10 years previously when I didn't know anything. So the investment gains were less than 10% of the entire account increase that year including mine and employer contributions. Once I shifted money to different more aggressive funds, then the investments started contributing 40-60% of the total growth on the account. Really, it makes more sense with the spreadsheet image that I couldn't share. Anyway, I wanted to take the opportunity to share how $50k spread out over 10 years can equal more than 3 times your investment in that time. If you're slacking on designating your income percentage to a 401k at least to the point that your employer will match....then stop waiting and just do it. Alter your life in others ways if you must (and you should), but stop putting it off. PS...I still have another 20 years to go before even considering retirement so this will go on multiplying exponentially on its own. [link] [comments]  |
| Contribute to a 401k with no match? Posted: 08 Sep 2021 07:32 AM PDT Hello, I just landed my first ever 'real' job after doing Uber for years. I am making $54k a year and finally hit 3 months at the company so I'm eligible for the 401k plan. However, they do not match. Should I still contribute? Right now, I'm just contributing to my Roth IRA. The expense ratios are also really bad with the lowest being 1.8%. [link] [comments]  |
| Tow company charging me twice. They lied about refunding me and Citi is refusing my charge dispute Posted: 08 Sep 2021 12:58 PM PDT Hired a tow company after an accident and paid them via credit card. After taking my car to the body shop they told me that since the repair would be covered by my insurance, they'd void the transaction and put the charge on the bill the body shop would give me. That was fine by me since having it covered by insurance would be better than paying out of pocket for me. Except they never voided the transaction. I called them five times, each time they said they would make sure it was voided/refunded. After that I called them and the manager said he would send me the money directly (red flag). Never received it, called him again, he said he was sure he'd sent it and that it should've gone through. At this point I was pretty fed up and filed a dispute with Citi. I explained the situation and showed them the charge to my card, and the charge from the autoshop, however Citi decided that I'm responsible for both charges. I wasn't exactly shocked to hear this, Citi has been absolutely useless any time I've needed to file a dispute, even in the most flagrant situations, but at this point I'm not sure what else I can do. I tried contacting Citi to see if there was any other information I can give but customer service sends me to disputes, and disputes sends me back to customer service. Is there anything I can do at this point? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 08 Sep 2021 04:39 PM PDT I've been thinking of replacing my car lately, and have been reading up on how to get a good deal. I've negotiated other things before, but this will be my first time buying a car. A lot of what I read that say things along the lines of "don't tell them you love the car" seem to have to do with not giving away that you're already overly invested, or desperate to buy something today. I believe that deception is only useful when you're in a position of weakness and trying to hide it, but that all those tricks are unnecessary if you simply know what you're willing to pay ahead of time and will walk away if you don't like their offer. As I see it, if informed and uninvested, none of their tricks can work and there's no secret weakness to accidentally give away. "I love this car" goes from the subtext of "and I just might pay anything to get it" to "so what can you do for me to make it worth buying it from you over other dealerships?" Thoughts? [link] [comments]  |
| Is it worth it to start a savings/retirement/emergency fund for my parents? Posted: 08 Sep 2021 12:01 PM PDT My mom and dad turn 57 and 55, respectively, in a few months. My dad has been unemployed for almost 5 years and my mom does not have a retirement plan that she's been contributing to at her current job of nearly 15 years. My idea is for my sister and I to open an account (and I don't know what kind) where we each contribute a set amount each month in the event that something happens to one of my parents and they are unable to afford it themselves. They're both not ever going to be able to retire, and I feel my sister and I should have at least some sort of emergency fund in the event something happens to either of them. Basically, is it worth it for us to try to save for them at this point? Would even 10 to 15 years of contributions to an IRA or something be enough to help with potential medical bills, or is it too far gone? Is there anything else we can do? Any help is greatly appreciated!! [link] [comments]  |
| Why does the thought of putting down 20% on a house seem so daunting? Posted: 08 Sep 2021 08:00 PM PDT Hey all, thanks in advance for taking the time to read this. I'll just get right into it. I was involved in an accident where the other party was at fault. It's finally coming to a conclusion and after it's all said and done I'm going to net about $170k tax free. After paying off some credit card debt and an outstanding personal loan I had taken out I'll be sitting at about $155k remaining. I presently live in Denver and make about $92k/yr and am likely going to get a 4-6% raise this month. I have my 401k set to 7% and my company matches that to 4%. My monthly expenses after eliminating debt payments will be car insurance (car is paid off)/renters insurance, internet, electric, storage unit, & rent which comes out to about $1.6k/month. What little savings I had was wiped out after the accident so I'm not really working with much outside of this money coming in. I will likely need to have a knee replacement or two at some point down the line but I would say those are both 10yrs+ down the road. I would really like to buy a house in the Denver metro but the idea of putting $75-100k(20%) down on a house is kind of hard to think about. Houses are about $500k in the Denver metro and I have no desire to leave. I would like to make this money work for me as much as possible as I know $150k isn't really all that much, but I just want to make sure I'm going about this the right way. So just looking for guidance in general I guess. Thanks again for following along if you did! [link] [comments]  |
| Ticketmaster won’t pay out and no support at all Posted: 08 Sep 2021 07:21 AM PDT I bought tickets from Ticketmaster to a concert that happened this past weekend on 9/3. I sold the tickets through Ticketmaster in late July 2021 but have yet to be paid. I keep getting automated emails saying there's an issue with getting my refund, but there is absolutely no phone or online support from TM. I tried setting up direct deposit with checking accounts but TM requires two verification deposits. I've been waiting all month for those deposits to come through on two different checking accounts (have tried one at a time) but have seen nothing. Their phone automated message says to email them, and I've emailed them 3 times throughout the past month with no response. Any advice? [link] [comments]  |
| Is it weird to offer to set up a college fund for a friend's baby? Posted: 08 Sep 2021 07:51 PM PDT I want to offer something meaningful to my friend of 15 years. I know she cares about sustainability and meaningful gifts - I don't see her often and probably won't be a huge part of the baby's life, even though they mean a lot to me. I want to get something thoughtful and lasting, not toys or clothes they will grow out of. I don't know if I will have my own kids and I have enough disposable income to do this. It is a bit unconventional - I am not a godparent or aunt. Has anyone done this? Is it too invasive? I will of course ask her at some point but I also feel like she will say "omg no!" because it seems like a lot/people don't really talk about finances. Also, what is a normal amount/arrangement for a college fund? [link] [comments]  |
| Chase has locked my card due to a fraud alert. Posted: 08 Sep 2021 02:49 PM PDT Ok so I'm going to try and make this digestible. I moved to the UK three weeks ago to attend a masters program. Used my debt card for most of this time. I attempted to make a 1k purchase (which I called and verified before hand would be ok 5k a day spending limit). Only to have it be declined three times in a row (while on the phone with the rep). Fast forward 20 minutes I get an email that my card and Apple Pay has been locked due to fraudulent activity. Now Chase is saying the ONLY 2 ways to remedy this are: 1)Go to a physical branch and present a photo ID 2)Get in touch with a banker whom I have a relationship with to "vouch" for me. Neither of these are possible I'm in a foreign country and I haven't stepped foot in a branch in a decade. Any ideas?! After escalation they are absolutely adamant sticks in the mud about these being my only two options for regaining access to my accounts. I've just blasted them on social media with no success any and all ideas welcome! Ty all for having a dedicated strong community!! *changed move to moved (very important detail!!) [link] [comments]  |
| 401(k) Plan, match 100% fully vested - how do I get through to my young staff to participate? Posted: 08 Sep 2021 06:30 PM PDT Just curious. When I started my company's 401k plan, I decided we would match 100% up to 4%, fully vested; with a 6 month waiting period to enter the plan. We hire lots of young workers. I explain to them that this is free money, that getting a 100% return is so very rare. Some of them still struggle with even doing the minimum 4% to get the full match. Any thoughts on how to get through to some of those stragglers? [link] [comments]  |
| Company whats to buy my shares. Do I have an option not to sell back? Posted: 08 Sep 2021 02:56 AM PDT I received an email from my trading account that I was holding share of a company that wanted to buy them back for a price between (no less than) $7.90 and no more than $9.00. Current stock price is $7.825. If I don't do anything, will I just keep my shares or am I forced to sell them back? [link] [comments]  |
| 401k to Roth while still employed? Posted: 08 Sep 2021 06:07 PM PDT Is it possible to roll over part of a traditional 401k while still working into a ROTH account? I'm in the 12% bracket now, the tax advantages are cool but the way I'm saying right now would be nice to ensure I get more $ out tax free come 60+ especially considering I don't know what brackets will be like by then? Like if I could roll over ~20k and add that to my taxable income now and have it available after 60+interest tax free that would be great.. [link] [comments]  |
| Should I take a 22% pay cut in the short term for the potential to make 79% more in the long term? Posted: 08 Sep 2021 07:07 PM PDT I'm a 27yo that's currently working grocery retail as a manager making ~$48k/yr. Looking for a new job because I'm overworked, exhausted, and have frankly just gone stagnant and simply don't want anything to do with my company anymore. The important factor here is that I'm capped out at what I make and have reached the plateau. No more raises unless I move up in the company, but that's a whole other process that I don't wanna do. I interviewed at another big grocery retail company and the interviews went great and they want to hire me. Even with 7 years of retail experience, they unfortunately couldn't match my pay rate because those who make what I make are usually in managerial positions or have been at the entry-level position (what I would start at) for a very long time and the company strictly promotes from within; very rarely off the street. I would have to start over from the bottom and I would be making ~$37.5k/yr. Doing the math, that's a 22% pay cut. However, I was reassured that whatever my pay rate is currently at, I will eventually get it back over time. The store manager also told me that for as young as I am and if I plan on staying in grocery retail for the rest of my life, this position is better because in the long term, I'll be making more than what I make currently. Upon further research on how the company does pay rate increases, I'll get my pay rate back in roughly 3 years. And that's without being in a managerial position. If promoted, I could reach my old rate even quicker. And their managers cap out at around $86k/yr, which is ~79% higher than what I'm capped at. Granted, it would probably take me 10+ years of being with the company to reach $86k/yr -- I would say at least before I'm 40 years old or so. My gut is telling me to just take the deal and have the peace of mind of knowing that in the long term, it's the better option even though I'll be making less money in the short term. Luckily, I have a good chunk of money saved up so it shouldn't be too bad making less. I was thinking of calling up the store manager soon and negotiate my pay rate to see if he's willing to go a little bit higher. If he doesn't budge, I'm just not too sure what to do. [link] [comments]  |
| Dentist said I needed perio treatment & deep cleaning… Posted: 08 Sep 2021 04:41 PM PDT I went the the dentist bc I wanted to get my wisdom teeth removed. I got x rays & everything, turns out that the dentist says I should start perio treatment & get a deep cleaning bc I have unhealthy gums. Ok. The perio treatment cost me over a little $1000 on care credit. But now, my insurance has denied the deep cleaning and I can't start the treatment unless I get the deep cleaning. I just spent the last hour trying to get in contact to see if I can dispute the claim and get the deep cleaning to start the perio. NO ONE was able to help at all. What are the next steps? I'm a college student & $1000 is a sh*t ton of money to pay for a treatment that I can't even use. Im extremely upset about this right now. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 08 Sep 2021 09:17 AM PDT This should be ok, right? Because we are married filing jointly. And we would expect a 2000 refund next year because of the new baby. So if I change the w4 to "2000" then they just take out 2000 less from my pay for remainder of year. This also makes sense to me because I had about $200 taken out for fed taxes every 2 weeks and with 9 pay periods left the math works out fine. Last year we got refund for federal but owed state - a net refund of 1000. And I also shouldn't worry because we qualify for the extra 1800 due to covid thing. So I don't expect we will owe at tax time. Does this sound right? I intend to use irs calculator next year once her income is just from her job and not disability and paid family leave. Edit. I'm happy with the extra cash now since her disability payments are like 170 a week. [link] [comments]  |
| (US) How exactly does one shop for auto insurance nowadays? Posted: 08 Sep 2021 08:00 PM PDT I used to call around and get free quotes and it resulted in massive spamming later on as the companies presumably sold off my information. I've been with Progressive Auto and Renters for about 7 years and have their Diamond+ level, however, a lot of people I know in my area pay less for cars newer and more expensive than mine (no tickets or accidents in 10+ years for me). I also have my coverage set pretty high including full tort options. Where do I start? Any good websites? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 08 Sep 2021 04:05 PM PDT Hello! I am really grateful to even be able to be doing this so far, supporting myself and making it work so far. I just wanted to make this post to check if there are any government assistance programs people know about, that I could be eligible for to help me out. I am not in a dire desperate situation but because I am a non dependent this semester I thought I might be able to take advantage of some programs. Would appreciate any insights or ideas, thanks so much! [link] [comments]  |
| When is it a good idea to take out a loan for a house? Posted: 08 Sep 2021 01:43 PM PDT My brother and I are saving up to buy my mom's house. We both currently live in it and she moved out last year. She's charging us rent at $900 a month, which is incredible for a 2bed 2bath in this market, but her monthly payments are only $780 for the mortgage. We pay for all of the utilities and upkeep of the home. (which I know is technically on her as the landlord but I'm not gonna press that since our rent price is so good.) She wants us to buy the house and doesn't want to sell to anyone else unless both of us decide not to buy it. I'm not 100% sure of what the house is valued at but I believe it's within the 220k-280k range and she owes more that 100k left. The goal my brother and I set was to save up 15k-20k each to put down on the home but we only have about 11k combined after trying to save for it. (We had some emergency expenses come up) Would it be a smart idea for each of us to take out a loan in our own names or a larger loan in both of ours to buy the house sooner or should I just ride the wave of my mom charging me rent until I save up naturally? As additional info I have a credit score over 740 and a car loan with about $3800 left. My brother has no loans or payments but no credit score. We are 27 and 23. [link] [comments]  |
| Old job wants me back - what to do with potential offer? Posted: 08 Sep 2021 06:55 PM PDT My old job was just acquired and is trying to recruit me back now that they have more resources to hire/pay people correctly. I've done a few rounds of calls with their team members and expect to receive an offer soon. Industry is tech. My questions are.. 1) When they decide to talk money.. should I expect to have a range I'm looking for, or just receive an offer? I'm making 80k now and would want 90-95k.. Is that reasonable? 2) After receiving offer, would you bring that to current company and ask to match that, or is it okay to ask to beat it? In terms of where I'd rather work, I feel as though my old company I'd be happier considering their culture is better with unlimited PTO + a fun office, and my current place is all remote working east coast hours while I'm in west coast. But my current place is a likely a better career move because I'm with a smaller company where I could have more leadership opportunities with a direct report at some point and don't feel I will have that at the old job based on expectations we've had. [link] [comments]  |
| What to do with title in South Carolina? Posted: 08 Sep 2021 04:09 PM PDT So when an auto loan is paid in full and the bank sends a letter saying as much as well as a title indicating them (the bank) as the primary lien holder, should the owner of the vehicle: A. Do nothing B. Proceed to the DMV to get the vehicle titled in their name with no lien holder C. Something else entirely (please specify) [link] [comments]  |
| Just opened a Roth IRA with Fidelity. What is the Fidelity equivalent of VTWAX/VTSAX? Posted: 08 Sep 2021 03:56 PM PDT Hey guys, I'm a pretty much clueless 18 year-old who's planning on making a Roth IRA this week. I did some research and was told it's okay to invest 100% into VTWAX/VTSAX as I'm starting out on Vanguard. However, after doing some more research, I've decided to go with Fidelity for my Roth IRA. My question is: What are the VTWAX/VTSAX equivalents on Fidelity? And in terms of VTWAX versus VTSAX, which do you guys recommend going into if I plan on going into one or the other? Thank you for any advice! [link] [comments]  |
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