• Breaking News

    Wednesday, January 6, 2021

    Personal Finance Most of my team announced our resignations, including myself, and I brought up that I would be willing to stay for an very large 'retention bonus'. Need help understanding pitfalls

    Personal Finance Most of my team announced our resignations, including myself, and I brought up that I would be willing to stay for an very large 'retention bonus'. Need help understanding pitfalls


    Most of my team announced our resignations, including myself, and I brought up that I would be willing to stay for an very large 'retention bonus'. Need help understanding pitfalls

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 06:32 PM PST

    The majority of my team has announced their resignations around the same time, including myself, and it has gained c-level executive attention, to the point where the CFO was authorized to 'pay whatever we asked'.

    Today, I indicated I would be willing to stay should I be offered a 250k retention bonus over 2 years of guaranteed employment.

    I know there are different ways that retention bonuses get paid out, and wanted to help understand some of the common 'pitfalls' that are associated with such a request.

    1. What are the pros\cons to 'lump-sum' vs installments\prorated payout?
    2. How should I negotiate wording that wouldn't result in the company deciding at random that I didn't meet their goals and be on the line to pay the bonus back? (At will \ sole-discretion)
    3. Tax implications (eg supplemental income)

    I'm also wary of the following situations:

    1. Expectations to work insane hours, (able to bake this into the contract?)
    2. Unachievable goals that set me up to fail so that they don't have to pay the full amount

    Finally, as I don't have any experience with retention bonuses myself, I'd be interested to hear some pros\cons others have run into in their own experiences.

    Thanks in advance!

    -r

    edit1: I did not demand the bonus, I was asked what it would take to keep me and this was my response

    submitted by /u/Schwerlin
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    30-Day Challenge #1: Get on top of your credit (January, 2021)

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 05:00 AM PST

    30-day challenges

    We are pleased to announce that we're continuing our 30-day challenge series. The schedule spans the entire year so be sure to keep an eye out each month.

    This month's 30-day challenge is to get on top of your credit. Here are some concrete steps you can take:

    Check your free credit report

    There are three major credit bureaus in the US: Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion. These companies each gather credit histories for individuals and sell that information to credit card companies, lenders, and other financial institutions.

    You can go to https://www.annualcreditreport.com to get a credit report from each credit bureau once per year. It's often recommended to stagger your requests so you can get one every four months so you may only want to request one report at this time. You can use a calendar reminder to stay on top of this.

    Now, your free credit report won't include your score and it also won't include credit monitoring, but you absolutely don't need to buy those from a credit bureau because there are free options. See below.

    Note that the security questions will sometimes ask about intentionally false information (e.g. made-up loans), so "none of the above" may be the right answer. If you can't get past the security questions, you may have to write in to get your report. Also be aware that you don't have to pay for anything on the credit bureau sites. If you find yourself prompted for a credit card number, you might have clicked to sign up for something you might not need or want.

    Also, if you have trouble with the web site, try temporarily disabling browser ad-blockers and privacy extensions.

    See the Credit Reports Wiki for more information!

    Sign up for free credit monitoring

    You don't need to pay for credit monitoring. Some options:

    • A variety of companies such as Credit Karma and Mint offer free credit monitoring services. There's a longer list of options in our Wiki.

    • Many employers also offer free credit monitoring for their employees directly with a credit bureau. Check with your benefits department.

    • Finally, if you've been the victim of a data breach like Target or Anthem, those companies are providing free credit monitoring for anyone potentially affected.

    After exploring your options, sign up with at least one of them. More information contained in the Credit Scoring Wiki.

    Find out your credit score

    You can now get your FICO score for free from Discover without a credit card.

    In addition, a number of credit cards actually give you a free FICO score as a benefit of having their card. Brands providing FICO scores include Discover, Citi (branded cards only), American Express, Bank of America, and Barclaycard. Here's a full list of options.

    In addition, you can get your VantageScore from Credit Karma or Mint. VantageScore is used less often by creditors than FICO, but it's a usually a good estimate of your FICO score. Paying for your credit score is silly unless you're considering getting a major loan like a mortgage.

    Get rid of pre-approved credit card junk mail

    OptOutPrescreen.Com is the official consumer credit card reporting website to opt-out of offers of credit or insurance. It's an easy win to reduce junk mail and reduce the risk of identity theft (from someone stealing your mail). I recommend signing up unless you're in the process of building credit and actually want to receive pre-approved offers.

    Are you looking to improve your credit?

    Once you have a score over 740, most credit files are solid enough to qualify for prime rate lending. This means that any additional increase of your score will likely not get you better credit products.

    If you are in a position where you'd like to improve your credit, here are two situations that often befall people when asking for help here:

    What to do if you find information you don't recognize

    Even though credit reporting is automated, mistakes can still occur. The most common errors can involve names and addresses. If your name is similar to a parent's name, there are also instances where a line of credit is reported on the wrong file.

    The simplest course of action is to dispute the information with the bureaus. Here are direct links to initiate a dispute:

    Finally, if you believe you've had your identity stolen, read and follow the steps in our Identity Theft Wiki.

    If you're not in the United States

    The PF wiki has many more countries covered. If you would like to add information for your country to the wiki, please message the moderation team.

    Challenge success criteria

    You've successfully completed this challenge once you've done 3 or more of the following things:

    • Requested a free credit report via annualcreditreport.com
    • Set a reminder to request a different credit report in 4 months
    • Found out your credit score (either FICO or VantageScore)
    • Signed up for free credit monitoring
    • Opted out of pre-screened offers
    • Initiated a credit dispute with one or more credit bureaus

    If you're outside of the US, you've successfully completed this challenge once you've done the following things:

    • Read up on whether there is a credit scoring system in your country and find out how it works (see the previous section and also try searching the internet).
    • If it exists, find out how you can get information about your own report or score or whatever it's called, get that information if possible, and check it for accuracy.
    • If there are items on there that you can try to fix, start doing so. For example: pay down debts, talk to the credit reporting agency about inaccurate items, etc.
    submitted by /u/IndexBot
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    Niece asked me to co-sign her student loan.

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 10:03 AM PST

    First of all, the answer is going to be no. For a lot of reasons.

    Basically, something happened with her government loan for last semester. Something got denied and she's now on the hook. It's around 11k. So she is trying to take out a private student loan and needs a co-signer. She told me it would cost me nothing and that I wouldn't be responsible for anything. Clearly she doesn't understand how a co-signer works. Yes, I would be on the hook if she doesn't pay and the loan amount is applied to my debt to income ratio. My wife and I are also planning on having our first child. The last thing I need is a loan over my head for a decade or more for something I didn't buy.

    For context, my sister is divorced and both she and her ex husband have less than stellar credit. My sister said she can co-sign if I can't, but she would prefer not to as she wants to buy a house this year.

    My question is, how should I handle this? I'm absolutely saying no. But I also want her to understand why the answer is no. I want her to understand why. I still have bills, my wife's student loans, etc. How would you guys handle this?

    submitted by /u/2shitsleft
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    Got recruited for and was offered a job but pay on ad online is higher

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 07:19 AM PST

    I was recruited for a position last week. I didn't know who I'd be working for or any details beyond the title and job responsibilities until after I had interviewed. My recruiter told me that they were inflexible with pay but after I found out the company name I looked it up. And found a name with the company, the job title, the responsibilities and location with a pay listed of two dollars more than I was told. It's a full-time position so the difference would be about $300 - $400 a month but I've also already accepted the position and started the onboarding process so I don't know if it's wise to do anything at this point. Thoughts?

    submitted by /u/fluffers95
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    Job promotion pay advice

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 05:45 PM PST

    Not sure is the right sub for this but here it goes.

    I currently have been working 40 hours per week in my current position for about a year and a half now. It is a salary position. I applied for an opening for a higher position. During the interview process my manager said the newer position had a higher workload so he'd be expecting me to put in more hours than my typical 40 per week.

    I got the job offer and on paper it looked like a nice raise but it was still well below what I was asking. I asked about it and they said this was all they were able to offer me. I figured a raise is a raise so I took it and signed it. This doesn't go into effect until Monday.

    The excitement wore off and I decided to do the math today. I broke it down and even just working 1 more hour per day to make it 45 hours per week, my hourly pay would be over a dollar less than what it is now. My current position is less responsibility and I'm not necessarily expected to work more than 40 hours per week because I can get everything done that I need to.

    I'm planning to bring this up to my manager tomorrow to express my concern. Has anyone had a similar experience and how they handled it with their manager or recommendations as to how i should handle it?

    Is my signing the offer letter binding me to take it?

    Thanks in advance for anyone's help

    submitted by /u/sirgeeezy
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    My personal experience with Simple as a "bank." (It's not good)

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 12:34 PM PST

    I just wanted to make a quick post about the bank called Simple. As long as nothing goes wrong, Simple is an okay place to bank. If you have fraud happen, that is another story.

    I've had fraud happen twice on my checking account. Both times I feel it has been fraud that my previous bank would have noticed and put a block on my card. The most recent instance happened early December 2020. As soon as I noticed I called the support line to report it. After waiting almost an hour and a half I got to a support rep who supposedly took care of my dispute. Fast forward two weeks, I haven't heard anything so I send them a direct support message. In another four days they have not replied to my support message so I call again. When the support rep looks up my information he sees the call and the message recorded on my account but the disputes were never filed. Now I have to wait another 15 to 90 days to get my money back. This is money I need to pay bills and buy groceries.

    In short, their customer service is horrible and their fraud tracking is horrible. If you ask to speak to a manager, "there is no one for you to talk to" is what I was told. Stay away from Simple.

    submitted by /u/SimpleIsTheWorstBank
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    Should I start investing less in retirement accounts and more in brokerage?

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 05:05 PM PST

    I'm 32 and currently have $344k in Roth IRA/IRA/401k. Looking at some investment calculators, if I don't start withdrawing until I'm 65, then at 7% rate of return I'll have $3.2M or so, and at 10% rate of return I'll have $7.9M. That's if I invest $0 more ever and just get those average annual returns. I believe the 10% is the S&P average and the 7% is adjusted for inflation. Seems like plenty of money from 65 to end of life. Of course, I'll still continue to invest in retirement accounts and hope to get at least one more year of maxing the 401k and Roth IRA (soon I may be over the Roth income limit).

    I also have about $180k in brokerage. If, for example, I invested $2k per month in the brokerage (currently what I am doing in 401k + Roth essentially) then by 50 I should have about $2.1M in the brokerage and can maybe think about retiring soon after that point.

    Any thoughts on this? I guess I don't foresee needing as much as I'm on track to have (hopefully, if historical return remains about 10%) if I continue maxing the retirement accounts. Is it then maybe a better strategy to invest more heavily in a brokerage account and have the option to retire earlier?

    submitted by /u/BTaxesThrow
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    Priced out of buying an apartment that suits me in the city (EU). Should I wait in case prices (or my standards) come down, or buy a house cheaply in a commuter city?

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 05:36 AM PST

    I live in Vienna. I have no debt, approx 50k EUR for a deposit and could get a decent mortgage rate for my income/circumstances. Age 30, with partner but is a student so I am not expecting them to contribute anything, and I prefer anythng to be solely under my name at this point. Apartment should be suitable for eventual start of family, and if we outgrow it, to perhaps rent it out.

    At my price range, my options in reality are not aligning at all with my goal. Nothing is striking me as the One and I am too scared of making a mistake. I'm not really in a rush, insofar as that my rent is stable/low for the area (a mortgage would likely increase that payment from 800 to 1000-1200 monthly), lease has a few more years on it, the money is tucked away in a safe investment, and I am not anywhere near family planning yet.

    The closest apartments I've found that suit my ideal have been units in dire shape needing renovation for 280-380k with a couple of elements still missing. I might be willing to take on a bigger loan if all elements are in place and it just needs reno (my partner has the skills but ofc I don't want to rely on that only), but when the bare bones still don't match I just can't pull the trigger.

    I have been looking for years, and in earnest, visiting places on a regular basis since Jan 2020. Nothing clicks. I am getting discouraged because I feel like there is no piece of the city for me, unless I want to settle. There's a few that dance around my criteria, but if I'm going to really maximise my possible mortgage, and take on dept for 30 years, for an apartment I might need to upgrade in less than 10 years, I can't convince myself to do it for something that isn't The One. Plus, the funny thing about Vienna is that renting isn't as wasteful as in other cities. The protections in place are quite good, and I know many people who own homes in other Austrian states and just rent in the city forever.

    Which brings me to my counter option: buy a house in a suburb. There are decently crappy/small homes outside of Vienna within 40-60 mins of the centre for under 100k. But this is Austria - every town/village is still lovely. I grew up in a rural area so this doesnt phase me, plus many have bus/train connections that would still not require a car (although at some point I suppose it'd be necessary). I recognise the differences of flat vs house and all the pros and cons. I think I could be happy in either once I committed to one. Whats killing me is that the money I have can buy less and less every year that I sit on it. Over the past 4 years of this search I've seen prices rise 20-100k easily. My investments are keeping up with inflation more or less, and easy to cash out, but I am really attached to the idea of property ownership and while Ive done countless hours of research on ETFs and the like, I can't get over how badly I want to own, and I am watching apartment prices going up way faster than inflation.

    This is a hugely long rant to get to the point: should I bite the bullet and buy someting in the city that is imperfect but that will surely be more useful/profitable/convenient in the future? or buy myself a suburb home fixer-upper, still pretty close to the city, maybe hang onto a cheap rent here (I have an option for 400 eur monthly for a large studio) simultaneously to keep a foot in the city and avoid long commutes if/whenever we are called back to our daily office work? Will homes that far outside be worth anything in the future? Will I kick myself down the line if A) I lose my chance forever at owning a piece of Vienna when I could have (sort of) afforded it or B) I buy a house and then apartment prices drop and my dream place presents itself but I can't afford it anymore after investing in a house?

    There's also an implicit C) right now I have a partner and a dog, and envision the house as a place for our future family. But if my partner and I ever split up, or as my dog gets older, I am scared of ending up alone in a suburb house in a country where I hardly speak the language and everything Ive buillt my life upon is in the city. It won't rent or sell as easily as a 2bdr in the city could if worse comes to worst.

    I just want to hear some opinions. I'm genuinely struggling with the decision and scared of regretting one way or another later. Sorry if this is the wrong sub - if you have another idea where I could ask I would appreciate that a lot too!

    submitted by /u/the_cucumber
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    In an accident (car totaled) and car was towed away. A month has passed and I can’t afford to pay to get it back, but I don’t want it. What can I do?

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 03:20 PM PST

    Can I give them permission to have the car or destroy it and not have to pay then loads of money? I'm 17 and I do not have enough money to pay them for it as I didn't even know I had to pay to get it back. What can I do? The man who towed my car was also an asshole to me and I really don't want to give them a dime. Any advice please?

    submitted by /u/Trickster9993
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    building credit before graduation

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 03:42 PM PST

    I know absolutely nothing about credit but I need to build some before I graduate college in this coming May. I've never been late on bills or anything, and I've never had a credit card so I think I have no credit at all? It was suggested to me that I open a secure credit card with only a few hundred dollars in it to pay for gas and other small things. Does anyone have experience with secure credit cards? Is it a good way to go about building credit for the first time? Thanks :)

    submitted by /u/shypetal
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    Saving as a salesperson

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 04:10 PM PST

    I have been a sales person my entire career and have struggled with the best ways to save. As my income varies month to month it is challenging to create automatic transfers to savings or investments.

    I have a base but my commission is about 70% of my gross income. I have ended up saving my big end of year bonus checks but that is obviously not the way to do it.

    What is the best way to approach savings and investing when my income is variable?

    submitted by /u/curtiswatkins91
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    Can a retired person get a mortgage?

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 06:34 PM PST

    Self employed but only make about $35k during pandemic. Have fairly substantial savings. Just about to turn 60. So I'll just claim I'm retired.

    Any mortgage underwriters can give advice. Thanks redditverse

    submitted by /u/ISeeEverythingYouDo
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    Seeking retirement planning advice and am overwhelmed.

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 08:02 PM PST

    I am 35 years old. I've worked hard to get where I am today, but finances are not really my thing. I've been doing a lot of research lately, but quickly become overwhelmed and afraid that I am making poor, uneducated decisions. I should probably find a fiduciary financial advisor, but quite frankly I have trust issues.

    I have tried posting here many times with various throwaway accounts, but every time I've been downvoted like crazy with almost no positive comments. I would really appreciate some advice from this community to accelerate the research I've been doing. Truly, any thoughts or insights would be greatly appreciated.

    Assets

    • Traditional Thrift Savings Plan (TSP)
      • Account balance - 40k
      • Can no longer contribute
      • Should I leave this money there or roll it over into something else?
    • Traditional 401k #1 (Vanguard)
      • Account balance - $220k
      • Can no longer contribute
      • Should I leave this money there or roll it into something else?
    • Traditional 401k #2 (Schwab)
      • Maxing out each year with an employer match 125% match up to 6%
      • Is a traditional 401k the best choice for me or should I use the Roth 401k?
      • Should I look into backdoor roth or mega backdoor roth?
    • Roth IRA (Vanguard)
      • Account balance - $75k
      • I just rolled another account into this and need to invest the money, but I am unsure of what plan to pick
    • HSA #1
      • Account balance - $26k
      • Can no longer contribute
      • Should I leave the money there, roll it over to my new HSA, or something else?
    • HSA #2
      • Contributing max each year
    • Wealthfront IRA
      • Account balance - $40k
      • Not contributing regularly
      • Should I leave this money here or do something else with it?
    • Betterment IRA
      • Account balance - $15k
      • Not contributing regularly
      • Should I leave this money here or do something else with it?
    • Vanguard 529
      • Account 1: 24k (age 5)
      • Account 2: 12k (age 3)
      • I always worry I made a huge mistake by putting money into 529, but am not sure. Am I stuck with this money here? Should I contribute more money into account 2?
    • Precious Metal - Approximately $150k
    • Bitcoin - Approximately $50k
    • Emergency Fund/Cash - $20k

    Debt

    • $250k on mortgage ($650k home value) with 3.25% fixed interest rate
    • No other debt

    My questions boil down to (in order of importance):

    1. What fund should I buy into with the $75k that was just rolled over into Vanguards Roth IRA?
    2. Was contributing to Vanguard 529 plans a huge mistake? Is my money stuck there? Or should I consider contributing more to account 2?
    3. Should I consider refinancing my mortgage for a lower rate? Should I start aggressively paying off the mortgage? If not, where should I put my money after 401k, Roth, HSA, etc. is completely maxed out?
    4. Should I be using a traditional 401k with my current employer or should I switch to a Roth 401k or look into backdoor roth or mega backdoor roth?
    5. Should I rollover my old HSA to something else?
    6. Should I rollover a previous employer's traditional 401k to something else?
    7. Should I rollover my traditional TSP account to something else?
    8. Should I keep my wealthfront and betterment accounts? Consolidate into one? Rollover into something else?

    If anyone is willing to help head down the right path, I would greatly appreciate it. Also, anyone that would be willing to share pros and cons to different approaches and suggestions would be absolutely amazing.

    submitted by /u/Winnie_The_Flu_
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    How 401k tax year is determined at end of year?

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 02:05 PM PST

    I got paid on December 31st and my employer deducted my 401k contribution from my December paycheque. However the contribution did not show up on my 401k account until January 5th, 2021 (takes some time to propagate). Does the contribution still count for the 2020 limit or is it for the 2021 limit? Note I do have the paystub for December 31st showing the 401k contibution was made on that day.

    submitted by /u/reactbooter
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    Retirement and investing as a 1099 living nomadically?

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 07:27 AM PST

    31/m/US

    I make about $48,000 yr as a 1099 contractor.

    I have an IRA with about $20,000 in it.

    Savings are about $30,000

    No mortgage / car payment / credit card debt etc.

    I worked outside of the US this year, which lets me qualify for the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion, however if I claim this I won't be allowed to contribute to my IRA.

    Saving for retirement has become more of a priority for me.

    I could just pay the taxes on the 1099 and not claim the exclusion this year, and I could keep contributing to my IRA for 2021. The only other option I see is to claim the exclusion, save on taxes, but then be forced to put investments into a taxable brokerage.

    Am I thinking about this correctly, or anything I might be missing?

    Finding a remote 1099 in my field that would let me work abroad on a different timezone was the holy grail for me two years ago because of the freedom it afforded me, but not getting an employer sponsored 401K has started to weigh on my mind, especially with being unable to contribute to IRA while claiming the exclusion. I'm wondering now if I should be looking for work as a normal employee with how the whole office workforce is practically remote. I know there's other tax and location issues that will arise through that as well however.

    Thanks.

    submitted by /u/bucheonsi
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    Moonlighting Income Help

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 04:24 PM PST

    Hello!

    I need some advice on how to set up a moonlighting gig I have in the works.

    My wife and I are both in our late 20s. I'm a design engineer making $87,000 annually and my wife is a medical professional making about $90,000. We currently have no other sources of income.

    A company I have done business with in the past asked if I would be interested in doing some design work for them in the evenings/weekends. I cleared it with my current company and they have no issues with me doing this.

    The company I will be moonlighting for ask me how I want to get paid (per hour, per project, etc.) and asked if I want a W2, 1099, set up an LLC, etc.

    This first part is easy: I'm leaning towards hourly. Every design project is different. Some could take me 1 hour and some could take me 10+.

    The part I need the most help with is setting up how I get paid. What is best to go with? W2, 1099, setting up an LLC etc? I don't want to be doing all this extra work and have to give it all back in taxes. Keep in mind the money isn't the biggest benefit in my eyes. Business connections and experience is just as valuable to me. Regardless, I want to get this set up so it's most beneficial financially and career-wise.

    Bonus question: anyone else that has done similar moonlight work... What did you charge hourly? I've seen people recommend your current salary rate +~20%.

    I appreciate any help!

    submitted by /u/TugOBrindle
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    Spectrum sent me to collections over equipment I have returned, how do I fix my credit?

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 07:26 PM PST

    I just got notice from Credit Karma that Charter Communications (aka Spectrum) has sent me to collections for $59 because of "unreturned equipment" and so CBE Group has added a new collections account to my Equifax and TransUnion credit report.

    I cancelled my service when my lease ended at my old place July 31, 2020 and I returned my equipment when I moved to my new place and found it in a box a few weeks later between August 3-16. I don't remember the exact date and I cannot find the receipt proving I dropped it off (which makes this way worse I know). I checked my account balance right after I found this out both on the phone and through my Spectrum online account and both said I had $0 due. After that I called Spectrum very upset and they said that they would do an equipment search and that I would be notified of the results of the search in a week. They said once they found the equipment they would remove the charge and fix the report on my credit, but I am scared they won't find it.

    Naturally, I am furious! Honestly, if I had even known that the charge was there I would have paid it just so this would not have happened! I would rather pay this stupid fraudulent charge than have my credit affected.

    What can I do to fix my credit? I don't care if I have to pay more money to fix this. I'm supposed to buy a house in a few years. I've been saving for a down payment and now I'm scared this will stop me from getting a good loan.

    Any help or advice is very appreciated. Thank you!

    submitted by /u/metroidbaby
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    Second Relief Payment Went into Cancelled Bank Account

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 07:58 AM PST

    I went and checked the status of my second check, and saw that it had been deposited... to a bank account that is now closed. What can I do to recover the funds? Calling the IRS about the second recovery check doesnt allow me to reach a person. Thanks for any help.

    submitted by /u/NeuterMcgavin
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    Best bank for large wire transfers, small business, etc?

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 05:41 PM PST

    I recently made the mistake of switching my business and personal accounts to PNC.

    They've mistakingly charged me three times, gave me a $500 credit limit by mistake, and I could go on but they've just overall been absolute garbage.

    It's a huge pain in the ass to switch accounts but I may as well do it now while one fresh.

    My last bank had a two wire per year transfer without speaking with the owner, and it because a large hassle to get him to override every couple of weeks when I needed to order inventory.

    submitted by /u/caleb48kb
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    Only 2 months at my current job and had a table saw accident, correct way to request compensation for lost time?

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 06:50 PM PST

    I'm very naive to these sorts of things. I did some research about workmans comp in my state, but I like to get first hand advice from people who have been through these sorts of things. I sliced 4 fingers deep on one hand, and broke two. The dr expects me to be out of work, or unable to preform normal duties for 8 weeks. It also prevents my from doing all my hobbies, guitar, carpentry, working out, not to mention the fukin pain. I contacted my boss and let him know what happened otw to the er, which is one requirement for Va. to which I received a 10/4! My next step on Va's website is for me to file a claim with them. I don't know if he's hoping I just deal with it and ask him to let me work on tasks that only require one hand? The pay won't be the same if I leave it up to him. I've had pretty bad vibes with this guy from the start. He seems to enjoy messing with people. I was only supposed to train for 2 weeks and instead I was training for 2 months doing the same simple tasks of installing exterior and storm doors. As soon as I was on my own, I get assigned a job that I haven't been trained to do. I made my boss aware of the situation, & didn't get any help in response. I was there this morning and finishing up the final cuts and installation. I have used my table saw many times in my garage on its stand, but today something jammed while cutting a short piece of wood, it slammed my hand into the blade and when I noticed how bad it was I grabbed what I could and rushed to the hospital. Anyway I'm not trying to get what I don't deserve, idk what I deserve. We work on compensation, and I'm not trying to go back to getting paid hourly and making 1/3-1/4th of what I would be if this didn't happen. How should I deal with this situation? Thnx in advance.

    submitted by /u/DisIslandizursenjy
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    Continuous issues with paychecks. Co-workers and I owed money from as far back as July. No help from higher ups or union. (PA)

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 03:35 AM PST

    Hello all. Im looking for some advice on having issues with paychecks. My co-workers and I are owed quite a bit of money, ranging form our most current paycheck all the way back to July. While our company is quick on cutting us checks for missed straight pay, they are extremely lackluster in paying out missing overtime. We are a 13 man sub-group of a certain department for an electric utility (I speak only for the 6 of us on night shift). Every single paycheck we get is messed up in some way or another. We can not go to our union because the workers in the chain are all union employees. They pretty much refuse to help us in any issue we have, but that's another issue in itself. We also have the issue of rotating foreman every month. The month of December, we had our "true" foreman (the guy who is in charge of the 12 sub-group) and he seemed to take an interest in our predicament. We came up with exactly what we were missing. And now it is January and we have a new foreman on night shift. Starting from square one every single month is obviously getting us no where. Some of us are owed thousands of dollars. Emails to people higher up go nowhere. What can we do to get the money we are owed? My thoughts are to email the Department of Labor, though I have family that work in the company that are not union and do not want any sort of retaliation going towards them.

    Adding a detailed example: A few co-workers volunteered to work overtime over Thanksgiving. Per our contract, they are owed 8 hours at their normal rate for holiday pay PLUS an addtional 8 hours at time and one-half for hours worked during their normal shceduled hours PLUS 4 hours at double time for hours worked outside their normal shift. They have not received any of it and continue to not hear anything about it either.

    submitted by /u/mrsixstrings12
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    Refinancing a small mortgage? $47K @ 5%

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 04:02 PM PST

    Hey guys I was curious if anyone had information on refinancing a small home loan. I own a condo, purchased in 2018 for about $63,000. I put 20% down and currently owe $47,000 on the mortgage. The current property value based on similar units is $80,000 and my credit score is 807.

    My interest rate on the loan is 5.0%, and was interested in getting this lowered, but was curious if it is even possible to refinance a loan this small. I have checked with a few companies and the smallest I have seen doable is $75,000.

    Has anyone refinanced or heard of someone refinancing a home loan at under $50,000?

    My current plan is to purchase a new (new to me) home and rent it for the next 3 years before selling this condo. My fear is that if I do refinance, the cost of the refinance would outweigh my savings over the next 3 years.

    submitted by /u/Beznia
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    Purchased (privately held) stock at a previous employer that went under. How is this handled?

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 01:15 PM PST

    I worked for a small startup for nearly five years and they had a stock offering and I purchased 2500 shares of common stock during an employee offering. I think it was $5k or $10k, can't recall exactly the amount.

    Anyway, the company had some problems and transferred ownership a few times. I didn't realize it but at one point I think it was actually divested at some point. I talked to my old boss and he sent me a letter he said he used to take a tax writeoff for his investment into the company. The letter is a "Notification-of-Disposition-of-Collateral".

    A possible wrinkle, this letter was produced in 2016, but I never saw it until just now (is there a statue of limitaitons for this?).

    Anyway, I don't expect much to happen except maybe I can write off 5k or 10k on my taxes at this point as the shares are worthless from my initial investment. Any ideas on how this works?

    submitted by /u/hallo_its_me
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    Can I have myself removed from ex-spouse's credit card accounts?

    Posted: 06 Jan 2021 07:33 PM PST

    Hi all -

    Got divorced a couple years ago now, and only realized recently that my credit info shows his info as well. His debt, his credit limits, etc. Can I make the call to the credit card companies to be removed, or does he have to do it? I would prefer to not be in contact with him, but I realize I may not have a choice.

    And does anyone know what will happen to my credit score once our credit-lives are separated? Our combined one is very high, and I'm worried it'll nosedive once his data's influence is removed.

    Thank you for any insight.

    submitted by /u/alienbuttcherry
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