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    Wednesday, April 1, 2020

    LocationBot has joined the sub! Insurance

    LocationBot has joined the sub! Insurance


    LocationBot has joined the sub!

    Posted: 31 Mar 2020 11:39 AM PDT

    We're proud to welcome LocationBot into the sub to remind everyone to include their location since insurance varies quite a bit across imaginary lines.

    submitted by /u/key2616
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    Personal injuries exceeded my limit please help!

    Posted: 01 Apr 2020 02:58 AM PDT

    I was in a car accident in September and I got a letter saying that the attorney is demanding pay in excess of what my policy could cover (I called my insurance and they said that the other insurance company is still settling the claim so there is no price yet) in personal injury but the recent letters I've had about this accident were in my name and this letter was in my moms name (she is the policy holder) could she be taken to court for this even though I was at fault for incident?

    submitted by /u/NemoTheBooler
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    Travel Insurance - Can I claim if airline offers to reschedule or provide travel voucher?

    Posted: 31 Mar 2020 11:28 PM PDT

    More context. Emirates airlines, expensive flight (£4500) for two in business class. They're offering travel vouchers or to reschedule but we would rather have a refund and rebook when we know this pandemic is over. Also if the flights end up being cheaper afterwards, we wouldn't get any excess back.

    I have travel insurance with CoverForYou, could I claim on that if emirates refuse to provide a refund?

    submitted by /u/ironman12345
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    Insurance company asking if I have any other health insurance coverage. Any ideas?

    Posted: 31 Mar 2020 08:38 PM PDT

    I got some blood tests done at my school's health center and my doctor said it will be covered by my university health insurance. However, I received a letter from my insurance company saying I have complete responsibility of the bill for now and they need needs more information (mentioned below) in order to process it (i.e. possibly pay for it) as it is not a "clean claim".

    Are you covered under any other health insurance plan? If applicable, are you covered under your parent's Health Insurance Plan? Are you employed? Name and address of employer. Name and address of other Plan administrator.

    I do not have any other health insurance apart from this.

    Has anyone faced this before? I have contacted my physician. I am just trying to be careful so I don't screw myself over somehow.

    submitted by /u/CannabisSativa420
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    Life after auto?

    Posted: 31 Mar 2020 07:30 PM PDT

    I'm a newly licensed adjuster doing auto at a big company. I'm curious, for those of you who started in auto claims, where are you now, 2,3,5,10+ years later, and how/why did you choose your path? I'm just trying to get a feel for what some of my possibilities are.

    submitted by /u/yogurtbot
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    Auto Body shops and no insurance work

    Posted: 31 Mar 2020 06:21 PM PDT

    Are all auto collision repair shops slow right now? Insurance not sending cars in? Anybody forced to lay off?

    submitted by /u/easilva662
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    General help on what I could do ?

    Posted: 31 Mar 2020 05:05 PM PDT

    So I was recently in a car accident where the other driver was completely at fault . He reversed into me in the middle of a street . Keep in mind that he admitted fault to his insurance company and mine and have it in file with my attorney. Ok so his insurance adjuster launched and investigation and came to the conclusion that he's helping me liable for 30% of my car repairs . Is this unfair ? I don't understand . I'm from Los Angeles by the way.

    submitted by /u/_Mufasa-
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    Getting kitchen repaired but pricing is not adding up.

    Posted: 31 Mar 2020 04:31 PM PDT

    This is in Georgia (30655).

    Follow up to a post the other day here:

    https://old.reddit.com/r/Insurance/comments/fr0f9l/i_feel_my_parents_are_getting_ripped_off_on_a/

    Here's the kitchen (with measurements) in question: https://imgur.com/a/qyCz7Tk

    Total cost for JUST the custom in-built cabinet boxes (they're reusing the old fronts, drawers, doors, and hardware), ~42 sq/ft of custom formica countertops (not including backspash), and installation (not including demo and waste removal, that was $2,880) is being billed at $5,280.

    So just a quick question...contractor came over yesterday after voicing our concerns with what was being done vs. what is being paid for.

    Contractor boss man made it VERY clear as I SPECIFICALLY asked what the countertops cost and he said "$2,250". Not including backspash (that was an addition $450).

    Now I've been to Home Depot and Lowes today and they both said that even for custom cut formica tops with 3/4 particle board and boarders at ~42 sq/ft using the best option they had shouldn't cost anymore if maybe slightly more than $1,000 but that would be on the higher end and that includes installation. I mean I have it now from multiple sources that work in this field that the countertops being over $1,000 is sort of high so what is $2,250??

    Contractor disagrees entirely and our somewhat heated discussion resulted in them agreeing that "they guess" they could get new casters for my parents reused and repainted drawers. It's tight for them though since apparently the remaining $3,000 of the $5,280 was apparently completely tied up. So he's saying these two items legit cost him over $5,000.

    So ignoring all the other issues I posted the other day and just focusing on the one thing I can truly check pricing for myself, everything I'm coming up with is looking to be less than half of what they're charging.

    What, if anything, can I do about this? I feel like for that amount of money, whether it's to be returned to "pre-loss condition" or not should we at least A) Not be able to get something nicer or B) Not have to over pay these people and potentially gain return credit for future work?

    Or is contractors doing work way cheaper than what was paid just the name of the game?

    Insurance is paying $13,000 for this (plus new floors for just the kitchen at $3,000 for 300 sq/ft) and my folks had to pay $2,000 out of pocket...Home Depot guy said he could do new cabinet bottoms and tops and countertops WITH install and demo for $10,000. Like...what?

    Anyways, just trying to get a bit more info or advice before I proceed with anything or talking in an official capacity to anyone. Thanks!

    submitted by /u/NoTornadoTalk
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    Damage from neighbor's house fire

    Posted: 31 Mar 2020 03:21 PM PDT

    I live in Pennsylvania.

    Several months ago, my neighbor had a fire on the side of his house - adjacent to my own house. The heat from this fire caused my siding to warp and possibly allow the underlying sheathing to get damage from the rainwater getting in.

    I hadn't been able to contact my neighbor until about a week ago (he never seems to be home). I got his insurance information and contacted them the next day, and explained the situation.

    They had already cut a check for his damage, and they proceeded to assign a claim number for my case. I heard from a claims examiner the next day, and he told me that my neighbor's insurance is lender provided - and the policy does not contain coverage for liability.

    I have been working with an insurance agent in my area recently, as I am interested in switching over to a new provider (both home & auto, rates constantly going up & up).

    The agent is telling me that it would be best to switch to a new provider now, and then file a claim with the old provider as the insurer at time of the loss is always liable insurer.

    I had been with my current provider for a number of years without any claims filed, and I am afraid that if I file the claim with them before switching over to the new provider, the claim would get reported and affect the new providers premium.

    Looking for some advice on the situation, as well as the accuracy of what the insurance agent is telling me.

    submitted by /u/jginrey
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    Universal Life

    Posted: 31 Mar 2020 02:05 PM PDT

    $113k UL policy on husband, age 63

    Premium $127 mo., Total over past 23 years about $30k

    Cash Value about $900 (we have made withdrawals in the past)

    Notice that at current rates, if we stop premiums, policy will lapse in 2021. Continued premiums projected to fund it until 2029.

    Premium increase to $200 will fund it (non-guaranteed rates) til 2039.

    I am 6 years older than him. I have 2 pensions and my SS, which is more than his. I have good long-term care ins. We own the house and our only debt is a car payment. Our savings are very modest.

    What should I do with this policy? Any point in trying to sell it? Just drop it? Pay the $127 until it lapses?

    submitted by /u/isurrender23
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    How does emergency medicine work across state lines with managed Medicaid for seniors?

    Posted: 31 Mar 2020 10:16 AM PDT

    So let's say there's a 70 year old, Medicare and managed Medicaid through health first. Faints on vacation in another US state. Ambulance to the er, admitted into hospital for observation, discharged after a few days and goes home. Are they responsible for a larger bill than if this happened in their home state? What if the hospital tries to pull a 'u were seen by an out of network practitioner'?

    submitted by /u/meyerovb
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    Appropriate way to decline broker's recommendations?

    Posted: 31 Mar 2020 01:46 PM PDT

    Background below, but here are my actual questions. Thank you in advance for any help/advice!

    1. Is it appropriate to ask an insurance broker for more/different quotes because I don't like the reviews I've seen for the company he provided? Will a broker be able to tell me if a company is actually good/bad?
    2. If necessary, how can I politely inform the broker that I appreciate his help and time, but I've decided to go with State Farm, because of prior history, bigger network, blah blah blah without burning bridges if I change my mind 3 years from now?

    Background if needed: Under contract for a home for the first time in Texas, and my lender recommended an independent insurance broker. Broker has exceptional reviews, has been extremely helpful and friendly, and generally seems top notch.

    The first quote he shared with me was great, but I had forgotten to mention ownership of an "aggressive breed", so never mind. Second quote also has good coverage and rates (allows but possibly excludes dog breed, A+ BBB rating), but the insurance company has super mixed reviews, especially around the claims process and their organization.

    Separately, State Farm (doggo coverage, familiar with agent from auto/family/etc. ) provided me an initial quote that was understandably higher ($300 annually). I'm working with the agent to reduce coverage to try to match what I actually need (what the broker's been using) and see if that gets to a more competitive premium.

    submitted by /u/house_noob
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    Trying to get the best auto policy for my classic car. Any advice?

    Posted: 31 Mar 2020 12:27 PM PDT

    A bit of background, I have a classic car that's valued at about $25k. It currently has a regular insurance policy, however if it were to be victim of a total loss, I wouldn't get nearly that amount.

    I have been looking into some classic car insurance companies- Hagerty, Grundy, American Collector, AAA, Amica to name a few. Unfortunately I don't qualify for their policies, since my classic car is my only car, thus it's my "primary car".

    Although it's my only car, I don't drive it to work (I take public transit), I take it out on the weekends (sometimes, but not in the winter), and it's garaged.

    The only insurance provider that was able to provide me with a declared value policy was State Farm, and while their policy seems to be best it limits my driving to about 3k mi per year. I usually drive around 5k mi per year, usually weekend trips in the summer, going back home to visit family etc.

    What would be the best auto policy (and company to go with) that would suit my needs best? Thanks in advance.

    submitted by /u/scuba_steve94
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    Insurance Help

    Posted: 31 Mar 2020 11:56 AM PDT

    So I bought my car (2009 Mitsubishi Lancer ES) in January 2019 and had my G2. The insurance on it was $60/m which i thought was really good and didn't think anything of it. It was that cheap because i was a secondary driver and my Mom was the primary. Up until a month ago my insurance sent out a new policy and said that my insurance was going up to $380/m. They said they messed up and had my down as a G1 driver for the past year which was why my Insurance was so cheap. Which i don't understand because i know for a fact they took a copy of my G2 License. Anyways i can't afford to pay $380/m because i'm 17, in school and work at a grocery store after school maybe 3 times a week. i barely even make $300/m. I've phoned around to other places and it's still very expensive like 400-600 a month. They are saying that i have to be the primary but i can't afford to do that, is there anyway around it? There are 3 drivers in my house and 3 cars. I don't understand how insurance companies think students can afford to pay these prices. I'm from a small town in Ontario, Canada. At this rate i'll be paying more for insurance a year then i paid for the damn car.

    submitted by /u/Zacks_
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    Do I wait out the insurance company or contact the billing department directly?

    Posted: 31 Mar 2020 07:48 AM PDT

    Edit: I'm in TN, USA

    I have a question about medical bills/collections/insurance.

    TLDR: do I keep waiting on insurance to do their thing or negotiate with the billing department myself?

    So, I went to the ER a couple months ago. (Had intense abdominal pain. Apparently I'm fine.) My insurance has a $0 deductible. $250 copay for ER visits. I went to a hospital that was listed as in network. Paid my $250 copay and thought that was the end of it.

    Well, I got a letter in the mail from the ER physician saying they saw me out of network and my insurance only paid $300 of a $1800 charge. But they stated on this letter that this was not a bill. I never knew specific doctors in hospitals could be out of network. Lesson learned.

    Anyway, called my insurance and they said don't worry about it unless they send you an actual bill. I got another letter a couple weeks ago from the ER physician that said basically "we're going to send you a bill if you don't tell your insurance to renegotiate this with us"

    I called my insurance and they said we're not going to renegotiate anything unless they send you an actual bill. They were given our information to call anyway.

    So now I'm just in limbo. It's been about 60 days since my date of service and I'm just waiting on a bill to show up? I could pay the remaining $1500 but it would drain my savings. I'm worried I'm going to be sent to collections because it's been so long since service was provided. How long would the renegotiating take once I receive a bill? Should I just call the ER doc and tell them hey my insurance is going to pay more but you have to send me a bill first? Do I just ask them to lower my bill because I went expecting to not have to pay anything but my copay and it wasn't my choice to see someone out of network? Do I hope they write it off and don't send me a bill because my insurance ignored them?

    I don't like this waiting game. I have good credit and I don't want a collection to happen and tank that when I have the money and insurance is just obnoxious and complicated.

    submitted by /u/medicalwoes2020
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    Insuring (PLI) a foreign-owned US LLC

    Posted: 31 Mar 2020 04:38 AM PDT

    We are both residents & citizens in Europe but we operating a US LLC that's growing.

    How do we protect ourselves with business & public liability insurance (PLI)?

    Do we get personal insurance locally? And can we even get business PLI for our LLC as non-citizens/residents?

    submitted by /u/level103
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