Personal Finance Rented a car, paid with company card. got in a wreck on Friday will I lose my job? |
- Rented a car, paid with company card. got in a wreck on Friday will I lose my job?
- Don't pay on very old bills?
- Hotel water damage
- Fidelity IRA Allocation with Only Zero Fee Funds?
- Renting after foreclosure
- Do I take the pension or is it too risky?
- Saving Up for a pet
- My dad passed away, and my 62 yo mom just received 150k in life insurance. How should I tell her to invest this?
- Question about wage garnishment
- Moving in with SO in roughly 2 months. Seeking advice on good systems for handling our finances.
- Brother/Roommate failed to pay his part of rent, I see 3 options.
- Tricare pays 100% but doctors office sent me to collections
- smartasset.com tax calculators (Arkansas)
- Can i afford an apartment in miami for 1350 a month on a 40k pay grade ?
- Opened a new account through our electric company because I'm moving and got transfered to a company offering me really good deals on stuff like internet and home security. Is it legit?
- I'm 23 & want to get a credit card but keep getting denied
- Is now the right time for an MBA?
- Hitting the big 10k. Need some advice.
- Freelancer with a full time job, what to keep track of re: 1099s & W2s
- Family member potentially used me to cosign for financing?
- Buying a new car (should I get a cheap car or not?)
- Lots of debt, new wife, two jobs to choose between?
- Minor car accident.
- Does it make sense to switch job for lower salary but better working conditions?
| Rented a car, paid with company card. got in a wreck on Friday will I lose my job? Posted: 11 Nov 2018 03:18 PM PST Wrecked rental car pulling out in front of someone. Called boss, he sounds like he is just happy to see that I'm okay and calling higher management. But I'm worried that I'll be fired for pulling out in front of someone and getting t boned. I've never been in a wreck before and I'm a 23 years old Engineer What do I do if I get fired? What's the worst that could happen if I don't get fired? Sorry for being so vulnerable, but I have no clue what to think, just terrified I'll have to pay for a 2018 Nissan Sentra, and a 2006 Civic. I currently have a 2018 Tacoma and no other debts so I may be able to pay for both vehicles as long as I sell the Tacoma which is paid off ($34k paid, $31k trade in via Carmax) [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 11 Nov 2018 01:58 PM PST A close friend of mine is getting divorced and I'm trying to help her untangle the substantial mess. She says she has a lot of old medical bills and they're "so old they're not worth paying." My first instinct was to think that's not how it works and tell her to call up her creditors and offer them anything, even $5 a month, but then I remembered reading in posts here about how you should never pay on a really old bill because that ... "renews" or "resets" the debt ... or something? It's a very vague memory, so please forgive me, but I don't want to steer her wrong. She needs every chance she can get right now. I've googled this but I must not be using the right phrases because I keep getting totally unrelated results. Can someone explain? She says the debts are about four years old and she hasn't paid a penny on them in years. Also, please bear with me if I don't have a lot of information—she seems to go through periods of disclosure and then feeling too ashamed to give all the details. I'm trying to get information without stressing her out. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 11 Nov 2018 02:01 PM PST So I live in California and was involved in an incident Friday night involving water damage. I was on the third floor and mistakenly fell asleep while running the bathtub. Woke up with the room flooded. I went to the main desk and paid rehousing for the rooms affected below me (5 rooms, 6 including mine), and was contacted by a rep and billed the following day for $1,500 plus my one nights stay. I was informed the manager would be contacting me in the later days. I was just curious about the next steps I should possibly take? I am terrified because I know how expensive water damage can be. I asked about paperwork stating I have paid the amount billed as so nothing can come back to me saying I HAVEN'T which they emailed me a bill showing I owe no money. Any advice for anything else I need to do..? I'm just worried of the hotel coming back to me billing me more or suing me for the damages. I am in no way arguing any of the payment, I made a mistake and am paying everything I need to. I just need advice. Thank you kindly [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Fidelity IRA Allocation with Only Zero Fee Funds? Posted: 11 Nov 2018 01:41 PM PST I'm wondering what the argument would be against only using Fidelity's Zero Fee Funds?
Also would be interested in hearing if you think there would be a better percentage allocation [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 11 Nov 2018 02:57 PM PST I am in risk of losing my home due to unemployment (long story). My question is, what happens if I go bankrupt and end up in foreclosure, will I be able to rent an apartment from a corporate property management, will I need to find and individual that will over look my soon to be awful credit? Looking for any insight of what to expect. Thanks in advance. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Do I take the pension or is it too risky? Posted: 11 Nov 2018 07:46 AM PST I recently got a job working for the state of Massachusetts' transportation system. Technically I do not work for the state as we are "quasi" state employees. I am now part of a union which negotiates on behalf of us with the state. In this union I have the option of a 401k with 8% match or a pension in which you must complete 25 years of service and be at least 55 years old in which I can get 72% of my highest three years earning in perpetuity. As I am only 27 years old I would have to do 28 years to receive this pension, whereas if I started working at 45 and retired at 55 I would have 10 years and get something like 25% in perpetuity. If I leave before the 25 years I get nothing, just my contributions back (8.08%) plus 3% interest. Most people I talk to think I am insane if I do not take the pension (Which I am leaning heavily toward doing) but there's something about essentially being handcuffed to one company for 25 years that bothers me. Also another big concern for me is if the pension will still exist in 25 years, or am I going to get screwed in the end? It's basically set up like social security so no guarantees. Am I dumb for not taking the pension? Or is it too risky? Please advise! [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 11 Nov 2018 09:02 AM PST Hey friends, how much should you have saved up before adopting a dog? I got puppy fever but I'm not gonna get a pet unless I can supply a proper and healthy home for them. thanks [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 11 Nov 2018 08:19 AM PST My mom is going to pay off her remaining debts (5k first mortgage, 57k second mortgage). This would leave her with about 88k. Obviously, it doesn't make sense to just have this sit in a savings account, and the smartest thing to do is invest this. I'm thinking she can invest about 50k of the remaining amount, giving her some liquid money if she needs it. She could throw 13.5k into a Roth IRA (2018 & 2019 contributions combined), and maybe the rest into a taxable brokerage account? What investments would be best for her? Usually, I would say index funds, but with her already in her retirement and the market being a bit volatile right now, what would make the most sense in her situation? For some background, she currently makes 2k/month from her government pension and still has my father's retirement accounts that have about 57k in it right now. She probably spends about 2k/month, but she's cutting back on a lot of things (cable, phone etc.) I'm still working with her on a budget to see what she actually spends per month. My dad passed a month ago so we're still working through a lot of things, but I want to make sure we use this money wisely. Thanks for your help! [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Question about wage garnishment Posted: 11 Nov 2018 02:18 PM PST I received a letter yesterday from an attorney in Chicago stating that the state of Kansas is garnishing my wages, but doesn't say for what or how much. My old employer (located in KS) is listed as the garnishee (I haven't worked there since April) and I have never received anything in the mail prior about any debts owed. My husband and I both lived in Missouri and worked in Kansas, and I thought maybe we owed some state taxes we overlooked, but I pulled our last 3 returns and Kansas owed us, not the other way around. Who would I contact to get information about this? There is nothing on my credit report and my job (located in MO) hasn't received a notice of garnishment. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Moving in with SO in roughly 2 months. Seeking advice on good systems for handling our finances. Posted: 11 Nov 2018 09:38 AM PST Me (25M) and my GF (25F) are going to be moving in together for the first time in early January. We both have well paying jobs, student debt, and some savings. We're sitting down this week to sort out our finances and I'd like to go into this discussion with some ideas of ways that we can handle our finances jointly without completely combining everything. In my mind I'm envisioning a system where we set up a few joint accounts for things like bills, joint purchases, a combined emergency fund, etc. and then each leave money for our respective debts and personal purchases for individual things. I was curious to hear about people who have tried something similar, what specifically have you tried and how has it worked out? [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Brother/Roommate failed to pay his part of rent, I see 3 options. Posted: 11 Nov 2018 03:38 PM PST Little bit of backstory. I (22) moved out with my brother (24) about a year and a half ago from our parents, joined by my girlfriend (22) a few months ago. My girlfriend and I pay 415$ a month each in rent, while my brother pays 420$ (total of 1250), and there haven't been any issues in the year+ we've been here. Yesterday I got a notice that we were 470$ outstanding on our rent, and we have until tomorrow to pay it or face eviction. When I talked to the office mine and my girlfriends payments of 415 each are recorded but my brother's payment of 420 never was, plus a 50$ late fee. He claims he turned it in, but I have my doubts. Tomorrow morning we're all meeting with the property manager to discuss it. The way I see it there are 3 ways this can go;
Options I've thrown out
If anyone else has been in this situation advice would be appretiated. I have the money to cover his rent but at that point I feel I'm just getting taken advantage of. *Edited for clarity. Also I realize now this thread should have been on advice or AITA. When I started writing it i was intending it to be a question on how to make any debt he owes me legal but I lost track of that main question as the post went on. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Tricare pays 100% but doctors office sent me to collections Posted: 11 Nov 2018 07:10 AM PST I had a baby this summer. I received a bill from my ob in August for $600. I called and tricare had me listed as NOT active duty, and didn't pay in full. I called tricare and had them fix it and list me as active duty, so my bill should be paid in full. I called my ob, and I thought we worked everything out. Then I got another "bill" for $600, except this time the bill seemed strange. It listed a bunch of date of service claims, but said the bill was due 3 days before I even recieved the bill, plus there wasn't even an address to send a check to. I spent an hour on the phone with both the doctor's office, and tricare. Everything was supposed to be worked out, but the doctor's office said they would send me another bill, or call me if there was still a balance. Now I have suddenly received a letter from a collections agency telling me that I owe $200. I don't even have a date of service or description of service that tells me why I owe this money. Of course it's the weekend, and I can't deal with this until Monday. I don't even know who I'm supposed to deal with at this point. Do I call tricare, the doctor's office, the collections agency? I don't believe I owe this money, because tricare is supposed to pay everything. How am I supposed to work this out with tricare if I don't even have a bill that has a date of service? Is this going to ruin my credit? [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| smartasset.com tax calculators (Arkansas) Posted: 11 Nov 2018 03:08 PM PST At the following url: https://smartasset.com/taxes/arkansas-tax-calculator does anyone know if this calculation takes into account the standard $24,000 deduction or should I deduct that prior to entering my income? [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Can i afford an apartment in miami for 1350 a month on a 40k pay grade ? Posted: 11 Nov 2018 02:23 PM PST I recently got my first adult Job at the University and my roommate suddenly decides he wants to move out and asked if I wanted to take over the apartment. But it's 2200 a month 3 by 2. I didn't want to take on the head and found a new place for 1350k a big one bedroom apartment. My parents who don't live with me suggest it's not a bad deal since it's a decent area and they can have a place to crash by when they visit. They insist they can help me on the rent since that 1350 doesn't include utilities. Should I go for it or not. I feel terrible for getting cash from my parents for all they have done with me. Also I can still negotiate with the Owner on the rent. Any suggestions for negotiations ? [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 11 Nov 2018 01:59 PM PST Sorry if this is the wrong sub, I couldn't think of another but I'll remove if it's not relevant. So I'm moving and I called my electric company to have them have the electricity turned on at the new property before I move in. Once we were done, they transfered me to some other company that offered me some insanely good deals. Like for internet, they waived all kinds of installation fees, equipment fees, etc. Then they told me about more deals with ADT for home security and once again, they said they could waive all these crazy fees and I'd only be paying the monthly fee. The catch was he said I had to sign up right then for the deals. I took the deals for internet and TV (AT&T internet and Direct TV) since I'll need it but declined the ADT offers. I figured since my electric company transfered me to them, it had to be somewhat legit, but I'm here now for reddit to tell me how big of a mistake I made. Did I mess up? [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| I'm 23 & want to get a credit card but keep getting denied Posted: 11 Nov 2018 02:17 PM PST Hello all, I'll try to keep it brief. As stated in the title I'm 23 and I've never had a credit card. I've been wanting to get one for a while now in order to responsibilily start building my credit. I've applied for about 5 or so cards, through Best Buy, Chase, etc. But I've been denied for them all. I don't understand why I'm being denied, I don't have any outstanding debt. Is there a certain card I should be applying for, as my first credit card? Kind of embarrassing to post this because a lot of people my age know a lot more about this than I do, and have had credit cards for a while. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Is now the right time for an MBA? Posted: 11 Nov 2018 12:54 PM PST Thanks for taking a minute to check out my situation - if you have experience going through a graduate program while also juggling other priorities, let me know if it was worth it for you! Backstory: (23,M) I graduated with a BS in Business Management, worked for just over a year as an Operations Manager for a major retailer (65k), and took a decent pay cut when I recently transitioned to higher education and took an Assistant Director role at my Alma Mater (48k). The drop in salary is significant but the move was very worth it for me; I've been in-role for just over a month and have seen a huge spike in QoL. I transitioned from working weekend graveyard and 50+hours/week(3x16hour shifts) to 8-5/M-F and I have so much more flexibility. The benefits are also significantly better in the new role, and I can see a much more sustainable career path in higher education for my disposition. Situation: I am newly engaged, finally on a similar schedule to my SO and we are excited and ready to move out of our current living situation (1 house, 6 people, 1 dog) and are mainly interested in purchasing a home. We live in a moderate COL area, have a dog, both agree that we want to live in this area for at least the next 10 years, so purchasing a home makes the most sense for us, in the next 1-2 years. We currently earn about 80K combined, have about 50k in cash available (5k emergency fund, 40k in mutual funds, 5k checking) and are working on improving our budgeting significantly. We have 2 loans totaling ~10k (car/ring) but no other debt, and feel that we are capable of purchasing a home in the range of 200-260k. Here's where the MBA comes in: One of the best benefits of working for the university is having access to a 70% tuition reduction for up to 12 credits/term (quarter system). I had a meeting with an advisor on campus who explained some of the details and tax implications, and essentially I will pay~$250/credit, making the total cost for the MBA program ~$11,500, over the course of 2-3 years (very part time, while working full time). This will come directly out of my paycheck. So far my understanding of Higher Education is that advanced degrees are necessary to move into higher administrative positions. I want to utilize as much of the benefits provided by the university to make the decrease in base pay less impactful (they also offer a 12% retirement contribution if I contribute 4%...what?!?), but am conflicted if now is the right time to jump into this type of program. As we are just recently budgeting, we have only been putting away ~$800/month into our house fund, and I worry that a reduction in take-home pay due to paying for classes and other schools expenses would delay our ability to purchase a house. To anyone who has gone through a graduate program while having other/conflicting priorities, was it worth it for you? Did it provide any significant improvements in your career opportunities, or would you rather have waited on going back to school until your life was more stable? Thanks for any and all input! I am happy to answer any questions that will help clarify my situation. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Hitting the big 10k. Need some advice. Posted: 11 Nov 2018 08:26 AM PST I recently started my first big boy job. I've been working a few months and I'm getting close to the $10,000 in my bank account. This account is a savings / spending and account doesn't have much interest. Once I reach the 10,000 Mark I want to start doing things with my money. I want to make sure I'm capitalizing on any saving and interest possibilities available. Should I open up a separate account as a savings account and then have a spending account as well? Should I look into investing somewhere? I'm not really sure where the put my money. along with these options also to look for a new bank being that I'm still hooked to my parents account at a bank that doesn't do so well. any advice what to do if my money and where to route it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Before anyone asks, yes I'm investing into my 401k. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Freelancer with a full time job, what to keep track of re: 1099s & W2s Posted: 11 Nov 2018 01:44 PM PST I'm an artist & designer. I have a full time, full benefits in-house job as a sr graphic designer, salaried (req some OT @no pay, but great 401k contrib and health/dental/vision at no additional cost) and fill out a W2 with my employer. Prior to my current position (3 yrs?) I was primary freelancing and 1099ing it. I've taken on a lot of smaller freelance projects during that time, but it's since become a significant contributor to my expenses and earnings (lot of smaller, quick jobs under $300, but also a lot of 2k+ larger scale projects, coming through various forms of direct dep/checks/PayPal, each with their own expenses, time investments and separate clients to attrib for $) on top of the job. (Tbh I could use the money—My salary isn't bad but not amazing and while my credit score and savings are on point, I still have ~20k in private art school loans I want to get rid of before I can even think about purchasing a home.) I need some help figuring out what I should be keeping track of to avoid a shit show come inevitable tax season or forgetting what to report and expense. I work from home for freelance, am moving soon and will have a room/studio specifically for me in my new apartment (but will probably use the whole apt) and have a lot of extra expenses (re: tools, programs, etc, furniture ) I'll need to be able to work efficiently. tldr: I work full time, but freelance a lot (bands, brands, media) and don't know how I should be best organizing and filing my funds and expenses. ** ** I have a tax guy, but I also want to be able to give him everything he needs and that means, for me, being more organized about my workload, invoices, expenses, client that's kind of currently all over the place. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Family member potentially used me to cosign for financing? Posted: 11 Nov 2018 11:17 AM PST I decided to go and get my free annual credit report from annualcreditreport.com and was successfully able to acquire my report from TransUnion after noticing my CS dropped 18 points in one month which has never happened. Before anyone asks, my TransUnion report is spotless, but does not give me the entire picture. I've never missed a payment on any credit cards, loans, auto loans, any type of credit. However, when attempting to verify myself by answering the questions they ask to verify you, I started seeing questions asking me what amount for loans and car loans that I never applied for in 2017. Thinking it was just a test, I selected none of the above as an answer for the loan amounts asked (since I never applied for a loan or auto loan as I always pay cash). Nonetheless, once I submitted my answers I was immediately locked out and cannot retry answering the questions. I now have to submit the title to my home and all this other information to Experian and Equifax to acquire my reports which I really don't want to do. The reason I am concerned is that some of the dates mentioned such as August 2017 and July 2017 correlate to when a family member leased a new 2018 vehicle. I am wondering if they waltzed into the dealership and put down my name, signature, and SSN, etc. and got approved. Does anyone have any thoughts or ways on how I can get a report from Equifax or Experian without somehow scourging up the deed to my home and all this other info? I do not want to confront this person without hard evidence to back me up. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Buying a new car (should I get a cheap car or not?) Posted: 11 Nov 2018 03:51 PM PST First of all, I'm trying to save up for a house. Right now it's looking around $140-160k will get what I'm looking for. I still live at home and pay money to my parents each month. I've worked for close to 7 years now and I've saved up about $90,000. I'm still driving my first car, which I paid about $5000 in cash for 8 years ago. It's 17 years old, and needs a transmission rebuild that will probably exceed the value of the car. I think it would be better to just replace the car. I've wanted a newer car for a while but always thought that it's best to get the house first, then replace the car later once I've reached that goal. But it looks like it's going to have to come first. I'd really like to have a nice car, maybe 2-3 years old, something a bit higher end so maybe $15-20k. But I know most people will say "just get an old Toyota Camry or Corolla for $4k". But to me I'd rather just fix what I have now than drive a car like that. So does anyone have any suggestions on this? I'm usually a fairly frugal person, and tend to buy stuff that's used or at a discount, plus I don't go out to movies, fancy restaurants, etc much. So it's not like I always "waste" money, though there are a few things I could get a better handle on. I only make a little over $30k a year after taxes, including bonuses on average. But I figure I can recoup the cost of the car in a year or so if I keep being frugal. Of course, the insurance cost will be higher, etc. I was also figuring it would be better to just pay cash for the car than finance it. I now financing will give me another trade line and credit history, but I'm sure the interest will make it a lot more expensive. Plus I'd have to have full coverage insurance, but I think that's probably best anyway if I'm driving a more expensive car. I do not have full coverage insurance on my current car, because it's so old. But I used to. Overall I'm not sure it's going to make much difference to buy the car now or later. Assuming I buy a house while the next car still has plenty of life, I think I might be better off getting the car I want first. It's just hard to say, because cars aren't investments like a house. The frugal part of me says "get a cheaper car." [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Lots of debt, new wife, two jobs to choose between? Posted: 11 Nov 2018 07:46 AM PST If you just saw this, I switched to a throwaway, because I realized it had too much identifying info: I'm a newlywed, late 20s. About to graduate with a good degree. My wife is also in grad school, and her expected salary is 50-70k per year, but not for another year. She will be able to finish in either location. I'm down to two job offers (rejected my others for various reasons) Total Student Debt: 130k (estimated min payments 1250/month) Liquid Cash: We keep about 5K in emergency funding (6-8 weeks) and try to keep 2-5K in checking. I liquidated all my retirement (to minimize my new student debt/pay for school expenses) Location Both cities are similar "lowish" cost of living cities, one near my family, one near her family. Think Nashville, Raleigh, Atlanta, Austin. Could be low or could be high depending on my tolerance for a commute. Job Offer 1: 90k, 15k signing bonus, 8% target bonus. 6% 401k match, immediate vesting, 5 weeks total PTO. Job 1 Work/Life: I know I like the team, it's high visibility, 35-50 hours/week. Work from home 2-3 days a week. Functional and Industry of preference. Job Offer 2: 120k (might go up to 130), 20k signing bonus, "up to" 25k year end (average online says closer to 15k), No 401k match, 3 weeks total PTO, Job 2 Work/Life: 50-60 hours/week, don't know team. Functional Preference, Not industry preference. Will be traveling Monday to Thursday 60-80% of the year. Which also comes with miles and per diems. Negotiating So I'm currently asking for Job 1 to match, as their functional roles are very very similar. Almost identical in fact. So much so that I could still go back to Company for Job 1 after a few years at Job 2. I'm assuming I'll get bumped from 90 to about 100/105 since Job 1 knows they offer a better work/life balance. But job 2 does have potential to add another 10k My gut says Job 1, but my logical side says Job 2. My wife prefers Job 1 location but Job 2 allows my wife and I more freedom to pay off debt quickly before kids (2-3 years, she plans to work after kids) Major Life Expenses In Future: We live moderately modestly. Cook a lot, but we have food allergies, so it's more expensive. Both our cars have 120k miles, but I'll need a new one next year (eyeing a 15k SUV (Tiguan, Santa Fe, CRV about 2 years old with 30-50k miles) that I'll put about 5K down, and get a 3 year loan, approx 250/mo payment. Hers has 2-3 years left. She will do a similar car type, but by then we'd like to pay cash. We'd like to buy a house (225-300k range depending on the market at the time, well likely qualify for a 400k-500k house, depending on interest rates, but we want to live below our means) in 2-4 years, but are fine renting depending on liquid cash situation. It's approximately the same liquid cost to rent or buy at both locations, all in including taxes, so the equity in housing is advantageous, we might upgrade houses once or twice, but plan to be in same area for 20 years. Vacations are pretty modest, after we did a 2 week euro honeymoon, and lots of academic travel. We do plan to splurge on about $500 in theater season tickets with my signing bonuses. Again, Kids in 1-3 years. I plan to use half of my bonuses as a fund for them, half for debt. We have lots of hand me downs from my sister, who has 3. So PF, I'm asking for a reality check. I'd obviously love to have a better work life balance, spend more time with my new wife. But the miles, the ~40K more per year seems pretty damn tempting. But, once we're a two Income household, it'll be even easier, and you're only young married and without kids once! TLDR; I have two great job offers, high debt, and a few years before kids with wife. Do I choose work life balance for less money, or set self up for future. P.S. I'm aware this is a first world problem and I'm very blessed, even with 130k in student debt. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 11 Nov 2018 05:32 PM PST So last night I very lightly backed into my roommate's car. There isn't any issues with any paint on his car, only minor abrasions on plastic parts of the car. Overall, the replacement cost for the damaged parts is roughly $400 without labor. I want to pay out of pocket for this minor accident. The owner of the car, my roommate's mother, only wants for this to go through insurance so that it is reported (has some vendetta against me). I want to avoid using my insurance to cover the repairs because the increase in rates will be more than the cost to fix the car in the first place. Am I legally required to pay through insurance or am I allowed to fix the car out of pocket against their wishes? Edit: added information [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||
| Does it make sense to switch job for lower salary but better working conditions? Posted: 11 Nov 2018 09:12 AM PST Hello PF. I'm 28 with a salary of $190K. I have good work life balance but was recently offered a different job that pays $175k but I'd probably only have to work 35 hours a week as opposed to the 45 I'm working now. Plus my bonus now is 19K, but my new bonus would be 30k so it's not too much of a pay cut. Also the new job involves a higher chance of meeting celebrities. Should I switch? [link] [comments]  |
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