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    Thursday, April 26, 2018

    Personal Finance WHY should you do that with $X amount?

    Personal Finance WHY should you do that with $X amount?


    WHY should you do that with $X amount?

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 08:24 AM PDT

    A lot of folks ask a lot of questions in /r/personalfinance on a daily basis about "I inherited $X…", "We have saved $X…", "What should I do with $X amount from my tax refund…". All these boil down to the same question: "What should I do with $X" or, more basically, "How should I handle my money?"

    And the #1 answer is: read the Prime Directive. The sidebar contains a bunch of valuable links, but probably none as important and oft-referenced as the Prime Directive, a wiki which tells you in step-by-step format (and even has infographic here and a simpler version here!) exactly what to do with any amount of money you may have.

    Some dispute its effectiveness and why some shouldn't follow it (emotion, risk tolerance, increased cash flow, etc.), but the fact of the matter is that following the prime directive in the order listed will generally yield you the most bang for your buck (read: the least amount in your money paid to other parties / the most amount of your money kept, and the best strategy for earning more money with that money).

    While the wiki does a great job of explaining exactly what to do and in which order to do it, there are also some pretty valid reasons as to WHY you should do it in the order listed (some of which are explained in the wiki and some of which aren't). I'd like to take a second and elaborate on the ones that make the most sense to me (and hopefully others) below.


    Note: this is by no means an exhaustive list nor a 100% correct one, but just my thoughts on the matter, and I'll edit it with additional info as/if other comments come in.


    Question: "Why should I…"

    Step 0: Budget and reduce expenses, set realistic goals

    Answer: to know how best to spend your money, you need to know where your money is going in the first place. Budgeting allows you to see where you're spending your money and allows you to see where you can cut back and reallocate funds towards the higher steps listed here for the most efficient use of the funds you have.

    Step 1: Build an emergency fund

    Answer: to ensure real emergencies don't become financial emergencies. If something unexpected comes your way (job loss, home/car maintenance, unexpected travel, medical emergencies, etc.), you don't have to worry about what credit-affecting monthly minimum you'll have to forego. You'll have the financial security of knowing that you have quick access to funds that will allow you to at least pay for your minimum necessities: utilities, rent/mortgage payment, car payment, monthly minimum credit card payments, etc.

    Step 2: (Take advantage of) employer-sponsored matching funds

    Answer: it's free money. If you're lucky enough that your company offers you a retirement savings plan and even more lucky enough that they also match it, you should take full advantage of that match. But, getting to the heart of it, the number one thing I see is folks questioning "Why should I do this before paying down my debt?" Short answer, again: it's free money. Long answer: whatever the match rate your employer is offering you is a guaranteed return on investment (ROI), and one that's likely a far better ROI than paying off that 5% car loan, or a 4% mortgage, or even paying down that 15% credit card balance you're holding. (Note: by paying off a debt amount at X%, that's a guaranteed return on investment of X% on that same amount, so it can be compared to the ROI you would receive elsewhere in other investments.)

    For example, as my employer does, if your employer matches 25% of your contributions up to $4000 and you contribute that max of $4000 each year, your employer is simply handing you another $1000 in free money every year. That's a guaranteed 25% ROI (not to mention the gains that money will have in the market over time), versus with the ROIs just mentioned.

    Hell, even if you don't invest a penny of it and/or it's a matching HSA contribution or something similar, it's still likely a higher ROI than if you were using that money to pay down debt that's at a lower interest rate than the match rate.

    Step 3: Pay down high-interest debts

    Answer: because of the stock market. This is the step that probably makes the least sense to folks and leaves them asking "Why just my high-interest debts?" The long answer: the benefit of paying off low-interest debts (commonly referred to as anything with <=4% interest rate, though I'd personally suggest and use a figure closer to 5-6%) is generally probably not going to outperform the ROI you would get if you put that money in to the stock market which has a historical average return of ~7%. So, essentially, the money saved by paying off that 3% loan when you could have invested that money at (at least) 7% (and thus yielded a 4% net gain, or 7% - 3%) isn't the most beneficial choice financially.

    However, queue the often-stated disclaimer of "Past performance is no indication of future results." and to quote the Prime Directive specifically: "While this has been true in the past, keep in mind that paying down a loan is a guaranteed return at the loan's interest rate. Stock performance is anything but guaranteed." Basically, that means to invest at your own risk: a 7%+ return is no guarantee, which leads some to have some doubts and modify this step to pay off ALL debts prior to investing further, which generally isn't the most financially beneficial thing to do.

    Step 4: Contribute to an IRA

    Step 5: Save more for retirement

    Step 6: Save for other goals

    Answer: again, because of the stock market. Same as above, the money invested is likely still going to yield a higher ROI than using that same money to pay down low-interest debts. There are far more details as to how and in what exact order you should perform steps 4 and 5 (generally, max out tax-advantaged account before taxable accounts) that I won't go into here but feel free to read more about it here.

    Beyond that (and sort of mixed in with the previous two steps), it's generally debatable and discretionary as how you should spend: sock it away in an HSA if you have health problems or a growing family, a 529 if you have children that will go to college, pay off the low-interest debt if you have a low risk-tolerance, contribute to taxable investment accounts, sock it away in a high-yield savings account, etc.


    Edit 1: There's been a ton of requests for non-US versions of this. The answer: it's in the Prime Directive!

    submitted by /u/aRVAthrowaway
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    Personal finance is about achieving your goals

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 10:47 AM PDT

    Dear r/personalfinance,

    Long time reader, very irregular poster here.

    I am 25 and I have been reading this subreddit since I was a freshman in college. The good advice here prompted me to start budgeting young, open a Roth IRA at 19, and take real control of my finances.

    It's relevant to the story that my parents and family members have atrocious financial habits. No savings for retirement, living well beyond their means, drowning in credit card debt. For the last 10 years, I've seen them struggle over and over again with the stress of not being able to pay bills or to achieve their goals. None of them budget, and nobody wants to hear my advice. I came from an impoverished household because of the bad decisions of my parents. I got through college on a full ride (in part due to merit, in part due to my parents' terrible financial state), which was a huge boon to my finances.

    Fast forward: I'm 25 and a PhD student. I make 60,000 a year between my grad stipend and my side consulting/tutoring work. My post-tax income is maybe 45,000 a year (self employment tax + state taxes take a big bite), and yet I easily maintain a better lifestyle than all of my family because I budget carefully, save, and invest. My liquid net worth is around $50,000.

    Recently, I decided to take a big step and take 7 months off grad school to travel. I have always loved to travel and have used a lot of my budgeting to accomplish smaller trips (in the 2 week to 2 month range). The opportunity to put my life on pause and travel presented itself, by timing the academic job market right and with the blessing of my advisors. The catch, of course, is that a trip for two (with my soon-to-be fiancee) is $25,000.

    But you know, I can afford to spend $25,000 on this once in a lifetime trip. It will certainly hurt my net worth. But $15,000 in Roth contributions + $10,000 cash when I get back, plus an understanding that my household income will clear 150k in the next few years, means that this is something I can afford. My girlfriend and I have planned to save at least 50k per year from when we get back to when we buy a house in the next 5ish years.

    Personal finance is not r/frugal. This subreddit is not about the way to spend the least money, it is about the way to finance your personal life, to leverage good personal financial practice to accomplish your goals. I feel so secure in my current financial position and incredibly grateful for all the advice this subreddit has provided. The freedom it has provided has given me an amazing opportunity to pursue my dreams in ways that would otherwise be entirely impossible.

    Thank you all!

    submitted by /u/jetson_x
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    What's your opinion of buying a car from Costco?

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 06:33 AM PDT

    I'm in the market for a new vehicle, and considering buying from a "no nonsense, no haggling" setup like Costco, or any others you might recommend. I'm curious what your experience was like, whether it's truly worth it in the end, if there are any financial "gotchas", etc.

    submitted by /u/iandouglas
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    Someone hacked into my Dominos profile and used my card. I have all their information.

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 03:13 PM PDT

    On Sunday, someone hacked into my Dominos account and used my "Pizza Profile" to order $50 worth of food for them self. Unfortunately, my card was saved on my Dominos account so they used my debit card. They must have forgotten to change the email though because I received the receipt, which has their name, address and phone number.

    I'm wondering what my next step should be.

    submitted by /u/imtylerdurden
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    Pay for law school by liquidating stock or taking on debt?

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 03:02 PM PDT

    Hi all! I'll be going to law school this fall, total cost of attendance is ~$250K over three years. My cash savings are ~$100K, so will need another ~$150K and am trying to figure out the optimal way to pay.

    I have access to about that amount in equities - some in a Nasdaq-focused mutual fund and the rest in a blue chip tech stock. If you were in my position, would you liquidate the equities or take out debt at ~5-6% interest rate? In other words, do you think the market will grow at a rate greater than the interest rate? Would capital gains taxes make the debt-financed option more attractive?

    Thanks for your input! Also, I recognize that I'm in an incredibly fortunate position to be in the position where taking debt is an economic choice, rather than a necessity.

    submitted by /u/C-Money808
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    Employer rescinded offer after request to negotiate salary

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 03:36 PM PDT

    Not sure if I'm posting in the right place so please don't bite my head off! Also on mobile so forgive my formatting. I recently completed the interview process with a company and was given an official offer letter. The salary was lower than what I was expecting so I sent an email to the hiring manager requesting an adjustment to the starting salary. The manager rejected the counter offer and actually recinded the original offer. I'm devastated as I was really looking forward to working with this company. Is this normal?? I've never experienced this before. Usually if the manager rejects the counter offer they will leave the original salary offer open for acceptance.

    Salary was never discussed in the two part interview process. This is probably my fault, I never asked but the job posting did have a salary range so I assumed salary was negotiable. I will admit I'm not very comfortable with talking about money or negotiating salary (I'm pretty introverted and shy in general). Should salary have been negotiated before an official offer of employment? In my previous work experience, I have only negotiated salary after an offer of employment, not before.

    How can I improve my salary negotiation skills and prevent this from happening in the future?

    submitted by /u/AnonymousPenquin
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    My parked car was totaled by someone without insurance.

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 06:59 PM PDT

    So my car was totaled a few nights ago by a college student who fell asleep at the wheel. She ended up slamming into the back of my car while it was parked in front of my apartment (street parking is all that's available). It was so loud that it woke me up. She wasn't injured, the police came and took all of our insurance information, and both of our vehicles were towed. I have been in contact with her insurance agency and she had already made a claim and admitted fault seeing as I wasn't even in my vehicle. I talked to my insurance but wanted to file with hers so I wouldn't have to pay a deductible. Her insurance agent said she was fully covered and I could get a rental vehicle and that I would be fully reimbursed for it.

    Fast forward to today. I called her insurance agent back because I hadn't heard anything. He said the claim was canceled because she hadn't been making payments so she wasn't insured with them anymore and now I would have to file under my insurance. They were going to send me a letter to inform me instead of calling me back. I mentioned this to my insurance because it sounded fishy for her to have already filed a claim with them and gotten a claim number. My insurance doesn't cover rentals and I would have to pay a larger deductible for being hit by an uninsured motorist. I filed a claim with them but they advised I take her to court to claim the rest. I am now paying over $1000 already and they haven't even inspected the vehicle yet or hired a lawyer. I just graduated college last semester and have a very small emergency fund ($2500). I had just finished paying off my vehicle (2014 Mazda CX-5) last month and I had just put all new tires on it two weeks ago which totaled around $600.

    I looked at the same model vehicle in my area and have an idea on price. Do I need to make sure the settlement includes sales tax and dealer fees? Could I put the receipt for the tires in the claim? I contacted her today and left a voicemail but I'm almost positive she won't call back. I know she is probably broke since she's in college (hell I was and still am) and I wanted to give her a chance to make amends without lawyers. Any suggestions on what I should do or where to go from here? Any advise would be great because I'm very new to all of this.

    Thank you my Reddit heroes.

    submitted by /u/Coarez
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    Random phone calls a couple of times per month wanting to confirm the last 4 digits of my SSN. When I ask who they are, they only say "it's regarding a personal business matter".

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 08:43 AM PDT

    After some research it looks like they are most likely a collection agency. However, my credit is clean. I just reviewed all 3 bureaus and other than my credit cards, there was nothing on file for all 3. Nothing in collections, lien or outstanding balance.

    What's happening here? Could it be some kind of debt that hasn't yet hit collections and they are trying to settle before it hits collection? To my recollection, there shouldn't be any kind of debt to my name.

    Appreciate the help!

    submitted by /u/y0um3b3dn0w
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    First time home buyer free money?

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 05:29 PM PDT

    I was thinking about buying a house sometime this year and I don't know much about how it all works. There's a lot of general websites that tell you "Top 10 mistakes home buyers make" Or "Tips for first time home buyers" that don't seem to get very specific so I figured I'd post here for advice.

    First of all my budget is 200k with some wiggle room. I have 17k available in my regular cash investment account and savings and 38k available in my IRAs. I have very little in a 401k since I just switched jobs and just rolled my old one over into a traditional IRA. I also have no debt. I would rather not withdraw money from my IRAs but I want to put 20% down on my house to avoid paying extra for mortgage insurance. My parents said they would help me with the remainder of my down payment so I was thinking about doing that and paying them back.

    I found a place I really liked but its a bit over my budget at 220k. (plus whatever other costs that are gonna come with the house) Since I started searching for homes I've been hearing a lot about grants and ways you can get "free money" for being a first time home buyer like "bond money" or something like that. Whenever I hear these things i immediately assume there is a catch. What are the various grants, bonds, or whatever where I can get this money to help out with my down payment without having to borrow from my parents and are there any cons to these programs like an increased rate or something that I should know about?

    Any input or advice on general home buying would be appreciated too.

    submitted by /u/esu418
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    Buying First Home on Single Income

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 03:40 PM PDT

    Greetings. First, let me say thank you for all the wisdom you provide on this subreddit. I regularly skim it and find it helping to influence may of my decisions. I'm taking a hard look at my finances and trying to make a plan and was hoping for some guidance from you fine folks.

    I'm a 33 year old woman who owns my own business and I want a home. My reasons for this are many, but include I have a dog, I run my business out of my home which is currently a 550sqft apt, and I garden. When I say I garden, I mean 8 8x4 raised beds producing a significant amount of food. I've successfully grown hundreds of pounds of potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, zucchini, just to name a few. I'm also an avid outdoorswoman and go camping regularly and having a proper area to store that gear as well as to practice with it, i.e. a backyard, would be amazing. Another major reason is the write offs it would give me on my taxes. This year I forked out 3.8k in taxes.

    I've been approved for $140k with 20% down with a Conventional Loan at 4.75% from Benchmark Mortgage. Considering looking for a 2nd one.
    Home's location would be in the west Dallas Fort Worth Metro. $120-$140k can get me a pretty solid 800-1200sqft home with 1/4th an acre.

    Credit Score - 781
    Debt - None
    Income - 36k last year / 45k this year
    Savings: 8k
    US Savings Bonds: 28k if Cashed Today (90% are fully matured, a few are not)
    Asset: I own a small home in Arkansas my mother lives in rent free. Worth approx 40k.
    Car: Own
    Health Insurance: None
    Life Insurance: None
    Retirement: None

    Expenses (Current)
    Rent/Insurance/Pet/Water/Trash: $920
    Electricity: Avg $150
    Medication: $160
    Pets: $30 (Food/Vet Estimate)
    Car Insurance: $90
    Internet: $90 (300/50)
    Cell: $100 ($60 / $40ish finishing paying off a phone) - Considering moving to Google Pi
    Food: $300 (Was $400-$500 a few months ago) - I'd like to decrease this more. I've eliminated eating out and door dashing. Cooking exclusively at home.
    Luxury / Entertainment / Misc: $500 to $1000 - This has been eating into my savings. Impulse spending. Buying a $500 camera, a new TV a few months ago, PS4, 1k in camping gear, $50/mo in Games, etc.

    submitted by /u/Syntria
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    Advice on Which 401(k) Funds to Choose

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 06:47 PM PDT

    My benefits just became active for a job I recently started and I was looking at my 401(k) online and deciding which funds to invest in. The company uses Fidelity, but it doesn't look like I have access to the Fidelity Freedom Index Funds.

    Which of the following fund options should I invest in? My goal is to try to follow the advice listed in this sub and get a good target date fund (2055 or 2060). I tried looking these funds up but most of what I found was really confusing.

    FIAM INX TD 2055 X (blended investments)
    FIAM INX TD 2060 X (blended investments)
    FIAM INX TD INCOME X (blended investments)
    FID FREEDOM 2055 K (FNSDX) (blended investments)
    FID FREEDOM 2060 K (FNSFX) (blended investments)
    FID FREEDOM INC K (FNSHX) (blended investments)

    I also have access to these stock / bond funds:
    DH LARGE CAP I (DHLRX)
    DODGE & COX STOCK (DODGX)
    FID GROWTH CO POOL
    PRMCP ODYSSEY STOCK (POSKX)
    SP 500 INDEX PL CL D
    TRP GROWTH STOCK (PRGFX)
    AMG TS MID CAP GTH Z (TMDIX)
    FID EXT MKT IDX IPR (FSMAX)
    FID LOW PR STK POOL
    HARBOR MDCAP VAL INST (HAMVX)
    MERIDIAN SM CP GR IS (MSGRX)
    WT SMALL CAP VALUE
    ABDN EMERG MKTS INST (ABEMX)
    FID DIVSFD INTL POOL
    FID INTL INDEX IPR (FSPSX)
    HRDG LVNR INTL EQ IS (HLMIX)
    MFS GLOBAL EQUITY R4 (MWELX)
    VAN EM MKT ST IDX IS (VEMIX)
    STABLE VALUE FUND E
    DODGE & COX INCOME (DODIX)
    FID US BOND IDX IPR (FXNAX)
    TCW MW TOT RTN BD E
    FID GOVT MMRK PRM (FZCXX)

    I'm also wondering if I should add money to this beyond employee match (5%) or if it would be better to switch to an IRA and get better options for funds.

    Thanks everyone for all the helpful advice.

    submitted by /u/ozykingofkings11
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    Contract offer for double current salary, what should my wife consider before accepting

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 05:01 AM PDT

    My wife has a corporate gig making a great salary for her age. She has been with the company a little over a year, rumor has it they will be laying off some people though. She gets health and dental and like 6 months paid if she has a kid, she participates in the 401k and the match at the end of the year (or would lay you off right beforehand), participates in stock match as well. I don't think she would be laid off if the company did go that route, she is lead on projects and paid less than others on the team, but you never know.

    So she got a recent offer for a contract roll which is effectively double what she is making now. 150k-200k roughly total salary. Paid hourly. She will lose health Care, but will I be able to roll her into mine? I have a position at another company. What are taxes going to be like, this is in Atlanta, Ga. Does she have to form her own company to be paid? The pay seems great, but there is obviously going to be some things in between that need to be hashed out. Anyone with experience with taking a contract job wanna chime in?

    Thanks

    submitted by /u/will_workfor_tacos
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    Girlfriend's Student Loan Structure has changed --- Please help

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 05:17 PM PDT

    Hello All,

    So my girlfriend currently has 3 loans taken out by the same company. They recently changed their structure of paying them where it pays off the highest interest loan with all of the money first before paying any of the other two loans off (versus the old structure that paid minimum payments to all three loans). The company says this structure is better for the person who took out the loan. My question now is: In all cases, should my girlfriend continue to put any extra money towards her highest interest loan or are there circumstances in which she would want to pay off her second or third loans (ex: if the second or third loan's totals become higher than the highest interest rate loan by X amount...).

    Thanks for any help you can provide. If you require additional facts or if I am not stating my situation clearly, please let me know.

    Edit: Also, at this point should she just restructure the loans under a new interest rate?

    submitted by /u/Tai_Lung
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    30, little savings, no retirement. Advice/resources for someone who feels like they're behind and easily confused by financial terms?

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 02:05 PM PDT

    Hi all! I'd like to start by thanking you for taking the time to read and respond, and for any advice you may have!

    I am 30 years old and graduated from college with my bachelor's 2 years ago. I worked as a server in a restaurant while in college to support living on my own and pay my own tuition, and while I was fortunate to make enough to live and graduate with only $6,000 in loans, it meant taking much longer to graduate, and I finished school 28 years old, with absolutely no savings and nothing started for retirement.

    After graduating I landed a job in my field pretty quickly, that paid alright for an entry level position, but didn't offer any sort retirement benefits. I'm making just enough to cover bills and I've tried to save as much as possible but every time I start to get a little stashed away, something comes up that knocks me pretty far back, so I'm still not saving for retirement.

    In a week I will start a new job that offers a 401k that they match to a certain extent (I'm not entirely sure how much). The job also pays a little more hourly, but I've talked to a few people who have left my current company for this other company who say that yes, I will be making more hourly, but after they take out for all the various benefits, I'll be bringing home about the same amount I am now. But hey, the way I see it if I'm bringing home the same amount and gaining a 401k, that's not too bad!

    I feel like I'm getting a late start to this whole savings thing and while the 401k is a great start, I worry it's not enough. I've read around some of the threads looking for information, but I just feel so clueless when it comes to financial planning. Not to sound like an idiot, but I don't even understand what half the terms I'm reading mean and what these different accounts or investments are... I've toyed with meeting with a financial planner, but at this point in time, I barely have enough money to save, and I'm worried what a financial planner might cost. Any advice or resources for someone late to the game? Any resources to help me undertand what all these different accounts/portfolios/investments/terms mean and what their pros and cons are? Any tips for saving when you barely have enough to cover things already?

    Other pertinent information- I currently have a little over $4000 in student loan debt left. I know that's very little, but I feel like even though I make my regular monthly payments, and throw extra at it whenever I can, it's taking forever to dwindle. I do not have any other debts- no credit card debt, no car payments, no mortgage, no personal loans. My father is very out of the picture and my mother is currently in her 50's, unemployed, very very little savings, and nothing for retirement, so I know there will come a time that I will be supporting her, too.

    Sorry, I know this was very long but I'm terrified of falling in my mother's situation of having nothing when the time comes and I feel so overwhelmed and confused whenever I try to start a plan.

    TL;DR: I'm 30 years old, $1000 in savings, no retirement, $4000 in debt, making enough to cover living expenses and save enough for unexpected expenses and small emergencies. Next week I start a new job with a company matched 401k. What else can I do to save for retirement this late in the game? What resources are there to help me understand what all this finacial planning jargon means? Where can I find information on different approaches and the pros and cons of varying accounts or types of investments?

    Thanks again!

    Edit: forgot to ask- I have an acquaintance who works for a finacial group who keeps trying to get me to sit down with her so she can sell me her pitch and sell me retirement stuff/life insurance. I've been reluctant because the company she's with seems very MLM-y. One of her arguments for buying policies from her is that 401k's aren't a good retirement asset because "all it takes is another housing market crash or recession and you'll lose it all." Is that true? I was under the impression that a 401k is just like a savings account on steroids and at the end of the day it's just my money sitting in there?

    submitted by /u/larrythegirl
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    £40,000 inheritance. Best way to maximise it?

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 06:20 PM PDT

    Hi all.

    A few years ago I received £40,000 in inheritance from my grandparents. My mum has had it sitting in a bond for the past 3 years but that only adds about £1400 every 2 years (I know, "only"...)

    My question is, is there a better option to use this money? The restriction is I can only use it as a down payment on a house as my mother will only let me use it to get on the housing ladder (sensible lady that mother).

    I have no use for it at the moment as I currently live in China and won't be buying a house for at least 3 more years.

    Is there an investment choice in the U.K that will yield more profit or are there other bonds that might be more profitable?

    Cheers!

    submitted by /u/Press_X_To_Not_Die
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    Passive cash flow success stories?

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 12:16 PM PDT

    I'm looking for some advice / direction in approaching the acquisition of a new residual income stream with positive cash flow, and I was hoping that some of you would be willing to share success stories that you have experienced in this regard.

    Background: I am a corporate CFO and have relatively high income, wife is homemaker, (we are mid-late 30's) I have undergrad degree and MBA, minimal debt, top notch credit. Currently we have an investment portfolio which includes, cash, stocks, bonds, rental real estate and I have a part time consulting business in addition to my W2 job. Thus far this combination has been effective in accomplishing steady income, capital preservation, equity growth and tax shelter.

    I'm not looking to convert what I'm doing now as it is certainly successful, I'm looking for new ideas which I may not be familiar with. I don't want to limit responses with criteria, so minimally...

    - Nothing sketchy or illegal, I would want a bank to be willing to finance the idea in theory

    - Must be cash flow positive

    - As passive an investment as possible

    Very interested in any ideas you may have... so that said 123 go!

    submitted by /u/ChazinPA
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    Age 23, $47k Debts, Time for Bankruptcy?

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 04:59 PM PDT

    Thank you for reading this post, it is on behalf of a dear friend, could really use some strategic guidance.

    My friend is 23 years old, was administratively discharged from the military, and is back in town. HS diploma, no secondary education, sharp mind and good personality. No dependents, single. No property, bank accounts are under $500. He is under great stress and considering bankruptcy to start-over. Currently living with his parents in town, but has an ultimatum of 30 days to find housing.

    While in the military, he acknowledges he made poor decisions with money, but wants to turn his life around. Is starting to live more responsibly, frugally, and is much more careful with money, but the present debts are below, most are past-due 20 days:

    • Total Debts: ~$47,000
    • Navy Federal Credit Union
    • VISA Card - $5800 / 18%
    • Line of Credit 1 - $13000 @ 15%
    • Line of Credit 2 - $900 @ 15%
    • Personal Loan - $7400 @ 18%
    • Used Vehicle Loan - $19000 @ 6% (may be repo'd within 2 months)
    • Cell Phone - $800

    He is currently searching for better employment, but has two part times jobs at minimum wage in California, $11/hr * 45hrs/week. $1500/mo take-home.

    Though he is now spending frugally, the debt burden is crushing, what are some options?

    Ideas I had, but don't know enough about:

    1. Bankruptcy -- He is young, and can take a hit for 7 years as he currently owns no assets. If this is viable, who handles? Bankruptcy attorney? Do the paperwork yourself?

    2. Consolidate debts into a long-term loan. What companies might offer this for a variety of debts? His credit union did not offer any options aside from "pay your bills".

    Looking forward to your constructive inputs on how my friend can get back on track. Thank you.

    submitted by /u/QuackPhD
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    Owe money to paypal can it affect my credit?

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 07:39 PM PDT

    When I was 13 I made a PayPal account and faked my date of birth. Three years later 3 sold someone an in-game item for $30 and he payed and got his item. He later disputed this charge and since it was a digital item I had no proof he actually received it so PayPal ended up removing $30 out of my account and charging me an $20 service fee. I ended up with a balance of -$50 USD. A year later I get a letter in the mail addressed to me from a debt collector saying I owe them $50 USD and that i have 30 days to dispute the claim or they will assume the debt is valid. I'm 17 and I have no PayPal accounts open and I received this letter today. Will this affect my credit what should I do?

    submitted by /u/4ThroAway
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    I am a US citizen, but not a US resident. I'm going to live abroad and live off my savings, how can I bank with this status?

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 06:31 AM PDT

    Hi all, thanks for taking the time to read.

    I'm a US citizen and I've lived abroad for a few years working full time. I work for a foreign company. I do not have a US bank account, I only have a bank account here. I am about to go start living abroad and living off my savings for a few years and I don't want to keep using the account I have here in this country, it's not the best bank.

    I called a US bank and asked them what my options were, but they gave me the equivalent of a verbal blank stare. So.. you're going to travel and be a resident of where? I won't be a resident of well.. anywhere. I don't want to pretend to be living in Delaware or something when I'm actually traveling all over, but I also don't want to have to open a new bank account constantly, or get killed by fees as I live abroad.

    I'll be staying in 3 different countries over 4 different years , ideally I'd have just one account during all of this time - I won't be working or making any money at all during this time, just living off my savings.

    Any ideas how I can do this?

    Thanks again for taking the time to read and help me - I've researched like crazy on this subreddit and others and tried plenty hard to solve this for myself, but I'm quite confused.

    Thanks.

    submitted by /u/Duwapduwap
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    Can a gym ruin my credit?

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 12:26 PM PDT

    Over a year ago I signed up for a local gym, as time passed I started missing and stopped going. At this point I was receiving calls due to the fact that my membership was up for renewal I had informed them that due to the fact that I was no longer attending I had plans to just cancel. Due to a busy schedule with school and work I never hard the time to go during the course they had someone there to assist my. To top it off around that time I had lost the debit card that was used for the gym to charge me every month. About a month or so passed before I received a call from the gym saying they were having trouble billing me, I kindly informed them that I had already mentioned due to the fact I no longer had time to attend the gym I had no intentions of renewing my membership and had asked to cancel last time I was called. The lady just said shed make a note and that was the end I ever heard from them. Recently i started receiving these calls form an add number which I always happen to miss and they do not leave a detailed message besides the standard please return our call. Today as i was going through my email I noticed an email that contained the same number on which I was receiving calls from, I googled them and found it a collection agency. I called curious as to what it was and the lady on the other line mentioned i owed 200$ from the gym and how did I want to handle the issue. I was lost and told her i wasn't aware of any payments I owed and I hadn't even received anything to which she vary rudely said I was mailed out a letter. I told her I hadn't received anything in the mail and was not going to pay for anything until I see documents and asked if she could send me another letter. She was so rude and responded why she would even do that when i didn't receive the previous one she sent out. She said shed email me and id have to call her back and decide how i wanted to handle the issue. My question is can this affect my credit score even tho I used my debit card and it was what was on file for the automatic pay?

    submitted by /u/Jenn_89
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    I was an idiot and now I’m in credit card debt and need help

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 06:05 PM PDT

    Credit card 1- $7,000 ($130/month) 2.-$5,000 ($155) 3.-$1,800 ($50) 4.-$2,500 ($100)

    Rent- $780 Car-$327 Car Insurance- $150

    I make $1000 every two weeks. YA GIRL IS STRUGGLING. Yes. I'm looking for a new job. When I decided to submerge myself in this debt I was making more money but ended up getting laid off. Trying to get this under control before my student loans kick in.

    I've tried to do debt consolidation and keep getting declined. I have no idea what to do. Thinking bankruptcy? Any ideas?

    submitted by /u/amazinggstatic
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    Is it a good idea to consolidate debts against my house?

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 06:03 PM PDT

    My house is fully paid for, have about 20k in various debts. Wife is about to start selling real estate but needs desk fees. And I'd like to work on building a trading portfolio.

    In total we are looking at approximately 30k including start up costs. It makes sense to me to take out a 60k mortgage over 5years to leave a nice cash buffer to get through the first little bit. Work a part time job as well to pay it off.

    When I ran numbers, it worked out to around $130/day income required to pay it back in time and maintain current expenses.

    Is this a good idea? How much extra loan is too much? Should I be considering anything else?

    submitted by /u/shagdidz
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    1099 vs. W2 no benefits vs W2 w/ benefits

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 02:14 PM PDT

    I'm interviewing/applying. I've spoken with a couple of places that are offering positions as either 1099 or W2 w/ no benefits, which makes it a little more difficult to compare.

    What percentage of salary are benefits worth? What about 1099 vs W2?

    e.g. One place is offering $80/hr on 1099 or $68/hr on W2 with no benefits. How do I compare that to some place offering $100k - 120k with benefits?

    submitted by /u/nkillgore
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    Injured in a bike accident and can't work for 6 weeks. I bartend. Should I file for unemployment?

    Posted: 26 Apr 2018 08:06 PM PDT

    I've been working for this restaurant company for over 4 years working an average of 28 hours a week. I just broke my collarbone and won't be able to work. Is unemployment something I should look into? Am I even elligible in Oregon? Do I have alternatives for income during this period? Any insight would be helpful.

    submitted by /u/michaelmiltonisacunt
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