Personal Finance Weekend Discussion and Victory Thread for the week of April 27, 2018 |
- Weekend Discussion and Victory Thread for the week of April 27, 2018
- Amazon Prime Subscription
- Seriously consider a trade job instead of undergraduate college if it doesn't seem right for you
- I just got fired for the first time...now what?
- Just put $8,100 on my card for dog who got hit by car, feeling lost
- "Mental Health on a Budget" - In-depth post on a psychologist's blog, great resource
- My boss forgot to add me into the system when I started my new job, now its payday and I cant get my check for another 2 weeks. Is there anything I can do in this situation?
- Apartment deal looks too good. Legit?
- Another perspective on Amazon Prime
- Are we consigning ourselves to being house poor?
- Brokerage Recommendations?
- I want to start a small business and have questions.
- Am I taking crazy pills regarding the cash back rewards on my Sallie May Barclaycard?
- 2018 HSA Annual Max Changed - Again!
- Bank wants auto loan to be "unsecured" to "save paperwork hassles." Red flag?
- 28 years old. My new boss tried to get me to sign an 'investigation' paper before giving me coaching about my performance and attendance. I declined to sign unless I have my union rep with me. I'm a little nervous about the ordeal and I've never gone through something like this. Advice?
- i have credit card debt thats is over 7 years old, how should i go about this situation?
- The Seattle conundrum
- How do I choose the best investment professional for a million dollars?
- My in-network provider sent my bloodwork to an out-of-network lab. I'm being charged for tests that should have been included in my free anual check up. Advice is appreciated!
- Why is it better to start a Roth IRA rather than contribute more to your 401k?
- Universal Life Insurance as a Retirement Account
- Student Loan consolidation
- 1stFinancialBank USA is going to charge $25-$55 annualy on their credit cards starting 7/3/18
- Just inherited roughly $250,000, but it wasn’t supposed to be mine. What to do?
| Weekend Discussion and Victory Thread for the week of April 27, 2018 Posted: 27 Apr 2018 02:06 PM PDT If you need help, please check the PF Wiki to see if your question might be answered there.This thread is for personal finance discussions, questions, and sharing your success stories:
A big thank you to the many PFers who take time to answer other people's questions! For past threads, please search the Weekly Archive. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 27 Apr 2018 05:34 AM PDT Amazon Prime membership costs are going up to $120 a year (from $100). Personally, I don't use anything other than 2-day shipping, and I order maybe 20 times a year so I don't think renewing my subscription is a worthwhile investment for me. NOTE: The student price remained unchanged at $60 a year. I strongly encourage everyone to look at how they use Amazon, and whether Amazon Prime is worth it for them at this new price point. Here's a link to ending your subscription if that is what you want to do: https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html/ref=aw?ie=UTF8&nodeId=201118010 [link] [comments]  |
| Seriously consider a trade job instead of undergraduate college if it doesn't seem right for you Posted: 27 Apr 2018 08:36 AM PDT A 4-year degree just isn't what it used to be and there are good paying trade jobs available these days because everyone thinks they need a 4-year degree. [link] [comments]  |
| I just got fired for the first time...now what? Posted: 27 Apr 2018 03:25 PM PDT Posting from a throwaway. So as the title states, I just got fired from my job with no prior indication and no severance. Firing was due to "performance issues" but even my immediate manager was fighting to keep me on board, decision came from higher up. Enough background, on to the juicy stuff. I have an emergency savings account with $20,000 in it that is easily accessible. My previous salary was $38,000. Rent is $725/mo. but living with my brother and his wife. Only other debt is my car at $234/mo. What can/should I do in my current position (aside from apply, apply, apply)? [link] [comments]  |
| Just put $8,100 on my card for dog who got hit by car, feeling lost Posted: 27 Apr 2018 06:44 PM PDT Hi everyone. Long story short I was dogsitting for my best friend and when I went to pick Andy up she bolted into traffic and got hit. I'm a 26 year old female and she's a 4.5 year old female boxer pup. I don't like being in debt and I'm a little confused with how my line of credit works. I have a 4.5% variable interest on the whole bill of $8,100. Does that mean it's going to be 4.5% of the bill per month or per year? Do banks ever give a leniency for emergencies or unplanned expenses such as this? (Ie. No interest for 3 months)? The reason it's on my card is because the owner was on a business trip and someone had to pay to save her, he doesn't have the money to pay me back right away. I've started an online fundraising campaign but donations aren't coming in as quickly as I'd of thought which is why I'm starting to panic and seek other routes. I don't earn that much and this is overwhelming, trying to figure out all options. Thank you in advance. [link] [comments]  |
| "Mental Health on a Budget" - In-depth post on a psychologist's blog, great resource Posted: 27 Apr 2018 11:15 AM PDT I came across this post today on a blog I really like. The blog is written by a psychologist, and the post is quite in-depth. I see quite a few posts on Personal Finance where the poster is in clear need of mental health support, but is struggling to pay for the services they need. I hope this resource can be helpful to those people. "Everyone knows medical care in the US is expensive even with insurance and prohibitively expensive without it. I have a lot of patients who are uninsured, or who bounce on and off insurance, or who have trouble affording their co-pays. This is a collection of tricks I've learned (mostly from them) to help deal with these situations. They are US-based and may not apply to other countries. Within the US, they are a combination of legal and probably-legal; I've tried to mark which is which but I am not a lawyer and can't make promises. None of this is medical advice; use at your own risk." http://slatestarcodex.com/2018/04/25/mental-health-on-a-budget/ [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 27 Apr 2018 10:47 AM PDT Recently, a couple weeks ago I began my new job as a back of the house cook for a Panda Express. I am supposed to get paid bi-weekly, with my first check coming in yesterday. My boss told me that I will not be able to get paid until ANOTHER 2 weeks because he forgot to put my payment information in when I started working there. Not too sure what this means but I have bills that were supposed to be paid off and this puts a big delay on that. Is there anything I can do in this type of situation besides accept it and wait? [link] [comments]  |
| Apartment deal looks too good. Legit? Posted: 27 Apr 2018 03:11 PM PDT Hey guys, I found an apartment that might be too good to be true but at the same time, sounds 100% legit. Just posting it here to make sure that it will be a good idea to sign. Apartment is $1200 a month for a 1 yr lease, afterwards rate adjustments will be based on consumer index. All utilities paid for in a high COL area. It is really huge and new. The catch is that the owner of the building, who also owns the apartment won't live there but he wants to use the place as an address. Instead of leaving it empty, he is renting it out. I will only see him once a month for mail collection. I saw the listing and set up an appointment to see the appointment. The agent came and showed me around. Everything checks out and looks exactly like the images in the listing. The lease is managed by a huge real estate firm that starts with "Re-". I will be signing with them. The situation is only temporary. I expect to rent for only a couple of years. The conditions are perfect for me. The listing is a good $400 cheaper than other places of the same quality. Does everything check out? [link] [comments]  |
| Another perspective on Amazon Prime Posted: 27 Apr 2018 08:13 PM PDT The math still makes Prime an undervalued commodity for it offers: convenience. It's a business model that allows many companies to thrive because they offer something that saves time. Consider this scenario. Once you cancel your membership, every time you need some toothpaste, you can't place the order until you have at least $25 worth of other stuff to get the free shipping. Then, you need to wait 4-6 days to get it. Many many years ago when I was too cheap to buy Prime, I often found myself overspending on stuff that I didn't immediately need. Especially in the days I took public transportation everywhere, going to the store was often time consuming. There's only so much i can buy in a single trip because I have to carry it all back. Hence, like most people, I caved Fast forward to today, the $20 or 20% increase may seem like a lot, but it really is not unless you are struggling to put food on the table. Let's look at it a little differently. The monthly cost only changes it from $8.25 to $9.92/month. That means I need to forego less than four starbucks grande lattes/fraps a year, and I'll be healthier too. Let's compare to netflix. They hiked their two-stream fee went from $7.99 to $9.99 in Oct 2015, then up again to $10.99 last October ($95.98/$119.88/$131.88 annually). Most of you, including myself, probably griped about these price hikes and even threatened cancelling. Yet here we are, still bingeing on Stranger Things and Marvel tv shows while Netflix continues to gain new subscribers. The effective annual cost per adult is $60/year. If you are paying full $119 but have a trustworthy significant other (e.g. family/best friend), effectively making it $59.50/yr per person. Household settings allows you to share with one other adult. For those in college, you can continue to get the student rate of $59/yr for 4 years. Last time Amazon hiked their price by $20 from $79 to $99 was four years ago. Since that time, we now have echo, lockers, free rush one-day shipping in metros, fresh, primenow, and the list goes on. You might not see the immediate value today, but this hike funds the next wave of benefits, like groceries to your door. With that said, I think people are overreacting today by cancelling. Most of you will come crawling back in a few weeks after they realize how much they value convenience. [link] [comments]  |
| Are we consigning ourselves to being house poor? Posted: 27 Apr 2018 04:13 PM PDT My spouse and I are considering purchasing a home in the coming months but are considering the impact on our short and long term financial health. We are committed to living in the SF penninsula (by virtue of my contract) for a minimum of 7 more years. Income: Combined total income of $77K+$215K. Assuming my husband doesn't change jobs (see below), our incomes increase annually and predictively in the following manner over the next 7 years. Mine: $77K-->$79K-->$79K-->$79K-->$85K-->$89K-->$94K. His: $215K-->$235K-->$285K-->$325K-->$360K-->$390K-->$415K. Total: $292K-->$314K-->$354-->$394K-->$445K-->$479K-->$509K. Current financial obligations: Our existing debt is student loans and a car payment. My husband has $181K remaining at 3.75% amortized over 8 more years ($2032/month payment). My loans are a total of $149K at 5.6%, currently in income based repayment (taxes are married filing separately to maintain this) with expected Public Service Loan Forgiveness in 10 years; payments this year are $1052/month but will drop to ~$100/month next year and for the remainder of the time when based on my salary alone (we are assuming no changes to PSLF program). Finally, we have a $432/month no interest car payment with 5 more payments remaining. Current assets: We are young professionals and my husband had been working for two years. I am just finishing graduate school and start work next month. We have about $20K in cash on hand and a total of $48K in our retirement accounts. He currently contributes the statutory max to his 401K each year, and we are determining how much I will contribute once I start work next month. We live in the SF Bay area. Rent+utilities for our 1 bedroom is approximately $2300 a month and we live in a desirable neighborhood close to our jobs. Were we to continue renting over the next 7-8 years, we would likely move to a 2 bedroom unit in 2 years which we anticipate could cost somewhere between $2800-3200/month. We also anticipate having a baby approximately 2-3 years from now. The biggest variable (other than earthquake/recession etc.) is if my husband will change jobs approximately 2 years from now. Doing so would likely be associated with a max of a 40%, min of 20% immediate pay cut, with potentially minimal raises each year after that. We are considering buying a 2 bedroom condo/townhouse/single-family home in silicon valley where we live and work. The NYT rent vs. buy calculator says that we should buy a house at ~$950K if we cannot rent a comparable property to rent for ~$2600. We have had a budget for years (we typically overspend the budget) and projected the impact of a mortgage against our budget in many permutations including: --$900K home with 10% down (borrowing money from family with a flexible obligation to repay) --$900K home with 20% down (again borrowing money from parents, although would need to repay some of this within 8 years) --$1M home with 10% and 20% down with similar obligations as above. --Each of the above scenarios accounting for a 20%, 30%, and 40% paycut for my husband. Our math says that we could do it relatively easily if he doesn't change jobs, but we would be tight month to month if he takes a 30-40% paycut. We haven't accounted for any tax benefit from mortgage interest deduction (given that this isn't a month to month benefit and occurs only 1x/year and is subject to changes). When we look at our budgets, our housing costs to income ratio, and our loan to income ratio (even including the nebulous obligations to repay our parents), it doesn't seem like a terrible financial decision. But given how unbelievably huge of a purchase this is, would appreciate some third party analysis of our situation. Given the nature of the area and our current situation, we aren't even sure what we can get in the 900K-1M price range. But, we are looking for a starter home, and want this to be a sound, rational, economic decision--not an emotional one. Are we crazy? Are we right? Should we wait and risk interest rates (and housing prices in the bay area) continuing to go up? Thanks in advance for any thoughts/input/judgement! Please ask the hard questions we aren't asking ourselves! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 27 Apr 2018 06:06 PM PDT Howdy folks! First time caller here. Here's my situation: I have an Traditional IRA, Roth IRA, and a regular brokerage account. I'm currently not satisfied with my broker, as the support is non-existent and I am trying to find something better. I am a former financial advisor and currently a CPA, so I have pretty extensive experience in finance. I'm specifically looking for a brokerage platform that will allow access to international markets, options, and hold my normal brokerage and IRA accounts. Of course, reducing fees would be nice, too. :) I thank you for your input! [link] [comments]  |
| I want to start a small business and have questions. Posted: 27 Apr 2018 06:47 PM PDT It's a one-man general handyman position. I'm realistic: I'm absolutely hoping I can earn enough to support myself but it's more about hating every boss ive ever had and being the captain of my own ship. Sole proprietor. What is a schedule c form and what does it do? Would I require any sort of license? What other legal documentation is required? Does a business need to be started under the owner's legal name or can "John Bennet" run the place under his high school knickname "Benny-Jay?" [link] [comments]  |
| Am I taking crazy pills regarding the cash back rewards on my Sallie May Barclaycard? Posted: 27 Apr 2018 07:51 PM PDT So I'll preface this by saying I am aware that the Sallie May Barclaycard benefits changed a few months ago and are no longer what they used to be. However, they still have at least 1% cash back on all purchases with higher %'s on a few categories. I've had my card for several years and occasionally redeemed points, the results of which never gave me pause. It's been several months since I've last redeemed anything, so I decided it was time. My last month's statement was $3,700 which would mean at least $37 cash back at 1%, which I knew would at least get me above the minimum $25 needed. My cash back balance was actually at $355, so this was potentially going to get me to $400 cash back. However, even with the new "balance" of $400 cash back, the online portal is saying I am only eligible redeeming $4, which they won't even do since the minimum redemption is $25. I contacted Barclaycard and they said I needed a cashback "balance" of $2500 to redeem $25. But if I only got about $37 of "balance" from a $3,700 of actual purchases, that would mean I would need to make $250,000 worth of purchases to have a "cash back balance of $2,500". And if that $2,500, "cash back balance" only redeems me $25 from my original $250,000, that would be 0.01% cash back, not 1% cash back, right? Am I missing something stupid? Here are some screenshots from the various pages of my account portal TLDR: Sallie May Barclaycard has at least 1% cash back on all purchases. Last month's statement was $3,700 dollars, but only getting $0.37 redeemable cash back, which is 0.01%. What is going on here? [link] [comments]  |
| 2018 HSA Annual Max Changed - Again! Posted: 27 Apr 2018 06:57 AM PDT For the second time this year, the IRS has made an adjustment to the annual contribution limit to an HSA for families. It is now back to $6,900 (this reverses the March 5, 2018 ruling that reduced the original $6,900 limit for 2018 to $6,850). [link] [comments]  |
| Bank wants auto loan to be "unsecured" to "save paperwork hassles." Red flag? Posted: 27 Apr 2018 06:06 PM PDT My wife and I are shopping for a used car. Yesterday, I applied to a few different places for a loan to buy a used car from a dealer. I received a few email acceptances from different banks. The response from LightStream (division of Sun Trust Bank) had the best rate. Everything looked normal in the email, but at the bottom, in bold, there was this one section that seems odd. Important Reminder: Do NOT have LightStream listed as a lienholder on your vehicle title or loss payee on your insurance policy. If the vehicle seller or your insurance company inquires, just tell them that you did NOT use secured financing. This will save each of us paperwork hassles in the future. Thanks! I didn't even know what a secured vs. unsecured loan was until I googled it*. After reading a bit, I don't understand why they would do this. At a surface level, a secured loan seems less risky for the borrower. I don't see any solid reason why I should care about this. Making it unsecured doesn't seem to harm me at all and technically lowers my risk level (although I obviously have no intention of defaulting on any debt). It just seems weird and possibly shady. Especially since they explicitly say to that they are considering this loan unsecured because it "will save each of us paperwork hassles in the future." What? Am I overreacting? Would you all care? Is there something that I'm missing? To;dr: Bank approved me for an used car loan and explicitly told me to treat it "unsecured" (unlike most auto loans) to save us all some paperwork even though this would seem like a very bad deal for them. What should I do?
EDIT: LightStream offered 3.09% for 36 months. The best offer I got for others was 3.39% for 36 months. EDIT 2: I applied for a loan value of $18k and putting $9k down. I don't know the exact car well but yet, but I don't actually intend to need more than $15k loan value. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 27 Apr 2018 07:38 PM PDT I work as a nursing scheduler. I was recently pulled in by my new manager expecting to be coached or told about a coding error or something of the sort. However, to my surprise, she had a folder ready for me with a document that said 'investigation' on the very top. I'm sure this has to do with some sort of disciplinary action and I'm worried about the repercussions. I was told by her that in order to move on with the discussion that I would need to sign some sort of consent on that very same document or decline until I have a Union Representative with me. I chose to have a Union Representative with me until we meet again. The thing that scares me is that this is obviously not some sort of regular 'coaching' because she hasn't specifically told me what this meeting is actually about. However, I have some clues as to what this might be. Recently my mother passed away due to pancreatic cancer a month ago and my performance and attitude have greatly suffered at work because of it. I've been making small mistakes and my irritability has been showing on my sleeve from time to time and it's coming off as unprofessional. Since then, I have slowly been trying to improve. Nothing drastic at work has been happening to the point where I feel as if it's stopping me from carrying on with my duties. So this is something that I feel would be petty of my new manager to try to nail me with. The other issue that has me really worried though... Is my attendance/clocking in and out for the last month and a half. (I have only called off sick once and had 1 last minute personal call out in the last 4 months that she's been there, so this probably isn't it) I know this is incredibly bad of me but I've shown up late to work 5 or 7 minutes at the most because of traffic or getting a bite to eat at the cafeteria below before showing up to the department I work at. The times that I've shown up late, I've made an edit to cover my ass and wasn't until recently I found out that this is what is considered 'time fraud'. So now I'm sweating fucking bullets because I'm paranoid that this lady will get to the bottom of it in some way, shape or form. This new manager of mine is certainly out for blood because a lot of my co workers are pretty paranoid about this lady as well. I have called my Union Rep to see if I can get him to accompany me for a meeting with this boss lady next week but I'm very new to this kind of drama. What is some advice you guys can give me? Is there anything I should avoid saying or anything I should say? This has me really worried because this is a great job I've had for the last couple of years. Benefits and pay are great and I really need this in order to support myself and my sisters now that my Mother has left us to take care for ourselves. I'm just genuinely spooked and need to recover from this so I can get back to regular wage slaving in peace. Thank you all in advance. [link] [comments]  |
| i have credit card debt thats is over 7 years old, how should i go about this situation? Posted: 27 Apr 2018 02:54 PM PDT once upon a time, i was a dumb teenager that took out a credit card and maxed it out. i want to say it was about $2000 worth. i was doing well paying off at least the minimum every month, but i can't even remember when i stopped paying. i was quite reckless at 18 years old and partied a lot, i don't even remember where i left off. all i can remember is cutting my credit card into pieces and throwing it away so that i wouldn't spend any more. it's now been over 7 years and i moved from my old place about 4 years ago and changed my number at least twice (not because of the debt collectors, just other reasons).. i haven't looked at what i owe since around my last payment 7 years ago. this credit card was taken out from Wells Fargo.. i want to start re building my credit (i had a wake up call when i went to get my wisdom teeth removed and got declined for a credit card payment plan). this has been haunting me for a long time, i don't want to be declined in the future and i want to show good credit for when i decide to live on my own. how do i go about this? do i even need to pay at this point? help! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 27 Apr 2018 08:10 AM PDT Long time lurker here, first post. First, I want to thank this community. My wife and I (35 & 38) have used what you've taught us to get out of debt and save up an emergency fund! We're maxing out our 401Ks. We live in Seattle. We would really like to own a home. Do we try to buy in Seattle? Do we move and buy somewhere else? We have $3600 left over every month after all our other expenses. $65K in savings. More info: No children. Unsure if we want 'em. I work from home. My wife has to go into the office. My mother is about to retire and has only SS income. We'll have to take care of her pretty soon, so our home needs to be big enough for the three of us. We used to live in NYC and are so burnt out on commuting that we refuse to do it ever again. If we buy in Seattle, we'd try to do it within walking/biking distance of downtown. We're looking at ~$700K. We can get a $667K 30 year fixed conforming loan at 4.5% with a 5% down payment & $133/mo PMI. After mortgage + tax + insurance + PMI + maintenance, that's ~$4065/mo, leaving us with ~$1750/mo left over after everything else (we pay $2190/mo rent). We could pay off the house in 15 years, after paying $250K in interest. We could also move to a better housing market where a similar home is closer to $250K, but that would mean my wife would have to leave her job. She makes $80K/yr. I can still work at home and continue making $120K/yr. I'm in tech, so moving away from Seattle to another market is risky: if I lose my job, that means a large pay cut. I'm also building a DevOps skillset that could land me a more lucrative job here. My wife works in a tech-related field as well, and has seen her salary grow from $65K to $80K in just 2 years. The job market here is amazing, but the home prices are bananas. Is it insane for us to spend $700K on a home? We need a sanity check. The Seattle market has completely made us lose touch with what is normal. The home prices are going up so fast that saving up 20% is literally a wash: the $ that we would save on interest & PMI would be entirely canceled out by the growth in price of the home over the time that we save. It's now or never: by the time we have 20%, the home we could afford would be too small for all of us + possible children. On another note, isn't is quite mad that a couple making $200/yr can barely afford to buy in Seattle? I'm just happy that it's even an option of us, though. We're extremely fortunate. So, /r/personalfinance, what do you think? Buy a less expensive house in a weaker economy, or stay here in Seattle and ride the gravy train? [link] [comments]  |
| How do I choose the best investment professional for a million dollars? Posted: 27 Apr 2018 04:34 PM PDT My husband unexpectedly passed away three months ago due to unknown causes. Thankfully, he had a life insurance policy, and it should be settling within the next month or so. The policy is worth a million dollars. I have a good job working from home, and the kids' social security benefits will replace most of my husband's lost income. I don't think I'll need to use most of the life insurance payout, after I pay off my house and car, and finish remodeling the house. My question is: what do I need to look for in a financial advisor? I know I need to look for a fee-only consultant, rather than one based on commission, but that's about all I know. I've heard that Vanguard may be a good place to go, but I'm worried that I won't have any face-to-face meetings; I've also heard that Vanguard's turnover rate can be high, as a lot of employees tend to leave for their own practices. There is a financial planner whose financial group works with my life insurance company, and has been out a couple times and has offered his services. There is also a planner who works with my in laws through Raymond James, and he has offered to work with me as well. I'm not sure what to look for, or what I need. I think most of my insurance payout will go into investments that I won't need to really touch or draw out of, but I'd like to have an option to take out some money if I need to. If anyone could help, I'd sure appreciate it. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 27 Apr 2018 07:46 AM PDT I have health insurance that covers anual check ups, including mundane blood tests- blood panel, lipid profile, etc. Had my annual physical with my in-network doctor. Had blood drawn at the in-network doctor's office, but it was sent without my knowledge to an out of network provider. I got billed $1,000 (for the cheapests blood tests out there), since the lab was out of network. I contested the bill with my insurance, and they accepted it. I got sent a new bill, now owing $300. The bill was waived as "a courtesy" to me. So, it's discounted from $1000 but still out of network; therefore it cannot be counted as preventative care since only in-network providers offer preventative care. Given that my doctor sent out the bloodwork to the out of network lab, again, without asking me, what is there to do? I'm already having a hard time making payments since my premium went up 10x since last year, so I feel a little disheartened at having to pay $300 for no reason. [link] [comments]  |
| Why is it better to start a Roth IRA rather than contribute more to your 401k? Posted: 27 Apr 2018 10:17 AM PDT Hi PF! My title pretty much says it all. I'm wondering why it's better to start a Roth IRA rather than contribute more to your 401k (after you've met the company match). I currently make about 55K a year and contribute 10% to my 401k. My company matches 5%. Would it be advantageous for me to dedicate the additional 5% to a Roth IRA rather than contribute 10% to my 401k? Thanks for the help. [link] [comments]  |
| Universal Life Insurance as a Retirement Account Posted: 27 Apr 2018 02:51 PM PDT Recently, my wife and I got quoted life insurance policies as an aid if either of us were to die suddenly so the survivor would have enough money to pay off the house and any outstanding bills. I am about to turn 24 and my wife is 21. The way we had it quoted was $50/month each for the first 3 years, then an increase to $200/month each until Age 65. For my wife, the death benefit would be $159k and for myself, it would be $104k Assuming we both live to be 66 and the market does 7% over the next 40 odd years, my wife's yearly "loan" amount would be $55k until she turns 100 and my yearly "loan" amount would be $46k. This seems like a good combination of security now as well as money for retirement. Am I missing anything? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 27 Apr 2018 06:33 PM PDT I'm sure this has been asked several times before: Does anyone have some good information or links to good information about companies that consolidate student loans? I get calls and mail about it but it always seems like a scam to me. [link] [comments]  |
| 1stFinancialBank USA is going to charge $25-$55 annualy on their credit cards starting 7/3/18 Posted: 27 Apr 2018 01:55 PM PDT This my oldest and highest credit limit card; suuuuucks! It's going to be a hit to my credit score when the history range shrinks and my total available credit drops. [link] [comments]  |
| Just inherited roughly $250,000, but it wasn’t supposed to be mine. What to do? Posted: 27 Apr 2018 08:36 PM PDT I'm 16 years old and just inherited a quarter of a million after my mother passed away. Now this money was supposed to go to my father but as they are divorced, my father can't receive that money. Let me just say they were both happy with the money going to my father and he was going to pay off his mortgage with it. After both my father and brother did legal stuff (I don't know what it was because I was never told) the money was to be split between me and my brother. Somehow the people they were trying to convince to give the money to my father ended up giving me 85% and my brother 15%, which he doesn't enjoy at all. Also since I'm still a minor in my country I cant access the money until I'm 18 so for now it's floating around in a (trust fund?) account somewhere. So what I'm wondering is what to do with all of this. I'm in Sydney so invest in property? Leaving it in the bank would only be 5% interest or something. Spending it on a wicked sick car would be idiotic. Giving it all back to my father who was originally going to get it would be selfless but I really don't know how much of a big deal that is. I just don't know what to do. Thanks for the time [link] [comments]  |
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