- Heads up: Fannie Mae will now be buying and accepting loans made with one credit report frozen. If you are worried about your credit info being breached but didn’t freeze all three agencies, do that now.
- Pot farmer getting out of the game with 200k cash and little skill sets. What's next?
- [Retirement] Survived a violent 30 year marriage and am starting over at 52. I want to be financially stable and need guidance
- I am 21, completely dependent on parents, and have 0 credit. What can I do to prepare to be financially independent?
- Should I pay the interest on my student loans while under the Public Service Forgiveness Loan? My current qualifying payment is $0/month
- I'm supposed to inherit a hoarder's property. What's the best course of action?
- Where did my debt go??
- Is my bad credit going to prevent me from getting an apartment?
- Someone ran a red light and totaled my car, what should I know in dealing with their insurance?
- Car dealership is making a huge mess.
- I thought I was smarter than this, but obviously not. Paid a scammer $1000.
- I did it... I left my abusive relationship. But now I'm left to figure everything out on my own. I'm getting discouraged.
- I'm a dumb college kid that started to drive for Uber and hasn't saved for taxes...
- Did I mess up with my inheritance?
- Sports writer, offered a job in Montana. Afraid $15 an hour just won't cut it
- Question: I'm looking for ideas on how to casually earn 20$/day (online or off). Any suggestions?
- Mother can't afford her health insurance plan's out of pocket maxmimum, reaches it annually.
- Approved For Auto Loan But Denied the Vehicle I Want
- Friend awarded 10+ years of back pay
- Around a year away from purchasing a home, how am I looking?
- Ways to improving the chance of getting an apartment.
- Got a job offer, but was low-balled. Complained about it and now got invited for a second interview. Help? (not-US)
- What do my wife and I do with our money?
| Posted: 06 Dec 2017 06:33 AM PST Why this is important: With the recent Equifax breach, plenty of people have put freezes on their credit reports (for good reason). But if you only froze one, someone can now still take out a loan on your name if they have the rest of your info. What changed: Until recently, Fannie Mae required all three credit reports to actually report for them to buy a loan from a bank. The change now allows for your report to be frozen with one credit reporting agency, but the other two must be unfrozen. Why this matters: Your local bank might sell the mortgages they originate to Fannie Mae. Many small and even moderately sized banks have investors they sell mortgages to. Fannie Mae is one of the largest investors here. The loan must be originated and underwritten to Fannie Mae's standards for them to purchase it. This means that Fannie Mae's guidelines impact your local banks' guidelines if they sell to them. This change means that other banks will now be allowing this same thing. So if you're worried about your credit but didn't freeze it with all three agencies, do that now. Edit: source—I'm a technical writer at a bank and am rewriting our internal procedures on what we accept based on the above as I type this. Edit 2: I'm not suggesting Fannie Mae originates loans. The thing is that their decisions as an investor will impact how banks do business. Fannie Mae says they'll take loans that are riskier? Banks that sell to Fannie Mae will start originating those riskier loans because they know they can sell them. This is about Fannie Mae (being a large investor) saying they'll take loans with one frozen score, so some banks will start accepting that too and not require that it be unfrozen. All I was saying was, if you were concerned but thought freezing one or two was good enough, that's not necessarily the case. [link] [comments]  |
| Pot farmer getting out of the game with 200k cash and little skill sets. What's next? Posted: 06 Dec 2017 04:10 PM PST I have been growing weed in northern California for almost a decade and have decided to get out for many reason, mostly because all the people that work inside the industry are either idiots, douche bags or both. Thankfully I have do ok inside the business and have been able to takeaway about 200k in both cash and soon to be liquid home equity. My question is what would be the best job to train for to maintain a cashflow. I can dedicate myself full time to any training whether it be at home or in school. I have two Associate Degrees in Science and Liberal Arts, and I have been teaching myself Python but only for fun. I honestly don't know what the best next step would be. I have been working secluded in a black market for for years and am unaware of what the career landscape is in these modern times. For example, I'm pretty sure truck driving would be a bad choice. If any of you have advice that would be much appreciated. Also I would be happy to answer any weed industry questions if you are curious. update; Sorry if I seem negative or combative in some of my responses to your suggestions. It is only because I was not specific as to what I wanted in my next career. I truly appreciated all your advice. Knowing what I don't want will help me find what I do, aka every comment helps. Thanks again everyone. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 06 Dec 2017 02:07 PM PST I will include details about my situation below but my main questions are pretty simple. All I ask is that you kindly stay objective of what is possible for me in my current situation. I'm 52, a US resident (applying for citizenship next year), and working only part time to my dismay (I live in Florida and finding work here has been rough) I make about $12/hour and I work 30-35 hours per week and have only worked 'legally' for the past 4 years but have filed and paid taxes each year since we arrived to the US so I will be eligible for government aid IF I become a citizen. I am looking to get a second job. On average I have about $70 per month that I am able to part with. I hope to increase that. What can I do, short of winning the lottery, to prepare for retirement? I'll be the first to admit I can't physically juggle three jobs and my spoken english is not great, I have only a GED, and plenty of experience in hospitality. Do you have any resources on low-income retirement preparedness? Background: To make a long story short... I am from Venezuela and I came to the US when I was 22 to start a manufacturing business with my then husband. Things were amazing until they weren't. Within two years he blew all his money on failed projects, women, weed, and a lifestyle he could not afford. I became pregnant with my first daughter and was homeless, unable to return to my home country before my visa expired and got stuck here in the US... undocumented. He eventually apologized and got it together (for a time). We got back together and we've had this cycle on repeat for 25 years. We have two amazing daughters (27 and 25) who have both graduated from great universities and work in computer engineering and programming. My daughters have been graciously helping me as I finally was able to leave my abusive husband safely. I'll never be able to repay them but I hope I can one day. Now I am finally free of him AND I'm a resident on my way to becoming a citizen. I don't know how my credit is... I am afraid to check. He bought a house in my name years ago 20 years ago, which was actually really great for a long time until I found out he had opened credit cards in my name and we had to file for bankruptcy. Anyways I know my life is a mess so keep the victim blaming to a minimum if you can help it. It's only been 6 months since he violently kicked me out of my own house... so I'm still very raw emotionally thank you thank you thank you EDIT: I work at a large supermarket and I DO have a small retirement 401k balance with 3% matching. I am paying for healthcare out of pocket, have a car that belongs to my husband (using it on borrowed time, I know), a rent of $800/month, and a dog who keeps me safe. Leaning on my daughters is not an option. I want them to continue living their lives comfortably. They've paid enough for my mistakes. Thank you again. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 06 Dec 2017 05:56 PM PST I'm a real blank slate here, so I'm not sure what I need to know. I have no idea what credit is or why I need it. I'm about to get my first credit card, and it's gotten me thinking on how uneducated I am on finance. Any advice you can give me would be extremely helpful. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 06 Dec 2017 05:26 AM PST Public school teacher with 111 qualifying payments left before I'm eligible for the PSFL. The demographics of my school make me ineligible for the 5 year teacher forgiveness loan. I currently have 52k in student loans at 7.5% interest. Because of my teacher salary, my current qualifying payment is $0. This does nothing for the interest. In the past, I've paid around $300 to pay off the interest each month and keep my loan from growing. I like teaching. I can see myself teaching for definitely more than 8 more years. If I paid $0 for as long as possible, and let my loan grow, the amount would be paid off after 120 qualifying payments. Should I continue to pay the minimum required payment, even if it's $0, and watch my loan grow until it is forgiven? Or, do I continue to just pay the interest and keep my loan where it is until it is forgiven? My fear is I wake up in 7 years, no longer qualify for PSFL, and watch my loans grow to an even higher amount. I'm sorry if this is a dumb question and the answer is obvious, it's an honest one. Contextual info: -single father to a toddler. Really want to send him to private school and currently only have $1k set aside for that. Because of this, I never eat out, our entertainment is free stuff (playgrounds, parks, libraries) -My mortgage is 15% of my gross pay each month. -His preschool costs me around $800/mo. There's no way around this, I'm on my own with no family to watch him during the day. I'm sure private daycare could be cheaper, but I really want him around other kids for the social aspect. -No car payment -Around $500 debt on a $10,000 credit card that I pay off monthly. -Max contributions to my 457 and my school matches 2.5% if I contribute 4 to their retirement plan. -I receive VA disability compensation at the 90% rate, which funds my EF every month to a separate bank account that I don't regularly think about, outside of an emergency. -10% of my income goes to my Vanguard Roth IRA each month -5% of my income goes to crypto each month [link] [comments]  |
| I'm supposed to inherit a hoarder's property. What's the best course of action? Posted: 06 Dec 2017 11:29 AM PST I'm supposed to inherit a piece of property someday. I have two options: I could simply sell the property as-is for $50,000-$100,000. OR I could plunk some trailers on it, rent them out, and generate cash flow. This is my ideal option except many factors stand in my way. First, I'm disabled. I survive on a measly $800/mo and I'm not allowed to have more than $2,000 at any one time or my disability will be terminated. Second, the property belongs to a hoarder. There are several buildings including a house, barn, and garage that are full of crap and structurally unsound. They all need to be torn down and hauled away, plus several giant unsafe trees need to be cut down. That alone is going to cost me a small fortune, plus buying all the trailers and stuff is going to cost another fortune. I have no credit. No bank is going to loan me money to do any of this anyway, at least not that I know of. Anyone know the best course of action? I really really would like to generate cash flow someday and make my own money instead of being on disability. Thank you. EDIT: Google-fu tells me that the inheritance won't affect my SSDI. So I guess what I'm really asking is: Would it be worth it (or possible) to try and renovate the property for renting, or would it be more wise to just sell it? Because again, it's going to be very expensive to clear all the junk out and demolish everything. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 06 Dec 2017 05:55 PM PST I don't know where else to go, and Reddit has served me well in the past so here it goes… When I left the military, I ended up leaving quite a bit of debt behind. I contacted a bankruptcy lawyer, but because I was starting my life in another country, he suggested that I make whatever payments I could if possible, but otherwise just let it go. I will not be moving back to the states, and I was told the debt would disappear in about 7 years anyway, so paying for bankruptcy was pointless… I took the advice and was making payments, but unfortunately fell on some really hard times and stopped making payments all together so I could maintain my family's life. I am now finally getting into a job where I am making good money, and I want to fix the mess I created… But other than the student loans, I can't find the debt… I logged into my old bank account, (also had a loan from them) and my accounts all show $0.00… I know the debt isn't gone… but my question is, where did it go? How do I get on a track to fix this? And what is the best method to fix it? Highest interest first? Lowest amount first? Highest payment first? Any advice appreciated. I don't know if it matters, currently in Japan. So walking down to my local finance center type deal, isn't really an option... [link] [comments]  |
| Is my bad credit going to prevent me from getting an apartment? Posted: 06 Dec 2017 03:46 PM PST I'm 21 and I work 2 jobs. One is 40 hours a week at a high end car dealer and I just got a promotion. The other is a part time buss boy position for extra money. I'm trying to move out and move closer to work/different area but I have an awful credit score. I have 1 credit card (no balance anymore), a $15k car loan (just sold it to my dad), and I deferred my student loans like 5 months in a row (I know I messed up bad). My credit score is 499 I'm just looking for a studio or 1 bed room apartment around Boston. I have over $5000 saved for a deposit or whatever else is needed, and I can prove to them of my employment, but every apartment I see on Zillow or other websites lists "excellent credit required" or "mandatory credit check." Should I even bother trying to go see these places because once they do a credit check I'm clearly not going to be picked. Is there even a point? [link] [comments]  |
| Someone ran a red light and totaled my car, what should I know in dealing with their insurance? Posted: 06 Dec 2017 05:38 PM PST This is my first accident. Another driver ran a red light and totaled my car. Thankfully everyone was fine. I made the mistake of not directly getting the other party's insurance because the police assured me it would all be in the report. I don't doubt that it will and I have their license plate just in case, but after reporting the accident to my insurance, my insurance wants to know if I want to be covered through them. I assume that I should absolutely not take coverage through my insurance as I was not at fault for the accident, but I have not given them a direct answer yet as I am honestly not even 100% sure the other party has insurance (very stupid of me, I know) and the police report takes 3-5 days to process. Whoever I end up filing through, what should I know about approaching the insurance companies? Namely, the car is relatively new and I purchased it slightly used outright about 5 months ago, so I don't want to get short-changed on the value of the vehicle. There was also a car-seat that will need replacing. Am I entitled to any other sort of settlement to cover rental, inconvenience fees, closing costs on a new vehicle, etc? Thanks for the help and please feel free to point out anything else I'm missing! Edit: Clarifying details [link] [comments]  |
| Car dealership is making a huge mess. Posted: 06 Dec 2017 06:25 PM PST Hello, all. I'm having a problem with the the car dealership I recently purchased a vehicle from. My old car was totaled about 3 weeks ago, and a used dealership about 1.5 hours away was recommended to me by someone. I checked out their prices and was happy with them, so I decided to check them out. I had some issues with picking the car up. (They told me my wife didn't have to be there. I had a friend drive me all the way there just so they could say "oops. She actually DOES have be here for paperwork) Two 3 hour trips later I ended up purchasing (financing through a credit union) a 2014 Honda CR-V with 44000 miles. The car was in great shape except for a little hesitation shifting in low gears. A trip to my local Honda dealer took care of that with a software update and everything was looking fine. Today I got a call from the dealership saying they GAVE ME THE WRONG CAR. They apparently had two dark grey 2014 CR-Vs. each with similar mileage, in their lot. (About 1000 miles difference). I have been driving a car that's not mine and not on my insurance policy for 3 weeks. The dealership is giving me two options. I either have the paperwork switched over to the car I'm currently driving. (I think I would prefer this. We've already invested time and money into it.) Or we physically switch the cars. Which of these options sounds like the better one? If we need to switch cars physically, I am going to insist that they drive to me instead of me driving to them. It was their mistake, so they can fix it. I'm also reaching out to the credit union to make sure everything is on the up and up. I just wanted whatever advice you folks can give. (And to vent a little if I'm being honest.) [link] [comments]  |
| I thought I was smarter than this, but obviously not. Paid a scammer $1000. Posted: 06 Dec 2017 05:32 PM PST Is there any way I can get my money back? November 7, my brother(who lives two states away) contacted me to say someone was trying to get in touch with me to summon papers. They called him at work. I don't even know how they got his name or number. I called her back and she said she was a lawyer and they were going to get a judgement against me for close to $5,000. She had my name, SS#, birthdate, the address I was living at when I supposedly opened this credit card account. Said I opened it in 2005 and paid til 2008. I was horrible with money back then so I thought there's a good chance I really did owe from this card but never for that high of an amount. I asked about SOL and she said 10 years from last payment. Cursory glance at the state I was living in does show 10 years but now looking closer I see cc debt is 3 years. So I agreed to pay her $1500 to get it settled. $1000 nov 7, $250 dec 7 and $250 Jan 7. She emailed me with a contract showing a lawyers office heading and e-sign and I signed. Paid $1000 with my debit card. Got a reminder email tonight from Harbourside Financial and looked them up. It's a total scam from the way they handle things. Is there anything I can do now? I don't want them calling my brother and harassing him and I want my money back if it's possible. If they are legit, I'm more than happy to settle this. They have my debit card but my number was stolen last week so that cards been canceled. They don't have my new number. Any advice? Oh and I checked all three credit reports, there's nothing on there at all, good or bad. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 06 Dec 2017 01:50 PM PST I got the courage to leave my horrible 8 year relationship. He was controlling. I haven't had a social life, I never got my license, never had a job. Absolutely nothing. I'm basically starting from scratch and I'm scared to death. The fear makes me want to go back, but I know I just have to do it. I have to be uncomfortable. How do I get started? Please, I need help :( I live with my dad rn and he's amazing, but he's too busy to help me go to work. I don't have friends. So nobody to ask. I don't know what to do. I feel stuck :( [link] [comments]  |
| I'm a dumb college kid that started to drive for Uber and hasn't saved for taxes... Posted: 06 Dec 2017 07:06 PM PST I live in California. I'm in college. Live with my Dad. I started to drive for Uber to make some money. It's my only income right now. I've been driving for about six months and I've made probably $3,000. On top of that, I made an extra $2,000 umpiring HS baseball at the beginning of the year. I haven't saved anything for taxes because I thought you only got taxed if you made above $10,000 or so. I've never had to pay taxes on baseball before, and Googling minimum income for Federal taxes yields results that say around that number. But someone recently told me I'd have to pay 15% tax on all Uber income. At this point that's close to $500 even if I didn't earn anymore before the start of the year. I'm screwed, because any more Ubering I do to earn that money will incur more taxes. Can anyone offer a solution or maybe say a prayer? [link] [comments]  |
| Did I mess up with my inheritance? Posted: 06 Dec 2017 05:44 PM PST Though I'm not actually new to reddit, I very rarely post, so take it easy on me in the comments. My father passed away one year ago today, and I'm wondering if I did the right thing with investing the money for my mother. I'm 38 years old and an only child, and my main concern is making sure my mom can live off the money for the rest of her life. I'm a server at a high end restaurant. I make about $30k a year. My mom works at a factory and makes about $40k a year. She is 66 years old. My father was in the army so my mother is currently drawing a DIC ($1300) check from the army (he had a major injury actually on the military base 30 years ago that left him paralyzed from the waist down). We were left about ~$1.5 million, and I'm the executor of the estate. As soon as I received the money, I started meetings with advisors. After 44235432366 meetings, and having multiple people lie to me, I went with a $300k annuity, deferring payments and $900k in bonds for my mom. I simply used $300k in bonds for me. Now, here's the rub(s). Mom's bills aren't that crazy. The DIC check takes care of most of it per month. However, I just received paperwork from my advisor. My mom's paperwork is en route to me. My paperwork says my current account is $297k. How is that possible with bonds? He explained to me that his cut virtually comes off the top when he buys bonds. Where did this money go? I can't make sense of it at all. Can anyone explain what is going on when there are ZERO fees being paid directly to him by me? Next, did I fuck up by going bonds and annuity? Bonds are laddered between 6 month and 5 years and roughly average 3%. Annuity is 5% per year locked. I'm sure I left vital information out, but any help would be appreciated. Also, feel free to ask questions that would help give info on the situation. Edit #1: Does anyone know about SBP checks from the army or them attempting to keep you from receiving that money? Edit #2: She's currently able to draw my father's social security she retires. It's around $1100 per month. To my understanding, this stops when she retires and she'll draw around $1200 from her social security and a small monthly check from another factory for $200. Bonus, since I forgot. Once she retires from her current factory, she'll also draw a check from there for around $250 a month. [link] [comments]  |
| Sports writer, offered a job in Montana. Afraid $15 an hour just won't cut it Posted: 06 Dec 2017 06:24 PM PST I have had my eyes on making a move just about anywhere in the country, but as an outdoorsman I've long had my eye on Montana. I currently work for a newspaper company in upstate NY that is in bad shape, with layoffs always eminent. I do not get to do the type of work I'm interested in here, but the pay is slightly better ($16.41). My concern is that I might not be financially secure if I take this job. It's important to note I currently live with my girlfriend. She's a nurse (yeah, pretty damn financially straight). We currently split most things. She would not move with me, instead opting to travel nurse. I'm 25 and currently have about 5k in my bank account. I have student loans that I'm paying high on (300 a month) that I'm sure I can bring down. I have a medical payment of 255 a month for the next 5 months. I own my car outright, so no car payment. My question is: Would I be making a terribly irresponsible decision to leave this relative security for a job across the country that pays $15 an hour? I do genuinely appreciate any thoughts here, I'm on mobile so I tried to keep this brief. Happy to provide any additional background if it helps. Edit: Job is in Butte, MT. Moving from outside Ithaca, NY. [link] [comments]  |
| Question: I'm looking for ideas on how to casually earn 20$/day (online or off). Any suggestions? Posted: 06 Dec 2017 09:50 AM PST I'm looking for ways to supplement my income by about 10-20$ a day. I'm not looking for a traditional, part-time job since I already have a job that pays a decent wage. Couple rules:
I'm in Canada, but it doesn't really matter. [link] [comments]  |
| Mother can't afford her health insurance plan's out of pocket maxmimum, reaches it annually. Posted: 06 Dec 2017 12:35 PM PST Hello, My mother has Crohn's disease and the infusion treatment she is on costs something like $9,000 (~$5 medicine, ~$8995 administration) per visit (8 or so visits per year). Her out of pocket maximum is $5,500, so she hits it after the first treatment of the year--if other medical expenses have not already caused that to happen. This means that she has medical bills piling up year after year. She gets put on a payment plan for two years, but as they stack up, they will become unmanageable as she makes about $37k/year. $37k is not a lot when she's single with a mortgage, but it is enough that it makes her ineligible for financial assistance with her medical bills. I am going to be able to cover her bills for her this year, but I worry that in the future I will not be able to afford it as my own expenses grow. She is considering going off the treatment, but I am hoping to avoid that if possible as her doctor thinks it is best. She was sending them $25/month just to try to be in a paying status, but they recently sent her a legal notice saying they could garnish her wages or put a lien on her house. Garnished wages would probably financially sink her, and a lien wouldn't be good either. We have tried to negotiate the bill with the hospital, but they will accept nothing less than he full price of the bill. If anyone has been in a situation like this before and has any advice, I would appreciate your advice. [link] [comments]  |
| Approved For Auto Loan But Denied the Vehicle I Want Posted: 06 Dec 2017 07:20 PM PST I have the opportunity to buy a truck that is in mint condition from a private dealer (coworker of my father). He is offering to sell it to me for a damn good price at 5k. The truck is 4 door and luxury all bells and whistles; 100k miles but is also a 2005.. I applied for a car loan (wells fargo) and was approved conditionally. Got a call later and was told they will not approve the truck because it isnt 2010 or newer and under 100k miles. They said I can apply for a personal loan but I imagine the interest rates would be even higher and I do not want to keep applying around because I am aware that can look bad on my credit. What are my options here? I want to take advantage of this offer. Thanks for any advice credit score 710 full time 15/hr [link] [comments]  |
| Friend awarded 10+ years of back pay Posted: 06 Dec 2017 07:03 PM PST My friend was awarded an extraordinary amount of money (~$500,000) from his company through an arbitration process. Without going into too much detail, the figure was calculated from how much potential income he should have been making. Regarding taxes, obviously an entire lump sum of this amount would be at a higher tax bracket, but the intent was to award him the money he lost out on for years, of which less taxes would have been taken out in comparison. I am certain he will still be celebrating regardless of the amount of taxes he pays, but is there a way he can only pay the amount at the lower tax bracket he would've been at had he earned this amount over the span of more than a decade? [link] [comments]  |
| Around a year away from purchasing a home, how am I looking? Posted: 06 Dec 2017 07:00 PM PST My current living situation in which I only pay for utilities is coming to an end around May 2019. I have lived in this area my whole life (Oklahoma City) and don't mind anchoring down with a house of my own. Job situation seems to be pretty stable as well. My paychecks are currently $1900 (26/year), and should be increasing by about $50 next march (annual standard 3% raise). That is with 8% taken out for 401k to get full employer match. My average expenses are around $1500 a month. This is based on a budget that I have spent the past 3 years tweaking to get a pretty decent feel for spending habits. The budget leans towards the "this is what my budget is like with excessive spending / things not accounted for". The past year it has been pretty spot on ignoring some emergency expenses that came up. Currently I am sitting at 38k in savings for down payment and emergency fund. According to my budget I "should" be looking at around 70k saved at the start of 2019. Looking at a max budget of 250k for a house. According to an estimate given to me by a local bank, with 10% down at 30 year / 4.125% rate I am looking at a payment of $1630.04. $56.25 of which is mortgage insurance, and $283.33 of which is estimated insurance/tax. The principal and interest payment being $1090.46. Increasing the down payment to 20% gives me a payment of ~$969 or ~$1452 with the insurance/tax, and no mortgage insurance. Obviously I would like to do the 20%, but that would leave me with ~20k for closing and prepaid items / emergency fund / house things that are going to come up / getting furniture etc. I do not feel comfortable with that at all. I wont be having much furniture or stuff to take care of a house in general once the move happens, so cost to get everything is going to be quite a bit. Of course with 10% down there is more to handle things, but that gives me ~$5000 over 7 years I am paying in mortgage insurance before it drops (if just paying standard payments). I am not sure how good my numbers are. Realistically what should I be looking at for the price of a home? How much should I have on hand for after purchase setup funds? Emergency fund? 20% down is great and all, but is going less ok in some situations? Any other insights? [link] [comments]  |
| Ways to improving the chance of getting an apartment. Posted: 06 Dec 2017 06:54 PM PST Here's the deal. I'm trying to score an apartment asap. Below I will describe things I've been doing to help, but I need to know if there is more I can do to increase the chance of being accepted.
I try and be very nice and professional as possible. I'm honest and straight forward. I think I am doing everything I can, but is there any tricks on improving the odds of being accepted? Thank you. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 06 Dec 2017 12:18 PM PST Hello, for almost two years I have been working as an engineer at a sub-contractor company to a big multinational company. Some months ago, they required someone to do the same job as the one I was doing, but in the "main" company. After some looking around, they decided to give me a try (I wanted to go as well). I would prefer not to disclose where this is happening, but let's say in Asia. The main hindrance for them to take me right away was if I could speak the local language well enough. I got an opportunity to do a period of test work while still employed in my original company but loaned to the „main "one. Now after a few months they are happy with me, both with how I work and with my language, and have told me they want me to stay. I agreed that I also want to, and they said ok, the HR will make a proposal contract. We discussed no terms then. I should point out that at the internal job ad there was stated the salary range, additionally to the list of requirement (education and experience etc.). Let's say it was 4600 – 5100 $. They called me to a discussion about the contract and the terms, only the HR person was there with me. At the beginning, the HR person told me they have received my entire CV (what I did for two years at the sub-contractor and my education). We went over the terms, all was OK. But the salary offered was the lowest one stated at the job ad (4600$), so for a person straight out of college. I pointed this out, and the HR person said "yeah but we can't acknowledge your experience from the past company". I asked why, they said but you didn't do the same job, you worked in another department. I said this isn't right, I did the exact same job in the exact same department and that's why I think my experience qualifies. And also I am already doing 95% of the work alone, since I do know what I am doing. Then the person was, „ah, ok. I guess I didn't go over your details well enough". Then they offered to include in the contract a passage which stated that if my work continued to go well for the next 4-5 months, I would get a raise (about 150$ more). Then they remarked that they weren't familiar with my university and googled it, but they found that it was really a university, not a collage or similar. I said ok, but still I do not want to start from the level as if I had no experience and have just come from collage, I was hoping to get more. The person said „Ok I understand you; it's good we talked since now I know you did the exact same job as you are doing here. I will calculate something else out." This was the end and they said they will call me as soon as possible since they don't want to drag it out. Also they remarked that my future boss said that my salary should be fitted according to the rest of the department, so I shouldn't be making as much as one person who is there five years. Now I was thinking a few things for the next interview, but don't know how it could look to the HR. I was thinking to go to the next interview with the printed job ad and the salary stated there, along with the certificate that my University is accepted as good in their country. I would also take the job description from my previous work. After I receive the new offer (I am hoping to get 200$ more starting), I would point out that I meet all the requirements in the job ad, and that that could mean that I should get the upper amount stated in the job ad. It would be ok if we did it like they suggested, with an passage that stated I would get a raise after 4-5 months if everything was further OK with my work (this I would also suggest to be 200$, which with the 200$ before would put me 100$ short of the max amount from the ad). If they refuse any of this (i.e. the extra passage) I would ask "ok, then please tell me who could get the largest amount stated in the job ad?" I know this is a wall of text, but I am not experienced with this and would like to get as much as possible now, since all further raises will be based on this starting ammount. Also I should point out that they tried to first find people from the main company and people from that country, but nobody wanted to do the work. Any advice would be super helpful. Thank you a bunch in advance! [link] [comments]  |
| What do my wife and I do with our money? Posted: 06 Dec 2017 01:27 PM PST I'll say it - I know nothing about money and seem to have a decent amount (relatively speaking). I have an account (with a balance of about $50,000) with investment brokers at Wells Fargo and my wife has a similar account (also with about $50,000) at Waddell & Reed. These accounts were set up when we were younger by our respective parents and each year, everything we saved just kept getting thrown into those accounts. For birthdays, we'd get stock certificates or various deposit amounts, thus making the accounts grow to what they are now. I was always grateful but never really understood where the money was going or what it really meant. The accounts were always meant to be used for college, wedding, House, etc. Now, I'm 27, she's 26, we're both out of college, recently married, and we don't know what to do with our respective accounts (or even really what they are). I feel guilty even writing this because I should've learned what this money is a long time ago. The truth is, I never needed the money because I always worked and built up my own savings account, got scholarships and whatnot which paid for school, etc. Needless to say, I'm extremely lucky, as is my wife, that we have these accounts. Our only present financial goals are 1) to be able to afford a house within the next 5-7 years, by which point we will presumably have a child (and likely additional financial goals) and 2) to save for retirement (although I have a 401k so I'm less concerned about using the money for that). Our questions now are as follows:
Thanks in advance for the help and if I need to clarify anything let me know! [link] [comments]  |
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