Personal Finance Worth paying extra towards mortgage principal for a "transition" house |
- Worth paying extra towards mortgage principal for a "transition" house
- How do I get rid of this nagging feeling of insecurity?
- Charter/Spectrum sent me to collections, I never received a notice from them of a balance that was owed.
- Bad Parents, Bad Health, Bad Job, Bad Graduation Timing: Any advice for my next step?
- Cannot get a student loan for college, may get kicked out at semester's end
- Should I buy a home or wait?
- When would you want to avoid capital gains?
- My parents want to buy a house in my name. What are the consequences if I go along with this plan? The house would be in my name and my dad's name.
- Car dealership called about getting a better rate after already financing the car
- Explain it like I'm five...Help with taking Social Security.
- Australian debt sold to American company. How worried should I be?
- Does having two brokerages make tax season more complicated
- At what point is it not worth it to repair an old car?
- I Received a Bonus Incorrectly
- I think my only option is Chapter 7/bankruptcy?
- Pay for school out of pocket, or use my experience to try and find a better job.
- Financial advice on job options and cost of living comparisons
- I m good at saving but once I start spending. I would be spending so much. How do I control myself ?
- Should I keep my Verizon roadside assistance or cancel it?
- Max out 401k or Roth IRA?
- Mother passed away, found out that my Parents have significant debt, need tips on how to help my dad manage his specific situation.
- Bank refusing to close my account or tell me why they won't do it.
- Any good investing books?
| Worth paying extra towards mortgage principal for a "transition" house Posted: 14 Oct 2020 06:30 PM PDT Is it worth paying extra towards the principal amount to reduce how long it takes to fully pay off the house if we plan to move before the house is fully paid off? It's a conventional 30-year loan at 2.75% interest. I do not foresee us staying the full 30 years in the home so it does not make sense to me to increase my equity in a home that I will sell before the mortgage is fully paid. Does it make sense instead to put that money towards investments that would get higher returns? [link] [comments]  |
| How do I get rid of this nagging feeling of insecurity? Posted: 14 Oct 2020 09:45 AM PDT Hi r/PersonalFinance. I'm a 33 year old guy that constantly feels like the rug is going to be pulled out from under me at any moment. I set up my security net like you guys suggested and I've saved more money than I've ever had. I don't have Credit Card or car related debt. I have a mortgage that I pay monthly and some student loans on ICR. My credit score is good at 760. I feel like I'm doing everything right but I can't shake the feeling that one misstep will cause everything to disappear. I don't make a lot of money but I'm pretty frugal with what I do get. I'm scared to go to the doctor, drive my car or take a vacation for fear an avalanche of debt is waiting to take me out. How do you guys shake this feeling that all your money will evaporate in an instant? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 14 Oct 2020 05:35 PM PDT Happened in Georgia - Had charter spectrum internet in a rural college town and ended my contract with them paying my last bill on 8/9/18 and closing my account. My account balance has $0 when I look it up online. I receive a FICO credit score hit of 72 points, I click on it and it says I have an account that was sent to collections. I keep up with all my bills, so I thought there was some sort of mistake. Reached out to the collection agency to see what happened and they notified me that charter has sent me to collections for failure to return equipment. I told them that I am able to take care of the balance, no problem but that I never received a notice from them or Charter with this statement. They opened up a dispute, and that is still pending but they said to take it up with Charter. I called Charter billing and spoke with a rep that said that they emailed me the day after I closed my account with them which would've been 8/10/2018. I reviewed my email, which coincidentally has my final invoice/receipt showing paid and the account is at $0.00 (from 8/9/2018), among several other old receipts from paid statements leading up to my final one. But no notice of a statement, or unpaid balance on account, nothing. They said they sent a follow up email as well, searched for that and couldn't find it either. The rep then said they've sent written notices to my parents home for the past two years, every month on the 9th. I reached out to my father who collects all my mail and gives it to me every few months I have seen him. He says he's never thrown away mail of mine and that he didn't receive any notices from Spectrum. I confirmed the mailing address and email address with the rep and they are both correct. Rep said that they never called me with a notice. I told the Spectrum rep that I would like to dispute the aspect that I wasn't given a written/called notice. He said okay and that typically that just entails them sending out "another statement" to the address on file. It didn't actually sound like there is any resolution, or that it will do anything or matter. I am wondering if I have a recourse against Spectrum with this, cause if I had gotten a written notice from them I would've taken care of it. I have no problem paying the statement, that's not my issue. My issue is that now my credit will be affected years due to me simply not being adequately or professionally notified of this. Is there anything I can do to fix this without my credit getting messed up for years to come? Thanks. [link] [comments]  |
| Bad Parents, Bad Health, Bad Job, Bad Graduation Timing: Any advice for my next step? Posted: 14 Oct 2020 06:25 PM PDT I cut this all down a lot, but I feel like I need to explain as much as possible to get the full understanding of my situation out there for proper advice. I need advice on what I can do next before I get into a situation where I have debt collectors calling. This all started when my parents pulled out a credit card in my name for vacations, they got it to $19,000 in debt, and I found out when they declared bankruptcy. At the time I was young and ignorant, I also couldn't afford to live on my own and was trying to get through school. So, I made my parents pay it off. They've treated me like I've ruined their lives ever since. Any savings I had went towards paying off my car, that was in my parents name, so it wouldn't be taken by collections. By the time the credit card debt was paid off, I had a bit better job and financial situation, so I moved out with a large personal debt of my own due to a major surgery related to endometriosis. Otherwise, student loan debt was on pause because I was still in school. I had paid for the surgery with a credit card because I was unaware of payment plans through hospital. I thought by the time I finished school, that debt would be gone. I just needed to get away from my parents. The home was starting to get too hostile and I think the only reason they didn't kick me out was because they were as dependent on me as I was with them. Unfortunately, after moving out, I immediately got sick. Initially the illness appeared as facial drooping on the right side, so doctors thought I was having a stroke. No, my parents offered no help. After not suffering any other stroke symptoms, it was established I had Bell's Palsy. I was treated for a unknown virus, my face straightened out, but began to twitch and I continued to suffer painful symptoms around the right side of my head. Over the course of 8 months, I had 2 MRIs, a chest scan because of upper back pain, a least a dozen blood tests, and I was I even sent to a cancer center just in case. Then eventually a doctor noticed there was a rash on the back of my neck where I couldn't even see it and I was diagnosed with Shingles. It was all under my thick hair of the right side of my head and doctors kept telling me normally people lose their hair. I'm still dealing with the side effects in addition to my endometriosis issues (I even got a stomach ulcer from heavy pain med use) as well as mental health issues. I still did not know about payment plans at that time, so I put everything on my credit. My total card debt from all this, ironically, got up to $19,000 early last year. When I moved away from my parents, I had cut back majorly on spending and created a budget spreadsheet. I went to a pay as you go phone, I have only used broadcast television, I cut back on food costs and lost weight thanks to not eating so much fast food, I only buy cloths if it's absolutely necessary (mostly work related), I don't use makeup anymore, I only get a basic trim when my hair gets too long, I even stopped shaving my legs and armpits, and I got the debt down to $15,000 this year. I finished college in April of this year, I have been applying to jobs ever since, and I have been unable to get a single interview within the company I work for or anywhere else. My tax refund, stimulus check, and hero's bonus from work went into paying the debt down. Then my 17-year-old car broke down. The amount I had to spend to fix it was probably more than the car is actually worth and it brought my debt back up and to just over $16,000. There is only 78,000 miles on the car because I almost, only ever use it for going to and from work. It's a very good car for as old as it is and used ones of the same age seem to be in far worse condition. Fortunately, I still have a job but they've cut my hours just enough during Covid19, that I've had to put my credit card in deferral while I try to figure out what to do (of course they aren't pausing interest). And as you probably know, the student loans are in deferral till January(thank God they paused interest). My credit score is 798, my lease ends in December, and I was trying to find a cheaper apartment, but it seems like I would have to move out of state. Which sounds like more debt. I spent the morning looking into a roommate situation, but I'm finding I'm not the only one. A lot of people are looking for someone already established. A lot of people established are looking to make a profit and are charging the full price of an apartment. I'm currently in a one bed/bath and I don't think sharing a bedroom with a complete stranger is going to work well. None of my friends are in a financial position to help me and my parents still act like I have wronged them. I was thinking of possibly talking to my apartment lease office to see if I can possibly upgrade to a 2 bedroom so I can possibly get a roommate that'll split costs, but I'm not sure how well that'll work. If a roommate decides to leave abruptly, then I'm stuck with the full rent of a 2-bedroom apartment until I can find another roommate. As stated at the beginning, any advice? [link] [comments]  |
| Cannot get a student loan for college, may get kicked out at semester's end Posted: 14 Oct 2020 10:47 AM PDT Hi. I am a student in college (20M), and it is my second year. My first year, I had a full ride scholarship and everything looked great for my future. However, this past summer, my parents were always too busy to sit down and do the financial aid paperwork that my college requested. Because of that, the paperwork didn't get done until just a couple weeks ago, losing all of my financial aid in the process. In addition, I can't get the federal student loans through my school because that paperwork wasn't quite done. Now I'm looking for a private loan, and my credit score (~600) is not good enough for any place to give me a loan on my own, which means I need a co-signer. My parents both have terrible credit, so they cannot get approved as co-signers. I've asked any other eligible friend I have to co-sign the loan, but they also declined, exhausting my last option 2 days ago. As class registration for next semester draws nearer, I get more and more worried that I won't have this loan on time and I'll have to drop college. What should I do? Has anyone been in a similar situation? If so, how did you manage? Note on the 2nd half of the title: I am currently living in college housing, unsure if they will kick me out if I don't pay since I won't be taking classes in Spring, or if they will just leave me here. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 14 Oct 2020 02:16 PM PDT This summer I decided I was going to look into buy a home. A friend referred me to their realtor. But after going through the process, I decided not to go through with it this year. I'm deferring until next year but not sure what the right approach should be, so I'd like some feedback. We looked all over my city, and I learned a LOT about the process and what the market looks like. It's a very competitive market unfortunately and prices are high – but there is still a lot of nice places I can afford. I got to the point where I was interested in making an offer on several houses. My agent put together the offer for the first house I saw was a fairly good fit for me. I made an offer on that one but the seller went with another offer. The second house seemed promising but when I got back the inspection report there were tons and tons of problems.. serious stuff like foundation damage, old ass plumbing, and so on. It was an older home and I just didn't anticipate how much work would be required for an older home. I ultimately declined. So after that, I felt too overwhelmed and decided to renew my lease for a few months so I could come back after the holidays and start looking again. I have been planning to go out of town for the holidays and my lease was ending in November. So I have given myself through early July with the option to end earlier if I pay a fee. I have some flexibility to take my time or jump on a great place if I see something I love in February. As far as financially, I have 20% downpayment and more on top of that to cover closing costs and moving, plus things like the apartment lease if I need to cancel it early. I think my realtor is a bit annoyed with me, but I want to take my time to make sure I'm happy with whatever place I end up buying. After the issue with the old house, I think I want to ideally find a more modern home and perhaps a 2-3 bedroom condo since I want the privacy of my own home but I don't think I'm ready to do major work on a "fixer upper" at this point in my life. Since I feel a bit pressured from the realtor, I wonder if I could tour a condo or house online without involving the realtor until I'm ready to make a decision. I do think they will be helpful in the process, but I want to make sure my heart is in it before I get to the point where I am making an offer. Does this make sense? Am I approaching this in a sane way? [link] [comments]  |
| When would you want to avoid capital gains? Posted: 14 Oct 2020 05:48 PM PDT I had a call with an advisor from my broker to ask them how to re-balance some funds. The guy gave me some good answers. THEN he tried to sell me on Fidelity managed funds, which of course he would. One very interesting thing that came out was the idea that taxable investment accounts generate significant tax liability that a managed account could avoid, and save you more money than the 1.2% management fee costs you. Bold statement, as a 1.2% fee is considered exorbitant, but I asked him for details. He gave this example saying that under certain circumstances, it may be beneficial to sell a mutual fund before getting capital gains on it to avoid taxes. I just cannot understand this. Let's say a mutual fund is about to give me $500 distribution. He said that if you want to hold the mutual fund for a long time, just take the $500 capital gains and pay taxes on it. This part I understand. BUT if you bought the fund halfway through the year, then you might actually want to sell it in Oct/Nov before you get the capital gains in order to avoid being taxed. According to the advisor, this is because you don't get capital gains based on how long YOU'VE held the fund, you get capital gains based on how many people in total have owned the fund which puts people who bought recently at a disadvantage. I don't understand this at all. If I have a fund and it gives me $500 in Oct/Nov, I can't think of a circumstance in which the math works out such that you don't want the capital gains, since the taxes will always be less than $500. Is there something I'm missing? EDIT: Aaaah! As someone pointed out, the advisor was talking about capital gains DISTRIBUTIONS, that much is clear. I use the terms interchangeably just because it's clear to me. Shouldn't have done that in writing. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 14 Oct 2020 05:45 PM PDT My parents really want to buy a house but the issue is that my mom's credit isn't good. My dad is slowly building up his credit and he believes that the house should also be in my name since my credit is very good. Realistically I would be having a part time job and would still be a full time college student. My dad and mom would be working full time. But what exactly are the consequences if I go along with this place? I intended to live with them for 3 years before going along my way and moving in a place with my boyfriend. Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Car dealership called about getting a better rate after already financing the car Posted: 14 Oct 2020 06:56 PM PDT So my girlfriend just bought a new car and to make a long story short she pays 400$ a month for a 24,000$ car with 3,000 down and 4,000 trade in with a 3.9 APR for 84 months. Anyways, she just gotten a car from the dealership saying they got a better rate for her. I don't know the numbers they didn't include any other info other than that. To me it sounds like an another way of swindling more money out of her. It doesn't make sense to me why would a dealership call you about a better deal when you already have a finance plan? By the way, she literally just got this car last week. I appreciate any comments. I'm not sure about this situation. Edit: I know these numbers seem wrong, but this is the information she told me. I'm still trying to wrap my head around it. Edit 2: I didn't include tax, registration, and insurance. After everything it should be roughly 25637$. Also another 30$ a month for extended warranty. Edit 3: Just found out that 4000$ trade in was to paying off her previous car fml. [link] [comments]  |
| Explain it like I'm five...Help with taking Social Security. Posted: 14 Oct 2020 02:27 PM PDT I just turned 64 and have always relied on my husbands financial assessments. This time I have doubts and please prove me wrong. We have approximately 1.3 million in an IRA and 700k in assets. He claims that taking my meager SS benefits would cost us more than if I didn't. We are both retired and the IRA is our only source of income. He says that we would have to file separately and the tax burden would negate the $500 or so that I would receive. I hope he is right but I can't help wanting a second opinion. I want to take the benefits now because I'm not in the best of health and don't see more than a few years in my future. Every little bit counts. [link] [comments]  |
| Australian debt sold to American company. How worried should I be? Posted: 14 Oct 2020 02:13 PM PDT I'm an American who lived in Australia for several years, and moved back to the USA a few years ago. Shortly before I decided to move back to the USA, I worked to pay off my credit cards. I hit a snag before I cleared one card, and left without paying it off. There was a balance of roughly $9,000 AUD. I was not in a position to pay off that card when I thought I would. I checked into if and how an Australian debt would be collected here, and it didn't seem like it would/could, so I didn't sweat about squaring it away. Apparently the laws may have changed in the last year or so. Due to work necessity, my phone number is easily found if you know my (extremely) unique name. A company has contacted me, though I pretty much hung up to avoid interacting with them. I searched their number, and they have offices in the USA and Australia. From what I gather, the USA office bought my Australian debt. My credit score here is about 800, and I'm concerned somehow they will get onto my credit report (they aren't on my experian report yet) or that they'll affect my condo mortgage. Obviously, the Australian credit card has never reported into my American credit report, so can this collections company really threaten my score? My spouse has no income because of covid, and my income has greatly suffered too. Can my debt from Australia cause me problems in the USA? What should I be prepared to do if/when they call back? I'd like to find out more about what they plan to do, but I didn't want to give them anything I didn't have to. I've never needed financial/legal advice before. Are there any free/low cost resources I should know about? I really kinda thought it was behind me, but now I'm concerned... [link] [comments]  |
| Does having two brokerages make tax season more complicated Posted: 14 Oct 2020 07:02 PM PDT I'm 19 years old, and for the past few months I've been learning how to day-trade on Robinhood, and I think I'm ready to expand to another brokerage account so that I can trade more than 3 times a week. I've never filed taxes before but will have to do so next year and I was wondering how having two brokerages will affect my tax-filing experience? [link] [comments]  |
| At what point is it not worth it to repair an old car? Posted: 14 Oct 2020 03:15 PM PDT Hi r/personalfinance... first off I'm sorry if this isn't the right place for this sort of post. I just don't really have a father figure to get car advice from and couldn't find any other sub to put this in, but if I need to move it please let me know! So I've been having issues with my 2007 Honda Accord's power steering for the last 6 months. It's been a really good car except for these recent issues, but I think it's not bad considering it has 194k miles on it! Anyway...I've had the power steering fluid pump replaced twice: once six months ago and again just last week. And I think they also replaced some sort of hose related to the power steering before either pumps were replaced. Then today my power steering totally craps out on me worse than it ever has before... I mean the car runs but it started making a terrible noise and it was so bad that I struggled to turn the wheel to switch lanes. So I tow it to the mechanic (I should note this is the same mechanic that did the previous 3 repairs on my power steering) and they tell me it's the rack and pinion, which a quick google tells me is the most important component in the power steering assembly as it convert's the circular turns of the steering wheel to linear turns of the tires. It'll gonna cost $748 for parts and labor, so probably $825 out the door. I'm just wondering.... what do I do? Is it stupid of me to get this fixed? So far I called another mechanic and they were more expensive and I don't like their vibe... they're too slick and sales-man-y. I compared the warranties between the two different mechanics; my regular guy said 2 yr/24k mi for parts and labor, and fast talking new mechanic said lifetime warranty on the part and 6 months on the labor. Since I think the 2yr/24k mi complete warranty was a better deal, and because they're cheaper, I trust them more, and they've always been up front with me (or so I think) so I decided to stick with my regular mechanic. Now I'm just wondering if I pulled the trigger too fast by agreeing to the repair so quickly? At some point should I start looking at buying a new car instead of repairing mine? Should I have towed it to another mechanic? I'd appreciate any advice just so I know what to do next time something like this happens with my car. Please let me know if you need any additional details! [link] [comments]  |
| I Received a Bonus Incorrectly Posted: 14 Oct 2020 04:05 PM PDT About 3 weeks ago I (23yo) was helping a buddy fix his truck after class when he asked if I wanted to get a burger and since it was right before I received my paycheck from my current job I looked in my bank account and noticed I had received a direct deposit for over $1,200 from my former employer. This was just a temporary summer job and didn't last for more than about 2 months. Confused I called my old manager and explained the situation and he told me it was an accounting error and that HR would be in contact with me in the next couple days to figure out a way to get the money back. A week went by and I called him again to see what was up since I had not heard from HR and he told me the same thing, they would call me to figure something out. Well now it is week 3 and I still haven't heard anything from the HR department so I have moved the exact amount from my checking account to my savings account so I don't accidentally spend it but what else should I do? Do I just keep holding on to this money until they get in contact with me? [link] [comments]  |
| I think my only option is Chapter 7/bankruptcy? Posted: 14 Oct 2020 04:22 PM PDT Hi all, I'll make this quick...I'm 30yrs old and clueless about money. $41K in debt (cc and 1 personal loan) they are all high APRs which I'm newly learning about. If I'm lucky this year I would've made $30K. I have no delinquent/behind payments but I'm just getting nowhere on these minimum payments. I have some chronic health issues that put me on temp disability for the majority of last year and even though I'm back to work I'm barely scraping by. 1 emergency/unexpected expense happens and I'm beyond broke. I called a nonproft debt management place and the 2 options were chapter 7 or attempt a 5yr program with them. After going over everything on the program I'd still be -$200/month. I have learned several very hard financial/life lessons and I'm trying to make this right and do better. I now live beneath my means, i have side jobs I do in addition to my regular job when I'm not sick, I've donated plasma, sold clothes and got on food stamps to make ends meet...am I out of options besides bankruptcy?? Thank you for any suggestions yall offer! And yes I completely understand what a mess I made. [link] [comments]  |
| Pay for school out of pocket, or use my experience to try and find a better job. Posted: 14 Oct 2020 02:42 PM PDT So, currently I am 20 making 17/hr full time as a grocery manager at a big retail company, from age 15-18 I was a Manager at a small business. I am currently putting around $200 in my retirement account. (Roth Ira, company offers a 401k, but I am not old enough to enroll) I want to eventually start a family and have a house. Living in Maryland, I know I will need to increase my income to have a chance at doing that stuff without going into debt. Currently I have no debt besides my car, would you guys go back to school? Or would you try to use your experience as leverage to find a better job? I understand, no degree can only take you so far. However, on a post made recently, some people were saying a lot of companies say they require degrees to work there, but they really don't. My company also offers 2k per calendar year for tuition reimbursement. [link] [comments]  |
| Financial advice on job options and cost of living comparisons Posted: 14 Oct 2020 05:32 PM PDT Obligatory: not sure if this is the right sub. I've been working from home for the past 7 months, only going in as needed, maybe 1x every 1-2 weeks. My husband lost his job ($45k/year) so we're on one income (mine, $122k/year). Combined thats $167k/year pre tax in the Chicago area (not suburbs, Chicago, because that's the split distance between his former work place and mine). However, my husband has a very similar skill set as mine, and we think his next job should be in the $90-$110k/year range (switching from academia to industry), which would enable us to feel comfortable buying a house and starting a family (in Chicago at least!) So, if things go well, we would hopefully have something like combined $220k/year in Chicago, which sounds astounding, but we typically take home a little less than half after taxes, retirement, Healthcare, etc. Still plenty. He has a very promising lead for a job in San Jose (literally used to work with the hiring manager and she seems to be fast tracking his application). I'm not ready to leave my job until June, but hoping to finangle things so that I could work remotely for the remainder of my project, then switch functions/transfer to my companies location in the same area (southern bay area). Does anyone have advice on 1) how much we'd need to make to have a comparable salary in the southern bay area compared to A) 167k and B) 220k in Chicago. 2) advice on how to convince my boss that it's better to keep me remote instead of lose me (we're already short staffed and my project is in critical time, plus, although its not public knowledge, my counter part will go on Maternity leave in 6M, so not a great time for project turnover) 3) any salary negotiating tactics to ensure we're at least breaking even with cost of living, or is it a smart move to offer to work remotely at the Chicago salary, essentially losing any cost of living increase from the new location (which isn't their fault anyway) 4) or do I just screw them over and start looking for a new job in the same location as my husband, at a different company? I'd be giving up about $20k in unvested RSUs if I went that route, and access to a pension plan in 1 year (that starts at 1.1% x final salary x #years worked, but essentially would be a guaranteed $6k/year from 65+ if i quit at 5 years, and could grow to an automatic $98k/year assuming 30 years and a salary growth of 3%/year - which i figure takes into account our merit increases of about 2.3-2.5% plus a few promotions) 5) with the job market as it currently is, and him trying to switch from academia to industry, how much is something "in the bag" worth over holding out for another position locally? ("In the bag" right now feels like a 50-50 chance, but I need to be ready to have these conversations with my management) Any advice is helpful. I'd love to get out to CA but I've heard over and over that no one can afford to live there... [link] [comments]  |
| I m good at saving but once I start spending. I would be spending so much. How do I control myself ? Posted: 14 Oct 2020 07:19 PM PDT I have an extry level job that pays me about 55k a year. It's not soo bad because I only work 8 shifts a fortnight. So far I have saved up $15k in the last 8 months. That's after paying all tax, student loans, rent and bills. So I feel pretty good because I saved up 50% of my earnings. Once I start saving, I m very determined. I won't buy anything I don't need, I don't waste anything, if I need something I will get it cheap. I didn't buy a car because I didn't want to pay for insurance and registration and gas. I barely spent any money on myself. And I want to spend on things I like. Because I am so bored with covid and I think spoiling myself will make me feel food. But my problem is, I won't stop easy. I used to save,save and save when I was a kid. But once I spend it, I spent it all in one go. How do I control my crazy antics? [link] [comments]  |
| Should I keep my Verizon roadside assistance or cancel it? Posted: 14 Oct 2020 03:20 PM PDT I noticed that Verizon hiked up the cost of this service to $4.99/month. In the past I had an old car, and actually used the service like 3 times, it was very helpful. However, my current car is only 2 years old, just got out of its warranty. So I doubt it will break down much. I noticed that through my Visa card, they have similar but not as good services set at $69.95/service. With Verizon, I pay $60/year for assistance coverage. However, since my car is new and I likely won't be using the coverage, would it make more sense to cancel the Verizon coverage, then go through my credit card in case I ever have an issue? Thoughts and advice are appreciated 😊 [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 14 Oct 2020 08:05 PM PDT Hey all, I'm a 29 year old married man with good job with a great 401k match. My wife and I bring in over 100k each year in a MCOL area with some years being significantly higher due to business income. (This year will see no bonus however). My software job matches my 401k at 50% with no limit so I max that out each year. My question is if I should instead look into a roth IRA for a portion of my investment as our retirement income may be taxed at a higher rate due to how much we save. The guarantee of 50% returns seems crazy to pass up but I want to make sure I'm not missing something basic. Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 14 Oct 2020 09:38 AM PDT My parents are relatively poor and were very bad at budgeting and money management. My mom passed away recently and I am helping my father deal with the finances. I found out that they had accrued around 25 credit cards, totaling around 95K in total debt. My dad owns the house which is worth maybe $150K and he is older and wants to live there until he dies. He has Social Security (~1K/month) and a low paying ($8/hr) job to keep him busy and he has been making minimum payments on CCs for months but he can't afford those, especially now that he will not be able to receive full benefits from my mother's social security. Here are my thoughts that I would like advice on.
Thoughts? Any other ideas? EDIT - just a note, the cars are low value - 1984 Geo Metro, 1980 Chevy Pickup, 2012 Nissan Frontier and a 2016 Kia Sorento. The Kia may have some value, but the others are not solutions. [link] [comments]  |
| Bank refusing to close my account or tell me why they won't do it. Posted: 14 Oct 2020 10:46 AM PDT I opened a National Bank of AZ checking account online in July and funded it with an initial deposit of $50 from my existing US Bank account. I set up online banking and thought I was good to go. NBAZ sent me instructions to verify the deposit, cool no problem. I tried to log into their online banking and it said I had to call customer service. Called and they said I'd have to make an appointment with a banker at a branch to finish opening the account. I do not want to do that during Covid, I have an immunocompromised kiddo and avoid all interactions I can. I asked them to instead reverse the funds transfer and close my account. They said I'd have to go into the branch to close it as well. Then I got an email saying if I didnt verify the $50 initial deposit within 60 days, the account would close. Great, I'll just wait it out. Got another email saying the same 5 days before the 60 day mark. Great. Except they didnt close it and are taking maintenance fees out of the account that according to them, isn't open yet? Called today, asked to close account and was put on hold. Was told I have to physically go in to close it "in this case" and that "to protect the privacy of the account" they can't tell me what "this case" is or why I have to go in. I just want my money back and I don't want to go in. Is there anything I can do or a guess as to why they won't tell me what's going on? Thanks for your time. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 14 Oct 2020 08:35 PM PDT So, I'm looking for a couple good books that talk about what's good to invest in, not as much regarding stocks but maybe other ideas? I know some people love buying and selling cars or old coins, anything, they buy cheaper and sell for more. Don't have much knowledge in those areas and would be curious to read up on any areas that do well or may be tanking hard. Thanks for the help in advance! [link] [comments]  |
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