Personal Finance T Rowe Price withdrew $30,000 from my savings account to fund a $6,000 Roth IRA. |
- T Rowe Price withdrew $30,000 from my savings account to fund a $6,000 Roth IRA.
- $8360 taken out of my checking account. Chase bank won't credit a fraud ATM charge.
- A couple recent fraudulent credit card charges may have exposed something very unsettling
- Should I be investing more of my money?
- Declined counter offer
- Proving payment on old debt to public housing?
- What to do with my 401k after leaving my job?
- Lending through Rocket Mortgage
- Is my boss giving us a bonus or an advance & im getting swindled??
- Should I loan out money for an investment property?
- Should you buy a place that has ridiculously high HOA fees
- Is it possible to get out of lease early? Help plz.
- Please help me manage my (wildly positive) expectations on the growth of my retirement savings
- Repeated Fraudulent Charges - At Wits End
- Looking for advice for my parents who most likely bought scam tickets almost 2 years ago…
- Steps to Do a Backdoor Roth IRA, But First Need to Withdraw Normal Roth Contributions
- Would you choose a commission only job or a higher paying salary and commission job?
- Trying to get into investing. What should I do?
- How should I pay for a large expense (three options)?
- Advice on being double insured + HSA/FSA
- Should I cancel a rewards credit card that I don’t really use?
- 401k withdrawal strategy: 4% rule, 5% rule or higher?
- 2020 401K contributions question - did I go over limit?
- Soon to be licensed Architect... advice needed for insurance and pay bump negotiations.
| T Rowe Price withdrew $30,000 from my savings account to fund a $6,000 Roth IRA. Posted: 04 Nov 2021 08:15 AM PDT Woke up this morning with a text alert from my bank saying my account was overdrafted. I log in, and see a balance of -15,000. I set up a Roth IRA for the first time with T Rowe Price two days ago. Bought into 5 funds at $1200 each, for a total of $6k, the maximum allowable Roth IRA contribution for 2021. I see that instead of withdrawing $6000, T Rowe Price withdrew $30,000!!! They essentially stole $24,000 from me. I call T Rowe Price immediately when I see this mistake. The lady I spoke with (I think her name was Christian?) said that I funded 5 different Roth IRA accounts at $6,000 each, two days ago. Clearly she has no idea how a Roth IRA works. I told her this wasn't possible, as the maximum yearly contribution for a Roth IRA was $6,000. She continues to try to gaslight me and tell me this was my mistake. I finally get another customer service agent, who tells me they will open a ticket and to call my bank for the funds back. I call my bank to dispute the transaction. They tell me they would, but won't have any updates for me until next week. So now I have -15,000 in my back account, thanks to T Rowe Price taking an extra $24,000 from me. Stick with Vanguard or Fidelity for your Roth IRA needs… EDIT: For those saying it was a clerical error on my end, T. Rowe Price's website does NOT let you contribute more than your IRS limit per year. Here is what I see when I try to do that. There is no way this was an error on my end. And as you can see, the screenshot confirms my story. I did not receive a confirmation email from T. Rowe Price until 8:30 AM this morning, and the statement had the incorrect amounts ($6k into each fund, instead of $6k total.) EDIT #2: So this is how T Rowe Price's Roth IRA funding works: You enter the amount you want to contribute on the first page shown in the screenshot(Eg. $6k), then it takes you to a page to select your funds. Then you select the % of your contribution each fund receives. So I said that I wanted each fund to receive 20% of my 6k contribution, at $1200 each. There is a minimum of $1,000 to buy into each fund. So I really don't see where I could have accidentally put 6k into EACH fund. I only hit submit on the webpage once. T Rowe Price called me back and stated that they would do some keystroke analysis to find out what happened. They told me to call my bank for the funds back. My bank said it would take 3 business days to get everything sorted. EDIT#3: The T Rowe Price employee just called me again. Said he didn't have any updates about the "keystroke analysis," and that it would take about 3 days to come back. He clarified that I only have ONE Roth IRA with 5 mutual funds, funded at 6,000 each. He stated another customer may have had the same glitch this morning where it funded a mutual fund with $6,000 when it was supposed to be less than that. He was pretty understanding, and asked if I could pay may bills while they get this sorted. I said yes (assuming it will only take a few days for my bank to get the funds back.) I wonder what they would have done if I said no? Either way, feeling less panicked. And I have been happy with the way T Rowe Price has responded. I wasn't expecting a second phone call tonight. The rep even offered to call daily to check in; I told him he didn't need to call everyday, and he could just call when he had updates. Thank you for all the responses!!! [link] [comments]  |
| $8360 taken out of my checking account. Chase bank won't credit a fraud ATM charge. Posted: 04 Nov 2021 04:06 AM PDT I had $8360 withdrawn from my checking account. Long story short - Chase bank were able to credit $8000 from an in person withdrawal and whatever an "e-withdrawal" was however they won't credit the $360 ATM withdrawal that happened few hours after (basically wiping the account down to like $10). The fraud department supervisor "Stephanie" kept saying since it was done in one attempt(pin code), that it was the determining factor for denying the claim. I had my debit card with me the whole time when it happened and she kept saying it's not possible for it to happen the way it did since it took the person only one attempt and that I could have had someone else withdraw it, what kind of BS is that? How is this the fraud department's determination and disregard of whatever hackers/scammers are capable of doing? How is my $8000 determined as fraud but not the $360? I'm living proof that it's possible and yet she kept saying it isn't, this is so frustrating. What steps can I take now? [link] [comments]  |
| A couple recent fraudulent credit card charges may have exposed something very unsettling Posted: 03 Nov 2021 09:57 AM PDT *Please note I'm not using real names but the following story is all true. I'm looking for all the advice I can get. On the morning of 10/30/2021, I was alerted via text by my credit card company (American Express) of a transaction in the amount of $86.32 from Walmart.com. I immediately called American Express and informed them this purchase was not made by me. They said the amount was "pending" but marked it as fraudulent and assured me it wouldn't go through. They also mentioned that this transaction was made using an old credit card that was no longer valid. I thought that was odd because it didn't immediately deny it but put it in a pending state instead. They mentioned that if a former card was in a virtual wallet or digitally in an online profile that it could potentially still be used. I had no idea that would be the case. Shortly after the call, I noticed I had an email from Walmart.com. The email confirmed the order I just called American Express to dispute. It was at this time I realized that the suspect purchased these items online, using my account, and thus had access to my virtual wallet. I immediately logged into my Walmart account, changed my password, deleted my old credit card in my virtual wallet, and canceled the confirmed order. It was then that I saw not one but two separate orders with two separate shipping addresses for each order. I tried cancelling both orders but was only able to cancel the first because the second was still processing. The first order was for $86.32 (the purchase I just disputed with American Express). The items were an air mattress and adult wet wipes (not making this up). I noticed that the address listed to where the products would be shipped had my first and last name on it but not my home address. I did an open source search of the address and found a name and telephone number attached to the address. I called the number believing this may potentially be the suspect. An older gentleman answered the phone and I asked if his name was "Kenny" (not his actual name, just using something for his privacy) and if he lived at that address. He said yes and asked who I was. I told him I had a few questions about his recent online order for Walmart. He said he didn't order anything from Walmart. I asked him, "So you didn't order an air mattress and adult wet wipes from Walmart.com?", to which he responded, "I ordered that stuff on eBay yesterday". This is when I realized, he wasn't the suspect, he was potentially an innocent bystander. I explained the situation and he told me the username he ordered it from on eBay was, "FRX296" (this is not the actual username). I thanked him for the information and ended the call. The second order was for $99.98. The items were a 5 Gallon Bucket of Evapo-Rust and a bottle of 5mg Melatonin. Almost the same as the first order but with a different address than the first. My first and last name was attached but the shipping address wasn't mine. I did an open source search of the address and found a name and telephone number attached to the address. I called the number and a gentleman answered the phone. I asked if his name was "Scotty" (again, not actual name) and if he lived at that address. He said yes and asked who I was. The conversation went exactly the same way as the previous. He purchased these products on eBay the previous day from the user "FRX296", the same eBay seller. He mentioned he actually purchased two 5 Gallon Buckets from the seller on eBay and said he didn't order the Melatonin pills at all though. I thanked him for the information and ended the call. I then called American Express back and let them know that I believe there's two fraudulent transactions on my card and the second may have not come through yet. I also provided them with eBay information I just obtained. While I was on the phone, I received another transaction alert from American Express via text and it was for the second transaction I previously mentioned ($99.98). American Express confirmed this charge as well while on the phone and marked it as fraudulent. They told me that both orders should be cancelled and that there was nothing else I would need to do on my part. The listings for the eBay user "FRX296" are a very random assortment of things ranging from Tires, Ceramic Dishes, and Evapo-Rust. All items are offered "Free Shipping" and at least for the Evapo-Rust, it was the cheapest on the site. A perfect setup to entice potential buyers to buy from him. Weird but smart enough to at least push the product for quick sales. I texted "Scotty" a message to let him know that he probably wouldn't receive his items that he ordered from eBay because my credit card company would be denying the Walmart payment. He said he'd dispute it with the seller on eBay if he didn't receive it. I thought that was where this would all end. Yesterday, 11/02/2021, I received a text from "Scotty". The order from Walmart did in fact ship to him with my first and last name listed on the package but it was missing an item (the other 5 Gallon Bucket we knew would be missing from the order). He texted me a screenshot of his message to the seller on eBay asking for a return label and refund because the package had someone else's name on it (mine) and that it wasn't everything he ordered. The seller actually provided a return address. That's when I saw the seller's first and last name along with what appeared to be his home address for the first time. I looked up the user on eBay myself and saw the seller had 0 reviews and the account had only be created less than a month ago. As a former (8 year) intelligence contractor for two 3 letter agencies, my curiosity got the best of me and I wanted to see what I could find (if anything) using google and other open source entities before I contacted the local sheriff's department closest to the subject's address. From a Google search of the address, I was able to determine the homeowners of the property are husband and wife. Same first and last name as the one listed on eBay. From a public LinkedIn profile, I determined the husband is a 20+ year experienced Gov-Contractor who specializes in IT data security and IT data privacy. Also from a public LinkedIn profile, I determined his wife is a 15+ year experienced banker and is currently working as a Senior Program Manager for American Express...who specializes in fraud and anti-money laundering. He's a Gov-Contractor IT Data Specialist and his wife works for my credit card company. I sent everything I had to the FBI Field Office closest to their residence. Is this the greatest coincidence of all time or am I about to take down a 15+ year old scam that raked in millions? I hope it gets national attention if it breaks... *UPDATE 11/4* I truly appreciate some of the advice from the comments and I'm moving forward with some of it today. I figured it couldn't hurt tipping off the local PD nearest to the alleged suspect's home address. If anything, they'll be more inclined to move on something, especially if it's a relatively quiet county. The DEF CON - Confessions of an Nespresso Money Mule - YT Video: Not sure who originally posted this in the comments but this is absolutely the scam I'm a part of. Thank you for posting this because I was unaware the scam had a name and it was much bigger than I could imagine. However, there's a key piece missing from her story that is actually in mine. She never tried to return anything to the eBay seller and Scotty did. My case could be a game changer for that reason so if anything, it has given me more initiative to pursue. WALMART: This entire process has taught me a lot and some of the business practices I've learned I feel I need to share. Walmart appears to be doing anything they can to keep up with the Amazon style of fast shipping. They're going as far as shipping products while payment is still pending which is what happened in my case. This is bad for many reasons but most importantly it enables scammers to continue to launder money. The reason the payment is pending isn't totally clear but Walmart ships the product anyways because they have to have that 1 or 2 day delivery to compete. Both charges posted to my AMEX account yesterday, exactly 5 days after they were ordered. They've been tagged as fraud and yes, I'll get reimbursed but if Walmart and other business continue to do this, it'll never stop, and in the end, everybody loses. I might get my money back today but somewhere down the road, we'll all pay for it. If the admins allow it, I'll continue to update. Thanks again. [link] [comments]  |
| Should I be investing more of my money? Posted: 04 Nov 2021 07:26 PM PDT I am currently in my early 20s and have $40,000 in my savings, $20,000 in stocks, $2,500 in my Roth IRA. I currently live with my parents, have no debt, employed and making around $30,000 yearly. My job doesn't offer 401k from what I know, we receive pension instead. I want to buy a house within the next 5 years if possible. Houses in my area that I would be interested in are around $300k-$400k. Now my question is, should I be holding this much in my savings? Should I be maxing out my IRA yearly? I currently don't need a house, but want to move out eventually. I am waiting for the housing market to at least go back to "normal" or become affordable for me. When I move out I will most likely be living with my girlfriend and am not sure if we would be splitting the house or not. I know Roth IRA investments can be pulled out for a house, but I thought it would be better as something to just put in and never touch. I wish I knew about Roth IRA, just only found out it a couple months ago. Also I currently work a state job and my pay will increase slowly overtime, but doubt it will increase a lot in the future. Maybe see myself making $30 an hour in the 5 -10years maybe? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 04 Nov 2021 06:20 PM PDT I applied for and was given an offer for a position within my current company. I spoke to the hiring manager about the salary and he told me to send an email and he would discuss with HR. I sent the email requesting a ~10% increase and justifying why (market rate, qualifications,etc.) Yesterday I received a call from the hiring manager vaguely informing me that HR stated there is no room for flexibility. The reason why there was no room for flexibility was unclear to him. I have found this to be common within the company. Hiring managers don't know on what bases HR is making salary decisions. Can I ask him to provide clarification via email as to why my counter offer was declined? [link] [comments]  |
| Proving payment on old debt to public housing? Posted: 04 Nov 2021 05:42 PM PDT Backstory: My mom is disabled. Growing up, we were on Section 8 housing. Until I went away to college in 2006, I helped take care of everything, filling out renewal forms and stuff. Once I was away at college, I taught my brother what to do and passed it on to him. Well, he fucked up and my mom was told in 2011 that she somehow owed Section 8 $1300. She and my brother had to move in with my grandparents and, while there, she paid off the $1300 sometime around 2013-14. I remember this distinctly because I was living in Japan at the time and she was so proud of it, she showed me the paid in full letter over Skype. I came back from Japan in 2018. I've let my mom live with me since to help her build up a new savings and not have my brother constantly mooching off of her. Now that she's in a more stable place, I've helped her reapply to Section 8 so that she can get a place of her own again. Cue crisis. We got notified that she was declined because she still owes the $1300, but that she could appeal the decision if she could pay it now or prove that it's already been paid off. We've looked everywhere for that letter, but it's nearly a decade old. Her online bank statements only go back to 2016 so, as of yet, we haven't been able to find any shred of evidence that she paid or made payments on it. How do we prove payment on such an old debt? [link] [comments]  |
| What to do with my 401k after leaving my job? Posted: 04 Nov 2021 06:47 AM PDT I left my job in the middle of October, and I need to know what to do with the 401k at that company. I am fully vested, and the fund has around $42,500 in it. It is invested with Vanguard. 65% invested in VILVX, 20% invested in VINIX, and 15% invested in VTIAX. My new employer uses Vanguard for their 401k as well, but from what I can tell, they don't have the best fund options to choose from. The 5 with tickers are VTMNX, VEMIX, VIEIX, VBTIX, and VIIIX. Then the other options are all named Aon Index 20xx Retirement Solution Class S. So this leads to the question in the title, what should I do with my 401k from my previous employer? With my new salary, my wife and I are going to start maxing out our Roth IRAs every year, but as we sit now they don't have much money in them. Should I just roll my 401k over into my Roth IRA and just eat the tax penalty on it right now? Should I roll it over to my new company's 401k even though the plans I can choose from are a little more lackluster? Should I create a Traditional IRA account and roll it over into that to avoid any taxes on it? Is there another option that I haven't considered that you would recommend? [link] [comments]  |
| Lending through Rocket Mortgage Posted: 04 Nov 2021 12:29 PM PDT I'm sure there will be people who have better experiences than we, ymmv, etc but god damn I cannot recommend more that people don't use Rocket Mortgage. Wife and I started the process of buying a place. We were only in the early stages. Just looking and what not. We started investigating pre approval. We got our toes wet through the typical avenues like our bank and took a look at some of the online lending services like guaranteed rate and rocket mortgage. By the end of the first day I had probably 2 phone calls, an email, and a text pressuring me to go through next steps. Like the first hard pull on our credit and what not. I told them to back off since we were not there yet. Didn't even have a real estate agent. Following days were consistently 2 phone calls, 2 emails, and 2 texts from my "lending agent" on next steps. To which I've responded to take me off their systems and cease contact yet they keep coming. I apologize if this isn't the appropriate subreddit for this. Just needed a space to vent. [link] [comments]  |
| Is my boss giving us a bonus or an advance & im getting swindled?? Posted: 04 Nov 2021 05:45 PM PDT I don't know if this is the right place to ask this but basically if my clinic makes more that $50,000 in a week (which isn't uncommon) then the staff get a bonus at the end of the week. Usually ~$120. But then on our next paychecks its ~$120 short and stated as an advance. Is it some kind of tax thing that levels out to a bonus? Because when he's cashing out he says something like "this is like getting your weekly salary bumped a dollar or two" but it just seems like I'm getting an advance? Is this a thing? [link] [comments]  |
| Should I loan out money for an investment property? Posted: 04 Nov 2021 05:43 PM PDT I was asked to loan $50,000 for a home flip by someone that I trust would fully pay me back. The deal is that I would get the entire $50,000 back plus $300 for every month the loan was out. Like I said, this is from someone I really trust that is in the process of a loan on another property that can't take out another loan. They have plenty of money and investments, just a weird situation that this great deal fell in their lap at a bad time. Am I asking for trouble doing this? [link] [comments]  |
| Should you buy a place that has ridiculously high HOA fees Posted: 04 Nov 2021 07:31 PM PDT I'm an undergraduate living in NYC and planning on staying here after graduation. My thought was to move to Manhattan, I took hour long commute to school and work. While browsing, I noticed that HOA fees for Condo/Co-op in the city are ridiculously high, ranging from 2K-4K on the listings I like. Granted, those listings are cheaper, way cheaper than what would normally cost in NYC. But it just bothers me so much, the whole idea of trying to own a place is that I don't have to help my landlord put his/her mortgage. I'm contemplating if I should just live in somewhere rural and endure the commute. Are there any better options? Btw, I'm nowhere near a downpayment, nor a stable job, just browsing and try to get a general idea, so I can have somewhat a goal to save. [link] [comments]  |
| Is it possible to get out of lease early? Help plz. Posted: 04 Nov 2021 08:59 PM PDT So I plan on calling landlord tomorrow, as things have gotten to a point to where I'm gonna breakdown. I live with an incompetent drunk who spends all he has every month on booze. I knew the guy for a couple of months before signing lease, he seemed normal and decent. Fast forward to now and I'm paying his portion of rent. I need to get out or will be financially ruined by this asshole. I don't understand lease language but it says rerental fee is current months rent plus two. But also says it does not include rent or other losses incurred by them as a result of my early termination. Does this mean I am fucked? How likely is it that my landlord will work with me without destroying my credit and savings? Any advice helps thx. [link] [comments]  |
| Please help me manage my (wildly positive) expectations on the growth of my retirement savings Posted: 04 Nov 2021 07:24 PM PDT Hey all. So I've been maxing out my 401K accounts at my various jobs since 2008 (I was lucky enough to be able to get into investing at the absolute rock bottom of the market during the crash that year). At 39 years old, I'm heavy into stocks. Recently I was able to cobble together statements from the past 105 months (back to about April 2013), showing the growth of my total retirement savings over that timeframe. To try and figure out how much I might have when I retire, I applied an exponential trendline to the data in Excel (https://imgur.com/a/ILulIG4). To be blunt, I must be doing something wrong, because the equation of the line makes it seem as though I'll be sitting on something like 50 mil when I retire (x=400). I'd be astonished if it were a quarter that, and most online "how much will I have when I retire?" calculators are giving me figures 1/10 that amount. I know that there are several factors that might be skewing my estimate, and I'm not a math guru, so I'm hoping that someone here can sort me out. The main possibilities I've come up with would be:
4 ...something else? Can anyone set me straight? Thanks PF. [link] [comments]  |
| Repeated Fraudulent Charges - At Wits End Posted: 04 Nov 2021 07:04 PM PDT I'm at a loss of what to do, and I'm genuinely at my wits end. It all started in early September when someone placed a number of fraudulent charges on my bank card. I caught them, canceled them, and walked away without losing any money. There were four or five total. Skip ahead to late September (and into October), someone tried to buy phones using my mobile account. They purchased 2 phones and insurance. Again, I caught it. After 2 emails to the FCC, I got everything resolved. I learned this time and changed ALL my passwords for EVERY account. Not one is the same. I also froze my credit to avoid any more issues. On top of that, I bought and downloaded various antivirus and Anti-Malware apps to scan my phone to see if there was a key logger or SOMETHING that could be recording my info. Nope. Nothing. Today, I get an email from PayPal for saying I bought something. Spoiler alert: I didn't. This was also fraudulent. I have disputed it, but I'm about to lose it. Why does this keep happening? What can I do? What havent I done thats still causing these issues? I dont know what to do anymore to stop this. I realize I'm lucky that I haven't technically lost anything but I'm struggling to keep up. Thank you in advance for any help. [link] [comments]  |
| Looking for advice for my parents who most likely bought scam tickets almost 2 years ago… Posted: 04 Nov 2021 04:51 PM PDT So my folks 'bought' Rolling Stones tickets from this website scorebig.com pre-covid and obviously the show has been cancelled and rescheduled multiple times but is scheduled to go on in less than 2 weeks. They haven't received their requested paper tickets, have reached out via email, and called customer support and it's just a random loop that says "your tickets are on the way" no matter what phone you call from. They think they got scammed and I agree. I told them to dispute this with their credit card which happens to be Chase and they've told them they're passed their 500 days to dispute and there's nothing they can do. I think that's bull shit as it's an event that has been pushed back for over a year and a half. They are in the process of getting a police report filed just to make things easier but I wanted to post and see if anybody else had any ideas like who to report this too. My mother has already made a report with the Better Business Bureau about the website but wanted to know how to proceed with Chase bank. [link] [comments]  |
| Steps to Do a Backdoor Roth IRA, But First Need to Withdraw Normal Roth Contributions Posted: 04 Nov 2021 04:31 PM PDT My goal is to a backdoor Roth IRA this year as my wife and I are over the income limit for direct Roth contributions. My understanding of the steps are that I need to open up a Traditional IRA, fund it (reporting as non-deductible), and then convert that to a Roth. The problem, however, is that I already contributed $6,000 directly to my Roth IRA this year not knowing we would be over the income limit. I need to withdraw that money first and am essentially being given two options by Schwab:
What is the correct way to go about that first step? [link] [comments]  |
| Would you choose a commission only job or a higher paying salary and commission job? Posted: 04 Nov 2021 07:49 PM PDT Job 1 is commission only and is in a field I'd like to be in long term. Annual averages range from 80-120k Job 1 is 1099 with what seems to be more working hours. Job 2 is one I'm good at with a high paying base+commission structure. 115-150k annual averages Job 2 is a job that has better benefits and structure around a work life balance. I have a newborn and wife for context. Job 1 will be a place I feel I can grow my knowledge in a niche that I'm going to be doing for a long time but might bring more financial stress as money is fairly tight at the moment. Job 2 will bring financial stability but isn't something that fires me up internally. While I haven't done this role to know if it would or not. It seems like this would bring more peace of mind but I'll be a little more mentally drained. Job 1 might bring more stress from no guaranteed income. I'd love to hear everyone's thoughts on this as I'm seriously interested in both but want an outsiders perspective on this. [link] [comments]  |
| Trying to get into investing. What should I do? Posted: 04 Nov 2021 01:00 PM PDT I started college this fall and had to quit my food-service job of almost 2 years to move to the campus. They recently cashed out my 401k and sent me over $500 in a check that I have cashed out. I want to reinvest most of this, so I looked into some apps, downloaded E*Trade, and then realized I had no idea what I was looking at. I'd heard something that sounded reasonable where I invest money in growth stocks, let it double, and transfer the earnings to a safer stock, leaving the initial amount in the growth stock. Is this a smart strategy? And if so, how should I go about investing, and what stocks should I look at? What are some guidelines in general to investing? I'm really interested in investing and eager to learn. I apologize if I seem confused (I really have no idea what I'm doing), and thanks in advance for any advice. [link] [comments]  |
| How should I pay for a large expense (three options)? Posted: 04 Nov 2021 09:26 AM PDT I am getting LASIK in about a month to finally not have to wear glasses, which I've had since the sixth grade, anymore. Expecting the cost to be roughly $4000. Not getting it is not an option, I've wanted it for a while and finally got it scheduled. While we don't live paycheck to paycheck, this is still a bit too much to just absorb in our regular costs, so I was wondering which of these three options makes the most sense. 1) My work just switched from FSA to HSA at the beginning of this year, so I no longer have to "use it or lose it" (otherwise I would have used this by default). I have contributed $2700 so far this year. However, I've been investing it and the account is currently worth $2900 (it's up roughly 7% on the year). I like all my positions and expect it to continue to grow going forward, but I could liquidate all of them and pay almost all of the cost with that money, and then basically just start over investing it again next year. 2) We have roughly $20,000 set aside for some kind of work on our house this spring, plus a little more from our upcoming tax return, to maybe add a second bathroom, or a mudroom, or fix up the basement or whatever. We haven't quite decided what to spend it on yet. I could just take $4000 from that and then we'd just have to do something that costs $4000 less when it comes time to spend on the house and not worry about this bill at all. 3) I could open a credit card that offers 0% for 12 months or so and just pay like $333/month for the next year, which would stretch our monthly budget a little but still be affordable. There is no worry that it would not be paid off by the time the intro period expires, and this would allow me to leave the HSA and renovation budget in tact. What would you do? [link] [comments]  |
| Advice on being double insured + HSA/FSA Posted: 04 Nov 2021 07:01 PM PDT I've just realized that being on my parents insurance may disqualify me from my companies HSA. I'll have to dig into the details to make sure, but assuming it is, what I should do in this situation? I will only be at this company for about 6 months, so I don't want to fuck up my insurance under my parents. On the other hand, my company is making contributions that I don't want to miss out on. [link] [comments]  |
| Should I cancel a rewards credit card that I don’t really use? Posted: 04 Nov 2021 06:57 PM PDT I have 2 credit cards total. The first one I use pretty regularly making regular payments on it and the second one is a rewards card for a store that I used to go to regularly. But now I have not been going so often because im working to pay off my first credit card and don't want the burden of worrying about the other credit card. Should I cancel the rewards credit card since I probably won't be using it? Would it make a difference to keep a credit card that you do not use? [link] [comments]  |
| 401k withdrawal strategy: 4% rule, 5% rule or higher? Posted: 04 Nov 2021 09:51 AM PDT The 4% rule is supposedly too conservative (being based on the the bear market of the 70s). 5% withdrawal rate sounds reasonable but can I go higher safely? [link] [comments]  |
| 2020 401K contributions question - did I go over limit? Posted: 04 Nov 2021 06:52 PM PDT I hit my $19,500 limit for 401k contributions this year (first time ever, woohoo). I noticed my last paycheck was a lot larger because the company stopped taking money once I hit the max contribution. I just logged in to vanguard and it shows I contributed $19,500 plus a few thousand from my company match. Did I inadvertently go over my limit? Or is it just 19.5 from me + whatever company adds in is still ok? [link] [comments]  |
| Soon to be licensed Architect... advice needed for insurance and pay bump negotiations. Posted: 04 Nov 2021 05:16 PM PDT Hey PF! First time caller, long time listener.. Background: I'm a young professional in architecture. I REALLY enjoy the environment, people and work I do at the firm - and I DO NOT intend to leave the firm in the foreseeable future. Both my wife and I work there, and there is under 10 employees. Revenue, profits, and new work look to be on a very good uptrend for the next 18 months. Situation: I'm about to gain my licensure and become a bigger asset to a smaller firm. I make 56k after 4 years. Now, for a licensed architect (important), the competitive rate is around 60-68k. I feel that I definitely have proved (based on my reviews) I deserve to be in the 68k range for this bump. Now in the past reviews, I've negotiated pretty hard and have always been met in the middle with take home pay because we have 100% covered health insurance, and they use this as their "negotiation" tactic. Now for me, that's not a huge perk as I'm healthy and don't require much medical attention. My wife on the other hand, is about double the amount they are paying for her. Think this way: If we were 1:1 equals in the company, she makes 50k and I make 50k, but her insurance premium is 20k for the year and mine is 10k for the year - so in theory there is a 10k difference in compensation. Should/could I negotiate by asking to be removed from the plan and be on my wife's plan? Should save the company some money and I'll negotiate the "difference" to put back in my pocket? Or is that not how this works? I'm not going to be upset if I don't get 68k, but it is something I'm willing to fight pretty hard for. Thoughts? Any other architects willing to discuss how they negotiated pay at their licensure? Or any other architects with access to the "small firm" AIA compensation report that I could look at to be more competitive? [link] [comments]  |
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