Personal Finance Dig out your own plumbing people! |
- Dig out your own plumbing people!
- You're taking a huge risk by linking Venmo or Paypal to your primary banking accounts.
- Someone put 2400 in $ into my bank account via Zelle
- The "other" costs of buying a house
- Alaska Airlines charged less than what Google Flights indicated
- Accidentally overpaid my credit card
- Disabled and make too much $$$ for help
- See article: “Young People” Need to Save 40% to Retire at 65?!?
- Should I max out my 401k?
- How do I prioritize retirement and buying a house?
- I am being charged by a doctor for a service he didn’t do. What recourse do I have?
- Thoughts on maxing out Roth IRA before 401k?
- IRS tax penalty for withdrawing from Roth IRA?
- So I'm trying to set up a bank account, but everyone I ask for help is clueless on how to do it.
- Graduating in 2 months from college, what do I do next?
- Changing card verification code to prevent purchase?
- Retirement rollover
- No Expenses - What Should I Spend??
- What to do with current savings
- What's the best way to refinance/lower payment on a mortgage of $52,000 with interest of 6.875%?
- Tips to meet minimum debit card transactions for a higher APY?
- Help with Inheritance
- Selling a house soon
- Several years ago I hit a rough patch and now I'm trying to climb out of it. I'm trying to decide what my best options are to bring up my credit score and pay off some debt.
- Where to invest
| Dig out your own plumbing people! Posted: 24 Oct 2019 05:55 AM PDT Had a blockage in a drain pipe. It was so bad snaking didn't work and got an estimate of $2,500 to dig and replace. got a few more estimates that were around the same range $2k-$3k. I asked the original plumber, the one who attempted to snake it, how far down the line the blockage was. Then I proceeded to spend the evening digging it out myself. Had a plumber replace the line for $250 a grand total of $2.25k savings in exchange for 3 hours of digging. Edit: call 811 before you dig. [link] [comments]  |
| You're taking a huge risk by linking Venmo or Paypal to your primary banking accounts. Posted: 23 Oct 2019 09:04 AM PDT Your checking/savings accounts are very secure. They are heavily regulated including numerous laws designed to protect consumers. Venmo/Paypal is none of the above. It is possible for someone to gain access to your Venmo Account (either by hacking in or even by sending you an unauthorized transfer). Your connected checking/savings account can then be drained. A lot of people mistakenly assume than Venmo offers the same or even better consumer protections against fraud as their bank account, but this is untrue. Having a secure checking account and then connecting it to Venmo/Paypal is like locking your door, arming your alarm and then leaving all your windows wide open. What should you do instead? There are at least two better options: For infrequent users, use a credit card (not a debit card) to send money, and just leave incoming transfers in Venmo. Yes, you will have to pay a fee for each CC transaction (usually 3%), but that 3% pays for an additional level of fraud prevention/protection from the CC company. For incoming transfers, it's not going to hurt anything to leave a few hundred dollars parked in Venmo. For frequent users, link an Air Gap checking account to your Venmo. Lots of industries use air gaps as part of their safety/security protocols. An Air Gap Checking Account is an account that's connected to Venmo and not connected to anything else. If you want to transfer money to/from your Air Gap account, you'll need to physically withdraw cash from one account and physically deposit it in the other. Sure, both of these options may be inconvenient, and they may cost some extra money in CC fees or account fees. But here's the thing you need to keep in mind: if you can't afford to pay 3% in CC fees, or you can't afford to leave $200 parked in Venmo, or you can't afford the account fees to open another checking account, then you definitely can't afford to have your primary banking accounts drained by fraudulent Venmo charges. [link] [comments]  |
| Someone put 2400 in $ into my bank account via Zelle Posted: 24 Oct 2019 03:14 AM PDT Interesting surprise today. Wake up to three emails asking me to give someone named Nicholas with his last name $2400.00 The email says: Hello, I juts accidentally sent a Zelle payment to your email for $2,400 this evening. Please advise. You can reach me at (xxx) xxx-xxxx and my name is Nicholas xxxxxxxx. Then another text to email message from the same number saying the same thing. Now there is no way in H#$$ I'm going to send 2400 of my own money anywhere. I have searched him and the email address he is using does directly link up to a facebook account, with his name and his phone number also is directly linked to his name in a couple google links. So at least if you google him, he seems to check out. However this just feels too scammish. Has anyone actually sent back the money and got scammed? My plan is to call the bank when they open and let them handle it. There is no way I'm messing with this on my own. Update #1: My bank told me that I should pay him back using the email that sent it to me. I told them that there was no chance that I was going to send any money to anyone. After this gets figured out I'm going to be removing zelle from my account. Guess I'll have to wait to call Zelle when they open Update #2: Called Zelle, they said they dont have a fraud dept. but would forward the info to their "investigations dept" - at this point I may just move all my funds (funny enough, through zelle) and leave the 2400 in the account in question. This is the exact reason I have two major bank accounts at different banks. Update #3:Wrote back "Nick" politely explain that Zelle has this under investigation and that while I won't be sending money anywhere without written/signed/notarized communication from Zelle or my back, that I also will not be moving it from the account as well and that it will be available to be sent back as soon as either my bank or zelle clears it up. Now at the same time I attempted to move 100.00 using zelle to another bank and I got the message "We're having technical issues. Please try again and if the problem persists call us on 1-800-374-9700 and we'll try to help you." So that's interesting. Seems I'm on a zelle blacklist now. Which is good - right? Update #4:This is where I think it's just too bad that we live in the society we live in because there is no possible way to figure out if it's true or not. He claims to have talked to his bank, I have started the process with my bank (which there IS a process to get funds back using Zelle, this is a KEY point here, because this is how the scam would work). Now here's where the scam is either fully turning into a scam, or it's too bad that someone made a mistake. His last email to me said that they will be cancelling the transfer "BUT IT TAKES 10 TO 15 DAYS AND I VERY MUCH NEED THIS MONEY BEFORE 10 DAYS" in my mind it's either tragic that I can't trust someone like this or it's exactly the point at which some people fall for it. I may write back later explaining that even if I wanted to I cannot send anything back at this point because it is in the banks hands. [link] [comments]  |
| The "other" costs of buying a house Posted: 23 Oct 2019 10:22 PM PDT I posted awhile back asking for input on some costs of owning a house that I wouldn't have thought of during the home buying process. I've been a home owner for a little over a month now, and there are a lot of things that I either downplayed the cost of, or didn't realize until after I had moved in. The costs are listed in no particular order, but hopefully will help somebody in a similar position. All of these costs were after I had closed on the house. Major costs: New furniture - When I moved, it was apparent how old and abused the furniture that I owned had become. So far, I've bought a new mattress (~$750), and new bed set (~$600), and a new couch (~$650). The old furniture that I had was either put into other bedrooms, or sold/donated. Paint: Whether you're painting just one room, or multiple rooms, you'll need supplies. If you haven't painted before, you'll likely make mistakes the first time. If you have painted before, you'll still probably make mistakes. Do it right the first time and do any touch ups that you need to do immediately, or else you'll notice it daily and it's a lot easier to fix it while you're in the process than going back and re-taping. (Also, the cost of painter's tape adds up quick. Mostly because it's something you'll use once and immediately dispose of, so it almost feels like a waste of money. A 3-roll of 3" painters tape will run you $15-20 and you'll use a lot more tape than you think.) Tools and appliances: I had moved from an apartment and had no lawn care equipment. I spent around $250 on a used lawn mower and a new weed-whacker, and was fortunate to get a hedge trimmer for free from my parents. I had a lot of tools before I bought the house, but I bought a Shop-Vac and a palm sander (both under $50, individually) and have gotten tremendous use out of both. Moving truck/expenses: I rented a 15-ft U-Haul for about 6 hours and drove 30-40 miles to move the big stuff. It only cost me around $80, but I also bought a furniture dolly (~$25) and did all the labor myself. Movers can be expensive, but if you're moving long distance, then paid movers might be a better option. Minor Costs: Switching utilities, forwarding mail, costs for cleaning supplies for the previously renter apartment, and moving boxes/plastic containers for moving. In all, I've spent around $3,500 within a month after closing. I haven't paid for any outside labor, so if you're going to hire painters or movers, that number is going to be (potentially) a lot higher. There are things that I never would have thought I would need until I bought the house, so be prepared to have extra savings on hand. If you're in the market for a new house, I would highly suggest taking an inventory of your current furniture and seeing what needs to be replaced. Do as much of your own labor as you can. Painting gets old real quick, but you'll save a lot doing it yourself versus outsourcing it. Plus, if there are any screw-ups, you won't have to hold a grudge or write any bad reviews. Anything that affects the structure and functionality of the house (plumbing, electrical, etc.) that you don't know how to do and/or don't have the tools to do, be sure to get multiple quotes and hire a company that is licensed and insured. YouTube will become your best friend for small projects and will frustrate the hell out of you on big projects. If I could go back and do it over again, I definitely would. Being a homeowner has a ton of benefits over renting, despite the upfront and ongoing costs. No matter what the closing dollar amount is, factor in a few thousand dollars for miscellaneous expenses. Have fun in your new house, and be sure to keep a tight budget! [link] [comments]  |
| Alaska Airlines charged less than what Google Flights indicated Posted: 24 Oct 2019 06:00 AM PDT I booked roundtrip flights last night via Google Flights, and it was shown as being $420.60. However when I received the confirmation email from Alaska Airlines, it had the payment as $196.60, which is the same amount that my credit card got charged. My main question is, can Alaska Airlines end up changing the confirmation and the charge to reflect $420.60 instead of $196.60? Has anyone else had this experience before? Any advice/thoughts are appreciated. Here's a link to the picture of the confirmation https://imgur.com/RhVPFxS Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Accidentally overpaid my credit card Posted: 24 Oct 2019 05:26 AM PDT Hello, I accidentally paid my credit card twice. I paid the balance off, did not see any confirmation so I thought I didn't hit send, and now realize that I paid it twice and have more available credit than I have as a credit limit. Do I contact my bank or credit card company to get the money back? [link] [comments]  |
| Disabled and make too much $$$ for help Posted: 24 Oct 2019 07:18 AM PDT Been disabled all my life. I need help with daily tasks like showering and dressing etc. Government programs helped pay for personal care attendants (PCAs) that helped me with my physical needs. I went to college for mechanical engineering. Then I got a job right out of college. Pays ~$60k a year. Almost instantly, I was booted off the government programs that helped me pay for PCAs. Now I pay $1200 a month out of pocket just so I can be at work. After bills, taxes, necessities, and PCA costs, I have only a couple hundred dollars a month to spend on myself/save. Parent's insurance and job's insurance won't cover PCA costs. Does anyone have any ideas or know of any programs that can help cover costs? Please don't pity me. I feel very fortunate to be in this situation, as I know a lot of others with disabilities struggle with even finding a job. Thank you. [link] [comments]  |
| See article: “Young People” Need to Save 40% to Retire at 65?!? Posted: 24 Oct 2019 09:02 AM PDT From the article: "Millennials should aim to set aside nearly half of their income for the future, according to Olivia S. Mitchell, professor of insurance/risk management and business economics & public policy, and executive director of Wharton's Pension Research Council at the University of Pennsylvania. If you want to live off even half of your final salary in retirement, you need to save 40% of your income over the next 30 years, she says." "The second major assumption is that investment returns over the next few decades aren't going to match the roughly 10% historical returns Americans have enjoyed previously. "Most people are not told by financial advisors that their future returns will likely be much lower than in the past, and their future taxes will likely be much higher," Mitchell tells CNBC Make It." "Other experts agree. The economists at investing giant Vanguard predict that, over the next 10 years, annual U.S. stock market returns will likely average 3% to 5%. When you factor in inflation — which, luckily, Vanguard predicts will be below 2% — the real rate of return is expected to be under 3%. Morningstar Investment Management predicts an even more meager return: 1.8% over the next 10 years for U.S. stocks, before adjusting for inflation. Meanwhile, perhaps the most pessimistic outlook comes from Boston-based asset management firm GMO, which expects real returns of -3.6% for U.S. large cap stocks and -1% for small cap." What are your thoughts on this? I'm 23 and currently saving about 40% of my pre-tax income. It seems weird she is pitching deferred annuities as a solution... [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 24 Oct 2019 07:32 AM PDT I'm 27 (single) and work in the Bay Area on a 130k salary. For the last 4 years I've been investing in ETFs (working at a company without 401k match), maxing out my Roth IRA. Since starting my new job in the last year, I've been saving 4k a month in a high-yield savings account due to wanting to buy a house as an investment. I also started investing in my HSA. But I have a bit of FOMO about not maxing out my 401k. I contribute $240 every month to get the max employer match. My total savings sits at around 150k now, with 100k of that in ETFs, 20k in savings, 25k in Roth IRA, 5k in 401k, 5k in an HSA. Should I max out my 401k before putting this money in a savings account? [link] [comments]  |
| How do I prioritize retirement and buying a house? Posted: 24 Oct 2019 08:14 AM PDT 27M, 80k salary in LCOL area, no debt. Average monthly expenses are about 1.5k. I'm close to 10k emergency loot, and company matches 100% of my contributions up to 5% of my salary which i am taking full advantage of. Once i hit my emergency goal, in general the advice is to dump all the extra income into retirement accounts, priority being (with the above informarion) 5% of paycheck into 401k > as much as I can into roth IRA > rest into 401k. I want a house AND have a generous retirement portfolio though. I'm thinking the house will be around 300k. My credit score is pretty ridiculous, 813. 20% down payment would be 60k. How would i save towards that? I'm going to be working to increase my salary year after year and the actual price of the house will be a moving goal post depending on performance, but 300k is pretty close to the max I'd be willing to pay for a house [link] [comments]  |
| I am being charged by a doctor for a service he didn’t do. What recourse do I have? Posted: 23 Oct 2019 06:27 PM PDT I have seen other posts regarding medical bill advice on this sub Reddit, but if this is not the appropriate place for this question please let me know. I saw an ear nose and throat doctor in May 2019, and I received a bill just a few weeks ago. I knew I had not met my deductible yet so I was willing and ready to pay out of pocket for that visit. The bill has two items on it: $169 for the consultation and $55 for a procedure to remove impacted earwax. The issue? The doctor never removed any impact earwax. I remember it just like it was yesterday, he examined both of my ears and told me in fact that I did not have excess earwax. I called the billing department and they advised me that any changes to a bill have to come from the doctors office itself. So I call the doctors office. I have left multiple messages with them and they always tell me that they will speak with the doctor and then nobody ever calls me back. Everyone I speak to there is very rude even though I tried very hard to stay polite and friendly. But every time I speak with somebody they tell me that the notes say I had the procedure done and that the charge stands. And then they tell me that to have it removed they would have to speak with the doctor. But the conversation with the doctor seems to never happen. Today I involved my insurance company, and they told me that they will call the doctors office for me and try to fix this. But I have a little hope seeing as how I got nowhere despite several phone calls and emails. It just seems like I cannot get through to anybody in that office to understand, and they either don't get the message to the doctor or they do and the doctor just does not feel like calling me back. I feel like if I could speak with the doctor directly I could plead my case. But since the doctor sees so many patients, I can't imagine he would remember me from five months ago, and if his notes say that I had the procedure done, won't he just rely on his notes? It's truly my word against his at this point. I cannot believe that a doctor would write down that he did a procedure that he did not do. What can I do about this if my insurance company doesn't get anywhere? My insurance told me I should pay the amount I am not disputing as a show of good faith and indicate in writing that I am disputing the remainder. Do you all agree that that is a good idea? I am also concerned about accruing late fees and possibly being sent to collections over this. It is only $55, but I simply cannot in good conscience pay one single dollar for a procedure that I did not have done. Thanks in advance for any advice! [link] [comments]  |
| Thoughts on maxing out Roth IRA before 401k? Posted: 24 Oct 2019 07:08 AM PDT Hi all. 22m, first job, in HCOL area (DMV) making 78k. I have no debt and 25k in an emergency fund (I know it is too much). My monthly expenses fluctuate depending on if I travel for work, but a conservative estimate would be ~ 1.7k. I am contributing 6% to my 401k to get the company match and then plan on maxing out my Roth IRA and potentially contributing more to my 401k. My reasoning for this is a desire to have a high amount of liquid capital readily available for personal investment projects. Advice is appreciated. Thanks. [link] [comments]  |
| IRS tax penalty for withdrawing from Roth IRA? Posted: 24 Oct 2019 09:15 AM PDT Hi all. How bad of an idea is it to withdraw money early from a Roth IRA? I was fortune enough to get some money as a graduation gift ~7 years ago to put into my retirement fund and haven't touched it since, but I've fallen into some debt from medical bills. :/ My savings covered some of it, but I've been struggling a lot financially since then. I was thinking of taking out a small amount just so I'm able to get my head above water, but I can't decide whether or not this is an awful idea. It appears I wouldn't be penalized (I've had the account for over five years and the amount withdrawn wouldn't exceed my initial contribution), but I'm a little stressed out about the possibility I'm mistaken. A relative took money out of her 401k last year and somehow ended up owing the IRS about 6k, which is terrifying to think about. I called Vanguard and they said that while they wouldn't tax me, I'd need to fill out form 8606 when I do my taxes this year. It looks like I'd need to pay a 10% tax on whatever I take out, but not anything more than that. Is there something I'm missing? It seems almost a bit too convenient/easy. Obviously I wouldn't make this a regular habit, though—hopefully I would never need to withdraw again. [link] [comments]  |
| So I'm trying to set up a bank account, but everyone I ask for help is clueless on how to do it. Posted: 24 Oct 2019 09:06 AM PDT My parents aren't from the US and don't speak english, same with most of my family members, and the ones that do speak it as clueless about it as well. I don't have many friends, but I asked the ones that I do have, they all said they forgot. How do I go about this? I'm over 18, live in NY, and Citibank would be my choice. What do I need to do/bring? Do I have to plan it in advance with the bank or something? Like I said, I'm clueless. [link] [comments]  |
| Graduating in 2 months from college, what do I do next? Posted: 24 Oct 2019 08:44 AM PDT So, I'm currently studying business here in Newfoundland, Canada, and I will be graduating in December. I'm not from here and quite frankly I hate this island and I'd like to create a future somewhere else. The job market here is very bad and the island loses population each year due to that reason, so the chances of me getting a job here look very slim. However, the places I wanna move to, Ottawa, Toronto or Vancouver, have a very high cost of living compared to where I live now (e.g. rent is twice more expensive at least). My family is willing to pay for my expenses for a couple of months until I find a job, but I also don't wanna put too much pressure on them as they paid for my university fees, etc. almost entirely. I'm very worried that I won't be able to get a job, and I only have 3 years to secure a job as I'm not a Canadian citizen. What do you guys recommend I do to get a head start? [link] [comments]  |
| Changing card verification code to prevent purchase? Posted: 24 Oct 2019 08:41 AM PDT I am completely locked out of my amazon account and customer service won't help me. I have a preorder I need to cancel and they refuse to do anything. Can I just call the credit card company and have them change the verification numbers to prevent the purchase or would it still go through? One issue is I still have to do some returns so I'm not sure I would want a whole new number. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 24 Oct 2019 08:14 AM PDT Thanks all, long time lurker. I'm changing employment to be with my partner (part time hourly to full time hourly). Already moved in and all. I'm wondering if it's best to roll over a 503b to a 401k or IRA or if it's best to withdrawal and take the penalty. Original employer: YMCA with 8% match over 8 years Fund amount 12k New employer matches 5% Age: 32 [link] [comments]  |
| No Expenses - What Should I Spend?? Posted: 24 Oct 2019 08:05 AM PDT Hi y'all! So I'm in a fortunate and moderately unique situation: I'm a recent college graduate with a job the pays $65k a year before taxes. I live with my parents and don't really have any expenses yet - and they said I can live with them until I pay off my car. I have student loans (I put about $1500 a month towards those) but the rest of my money goes into my savings or towards little things like a new lipstick or something. I've read everything I could find in this subreddit and on websites like NerdWallet, but I can't find advice for people in my situation. My credit score is between 684-731 depending on where I look. I know there are different percentages of monthly income thrown around, but I assume those are for people with a lot more expenses than me. I'm trying to pay the car off fairly quickly (2020 Kia Soul EX in Neptune Blue, likely for ~$23k out the door. I know we typically are against new car buying, but I can explain my reasoning if anyone wants it!). What monthly payment should I want? Like, I know I'm looking at the full price of the car, not just monthly payments, but what's a reasonable amount for me to spend? How much should I put down? All this under the assumption that I should spend a different amount than the average person due to my situation. [link] [comments]  |
| What to do with current savings Posted: 24 Oct 2019 07:55 AM PDT Hey Everyone. I'm 23. Not many expenses as I live and commute from home. I have about $35,000 in savings currently and my living situation allows me to save quite a bit per month. What is the best way to use my savings to make me more money? If possible, I'd like the money to be as liquid as possible in case I want to take some out to buy a house or something. I am already investing 10% into my 401k plan at my office. [link] [comments]  |
| What's the best way to refinance/lower payment on a mortgage of $52,000 with interest of 6.875%? Posted: 24 Oct 2019 09:30 AM PDT |
| Tips to meet minimum debit card transactions for a higher APY? Posted: 24 Oct 2019 09:25 AM PDT My credit union offers a 3% yield (up to $10,000) on a checking account, but it requires using a debit card 30 times in a month. For the amount we spend, this isn't nearly worth it compared to taking the cash back rewards on transactions on a credit card. But I was wondering if there are any simple ways to game this type of agreement, through very small recurring payments paid from the debit card, that could then be recouped or applied to known ongoing expenses? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 24 Oct 2019 09:25 AM PDT So my father recently passed away, and he left us with a great inheritance fund. My question is about the best ways to invest the money moving forward. I currently have it sitting in a HYSA at Ally which will allow the funds to yield about $600 a month. My current debts are as follows 1) Student Loan: $20,000 @3.75% (paying about $500 a month now) 2) House: $210,000 @ 3.5% I am currently invested to the max for my 401(k), but can definitely be maxing out my Roth IRA if I wanted. For those who are math savvy you could definitely figure out how much the inheritance was based off of the interest. Anyway, I was considering a few options below and just wanted to gather some feedback. Near future (1-2 years) 1) Pay off the student loan and house now and not worry about them anymore 2) Keep paying off the mortgage and student loan as I am now, and use the interest from the savings to invest into my Roth IRA and if any is left over invest in a regular brokerage account as I expect the yield to be higher than 3.75%. 3) Add the interest from the HYSA I am making to the above payments so I can pay them off even faster. Longer term 1) Dollar cost averaging approach so slowly adding money to a few recommended stock indexes so that eventually most of the original $300,000 is in the stock market in some form. 2) Keeping the original inheritance and only investing the interest yielded from it into the stock market, while saving the rest for buying rental properties when the next recession pops up. Note, I currently have experience as a landlord, so I understand the risk and work involved with this piece. It is a tough time with my father's passing, so I wrote down my thoughts here, so let me know if it is unclear or if more clarifications are needed to help. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 24 Oct 2019 09:23 AM PDT Lost my job a while back and recently moved to another state. I don't know how long I will be here and don't want to rent out my old house. When I sell the house I will get over 50k once the loan is cleared and I pay off my 0% credit card I have been living off since losing my job. I know it's hard to time the market but with all the articles about a recession coming in the next year or so what are my best options for the 50k? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 24 Oct 2019 09:19 AM PDT A few years ago I hit a rough patch and got depressed and quit my miserable job and freelanced, while I made enough to pay rent some things slipped through the cracks and now I have two bad marks on my credit totaling a little less than $1000. It has brought my credit score down to the low mid 600's along with a credit card with high interest carrying a balance of ~ 1300 that I've been slowly trying to pay off. While I make about 50-70k a year now. Cost of living in my area is very high and took up a large portion of my income. However my boyfriend recently moved in with me and has reduced my bills by a pretty large portion freeing up some money. Now I need to know what to do and in what order. While all of my accounts (student loan, car, ect.) are in good standing and I'm currently paying $100 per month on the credit card. With its high interest it's not getting paid off quickly. Also, I've been getting offers in the mail from one of the collection companies to settle the bad debt account for 40% less than what they say I owe. Should I try to open a new credit card with abetter interest rate and transfer the debt to pay if off faster? Should I accept the offer to pay off the bad debt at a reduced cost? My boyfriend and I will also be moving soon to a bigger house so boosting my credit any amount will definitely help with lease applications. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 24 Oct 2019 09:15 AM PDT I just put some money into VTSAX, VBTLX, and VTIAX admiral accounts and saw I had the option to either reinvest the money made off them or put the profits aside in an account. What is the best move in that regard? Also, I just started with a company and was looking into their 401K; 3% matching and 19K limit. I haven't been able to ask if the company pays their 3% match at the end of the year or monthly but I think it's at the end of the year, I have enough to put the max in now before the year ends and I should be okay income-wise with paychecks rolling in. Is that advisable? I'm not sure if this is the company I'll stay with for good or not but if I don't the 401K rolls into a Roth with Fidelity which can be rolled over to a different accepting company. I'm apprehensive about putting into the 401K if I'm not sure I'll stay with the company despite being able to move the money around. Any insight would be appreciated. [link] [comments]  |
| You are subscribed to email updates from Personal Finance. To stop receiving these emails, you may unsubscribe now. | Email delivery powered by Google |
| Google, 1600 Amphitheatre Parkway, Mountain View, CA 94043, United States | |
No comments:
Post a Comment