Personal Finance Inherited house, can't pay mortgage, might lose house before it can sell. Need advice please. |
- Inherited house, can't pay mortgage, might lose house before it can sell. Need advice please.
- How $100 can save you $2,000+ when buying a used car
- How to shake the feeling that I could be doing more?
- Starting Over (34M / Midwest)
- My job is offering a simple IRA.
- High Yield Savings accounts: PNC Bank
- Someone hacked my Amazon account and used my credit card to purchase a video card and sent it to their address in Chicago [Credit]
- Should I close credit card accounts that I never use?
- Can I file a chargeback against a services business if they haven't been timely?
- Need help with student loans
- Question about paying off my mortgage early...
- We had a hospital bill that was in dispute on the final amount owed. We've been contacted by 5 separate collection companies about it. How do we sort out who to pay?
- Grandma took out life insurance policy on me when I was young. She's deceased eight years now. Who owns it?!
- Credit Card Fraud, weird pattern.
- Im young and good at my job but im nervous to ask for a raise
- How to handle multiple credit cards
- Vanguard account
- Enterprise employee entered my income incorrectly after buying a car, now Chase wants to back out of the loan
- What is the most aggressive 401k contribution for a middle class 25 year old?
- Short term investing after following prime directive
- Advice on looking for first home (Louisiana)
- I’m 25 years old and trying to decide between investing in a 2055 or 2060 target date retirement fund with Vanguard for my Roth IRA.
- Between my husband’s dental office and insurance company, we are going to have to pay a bill we shouldn’t. Help!
- Need help with the wording on this 401k with defined matching
| Inherited house, can't pay mortgage, might lose house before it can sell. Need advice please. Posted: 29 Nov 2018 08:22 AM PST My mother and I inherited my grandmother's house in California when she passed away this September. Zillow puts it at about 530k (we lived in a cookie-cutter neighborhood - the price is about right for what our neighbors have bought/sold for since it's the exact same houses). For the past 10 years, my grandmother was paying interest only on her mortgage (please never do this). In August, the interest-only offer expired and mortgage doubled. It sucked, but we made it work since my mother and I moved in with my grandmother years back to help her anyway. My grandmother passed and we can't make the 3k mortgage. We were late on October and when we paid it later, it only paid fees and no principal. So now we're up to 8k by next week or they said they'll foreclose and we get nothing. Thanks to the stupid loan my grandmother got, she'd still owe 300k on the house. The house has not been legally put in our name yet. My mother has my grandmother's trust and it hasn't been filed or anything yet. I don't know why. But the only thing in it was giving us the house 50/50. We want to sell the house, but it needs to be fixed first. We need a good 10k to fix the piping (fuck copper pipes) and landscaping. It's in an HOA, so there are strict standards. We've called the mortgage company and their advice amounted to 'you shouldn't have a house you can't afford'. They want us to be up to date on payments before we can look at any payment aid. Their answer is 'just pay it' as if that's not what we're trying to do. I cannot take out a mortgage. I had been a student until recently and am currently looking for a job, any job. My mother is self-employed and her credit is a shitpile since she ignores it. Should I try to get a personal loan of 10k to catch up on the mortgage? I know it's stupid, but I really don't know what else to do. My CCs are maxed out from helping my grandmother's medical expenses. I wasn't worried about this because I knew I was getting money from the house. My mother is trying to pawn the pink slip on her car, but they want her to have a job to show steady income. Her business makes enough to stay afloat, but waxes and wanes. My mother, brother, and I are still living in the house. We cannot afford to move without the house selling. I don't know where to go next. I feel ill all the time from the stress of this. Any advice is greatly appreciated. And feel free to ask anything; I'm happy to provide more details if needed. [link] [comments]  |
| How $100 can save you $2,000+ when buying a used car Posted: 29 Nov 2018 10:12 AM PST I've been on the hunt for a used car for about a month and I stumbled upon a car that I was very interested in. Low miles, clear title and a car I thought I would like to own. I went to check it out, searched high and low for anything wrong with the car cosmetically and found nothing. Took it for a test drive and loved it. Tested the transmission and I was all smooth sailing. Nothing leaking, no weird noises. I was very tempted to make an offer right then and there (asking for $2,000) but I held out and asked if I could get it inspected by my mechanic. The seller agreed that it was okay and the car was in my mechanic's shop a few days later for a pre-purchase inspection (PPI). He charges $100 for a PPI which I was fine with spending if it meant peace of mind when buying a used car. About 45 minutes into the inspection, my mechanic came into the office and said he was going to cut it short and only charge me $50 because he had already found enough wrong with the car mechanically to suggest against me purchasing the car. He said the cost of the repairs alone would've been about the same price of what I would've paid for the car. Had I bought the car, I would've paid around $2,000 and then paid around $1,400 to $2,000 shortly down the road for a total of about $3,400-4,000. In the end though, I only paid $50 and learned a valuable lesson when buying used cars. Long story short, pay a little extra money for a pre-purchase inspection when buying a used car. [link] [comments]  |
| How to shake the feeling that I could be doing more? Posted: 29 Nov 2018 05:30 AM PST Constant account checks, the impulse to apply small, random payments on a regular basis, perpetually looking forward to the next paycheck; these are the things that get to me. I'm hardly an anxious person, so surely I'm not alone in this issue. How do you learn to trust the process? I have a large student loan balance. I have a small car loan. Paying these off has never been a math issue. That's easy; budgeting, payoff methods (avalanche vs snowball), and consistency aren't the issue here. Sometimes it can be difficult to simply accept that these things will take time. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Nov 2018 01:23 PM PST I have found myself in the position of starting over both in life and financially at age 34. Obviously, I need to catch up. Between a divorce and another legal matter, my savings and retirement have been nearly completely wiped out. These events have taken the better part of 3 years to resolve but are now finally nearing a close. With all of that behind me I know I need to get back on track. I'm well aware of the guidance as to what I should have saved at this age, and that I'm nowhere near it. That said, I've started a new job fairly recently that gave me a bump in salary and also provides a pension. I've never had a pension so this is brand new to me, and I'm not really sure how they work. It was explained that my company contributes 5% of my salary into an account and I can go in and look at the cash value. I am single, with no kids, which I suppose is a positive when it comes to financial planning/saving at this point in my life. I have a few pointed questions, but I wanted to lay everything out to answer anticipated questions up front. I've re-focused / updated my use of YNAB for the past 4-5 months and have automated all of my savings with the exception of what I describe below in asking for advice. Here is my financial picture:Accounts:
Compensation*:*
Debt
Monthly In-flow (Take-home)
Monthly Out-flow (Budget / Expenses)
Total Expenses - $4,269 Current Savings Plan
What Next? After my expenses / bills and 401k / HSA contributions, I am left with an average of $2,100 per month. Looking for thoughts on where this should go:
Questions
Again, I acknowledge that I am way behind where I should based on commonly accepted PF theory. Hopefully we can keep this constructive as I've beaten myself up a lot after winding up back at square one. If not, maybe some tough love is what I need. [link] [comments]  |
| My job is offering a simple IRA. Posted: 29 Nov 2018 04:54 PM PST For the first time my company is offering me a simple IRA. I do not know what this means for me anybody give me some ideas on this [link] [comments]  |
| High Yield Savings accounts: PNC Bank Posted: 29 Nov 2018 08:32 AM PST My search for a higher interest rate led my to PNC Bank online, which offered a 2.35% rate. Not bad I thought, so I jumped in with both feet. When I tried to initiate a second transfer of $ into the account I was blocked. Apparently I had reached my transfer limit for a rolling 30-day period. In addition, I was blocked from moving any $ out as well. When the 30-day period is over I am going to begin moving it all out of this bank. But that will take me four months to accomplish, since PNC's max transfer to external bank accounts is limited to a much smaller amount than their limit for deposits. I've had many online accounts in the past and find this very unusual. It's a good rate - but if you want easy access to your $ at this bank I advise you keep your balance low enough so that you can withdraw it in one transfer. -Good Luck - 11-29-2018 [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Nov 2018 01:40 PM PST I check my credit card accounts every morning and this morning I noticed a ~$285 charge from Amazon. A week ago I deleted all of my stored payment info so I thought this was extra strange since I couldn't have ordered anything even accidentally. I accessed my Amazon account and noticed there was a recently ordered video card sent to my name but to an address in Chicago (I live in Hawaii). There was also some RAM in the cart. I first called Amazon and reported it to their fraud department. They said the order was in the advanced shipping phase but they would do their best to suppress the order. The customer service rep also said he would forward the report to their special investigations team for further review and that I'd get an email from them. I called my credit card company right after and reported the fraudulent activity and they immediately credited my account and cancelled that card and are going to send me a replacement with a new number. I changed my passwords to my email, Amazon and my credit card company. I'm worried that they were able to access my Amazon account but I'm even more concerned that they were able to add my credit card information, indicating they had my card info and weren't just using a stored payment option. Are there any additional steps that I need to take to protect myself from future charges? [link] [comments]  |
| Should I close credit card accounts that I never use? Posted: 29 Nov 2018 10:08 AM PST In my early-mid twenties I buried myself in $7,000 of credit card debt across 3 separate accounts. Finally, in July 2016, I decided to get smarter about my finances. I got a better paying job and picked up a second job, and opened a new credit card account that was offering 0% interest on balance transfers for 18 months. I'm happy to report that after working my ass off, I paid off my last credit card bill in October, and have a $0 balance. I did open two more credit cards, though -- an American Express card to transfer the remaining balance to so I could continue not being charged interest after the 18 months was up, and a Kroger Mastercard for the coupons and discounts on gas. So at this point, these are all the cards I have open: Citicard - opened August 2008 - $7,400 limit CapitalOne card - opened June 2011 - $2,750 limit Amazon Rewards Chase card - opened June 2013 - $8,400 limit Discover card - opened July 2016 - $6,000 limit American Express card - opened February 2018 - $13,400 limit Kroger Rewards Mastercard - opened November 2018 - $9,400 limit Since I have a history of burying myself in debt, I am now extremely anal about paying them off every month, if I use them at all. I don't think I am the kind of person who can buy everything with credit cards every month and pay them off in full, it's too easy for me to lose track and bury myself in debt. The only cards I really use are my Discover card, because I get 1.5% cash back, and my Kroger card. The rest of them go mostly unused at this point and I use my debit card for most purchases. Just for slightly more background in case it helps: I am 31 years old, and I make $37,500/year. That's just enough for me to get by paycheck to paycheck and put away $200 in savings every month. I only have $1,000 in savings so far, but I'm working on getting it up to $5,000 to act as an emergency fund. I also have about $20,000 in retirement that I contribute to every paycheck, and $6,000 left of student loans I'm diligently paying off (it was $21k when I graduated in 2009.) My credit score is I think considered "good," it's somewhere between 780 and 800 depending on the credit bureau. Having 6 credit cards feels a little ridiculous. Does it hurt me at all to have so many credit cards open that aren't being used? I'm considering closing the CapitalOne card, because the limit is so low, but I know that means my average age of credit is going to decrease. tl;dr: I have 6 credit cards open, four of which I never use at all. Should I close one or two of them or just let them sit unused? [link] [comments]  |
| Can I file a chargeback against a services business if they haven't been timely? Posted: 29 Nov 2018 05:45 PM PST I'm working with a company that says their normal turnaround time is 2-3 days. It's been 9 days and I have not received an update from them after calling and emailing. What is the best way to initiate a refund in this case -- can I do a chargeback on my CC? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Nov 2018 06:48 PM PST So I'm the first in my family to goto college and need help on finding the best loans. How do I apply? How long is the wait process? If anyone from SF has gotten a student loan could you give me some feedback? Anything helps truly, since my family doesn't know how to do this and I don't, any advice would be greatly appreciated! Cheers! [link] [comments]  |
| Question about paying off my mortgage early... Posted: 29 Nov 2018 09:00 AM PST I currently owe 52k on my mortgage, 3.1% fixed, with 10 years of payments left. I am looking at paying an extra $523 per month towards principal so that the last payment is the month I retire (5 years from now). Is there a better way to go about this? Would there be any advantage to refinancing this loan? ...or other options? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Nov 2018 03:19 PM PST Pretty much all in the title. We're more than happy to pay the bill, it was just being sorted out what the final amount owed was supposed to be. We've been contacted by several agencies all about the same bill. We want to just pay it and stop the calls but how can we ensure that it doesn't hit our credit if we don't pay all of the agencies? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Nov 2018 06:02 PM PST So, I received a letter from MetLife today. It was addressed to my deceased grandma with C/O [insert my maiden name]. It simply stated they received a "return to sender" from the USPS, so they web-sleuthed and found my current address. They addressed the original mail to my deceased grandmother's old address. The letter is non-nonchalant and just covers some random (to me) changes to stuff I don't comprehend (like credit card companies do occasionally). Here's the thing... I remember before she passed (8 years ago) she told me she had a policy in my name. Then she passed away. I forgot about it. Now I receive this random letter. I don't live in the same state as I/grandma did, so I am impressed with MetLife's attempt to find me. Pretty cool. Obviously, I will call tomorrow during business hours, but impatient, curious me wants to get a leg up on what to expect. Am I going to randomly become a millionaire? Am I going to have a new debt I wasn't aware existed? Do my kids get to see some large inheritance if I keep the policy and later kick the bucket? For context, I am 32. Policy was likely taken out around 3 years of age (mom thinks). Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Credit Card Fraud, weird pattern. Posted: 29 Nov 2018 05:57 PM PST I have an MC CC from the same bank for years with no issues. Recently, I had a small (~ $40) charge on my CC from a place that I've purchased from before, a big reputable company too, but probably hadn't bought anything from them for over a year. My CC company flagged it and asked if I recognized it. I didn't. So they cancelled that card and issued a new one. A month later, with my new card, I had a charge from a place that I had made a purchase from before, again a different large reputable company, this time for a digital subscription purchase. Then for the real kicker, a $2400+ charge from Amazon Japan. I live in USA, but I have also occasionally bought from Amazon Japan. All purchases were from locations I've bought from before. It seems odd that it would be the same places I shop at. Somehow it seems they know where I've shopped, and none from places I have never been to. Could this be something bigger to be worried about? Is there a way someone can find out where you've shopped before? Perhaps they were trying to not trigger an alert? [link] [comments]  |
| Im young and good at my job but im nervous to ask for a raise Posted: 29 Nov 2018 02:50 PM PST I've never asked for a raise before so how does this work? Do I just sit down with my boss and tell him that I want a raise? Some information on why I feel I deserve one- Between my direct co-worker and I, I do about 60/70% of the workload when it should be 50. This is due to him being older, slower, and in my opinion inefficient. He also gets paid more than me because he's been here for 3 years whereas I have been here 6 months. Other than that, I just want more money. And I don't mind leaving jobs to make that happen. I am not attached to this job at all. I did the math and what I want is a 19% raise. Is this too much to ask for? (I don't get paid a lot so 19% of how much I'm getting isn't that much.) I kind of need to be paid as much or more than my coworker otherwise I just have no respect for myself and I don't want to work here if I'm being paid less than someone that does less than me. I'm okay with not getting the raise and leaving because of it. HOWEVER I just want advice on how to ask for it. Clearly don't tell him all of this, right? What DO I tell him? Or any other comments thoughts you guys have. Thank you! [link] [comments]  |
| How to handle multiple credit cards Posted: 29 Nov 2018 05:33 PM PST It is my understanding that opening up multiple credit cards can help your credit score. Any advice from people out there on how to juggle multiple credit cards? I find having one to be easy to take advantage of as is [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Nov 2018 05:30 PM PST Any reviews of Vanguard Index Funds? Browsing Vanguard and the user experience seems more than lacking but that's obviously not what matters. I'd be interested to hear some of your experiences from Vanguard [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Nov 2018 09:50 AM PST I just bought a 2017 Nissan Sentra from Enterprise. I agreed to a 6.99%, 36-month loan with Chase bank. I've been getting a few calls this week from Enterprise, asking about my income. I work about 40hrs a week, $8.25/hr plus tips. This morning, I checked my email and I had a credit pull from Santander (did not authorize this, plus the car was purchased two weeks ago) Now, I got a call from the sales manager that helped me finance it all, and he said he entered my income incorrectly on the application. Now, Chase doesn't want to finance it. The manager admitted it was his mistake, and now we're going to have to find another lender. Should I call Chase, ask them to rethink this, because the application mistake was not my fault? Maybe have the sales manager on the phone as well? Or, should I just see what my other options are as far as lenders? This is not my mistake. I'm not too happy. Thank you in advance. [link] [comments]  |
| What is the most aggressive 401k contribution for a middle class 25 year old? Posted: 29 Nov 2018 07:19 PM PST |
| Short term investing after following prime directive Posted: 29 Nov 2018 07:18 PM PST Looking for some advice. I'm 27. Here's my financial situation:
I'm mostly wondering what I can do with the 20k cash I have sitting around, other than obviously keeping part of it as an emergency fund. Short term goals are to buy another house/apartment within the next 5 years. Because of that, I don't feel comfortable tying up the money in investments in case the market tanks. I'm also wary of the market tanking anyway, and wanting to have capital to buy the dip. I looked into CDs with my bank (Schwab) and I can get 2-3 year CDs at 3%ish. Are there any other relatively safe short-term investment vehicles? Thanks in advance. [link] [comments]  |
| Advice on looking for first home (Louisiana) Posted: 29 Nov 2018 04:59 PM PST I recently got a new job in the oilfield and am paying off some bills and getting my savings in order. I plan on saving up from January 2019 to january 2020. At the end of the year, I am looking at having $6500 in my savings exclusively for a down payment on a home, and as of now, my credit is pretty good. However, I have no idea on what I should do when looking for a home. I currently love in a very old lease to own mobile home, on land that I have no hope of buying off of my landlord, so building on my current land is out of the question. Are there any tips for a first time (hopeful) buyer? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Nov 2018 12:21 PM PST Hi everyone. As the title say, I'm 25 years old and have decided to open a Roth IRA with Vanguard and invest 100% in a target date retirement fund. I am currently deciding between a 2055 Fund (retirement age: 62) and a 2060 Fund (retirement age: 67). I would much rather retire by 62, but that's so far out from now that I just can't predict what will change. Are there any logical reasons why I should choose the 2060 Fund instead? Let me give some background on my financial situation. I was making $42k annually until this month when I got a raise to $56k. My company contributes the equivalent of 10% of my salary into a Transamerica 401(k) account with each paycheck, regardless of what I personally contribute (i.e. I would receive this contribution even if I personally invested nothing). However, I have been making a personal contribution of 6% since I started my job 2 years ago. All of this had been going into an American Funds 2055 target date fund, but I just recently redistributed the contributions to other more aggressive and cheaper Transamerica funds on the advice of a trusted friend and a professional financial advisor. I decided that going forward I will stop personally contributing to my 401(k) and will instead put this money in a Roth IRA. I have also cashed out some ETF investments with Charles Schwab and will put that money into the new Roth IRA immediately in order to reach the $5.5k annual limit by the end of this year. Once I leave my job in the next couple years, I also plan on rolling my 401(k) into the Vanguard IRA. Sorry if that was way too much information! Thanks for any help you all can provide. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Nov 2018 10:21 AM PST I don't know if this is the correct place to post this, and please direct me in the correct direction if this is not. Sorry, it is long. My husband had his wisdom teeth removed August of 2016. He had insurance through the Marketplace (USA), and he chose the plan that was through CareSource Silver Enhanced plan that included dental. He paid his portion of the procedure, and the dental office was to send the rest to the insurance company. My husband kept getting statements from the dental office stating that the insurance's portion of the bill was still pending, but that we did not owe anything. This went on until the summer of this year when finally the dental office sent a statement with a handwritten note telling us to contact his insurance provider or we would have to pay the cost of the procedure. We called Caresource. They stated that they processed it under the wrong plan (a plan that did not have dental) by mistake but they can clearly see that my husband had the enhanced plan that included dental. They said that the claim should be resolve in 30-45 days. My husband called CareSource again 30 days later, and a different person told him to have the dental office to resubmit the claim because it was not submitted correctly the very first time. They stated that the dental office submitted it under medical and not dental. All this time, my husband is in contact with the person who handles claims at the dental office. The dental office emails my husband the first claim they submitted and it clearly is a dental claim. The dental office resubmits the claim again, but the claim is closed by CareSource because the length of time it has been open has exceed the limit, and they are able to just close the claim with no resolution. My husband calls Caresource AGAIN, and someone else tells him that they can clearly see it is their mistake. They tried to process it under the wrong plan. She assured my husband it would be taken care of and to call back the following week to check up on it. Well this brings us to yesterday. My husband calls CareSource to check to make sure the claim was reopened and in the process of being processed. He gets someone different again, and this lady is very adamant that it was the dental offices error from the beginning. That on the claim, the wrong location of service was put, and they asked the dental office to resubmit. The dental office did not resubmit it in the time that it should have been. This lady went through all her notes she had from calls with the dental office, and it did not match the dental's notes at all. If you are feeling very confused by this point, welcome to our world. It is a classic "he said, she said," where I have a feeling the end result is going to be us having to pay this $1000 bill that is someone else's mistake (whether it be the insurance company or the dental office). My husband was supposed to have a conference call with CareSource and the dental office today, but no one from CareSource called him. Is there anything else we can do differently to get this resolved? I really do not want us to have to pay a bill that we shouldn't have to because of someone else's mistake. I feel that if it was the dental office's mistake to begin with that they should foot the bill, and if it was CareSource's mistake then they need to reopen it and process it. Obviously I am not an expert in insurance's policies regarding claims. So I am just looking for a little advice here on where to go from here. TL;DR: my husbands dental office and insurance company keeps giving us the go around regarding a claim that may result in us having to pay a bill for someone's else mistake. [link] [comments]  |
| Need help with the wording on this 401k with defined matching Posted: 29 Nov 2018 10:52 AM PST Hello all, sorry if this is the wrong place, I usually see good, non judgmental advice out of this sub, so I wanted to see if anyone could help me with this. I recently got a job interview offer and am looking at the benefits package, inside is a section called 401k retirement plan with defined matching The details say "Our current 401k match is 50% of the first 4% contributed employees are 20% vested after the first year, 40% 2 yrs., 60% 3yrs, 80% 4yrs and Fully Vested 100% at 5 yrs." I typed it exactly the way it was written, please help? [link] [comments]  |
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